Restricted Access
Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
- Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
- Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
- Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
- No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
- Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
- Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.
Rockfax Description
An historically significant classic of great difficulty. The climbing is extremely sustained and technical with only the odd poor shake-out. Originally the route finished at the halfway ledge, subsequent ascents have ended at the rest out on the right above the redpoint crux. There is a link-up into Predator at 8b+ named Cry Baby that takes the undercuts left to the finish of Predator. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The free ascent of the old aid route "Controversey"
FA. Mark Leach 1988. A superb ascent after many day's of effort to produce a route as hard as any in the World at the time..
Ticklists
A lifetimes worth of inspiration , UK 8a and up , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Power of Climbing , Sport life
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| maxrose | 1 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: House martins are nesting in the knee bar at the top. There are two permadraws which allow an early-lower off before arriving at the nest (in the corner before the final boulder) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: House martins are nesting in the knee bar at the top. There are two permadraws which allow an early-lower off before arriving at the nest (in the corner before the final boulder) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Malham Cove
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Freakshow
Grade: 8c ***
(Kilnsey)