290m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Taking a logical line, this route exemplifies traditional chimney climbing at its best. The route itself was quite a feat, opened solo by Piaz and it has now become a popular and somewhat polished climb.
Start on a small ledge below a short wall.
1) II, 25m. Climb the ledge easily for a few metres then follow a prominent ledge left for 20m to a good thread.
2) IV-, 30m. Step left then follow a sloping ramp back right to reach a short corner. Climb this then follow easier stepped ground left to a belay on spikes.
3) IV-, 25m. Climb a series of enjoyable flakes to a well-pegged stance at the base of the main corner system.
4) V, 25m. Climb the corner, which is well protected but sustained. Squeeze through the narrower section then exit left below a chockstone to a thread just left of the chimney-gully above.
5) IV-, 35m. Climb a slab on the left side of the gully to a small ledge with a niche, then move back right to a vegetated stance in the narrower part of the chimney gully.
6) IV-, 30m. Keep left, ascending for 10m before making a rising traverse left below an overhang. Climb above this then move easily back right to a stance in the upper chimney gully.
7) IV-, 35m. Climb the chimney for a few metres, exit left then climb direct to a ledge (possible stance). Continue direct up easy ground to a stance in a notch on the small ridge.
8) III, 130m. Continue direct up loose scree in the direction of Rifugio Re Alberto.
9) I, 50m. Follow easier ground up the large upper spur to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow corner / chimney system up the East Face of Punta Emma. Difficulties located in second and third pitches.

Giovanni Battista (Tita) Piaz 1900

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Big Routes, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JohnH1977 22 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?Sep, 2019 AltLd
with Uncle john
with Uncle john
stegtor 27 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Ian Bentley
with Ian Bentley
IanBLeeds 27 Jun, 2019 AltLd
with Stuart White
with Stuart White
Joshua.Brunning 4 Jun, 2019 Lead
Trent T 8 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Loved this climb, but nearly had an epic at the end when my partner and I couldn't locate the abseil rings. Ended up having to do a backtrack abseil of the entire climb from the summit. The Rockfax Dolomites book gave terrible directions in regards to the decent...
Loved this climb, but nearly had an epic at the end when my partner and I couldn't locate the abseil rings. Ended up having to do a backtrack abseil of the entire climb from the summit. The Rockfax Dolomites book gave terrible directions in regards to the decent...
JonnyDrama 14 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Ross Kane, Clint
with Ross Kane, Clint
ChrisBrooke 11 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
with John Inkpen
zach.stone 8 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 8 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
JGW ?Jul, 2008 AltLd Crux pitch (up a chimney / offwidth) felt hard! Also couldn't locate abseil ring in descent and initially abbed in wrong place - had to prussik back up as 60m ropes didn't reach the ground.
with Matt Tilley
Crux pitch (up a chimney / offwidth) felt hard! Also couldn't locate abseil ring in descent and initially abbed in wrong place - had to prussik back up as 60m ropes didn't reach the ground.
with Matt Tilley
jev 28 May, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Jonas
with Jonas
bobelvedere 21 Jun, 1980 AltLd
with Peter Laulund, Lene Vestergaard
with Peter Laulund, Lene Vestergaard
mikej 29 Jul, 1967 AltLd Graham Platford and Chris Bridge team just behind us.
with Geoff Williams
Graham Platford and Chris Bridge team just behind us.
with Geoff Williams
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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