500m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route which follows a series of chimneys and cracks. The rock is generally sound, the climbing varied, and the difficulties only moderate. Given the aspect, the route can sometimes be climbed early in the season but beware of seepage from residual snow on the summit.
Start at the right side of the lower (right-hand) of the two scree cones at the base of the south face. Follow a grassy ledge to the start of the route, below a yellow crack, which is often marked with tat.
1) IV, 40m. Climb a yellow crack which gives way to a right-trending ramp. Follow this, keeping close to its left side, then cut across just after a peg to a 3-peg and ring belay on a small grassy pulpit, below shattered rock and a chimney groove on the right.
2) IV, 40m. Step right off the pulpit then climb easy grey rock to a rightwards-slanting chimney. Move right onto vegetated rock to a 2-peg stance on another smaller pulpit.
3) II, 55m. Take the left-hand of two parallel ramps, just right of the belay, and follow this up easy but loose ground, keeping 3m away from its yellow left wall. Where the rock gets darker, move right over chossy terraces to a 2-peg stance on grey rock, below a wide corner.
4) IV-, 50m. Traverse right below grass tussocks, taking either of two possible lines; one higher with tat, one lower and directly horizontal. Then step down around the arete to another grassy area on the right and a 2-peg belay below a black corner.
5) IV, 50m. Continue up the corner to the right of the belay for 45m then, at the top, step left to a 2-peg stance (it is also possible to exit just before the top on easier ground).
6) IV, 40m. Traverse right for 8m then climb direct on slabby grey rock, which is compact and easy but unprotected, to a 2-peg belay on a shallow ledge with stepped rock on the right.
7) IV-, 30m. Move right for 15m up a rising ledge then continue direct up grey slabby rock towards the left-hand of two distinct chimneys above.
8) IV, 40m. Climb the chimney to its end, then step left to a good ledge and a peg, below black slabs and a flared chimney on the left.
9) V-, 45m. Continue up the corner-crack above on the left then follow this with bold, slabby and smeary corner climbing to a niche below a bulge and a crack on the left.
10) V, 45m. From the niche, climb the crack, which is quite steep and bulgy, for 15m. Where the main crack carries on direct, either follow this (bold and traditional), or traverse 3m left to a yellow wall. Climb this direct with exposed climbing. Move around an arete and step right to a belay.
11) IV-, 50m. Move right from the stance on a ledge for 5m, then climb direct for a few metres, then follow a ledge back left. From here, climb direct with numerous possible lines to reach the chossy ledges below the summit. Peg and thread belay just before the path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitches 9,10 and 11 provide the meat of route, superb sustained climbing up clean blank slabs, with a slight paucity of gear and an exposed move to finish. Take care to find the correct start.

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

Hidden 07/Oct/17 AltLd
ned_85 07/Oct/17 AltLd
with Alisdair Dickinson
Felicity Eperon 07/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with James Kent, Luke Bounds
ripper 26/Aug/17 AltLd

Route-finding made easier by the fact there was a team just in front, although the flip-side was that one of them had a bit of a panic seconding the crux chimney, so we had to wait, while watching the storm clouds building... one very close thunderclap and a few hailstones as we raced up the top pitch, but luckily nothing more. Five hours bottom to top. Great route, some really interesting climbing and the walk-off passes through some fantastic rock architecture.

with matt c
Hidden 15/Jul/17 AltLd
RocKalina ?/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 12/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Dan0Me 12/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, tricky route finding towards the top as rockfax guide pic is different to description. Quality chimney pitch in the upper half. Oh and it did hail on us but not for my pitch ;)

tobydunford 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Little bit of tricky route finding on the traverse pitch 4, went horizontal and ended up on a sheer arete with no grassy ledge in sight, a rising traverse from the belay worked better!

with Simon Thursz
Rob Morgan 18/Aug/16 AltLd

Got horribly lost after pitch 3. Then spent several hours hunting belays while trying to get back on route. Climbed a very strenuous but short crack which I think is to the left of the main route. Felt HVS or possibly harder... Finally got back on route for pitch 8 (which I initially thought was pitch 9). By then just glad to be back on route after a bit of a nightmare! The rest of the climbing was nice but a bit too knackered to appreciate it! All good experience...

with Win-yei
Win-yei 18/Aug/16 AltLd

Got a bit lost in the middle few pitches

with Rob
evhall 21/Jul/16 AltLd

Fantastic route - all pretty easy HS - a bit of VS perhaps on the penultimate pitch - fantastic fun

with Tim Bray
Stickle Tarn 20/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Really nice route at the grade. Some interesting pitches higher up with the highlight being a UIAA V-/V chimney (penultimate pitch). 1 hour + to walk off but it's a lovely path surrounded by coolness everywhere ! I took the odd pitches and a few more.

Mike W ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
duncana 01/Jul/15 AltLd

Tricky to find the start, although obvious with some tat once there. First pitches a bit loose and wandering, but some great lines higher up the route

with Pippa Archer
Jonathan Emett 11/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

12'30 car to car. 10 hours on the rock incl an extra hour because we started up the wrong crack (too far left) and ended up in chossy loose hell which ben thought was HVS 5a. After that, utterly amazing climbing throughout! The last pitch (chimney) is difficult with a pack on.

with ben
benscarter 11/Sep/12 AltLd
benscarter ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
tomhull 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

great intro to big routes!

with matt harris
Hidden 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/12 AltLd dnf
Clee 13/Sep/11 2nd
with Tom
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 09/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
decs 01/Aug/08 AltLd
with Sam
sgl 01/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with duncan
paul79 ?/Aug/08 -
WB 12/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 31/Aug/06 2nd
Darron ??/2004 -
with Al
jcw 03/Sep/03 -
with Andre Ike
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/03 AltLd

Part 2 of the muppet show - took the wrong line again, managed to get on the right line for the last 4 pitches, which were well worth it. Reached the summit just after sunset

with Paul
Hidden 22/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
brianrunner ?/Jul/01 AltLd

This is a good route, a bit more relaxed than some around here at the grade. Some nice slabs and corners.

with martina
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