500m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route which follows a series of chimneys and cracks. The rock is generally sound, the climbing varied, and the difficulties only moderate. Given the aspect, the route can sometimes be climbed early in the season but beware of seepage from residual snow on the summit.
Start at the right side of the lower (right-hand) of the two scree cones at the base of the south face. Follow a grassy ledge to the start of the route, below a yellow crack, which is often marked with tat.
1) IV, 40m. Climb a yellow crack which gives way to a right-trending ramp. Follow this, keeping close to its left side, then cut across just after a peg to a 3-peg and ring belay on a small grassy pulpit, below shattered rock and a chimney groove on the right.
2) IV, 40m. Step right off the pulpit then climb easy grey rock to a rightwards-slanting chimney. Move right onto vegetated rock to a 2-peg stance on another smaller pulpit.
3) II, 55m. Take the left-hand of two parallel ramps, just right of the belay, and follow this up easy but loose ground, keeping 3m away from its yellow left wall. Where the rock gets darker, move right over chossy terraces to a 2-peg stance on grey rock, below a wide corner.
4) IV-, 50m. Traverse right below grass tussocks, taking either of two possible lines; one higher with tat, one lower and directly horizontal. Then step down around the arete to another grassy area on the right and a 2-peg belay below a black corner.
5) IV, 50m. Continue up the corner to the right of the belay for 45m then, at the top, step left to a 2-peg stance (it is also possible to exit just before the top on easier ground).
6) IV, 40m. Traverse right for 8m then climb direct on slabby grey rock, which is compact and easy but unprotected, to a 2-peg belay on a shallow ledge with stepped rock on the right.
7) IV-, 30m. Move right for 15m up a rising ledge then continue direct up grey slabby rock towards the left-hand of two distinct chimneys above.
8) IV, 40m. Climb the chimney to its end, then step left to a good ledge and a peg, below black slabs and a flared chimney on the left.
9) V-, 45m. Continue up the corner-crack above on the left then follow this with bold, slabby and smeary corner climbing to a niche below a bulge and a crack on the left.
10) V, 45m. From the niche, climb the crack, which is quite steep and bulgy, for 15m. Where the main crack carries on direct, either follow this (bold and traditional), or traverse 3m left to a yellow wall. Climb this direct with exposed climbing. Move around an arete and step right to a belay.
11) IV-, 50m. Move right from the stance on a ledge for 5m, then climb direct for a few metres, then follow a ledge back left. From here, climb direct with numerous possible lines to reach the chossy ledges below the summit. Peg and thread belay just before the path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitches 9,10 and 11 provide the meat of route, superb sustained climbing up clean blank slabs, with a slight paucity of gear and an exposed move to finish. Take care to find the correct start.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Big Routes, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
steve-grigg 13 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome route, great day, took around 5 hours. Lead in blocks as it worked out quicker on the change over, I did pitches 1,2,5,6,9,10. The rockfax is slightly off on the crux pitch, which (although technically is a crack) is a chimney.
with MegWan
Awesome route, great day, took around 5 hours. Lead in blocks as it worked out quicker on the change over, I did pitches 1,2,5,6,9,10. The rockfax is slightly off on the crux pitch, which (although technically is a crack) is a chimney.
with MegWan
9fingerjon 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Wow! Maybe best route of the trip. Feels committing as the whole way up you know the crux pitches are waiting near the top!
Wow! Maybe best route of the trip. Feels committing as the whole way up you know the crux pitches are waiting near the top!
Hidden 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
daveclarke5 25 Jul, 2018 AltLd Very pleasant up to end of route. Found wrong path at end of route and traversed left too early. Ended up roping up again to climb up and off face again. Just keep going straight up when you finish!
with Stephen
Very pleasant up to end of route. Found wrong path at end of route and traversed left too early. Ended up roping up again to climb up and off face again. Just keep going straight up when you finish!
with Stephen
Hidden 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2018 Lead left hand exit. good adventurous route
with Alison Culshaw
left hand exit. good adventurous route
with Alison Culshaw
Goodstuff 11 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Wonderful climb that steadily increases in difficulty. Odd pitches. Caught in thunderstorm on the last pitch for 20 minutes! Route-finding in the central section takes a bit of working out. Highlights are the exposed V. Diff traverse on P4 and the absorbing VS cracks and chimneys on P8, 9 and 10. Coil your ropes and solo P3, as it's just a long grade 1 scramble.
Wonderful climb that steadily increases in difficulty. Odd pitches. Caught in thunderstorm on the last pitch for 20 minutes! Route-finding in the central section takes a bit of working out. Highlights are the exposed V. Diff traverse on P4 and the absorbing VS cracks and chimneys on P8, 9 and 10. Coil your ropes and solo P3, as it's just a long grade 1 scramble.
Oscar Popels 11 Jun, 2018 AltLd Great route. Especially the traverse. As I was leading P10 we heard a thunder storm roll in down the valley. I sprinted to the belay and just made it when it started hailing. There was lightning directly above us and the belay stance was a bit of a funnel for hail/stones so I have to unclip and run off to a cave on the right. Scary stuff! We topped out about 15 mins later in glorious sunshine.
Great route. Especially the traverse. As I was leading P10 we heard a thunder storm roll in down the valley. I sprinted to the belay and just made it when it started hailing. There was lightning directly above us and the belay stance was a bit of a funnel for hail/stones so I have to unclip and run off to a cave on the right. Scary stuff! We topped out about 15 mins later in glorious sunshine.
Hidden 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd
ned_85 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd
with Alisdair Dickinson
with Alisdair Dickinson
Hidden 7 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
ripper 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd Route-finding made easier by the fact there was a team just in front, although the flip-side was that one of them had a bit of a panic seconding the crux chimney, so we had to wait, while watching the storm clouds building... one very close thunderclap and a few hailstones as we raced up the top pitch, but luckily nothing more. Five hours bottom to top. Great route, some really interesting climbing and the walk-off passes through some fantastic rock architecture.
with matt c
Route-finding made easier by the fact there was a team just in front, although the flip-side was that one of them had a bit of a panic seconding the crux chimney, so we had to wait, while watching the storm clouds building... one very close thunderclap and a few hailstones as we raced up the top pitch, but luckily nothing more. Five hours bottom to top. Great route, some really interesting climbing and the walk-off passes through some fantastic rock architecture.
with matt c
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd
RocKalina ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 12 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Dan0Me
with Dan0Me
Dan0Me 12 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Brilliant route, tricky route finding towards the top as rockfax guide pic is different to description. Quality chimney pitch in the upper half. Oh and it did hail on us but not for my pitch ;)
Brilliant route, tricky route finding towards the top as rockfax guide pic is different to description. Quality chimney pitch in the upper half. Oh and it did hail on us but not for my pitch ;)
tobydunford 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Little bit of tricky route finding on the traverse pitch 4, went horizontal and ended up on a sheer arete with no grassy ledge in sight, a rising traverse from the belay worked better!
with Simon Thursz
Little bit of tricky route finding on the traverse pitch 4, went horizontal and ended up on a sheer arete with no grassy ledge in sight, a rising traverse from the belay worked better!
with Simon Thursz
Rob Morgan 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd Got horribly lost after pitch 3. Then spent several hours hunting belays while trying to get back on route. Climbed a very strenuous but short crack which I think is to the left of the main route. Felt HVS or possibly harder... Finally got back on route for pitch 8 (which I initially thought was pitch 9). By then just glad to be back on route after a bit of a nightmare! The rest of the climbing was nice but a bit too knackered to appreciate it! All good experience...
with Win-yei
Got horribly lost after pitch 3. Then spent several hours hunting belays while trying to get back on route. Climbed a very strenuous but short crack which I think is to the left of the main route. Felt HVS or possibly harder... Finally got back on route for pitch 8 (which I initially thought was pitch 9). By then just glad to be back on route after a bit of a nightmare! The rest of the climbing was nice but a bit too knackered to appreciate it! All good experience...
with Win-yei
Win-yei 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd Got a bit lost in the middle few pitches
Got a bit lost in the middle few pitches
evhall 21 Jul, 2016 AltLd Fantastic route - all pretty easy HS - a bit of VS perhaps on the penultimate pitch - fantastic fun
with Tim Bray
Fantastic route - all pretty easy HS - a bit of VS perhaps on the penultimate pitch - fantastic fun
with Tim Bray
Stickle Tarn 20 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Really nice route at the grade. Some interesting pitches higher up with the highlight being a UIAA V-/V chimney (penultimate pitch). 1 hour + to walk off but it's a lovely path surrounded by coolness everywhere ! I took the odd pitches and a few more.
Really nice route at the grade. Some interesting pitches higher up with the highlight being a UIAA V-/V chimney (penultimate pitch). 1 hour + to walk off but it's a lovely path surrounded by coolness everywhere ! I took the odd pitches and a few more.
Mike W ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
duncana 1 Jul, 2015 AltLd Tricky to find the start, although obvious with some tat once there. First pitches a bit loose and wandering, but some great lines higher up the route
with Pippa Archer
Tricky to find the start, although obvious with some tat once there. First pitches a bit loose and wandering, but some great lines higher up the route
with Pippa Archer
Jonathan Emett 11 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S 12'30 car to car. 10 hours on the rock incl an extra hour because we started up the wrong crack (too far left) and ended up in chossy loose hell which ben thought was HVS 5a. After that, utterly amazing climbing throughout! The last pitch (chimney) is difficult with a pack on.
12'30 car to car. 10 hours on the rock incl an extra hour because we started up the wrong crack (too far left) and ended up in chossy loose hell which ben thought was HVS 5a. After that, utterly amazing climbing throughout! The last pitch (chimney) is difficult with a pack on.
benscarter 11 Sep, 2012 AltLd
benscarter ?Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
tomhull 1 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S great intro to big routes!
with matt harris
great intro to big routes!
with matt harris
Hidden 1 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2012 AltLd dnf
Clee 13 Sep, 2011 2nd
with Tom
with Tom
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 27 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2009 -
Hidden 9 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
decs 1 Aug, 2008 AltLd
with sgl
with sgl
sgl 1 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with duncan
with duncan
paul79 ?Aug, 2008 -
kingjam ??, 2007 AltLd
WB 12 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
Hidden 31 Aug, 2006 2nd
Darron ??, 2004 -
with Al
with Al
jcw 3 Sep, 2003 -
with Andre Ike
with Andre Ike
Chris the Tall ?Sep, 2003 AltLd Part 2 of the muppet show - took the wrong line again, managed to get on the right line for the last 4 pitches, which were well worth it. Reached the summit just after sunset
with Paul
Part 2 of the muppet show - took the wrong line again, managed to get on the right line for the last 4 pitches, which were well worth it. Reached the summit just after sunset
with Paul
Hidden 22 Jun, 2003 AltLd O/S
brianrunner ?Jul, 2001 AltLd This is a good route, a bit more relaxed than some around here at the grade. Some nice slabs and corners.
with martina
This is a good route, a bit more relaxed than some around here at the grade. Some nice slabs and corners.
with martina
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Voting
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set