Rockfax Description
One of Yorkshire's most coveted sport climbs. Sustained climbing leads to a taxing finish. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Lewis 1984. The infamous run-out at the top has undergone several changes in its life. Currently it is a good bit less scary than it has been but it is still enough to get you thinking.

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s, World Graded List, Yorkshire Limestone Graded List.

John Kettle 09/Dec/17 Lead RP

Superb climbing. -4 degrees at the crag, amazing friction once I could feel my fingers.

realbobsmith 19/Aug/17 Lead RP
esther ?/Aug/17 Lead
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 06/Jun/17 Lead RP

Dogged up it and then led after 2 minutes rest. Pleased with how smoothly I climbed after how hard it felt at first. Taking some falls on my warm up really helps.

Haydn Jones 17/May/17 Lead β
Hidden 08/May/17 Lead RP
Kody-James 20/Apr/17 Lead RP
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 18/Mar/17 Lead dog

In two halves. Would have probably done it if I didn't have to stop half way up because I couldn't feel my fingers. Never had hot aches in my tips before! Could hardly get anything back at the rests but felt a lot smoother on it by the last go.

Hidden 07/Mar/17 Lead RP
Glyn 18/Feb/17 Lead RP

First rpt. Hard before I figured it out, then felt OK on the send

Hidden ??/2017 -
dan gibson 08/Oct/16 Lead RP
with Katerina petkova
robertmctague 01/Oct/16 Lead RP

Yes! Second go, psyched out my nut to finally get round to trying this, such a good route.

with Martin
ollyisaclimber 16/Jul/16 Lead RP

In a session! Thin at the bottom and a spicy last move. Great exposure at the top of Malham.

rikbattye 16/Jul/16 Lead β
Hidden 12/Jul/16 Lead RP
Elliot Walker 10/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Conor
Jonny Nick 26/Jun/16 Lead RP

So psyched to get this done. Best sport route to date I'm thinking.

nathanlee 16/Jun/16 Lead RP

Lowered off at the second bolt in the blazing sun last year. First redders today, 7c until you do it?

climbingpixie 22/May/16 Lead RP

Really chuffed to finally get this as my first 7b+. It took me several sessions to work out all the moves, let alone string them together. 2nd RP today after totally fluffing my first attempt by climbing like an idiot.

with Andy
penny.orr 14/May/16 Lead RP

Woo! 2nd redpoint! Fell off the last moves on the first attempt - thought I was too tired but managed to pull it out the bag!

Wood for Trees 02/May/16 Lead RP

Very happy to do get both these done today, felt like a big weight off me after a meltdown this time last year

with Ryan
JM 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S


with Anna Reiners
GPN 08/Apr/16 Lead RP

2nd Session. Ace.

Flavio 03/Apr/16 Lead RP

2nd go

samrad 03/Apr/16 Lead RP

climbed it 1st RP attempt after dogging up putting the clips in to warm up. I top roped this once about 5-6 years ago at the end of a session, didn't remember a thing about it though. Forgot what I was doing at the top on the RP. Fun route.

MichaelGallimore 03/Apr/16 Lead RP

Went nicely, 2nd go. Really enjoyed the move at the top.

with Sam R, Flavio
Ben Alan Wilson 30/Mar/16 Lead RP

Very good route, I was ready to lead it about 2 week ago, but It was too busy

with Awsomal
robertmichaellovell 20/Mar/16 Lead

2nd RP

with Patrick G
Luke Dawson 27/Feb/16 Lead RP

hard move at the second bolt

Eduardo Martinez ??/2016 Lead RP

Always regarded as too hard at 7b+

OERees 06/Oct/15 Lead RP
richgibson 04/Oct/15 Lead RP
with Tim Wise
penny.orr 27/May/15 Lead dog

Bottom section moves still feel hard but have worked out the rest of the moves.

Hidden 24/May/15 Lead RP
jonleighton 24/May/15 Lead RP
derico 24/May/15 Lead RP

Amazing route, forgot how good the routes are at malham!

with Chris Davis
Ian Broome 10/May/15 Lead RP

Great stuff. Taken so long to get around to getting on it,

Stephen Horne - Rockfax 04/May/15 2nd dnf
Rob Grant 04/May/15 Lead RP
Wood for Trees 04/May/15 Lead dog

a strange day

with Laura
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead dog
Duncan Campbell 04/May/15 Lead RP

Woohoo! 3rd RP today, my second session on the route. Went down thanks to some beta from guy making the middle section more efficient. Really didn't expect to do this as it felt so hard! My hardest sport route to date.

Matt Cooke 03/May/15 Lead RP
with Sam Taylor
khawk 02/May/15 Lead RP
Duncan Campbell 02/May/15 Lead dog

Hard. Being hungover didn't help but this is a big step up from any other 7b+ I've been on and is much harder than space race. Back tomorrow/Monday to try and send

nicolat ?/May/15 TR dnf
datoon 11/Apr/15 Lead RP
Tophe 25/Mar/15 Lead RP
with Ben D
samwillo 17/Mar/15 Lead

Finally went down, getting back to a) routes and b) Malham is hard!

JamesTurnbull97 07/Mar/15 Lead RP

First time climbing and first ever route at Malham, Really good route, great position and techy climbing. Psyched to sent 3rd go.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21/Feb/15 Lead

Tried it years ago, felt desperate. Today it still felt desperate, but seemed to go down a lot, lot quicker.

with Mina Leslie Wujastyk
bigie bob 17/Feb/15 Lead RP
nickmoulden 27/Jan/15 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
Hidden 23/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Nov/14 Lead RP
oread 26/Oct/14 Lead RP

4th session, ticked go after falling at the chains!

Wil Treasure 22/Aug/14 Lead RP
Nick Sillem 13/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Apr/14 -
Hidden 19/Apr/14 TR dog
Hidden 19/Apr/14 TR dog
Jacob Bloodworth ?/Apr/14 Lead RP

Worked this a a few years ago. 2nd go when I came back to do it.

Wood for Trees 23/Mar/14 Lead dog

Hard work in the sun, sequence acquired.

with Shrewbert
Hidden 28/Sep/13 TR dog
piken 22/Sep/13 Lead RP

first done 2005

with Andy
Julian Cooper 02/Sep/13 Lead dog

Day 2 on my 7b+ project. Got the first finger lock move sorted and Ben showed me a neat finish. Just all the moves in between to go!

with Ben Steel
Hidden 14/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
a_hein 12/May/13 Lead RP

Cold and fingery but good

robertmichaellovell 12/May/13 TR dog


with Andy H
w.pettet-smith ?/Apr/13 Lead RP

second day of climbing at malham, nice to get off the warm ups.brilliant day out, beers on the terrace shouting my pals on safe in the knowledge I wont have to tie in again!

with ben and jonny
Hidden 13/Mar/13 Lead RP
nickmoulden 10/Jan/13 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead RP
WB 02/Sep/12 Lead RP
with Chris
chris_j_s 20/Jul/12 Lead dog

Excited just to get on this - amazing!

with Will Carroll
thebigfriendlymoose 14/Jul/12 Lead RP

1st lead try after 2-3 toprope goes.

with Martin Fisher
efrance24234 30/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Just that one last move i cant do

fennerz 17/Jun/12 Lead RP

1st RP.

with Ed and Adam
Ed Booth 17/Jun/12 Lead RP

faile flash go so dogged it and tried moves then led next go.

Joe Innes 08/Jun/12 Lead dog
Graham Iles 28/Apr/12 TR dog
with Nick Wharton
Hidden 27/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/12 Lead RP
zero six ?/Apr/12 Lead RP

Felt like two different routes - tried in the sun and it felt totally nails, came back a couple weeks later on a cloudy day and sent 1st redders and felt pretty straightforward.

Wil Treasure 11/Mar/12 Lead dog

In 2 overlapping halves, much better than I expected. Hopefully will go down next visit.

Hidden 09/Mar/12 TR dnf
Wil Treasure 26/Feb/12 TR dog

Got all the moves. Brilliant route, will be back soon.

with Dunc
Hidden ??/2012 TR dnf
will9911 06/Nov/11 Lead RP
jfreeman 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Nicholl
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
Stefan Kruger 20/Aug/11 Lead RP

Awesome, hard route. Great finish to a great week in the dales.

uptown 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sean_J
Rob1988 25/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Cal
sammo247 11/Jun/11 Lead dnf
chiverstom 11/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead RP
highrepute 05/Apr/11 Lead RP
khawk 19/Mar/11 Lead dog
with DT
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead dnf
jacobjacob 02/Mar/11 Lead RP

After a truly appalling onsight attempt, sorted my life out and got it second go. Great route!

Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2011 Lead
escalade ??/2011 -
Hidden 12/Apr/10 Lead RP
willackers 11/Apr/10 Lead RP

Failed to Flash it. Lowered from 3rd bolt then did it next go. Flashed the top. Nice

with Malc and Henners
NDD 21/Mar/10 Lead RP

Quite tricky. Pretty pleased to get after not been back climbing for long.

Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
pezzerrr 07/Sep/09 Lead RP
Ally Smith ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Date a guess

nathanmanc 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
jondude 28/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/09 Lead β
Hidden 24/Feb/09 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/09 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
C coldwell-storry ??/2009 Lead RP
with Mike Thomas
Hidden 11/Dec/08 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Oct/08 -
will9911 22/Aug/08 Lead dog
with will
Ram MkiV 10/Aug/08 Lead RP

first tried over 2 years ago. Almost as hard and painful as I'd remembered it. Very good and satisfying none the less. 1st redpoint today.

with G-stock
andy gravestock 10/Aug/08 Lead RP

The first route that i have done on the upper tier, Although the climbing is tough a painfull on the skin i can deffinatly see myself doing more up there, as the climbing is supperb. (obsession great route done 1st redpoint today).

with steve
Greg Boswell 08/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Robbie Phillips
Dave Bond 19/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/08 -
Hidden 03/Apr/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Feb/08 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 27/Nov/07 TR rpt
Hidden 15/Nov/07 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Oct/07 -
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jul/07 Lead RP
Tony Little 19/Aug/06 Lead RP
with Darren
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Lead RP
Hidden User 56 25/Jun/06 Lead RP

Did for the first time years and years ago, had a quick top-rope then did it 1st RP. Fantastic route, benchmark 7b+

with Ian Patterson
Henners 01/Feb/06 Lead RP
with Neil Buzby
Toby Dunn ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
marky ??/2005 Lead RP
Cassidy 15/Aug/04 Lead RP
with Henners
marric ?/Aug/04 Lead RP
with M. Williams (now Richards)
Mike Owen 12/Jun/04 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2003 -
Rich Kirby ?/Sep/02 Lead RP
with Ant
nige ?/Mar/02 Lead RP
with mark hounslea
sadams 08/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Kathryn & Nic
Mike Owen 04/Jul/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 20/Jun/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 17/Jun/99 Lead RP
Mike Owen 05/May/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 03/May/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/May/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/Apr/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24/Apr/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 14/Mar/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
innes ??/1999 Lead RP
Hidden 31/May/98 Lead RP
Mike Owen 14/Mar/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden User 56 ??/1998 -
craig matheson ??/1998 Lead RP
Mike Owen 11/Oct/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 29/Jun/97 Lead rpt
with Nige Hunt, Elaine Owen
buzby78 10/May/97 Lead RP


with Boab
Mike Owen 08/Mar/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
switch ??/1997 Lead RP
dominic lee ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S

Freezing cold wooden hands!

with daniel lee
Hidden 24/Aug/96 Lead β
goi.ashmore 13/Jul/96 Lead RP
with Matt Hirst
Mike Owen 22/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/May/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
whispering nic ?/May/96 Lead dog
Mike Owen 28/Apr/96 Lead rpt

Led twice at the end of the day.

with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 21/Apr/96 Lead rpt

Led twice at the end of the day.

with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 20/Apr/96 Lead rpt

Led twice.

with Elaine Owen
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Apr/96 Lead RP

Excellent. 3rd go

with Dad
Dave Musgrove 06/Apr/96 2nd dog

Hmmm! Hard, but I managed all the moves, maybe one day?

with David
robyn1 ??/1996 -
Mike Owen 01/Oct/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Carolyn Young 30/Sep/95 Lead RP
with Dave
Graeme Smithy ?/Aug/95 Lead RP

Flashed to the last move going for the chain and then fell off - Knob!

with Ian Cooksey
Mike Owen 23/Jul/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22/Jun/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 07/May/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 29/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Billg 14/Apr/95 Lead RP
with Andy Swan
Mike Owen 02/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/Mar/95 Lead rpt
with Andy Mitchell
Mike Owen 15/Oct/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
CBA ?/Jun/94 -
Mike Owen 27/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 26/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/Sep/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 04/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 18/Jul/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 20/Jun/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15/Jun/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Steve Crowe 25/Apr/93 Lead RP

1st RP

with KM
Seb Grieve ??/1993 Lead β

Surprised myself with a flash (with Beta tho) of this classic. Now sadly spoilt by having an extra bolt in the runout. Needs chopping an returning to its original fluttery state.

Mike Owen 11/Oct/92 Lead rpt
with Dougie Hall
Mike Owen 04/Oct/92 Lead rpt
with Tim Hatch
crossleysm ?/Sep/92 Lead RP
jfletcher 23/Aug/92 Lead RP
ukb & bmc shark 10/Aug/92 Lead RP
Mike Owen 30/May/92 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 12/Apr/92 Lead rpt
with Steve Roberts
Mike Owen 23/Jun/91 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24/Mar/91 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 13/Oct/90 Lead rpt
with Andy Moss
Dave Douglas 11/Sep/90 Lead RP
Dave Douglas 11/Sep/90 Lead RP
Mike Owen 01/Apr/90 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Andy Hyslop ?/Mar/90 -
keefe ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with Chris Sowden
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1990 -
with keefe
mark mcgowan01 ??/1989 -
keefe 31/Jul/88 Lead RP
Mike Owen 30/Sep/87 Lead RP
with Tim Lowe
stp 15/Aug/84 Lead

F.A inspired by a 7a that looked similar I'd done earlier in the year at La Loubiere. Took 3 days of effort and certainly harder than anything else I'd done at the time. But was also aware it was easier than other routes considered E6 - Main OH, Cave Route LH, Free n Easy, etc. So gave it E5/6. Some tight gits nicked the original belay soon after it was done. Must have aided Main OH and across for and old krab and old rope. The good old days. The start has since been shifted to the R and the original crux is avoided by climbing further L - though still hard. Antoine Le Menestrel and J.B Tribout both onsighted it in 85 and thought 7b but 7b+ seems fair to me.

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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set