UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand tufa is hard to reach and pumpy thereafter. It has become popular to finish on the left, before the upper tufa. This is easier but still worth 7c+. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Leach 1985.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alessandro78 19 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: I, as everyone I have seen doing the route, have done it with the far right start and (necessarily) with the two first preclipped...it's obviously much harder starting straight but apparently possible according to some previous comments...I wonder if something came off since, though, as I can't see any obvious way to get up...?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I, as everyone I have seen doing the route, have done it with the far right start and (necessarily) with the two first preclipped...it's obviously much harder starting straight but apparently possible according to some previous comments...I wonder if something came off since, though, as I can't see any obvious way to get up...?
Tim Broughtonshaw 3 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant as aforementioned. Feels quite akin to a harder and slightly better serious young toads. quite sustained no real obvious rests.
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant as aforementioned. Feels quite akin to a harder and slightly better serious young toads. quite sustained no real obvious rests.
GDes 29 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant. Kills your skin whilst figuring out the moves, but not too bad once you know the holds. The description here says finish before the tufa, eh? Do you not mean its become popular to move left to the flake, then back right to finish up the tufa?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant. Kills your skin whilst figuring out the moves, but not too bad once you know the holds. The description here says finish before the tufa, eh? Do you not mean its become popular to move left to the flake, then back right to finish up the tufa?
Andy Farnell 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant rock, brilliant moves, brillant route.
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant rock, brilliant moves, brillant route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Con Artist

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Gordale Scar)

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