Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
A neglected classic with two fine and sustained pitches.1) 6b, 21m. Move up then head leftwards to a peg and jammed wire. Gain the small corner above and then the slim groove up and right. Easier climbing leads to the belay.2) 6b, 20m. Step left from the belay and pull through the bulge to a steep groove (left of the larger groove). Climb this past a hole (thread) and up to a break. Move right and up to a short corner and climb up and right to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Atkinson, Barry Rawlinson, Nick Unsworth 1982.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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whispering nic | 25 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Awesome. Did in one pitch which justied the old E6 tag | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome. Did in one pitch which justied the old E6 tag |
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GeoffG | 19 Jan, 2004 |
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βeta: stunning. doesn't get the attention it deserves. a brilliant addition from basher. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: stunning. doesn't get the attention it deserves. a brilliant addition from basher. |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Ash Head)