UKC Logbook - 'Crossbones'

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

Last update: 23/05/2023

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26m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great climbing to a fine finish. 1) 5a, 10m. Climb upto a flake then rightwards past two trees to a good belay on a ledge. 2) 5c, 16m. Move up left then back right and upto a rock scar. Continue to good holds then move right. Step up to the ramp and follow this and the right wall to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Tony and Robin Barley (1pt) 1967. FFA. Pete Livesey 1970s and given VS!.

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Fiend	14 Aug, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Enjoyable route that's obviously done in one pitch. Good rock and good continuous climbing, especially the finish. The crux is desperate for "5c" and harder than anything on Sundance Wall or Wombat.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Enjoyable route that's obviously done in one pitch. Good rock and good continuous climbing, especially the finish. The crux is desperate for "5c" and harder than anything on Sundance Wall or Wombat.
GDes	16 Jun, 2004	Show βeta βeta: much better done in one pitch	βeta?
Show beta βeta: much better done in one pitch
John Stainforth	22 Aug, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Incredibly, this was given ordinary VS in 1970. I remember thinking it was then about as hard as Vector at Tremadoc, i.e. E2 5C, much the same as the current perception!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Incredibly, this was given ordinary VS in 1970. I remember thinking it was then about as hard as Vector at Tremadoc, i.e. E2 5C, much the same as the current perception!