125m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A route that covers some of the same ground as Coley Smoke albeit in a more direct version. Start at a large finger-shaped boulder at ground level, below a scooped boulder with three grooves in its top half.
1) 5, 25m. Climb the centre of the scoop and exit via the middle one of the three grooves. Continue up easy slabs to a spike belay below the main crack.
2) 5, 30m. Climb steeply up the jagged crack then, when the angle eases, step right into a left-slanting groove. Up this as it steepens into a blind layback crack then, where this ends, step right and belay a little higher below some loose blocks.
3) 5+, 40m. Move left for 5m over the loose blocks (care needed) to gain the main corner. Follow this past a roof to where it steepens. Pass the steepening with difficulty then belay in the base of the chimney above.
4) 5-, 30m. As for Coley Smoke. © Rockfax

Graeme Hammond 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1 & 2 together, p3 and Bex led 4

with Becky E
Hidden 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
M.Hallen 03/Aug/16 AltLd

Magnificent climb. Lead P2, P4 and P6. P2 was a little bit hard to protect in my opinion, but climbing went fine. P3 and P4 were fantastic. Could not find the abseil, so ended up continuing up the last three pitches of Very Expensive ticket. This is absolutely recommended. P5 (P4 on VET) is both beautiful and dark. Great climbing!

with Jarl, Carolina
RAK 25/Jun/14 Lead
with Lauri
chrisallan 23/Jul/13 AltLd

Pitch 3 is very good.

mes32 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2+4. Great variety.

with Chris
mtempest 11/Jul/12 AltLd

Led P1 & P3

Dan Lane 11/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P2 and 4. I found p2 terrifying but in reality it isn't that hard. P3 and 4 offer two different styles of equally sublime climbing!. Abseil descent from fixed nut belays 15m below the traverse level.

cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
JoelO ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Elisa, Anne
Hidden 08/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
John Roe 06/Aug/09 AltLd

4 pitches, 125m. Led pitches 1 & 3

with Gaz Brown
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