47m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of Yorkshire's classic E3s. Excellent moves and wild positions provide the fun. Much of the fixed gear is old but there is plenty of it and it can be backed-up. 1) 5c, 25m. Start up the corner which can often be damp and slippery and at its top move right onto the wall. Follow the line of old pegs and threads to a small stance. 2) 6a, 15m. Move left and up to the roof. Pull round with difficulty, either direct, or slightly right, to easier ground above. Well protected. Abseil off. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1971

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Yorkshire Limestone top 50

Feedback

UserDateNotes
simon cox 11 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did this yesterday with a fair amount of seepage and yes, what a class route this is - there is plenty of natural gear to back up the pegs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this yesterday with a fair amount of seepage and yes, what a class route this is - there is plenty of natural gear to back up the pegs.
daimon 29 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Retro Bolt it or somthing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Retro Bolt it or somthing.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
dan gibson 24 Jul Lead O/S
Owen Diba 27 May Lead O/S In a oner and direct at the roof. Had a bit of a mare initially going right at the top then changing my mind and shakily downclimbing the roof.
In a oner and direct at the roof. Had a bit of a mare initially going right at the top then changing my mind and shakily downclimbing the roof.
Hidden 19 May 2nd
Hidden 12 May Lead O/S
CMoore 14 Apr Lead O/S Brilliant route. A bit loose but just adds to the experience. Lead P1. So much gear on it I was out of quick draws. Belayed and handed over to Rory who took a fall on the last crux move. Swapped leads and I lead through. Dry but very cold and windy day. Numb fingers and toes made it feel a bit stiff.
with tunnah
Brilliant route. A bit loose but just adds to the experience. Lead P1. So much gear on it I was out of quick draws. Belayed and handed over to Rory who took a fall on the last crux move. Swapped leads and I lead through. Dry but very cold and windy day. Numb fingers and toes made it feel a bit stiff.
with tunnah
tunnah 14 Apr AltLd dog fell off second pitch
with CMoore
fell off second pitch
with CMoore
mrblack ?? -
Jono_1989 6 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Attempted in a oner. Dropped the crux move after going up wrong handed, tat snapped and took an upside down whipper. Too sore to finish. Awesome route, will definitely be back.
Attempted in a oner. Dropped the crux move after going up wrong handed, tat snapped and took an upside down whipper. Too sore to finish. Awesome route, will definitely be back.
Jon Garside 20 May, 2018 -
Al Evans ??, 2018 2nd an early free ascent
with ron fawcett
an early free ascent
with ron fawcett
nathanlee 17 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Henry did it in a oner, brilliant route
with Henry Francis
Henry did it in a oner, brilliant route
with Henry Francis
petegunn 21 May, 2017 AltLd Matt did well on the drippy start. It was bone dry last week!
Matt did well on the drippy start. It was bone dry last week!
petegunn 11 May, 2017 Lead Superb, topped out and layed in the sun. Found the crux straight forward and easy to read. Beautiful day : )
Superb, topped out and layed in the sun. Found the crux straight forward and easy to read. Beautiful day : )
Hidden 11 May, 2017 2nd O/S
spidermonkey ??, 2017 - Not as good as expected. Wet windy conditions though. Quite a lot of loose rock too. Great exposure
Not as good as expected. Wet windy conditions though. Quite a lot of loose rock too. Great exposure
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Hidden 26 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 2016 AltLd
GPN 8 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S In 1 pitch. Brilliant route - very dust low down - deserves more traffic!
In 1 pitch. Brilliant route - very dust low down - deserves more traffic!
Nick Clement 8 Jun, 2016 2nd
with GPN
with GPN
Hidden ??, 2016 AltLd
Greg Cunningham 4 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S lead in one pitch - superb route
with Ben Heason
lead in one pitch - superb route
with Ben Heason
phil64 ??, 2015 -
simon kimber 5 Oct, 2014 Lead Did exactly what Duncan did - got wrong handed at the crux, couldn't reverse, droppped off onto those two shite pegs, lowered down to the rest before finishing it off. Amazing big pitch, but so much manky gear.
with Phil Evans
Did exactly what Duncan did - got wrong handed at the crux, couldn't reverse, droppped off onto those two shite pegs, lowered down to the rest before finishing it off. Amazing big pitch, but so much manky gear.
with Phil Evans
samrad 1 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S In 1 pitch.
In 1 pitch.
farmus21 1 Oct, 2014 Lead dog Lead as one pitch. Lacked the gumption for the final pull and fell. Climbed from belay clean. Great route.
with Sam Radcliffe
Lead as one pitch. Lacked the gumption for the final pull and fell. Climbed from belay clean. Great route.
with Sam Radcliffe
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Climbed in a single pitch, then direct over the roof at the top
with Will Pettet Smith
Climbed in a single pitch, then direct over the roof at the top
with Will Pettet Smith
benka 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S pegs looking a tad old, intense route in one pitch, excellent
with steve h
pegs looking a tad old, intense route in one pitch, excellent
with steve h
The old James turnbull ?Sep, 2014 Lead
with dave brown
with dave brown
Justin T 5 Aug, 2014 2nd
Rachel Slater 5 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S In a oner, fantastic route!!! First pitch was drippy, maybe E2 when dry? Second pitch one move wonder but so airy and nice..
In a oner, fantastic route!!! First pitch was drippy, maybe E2 when dry? Second pitch one move wonder but so airy and nice..
Duncan Campbell 26 Jul, 2014 Lead Awesome lead in one big pitch. Foolishly got wrong-handed on the crux and couldnt reverse so tried to keep going up. fell off, lowered to where the belay would be if you split it and re-climbed the top pitch clean from there. That'll do.
Awesome lead in one big pitch. Foolishly got wrong-handed on the crux and couldnt reverse so tried to keep going up. fell off, lowered to where the belay would be if you split it and re-climbed the top pitch clean from there. That'll do.
Nick Clement 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Paul Figg
with Paul Figg
Paul Figg 5 Jul, 2014 2nd
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden 26 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hannes B 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S in 1, beautiful route if a bit wobbly to start. thank u
with Sara, rikbattye
in 1, beautiful route if a bit wobbly to start. thank u
with Sara, rikbattye
Hidden 15 Jul, 2013 2nd
markalmack 15 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S There are a lot of wobbly holds, but I guess this adds to the fun. Done in a oner. Really enjoyed the first pitch.
with ctodd
There are a lot of wobbly holds, but I guess this adds to the fun. Done in a oner. Really enjoyed the first pitch.
with ctodd
Tom Briggs 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
Hidden 16 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
captain ??, 2013 -
Mike_Hayes 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S Epic route. 2 pitches. Take 15 quick draws for doing in one. Went left past flake on crux overhang - felt like v hard 6a to me like this.
Epic route. 2 pitches. Take 15 quick draws for doing in one. Went left past flake on crux overhang - felt like v hard 6a to me like this.
Mr Sparkle 26 May, 2012 2nd dog Tough move to cross the final roof. Trick is to go right here, not left!
Tough move to cross the final roof. Trick is to go right here, not left!
akhughes 5 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Top pitch is a bit of a let down. VS climbing to a 6alet move. First pitch is top draw.
Top pitch is a bit of a let down. VS climbing to a 6alet move. First pitch is top draw.
Jack00 4 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Seconded first pitch. Led second.
with Dan Miller
Seconded first pitch. Led second.
with Dan Miller
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??, 2011 -
Dave Parton ??, 2011 -
escalade ??, 2011 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13 Jun, 2010 AltLd Rich led p1 (dirty - probably first ascent of 2010), I led p2.
with Rich Mayfield
Rich led p1 (dirty - probably first ascent of 2010), I led p2.
with Rich Mayfield
Justin T 9 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S Awesome! Fixed gear is questionable in places but it's generally either backed up with natural gear or sufficiently plentiful as to not be a major worry. Move above final roof felt 6a to me going up just right of the pegs. Re previous comment it seems fairly contrived to insist the 'true' line is some eliminate direct up past the peg at that point particularly when you're then heading right to the tree anyhow. I'll take the guidebook description which says either way is just fine.
Awesome! Fixed gear is questionable in places but it's generally either backed up with natural gear or sufficiently plentiful as to not be a major worry. Move above final roof felt 6a to me going up just right of the pegs. Re previous comment it seems fairly contrived to insist the 'true' line is some eliminate direct up past the peg at that point particularly when you're then heading right to the tree anyhow. I'll take the guidebook description which says either way is just fine.
Hidden 9 Oct, 2009 2nd
DSM 2 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Don't understand comments re top pitch. There is a bent peg but it does not obscure any holds! The way to climb the crux takes a little working out but once wired its two quick 6Aish moves, certainly nothing harder. A very fine & memorable outing especially if you climb the overhanging & half-dead yew tree to top out!
with Andy Gittins
Don't understand comments re top pitch. There is a bent peg but it does not obscure any holds! The way to climb the crux takes a little working out but once wired its two quick 6Aish moves, certainly nothing harder. A very fine & memorable outing especially if you climb the overhanging & half-dead yew tree to top out!
with Andy Gittins
Alex Mason 23 Jun, 2009 Lead rpt Seconded Steve on this in 06. bottom pitch is absolutely brilliant, second pitch used to have good moves but the peg over the roof has bent and is now covering the crucial handhold so its 6b. or potentially cop-out right. Also on pitch 1 there is a heavy reliance on fixed gear which is getting poor so could be quite bold quite soon.
Seconded Steve on this in 06. bottom pitch is absolutely brilliant, second pitch used to have good moves but the peg over the roof has bent and is now covering the crucial handhold so its 6b. or potentially cop-out right. Also on pitch 1 there is a heavy reliance on fixed gear which is getting poor so could be quite bold quite soon.
Hidden ??, 2009 2nd
Hidden ??, 2009 -
andy gittins ??, 2009 2nd dog desperate top pitch
desperate top pitch
Oliver Wright ??, 2008 -
Brown 11 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Max
with Max
Greg Boswell 12 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
mgeek ?Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with greg boswell
with greg boswell
GuyM ??, 2007 AltLd
with WB
with WB
Ally Smith ??, 2007 AltLd O/S Date is a guess - lead top pitch.
with Aly
Date is a guess - lead top pitch.
with Aly
WB 30 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
Ram MkiV 7 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S Did it as 2 pitches but I led both.
with Alex
Did it as 2 pitches but I led both.
with Alex
Enty ??, 2006 -
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2005 AltLd
steveb2006 29 Jun, 2003 Lead Roland backs off first pitch - due to loose rock and poor pegs. Lead second pitch too
with Roland Smith
Roland backs off first pitch - due to loose rock and poor pegs. Lead second pitch too
with Roland Smith
pezzerrr 3 Sep, 2002 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?May, 2002 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 24 Jul, 1999 2nd rpt Karin led this time
with karin
Karin led this time
with karin
craig matheson ??, 1998 -
TCP ?Jul, 1997 Lead O/S Nice safe Gordale route lead and seconded dale Holding in August that year
with Dale Holding,
Nice safe Gordale route lead and seconded dale Holding in August that year
with Dale Holding,
FATBOYFAT ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Mark Harris
with Mark Harris
ellis ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Muir Morton
with Muir Morton
innes ?Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with Jake
with Jake
Rich Kirby ?Jun, 1996 AltLd rpt
with Tim Bonner
with Tim Bonner
Mick King 13 Jul, 1995 AltLd dog 2nd P1, then dog P2 through the overhang
with Karl Lunt
2nd P1, then dog P2 through the overhang
with Karl Lunt
Hidden 9 Jul, 1995 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 1995 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?Jul, 1995 AltLd
with sharpie
with sharpie
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22 Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S superb
with Al Willoner
superb
with Al Willoner
D Tempest 14 Jun, 1995 AltLd
with Rick
with Rick
Hidden ?Apr, 1995 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead O/S
goshawk ??, 1995 Lead
with JI
with JI
robyn1 ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
accynez 27 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S Good lead of 2nd pitch by Andy
with Andy Mac
Good lead of 2nd pitch by Andy
with Andy Mac
Mike_d78 24 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 20 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 12 Jul, 1994 AltLd
with Robert Durran
with Robert Durran
Hidden ?Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
Steve Crowe 1 May, 1994 Lead O/S Superb, a classic.
Superb, a classic.
Roget 29 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
mattnuttall 7 Jul, 1993 AltLd O/S lead 5c pitch
with Alan Holden
lead 5c pitch
with Alan Holden
crossleysm ??, 1993 AltLd O/S lead, sec c.93
lead, sec c.93
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
rob.grafton 7 Jul, 1992 Lead
with Bruce
with Bruce
Neil R 11 Jun, 1992 2nd dog
with Mark
with Mark
pete johnson 22 May, 1992 AltLd
with James Ward
with James Ward
Hidden ??, 1992 -
allmag 30 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S My second E3, I admit to not doing it in good style (sneaky pull on a peg on pitch1) although I did find the pitch 2 supposed crux rather easy. Fantastic route!
with John Kerrison
My second E3, I admit to not doing it in good style (sneaky pull on a peg on pitch1) although I did find the pitch 2 supposed crux rather easy. Fantastic route!
with John Kerrison
ajtay ?May, 1991 Lead
with Colin Bostock
with Colin Bostock
Bulls Crack ??, 1991 Lead O/S
with AM
with AM
rob.grafton 9 Sep, 1990 AltLd
with Bruce
with Bruce
jfletcher 3 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
with Tim Newton
with Tim Newton
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Dave Rumney 28 Aug, 1989 AltLd
Stoney Boy 24 Jun, 1989 AltLd O/S Pitch 2
with Colin Hughes
Pitch 2
with Colin Hughes
uphillnow 21 May, 1989 2nd Since lead Pitch 1
with john stanger
Since lead Pitch 1
with john stanger
David Slater 15 May, 1989 AltLd
Hidden 13 May, 1989 AltLd rpt
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jan, 1989 AltLd
johno072 ??, 1989 AltLd
Rich Kirby ??, 1989 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 6 Nov, 1988 Lead
with Mike Boyle
with Mike Boyle
Dave Musgrove 26 Jun, 1988 2nd I had a bad day. Frank led both pitches. I failed to lead p2.
with Frank Wilkinson
I had a bad day. Frank led both pitches. I failed to lead p2.
with Frank Wilkinson
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 5 Jun, 1988 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
with Bill Williamson
steveb2006 30 Aug, 1987 AltLd Led first pitch - wet at start. Mervyn pulls out the stops to lad the top pitch.
with Mervyn Dudley
Led first pitch - wet at start. Mervyn pulls out the stops to lad the top pitch.
with Mervyn Dudley
andybirtwistle 9 Aug, 1987 AltLd
with Ian Kyle
with Ian Kyle
Bob 23 Apr, 1987 AltLd Led the first serious pitch. The top pitch is a one move wonder.
with A Hyslop
Led the first serious pitch. The top pitch is a one move wonder.
with A Hyslop
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
HighChilternRidge ?Aug, 1986 -
Hidden 13 Jul, 1986 Lead
sadams 12 Jul, 1986 AltLd
with Kevin Edwards
with Kevin Edwards
MikeYouCanClimb ??, 1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Sep, 1985 Lead
Pete Wimbush ?Sep, 1985 AltLd
Mike Owen 12 May, 1985 AltLd O/S
with Phil Ralph
with Phil Ralph
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1985 Lead O/S
stp 10 Aug, 1983 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2.
Lead pitch 2.
Neil McA 10 Aug, 1983 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1.
with Steve Lewis
Led pitch 1.
with Steve Lewis
Ian Jones ??, 1983 Lead O/S Kosher
with Chris Gore
Kosher
with Chris Gore
Mark Kemball 15 May, 1982 AltLd
with Chris Calow
with Chris Calow
charlesmfrench 1 May, 1982 2nd O/S With Andy from Keighley. Again on 31/7/82 and again on 13/8/94.
With Andy from Keighley. Again on 31/7/82 and again on 13/8/94.
Hidden 26 Apr, 1982 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead
clanger ??, 1979 -
clanger ??, 1979 -
Hidden ??, 1973 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1971 2nd
with Dave Barton
with Dave Barton
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Voting
High E4
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
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Votes cast 32
High 6b
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Votes cast 31
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
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Repeated
DNF
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