47m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of Yorkshire's classic E3s. Excellent moves and wild positions provide the fun. Much of the fixed gear is old but there is plenty of it and it can be backed-up. 1) 5c, 25m. Start up the corner which can often be damp and slippery and at its top move right onto the wall. Follow the line of old pegs and threads to a small stance. 2) 6a, 15m. Move left and up to the roof. Pull round with difficulty, either direct, or slightly right, to easier ground above. Well protected. Abseil off. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1971

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
AC1 26/Jun/16 AltLd

Great line, some really nice climbing - spectacular.

with Michael Barnard
GPN 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch. Brilliant route - very dust low down - deserves more traffic!

Hidden ??/2016 AltLd
Greg Cunningham 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

lead in one pitch - superb route

with Ben Heason
phil64 ??/2015 -
simon kimber 05/Oct/14 Lead

Did exactly what Duncan did - got wrong handed at the crux, couldn't reverse, droppped off onto those two shite pegs, lowered down to the rest before finishing it off. Amazing big pitch, but so much manky gear.

with Phil Evans
samrad 01/Oct/14 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch.

farmus21 01/Oct/14 Lead dog

Lead as one pitch. Lacked the gumption for the final pull and fell. Climbed from belay clean. Great route.

with Sam Radcliffe
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Climbed in a single pitch, then direct over the roof at the top

with Will Pettet Smith
benka 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

pegs looking a tad old, intense route in one pitch, excellent

with steve h
The old James turnbull ?/Sep/14 Lead
with dave brown
Rachel Slater 05/Aug/14 Lead O/S

In a oner, fantastic route!!! First pitch was drippy, maybe E2 when dry? Second pitch one move wonder but so airy and nice..

Justin T 05/Aug/14 2nd
with Rachel
Duncan Campbell 26/Jul/14 Lead

Awesome lead in one big pitch. Foolishly got wrong-handed on the crux and couldnt reverse so tried to keep going up. fell off, lowered to where the belay would be if you split it and re-climbed the top pitch clean from there. That'll do.

with Almadad
Nick Clement 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Paul Figg
Paul Figg 05/Jul/14 2nd
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/13 AltLd
Hannes B 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

in 1, beautiful route if a bit wobbly to start. thank u

with Sara, Rik
Hidden 15/Jul/13 2nd
markalmack 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S

There are a lot of wobbly holds, but I guess this adds to the fun. Done in a oner. Really enjoyed the first pitch.

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Cave
rikbattye ?/Jul/13 -
Hidden 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
captain ??/2013 -
Mike_Hayes 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Epic route. 2 pitches. Take 15 quick draws for doing in one. Went left past flake on crux overhang - felt like v hard 6a to me like this.

Mr Sparkle 26/May/12 2nd dog

Tough move to cross the final roof. Trick is to go right here, not left!

akhughes 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Top pitch is a bit of a let down. VS climbing to a 6alet move. First pitch is top draw.

Jack00 04/May/11 AltLd O/S

Seconded first pitch. Led second.

with Dan Miller
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
escalade ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/Jun/10 AltLd

Rich led p1 (dirty - probably first ascent of 2010), I led p2.

with Rich Mayfield
Justin T 09/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Awesome! Fixed gear is questionable in places but it's generally either backed up with natural gear or sufficiently plentiful as to not be a major worry. Move above final roof felt 6a to me going up just right of the pegs. Re previous comment it seems fairly contrived to insist the 'true' line is some eliminate direct up past the peg at that point particularly when you're then heading right to the tree anyhow. I'll take the guidebook description which says either way is just fine.

with Cherry
Hidden 09/Oct/09 2nd
DSM 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Don't understand comments re top pitch. There is a bent peg but it does not obscure any holds! The way to climb the crux takes a little working out but once wired its two quick 6Aish moves, certainly nothing harder. A very fine & memorable outing especially if you climb the overhanging & half-dead yew tree to top out!

with Andy Gittins
Alex Mason 23/Jun/09 Lead rpt

Seconded Steve on this in 06. bottom pitch is absolutely brilliant, second pitch used to have good moves but the peg over the roof has bent and is now covering the crucial handhold so its 6b. or potentially cop-out right. Also on pitch 1 there is a heavy reliance on fixed gear which is getting poor so could be quite bold quite soon.

with Steve R
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
andy gittins ??/2009 2nd dog

desperate top pitch

Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Oliver Wright ??/2008 -
Brown 11/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Max
Greg Boswell 12/Apr/07 Lead O/S
mgeek ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with greg boswell
GuyM ??/2007 AltLd
with will
Ally Smith ??/2007 AltLd O/S

Date is a guess - lead top pitch.

WB 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Guy
Ram MkiV 07/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Did it as 2 pitches but I led both.

with Alex
Boy ??/2006 -
Enty ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/03 Lead
pezzerrr 03/Sep/02 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/May/02 AltLd O/S
with Tweedley
Hidden ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 24/Jul/99 2nd rpt

Karin led this time

with KM
craig matheson ??/1998 -
Graeme Smithy ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S

Nice safe Gordale route lead and seconded dale Holding in August that year

with Dale Holding,
ellis ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Muir Morton
FATBOYFAT ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Mark Harris
innes ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Jake
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/96 AltLd rpt
with Tim Bonner
Hidden ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?/Jul/95 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/Jun/95 AltLd O/S


with Al Willoner
D Tempest 14/Jun/95 AltLd
with Rick
Hidden ?/Apr/95 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
nokishatov 24/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
ste_d 20/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
Hidden ?/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
Steve Crowe 01/May/94 Lead O/S

Superb, a classic.

Roget 29/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with jon
mattnuttall 07/Jul/93 AltLd O/S

lead 5c pitch

with Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
crossleysm ??/1993 AltLd O/S

lead, sec c.93

rob.grafton 07/Jul/92 Lead
with Bruce
Neil R 11/Jun/92 2nd dog
with Mark
Hidden ??/1992 -
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead
Bulls Crack ??/1991 Lead O/S
with AM
rob.grafton 09/Sep/90 AltLd
with Bruce
jfletcher 03/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Tim Newton
allmag 31/Jul/90 Lead dog

Apparently a line just to the left of the pegs after moving round the roof on pitch 1 is a bit easier. Found the 6a 'crux' quite easy - wide bridging, finger lock and heave.

Bullybones ??/1990 -
Dave Rumney 28/Aug/89 AltLd
Stoney Boy 24/Jun/89 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

with Colin Hughes
uphillnow 21/May/89 2nd

Since lead Pitch 1

with john stanger
Hidden 13/May/89 AltLd rpt
Rich Kirby ??/1989 AltLd O/S
johno072 ??/1989 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 06/Nov/88 Lead
with Mike Boyle
Dave Musgrove 26/Jun/88 2nd

I had a bad day. Frank led both pitches. I failed to lead p2.

with Frank Wilkinson
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 05/Jun/88 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
Hidden 30/Aug/87 AltLd
andybirtwistle 09/Aug/87 AltLd
with Ian Kyle
Bob 23/Apr/87 AltLd

Led the first serious pitch. The top pitch is a one move wonder.

with A Hyslop
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
sadams 12/Jul/86 AltLd
with Kevin Edwards
MikeYouCanClimb ??/1986 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 12/May/85 AltLd O/S
with Phil Ralph
Eduardo Martinez ??/1985 Lead O/S
stp 10/Aug/83 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2.

Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S


with Chris Gore
Mark Kemball 15/May/82 AltLd
with Chris Calow
charlesmfrench 01/May/82 2nd O/S

With Andy from Keighley. Again on 31/7/82 and again on 13/8/94.

Hidden 26/Apr/82 AltLd
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Joe Giblin, Gary Nuttall
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 31
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set