50m, 2 pitches. The 2nd pitch climbs the chimney behind the 2nd column. Go straight up from the 1st belay past a thread for best value & minimal greenery.
keep a Rock ~#5 & #9 for the 2nd belay.

ClimberDateStyle
mattx1123 10/May AltLd

led p1, bit loose, got well involved in chimney. p2 pretty exposed if not difficult on 2nd, esp round the corner and grassy topout.

Darrell Read 10/May AltLd

Matt led pitch 1, Darrell led pitch 2. Really cool climb, the position on the second pitch is brilliant. Horrendous grassy top out.

sheelba 19/Apr AltLd

Awesome route! Finally a route as good as Monolith Crack. Don't listen to the doomsayers and get on it. The second pitch is unreal at the grade and certainly not too tricky if you can chimney. The loose stuff at the start needs a little care but is easily avoidable and the grassy top-out is very protectable and a fairly tame example of the genre. If this was on Stanage it would be considered one of the best sevres in the country.

with Naomi
satnav09 26/Oct/16 Lead

WARNING: this route is very very dangerous. If I had read this page, I would certainly not have climbed it. The dangerous block mentioned below has now been removed (on to my head). There is other loose stuff waiting to come down too (directly onto your belayer). The top out is very intense. loose, grassy, run out. To put this into context, the previous climb I had done on the hebrides was the prozac link, which felt way less intense, and altogether a lot of an easier and safer day out.

Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/13 2nd
OERees 29/Jun/12 Lead O/S

The SMC Guidebook has this route graded at VS!

Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Liam Ingram 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Fun but far far too serious for severe. Top out is very worrying!

catrin289 10/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Cardi 22/May/12 2nd O/S

Crazy position!

with Jon W
MoWalker3 12/Apr/12 -

Wow, what a superb route. Definitively graded correctly in the guide book,(GL)a bit iffy on the exit to the belay at the top but good gear. tip - go straight up from the 1st belay!

with Cormac
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Ali H 02/Jun/10 2nd
with Glyn
Glyn Davidson 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S

This is a great route but extremely serious. I agree with the comments made below, VS seems more likely. Lots and lots of suspect rock on this, accident waiting to happen. Topping out is a nightmare, stood on loose boulders and pulling on grass. Despite that, I'd say it's a contender for the best chimney route I've ever done.

with Ali
iceicebaby 29/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Without a doubt the most dangerously undergraded climb I have ever come across. Severe 4a for the second pitch?!?!?! What?!!!!!! Definitely some 4c moves and a scary situation to be in given that the rock is loose in places and very lichenous. Beware!

tubby two 29/Jul/09 Lead O/S

S 4b- dangerously undergraded. It's VS 4c (top pitch- not 4a), IF you can bridge, back and foot, climb lichenous slippy frictionless loose and flaky rock, and at times near vertical grass and ivy. It gets a star for the novel pinnacle and excellent line, but looses 2 because of the rock, lichen and other issues. I was gripped out of my tiny little skull on this and stacked it with gear, and it's 4 grades below what i can lead normally! If you're just leading severe- beware!!! S.

with Tinky
crossdressingrodney 17/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 17/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2, totally awesome. The topo in Scottish Rock is slightly wrong, the route starts up a chimney by a short grassy ramp and just right of a 10ft leaning pillar at the base of the crag, and the "ominously-poised" flake is at 5, not 15 metres.

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Voting
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