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Caff's 100 Ace E5s

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UserDateNotes
Steve Long 29 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The ring peg has long rotted. Good cams lower, and small sideways wire nearby.
 
Show beta
βeta: The ring peg has long rotted. Good cams lower, and small sideways wire nearby.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Steve Long 26 Aug 2nd Brilliant route but the groove after the crux was wet. Almost led onsight (and with no guidebook!) but the wet holds scuppered me despite bombproof gear by my head.
with Chris Parkin
Brilliant route but the groove after the crux was wet. Almost led onsight (and with no guidebook!) but the wet holds scuppered me despite bombproof gear by my head.
with Chris Parkin
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28 Jun, 2018 2nd
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 Lead
Ssebo 23 Jun, 2018 Lead β Half onsight half flash - did it with Donie's gear in place to half height.
Half onsight half flash - did it with Donie's gear in place to half height.
Misha 9 Jun, 2018 - Great route and in great condition at the moment - thanks to Tim Neill for cleaning it. Was going to try the E4 but couldn't work out how to get across into the crack without doing some heinously hard moves to went for this instead. A bit ambitious given I haven't been feeling fit and have only led on E3 so far this year. My style though - good holds, good gear and decent rests between the hard bits. The crux was a long move quite low down - took a few goes of climbing up and down from a rest to figure it out but ended up being fairly straightforward once I spotted a small undercut out left. The rest of it is good honest pulling and controlling the pump. Perfect! Not the hardest E5 around but no pushover either. Ramon finished up Mur y Niwl to the Bilberry Ledge, then the first pitch of Pinaclissima and the lanst pitch of Pinnacle Wall.
Great route and in great condition at the moment - thanks to Tim Neill for cleaning it. Was going to try the E4 but couldn't work out how to get across into the crack without doing some heinously hard moves to went for this instead. A bit ambitious given I haven't been feeling fit and have only led on E3 so far this year. My style though - good holds, good gear and decent rests between the hard bits. The crux was a long move quite low down - took a few goes of climbing up and down from a rest to figure it out but ended up being fairly straightforward once I spotted a small undercut out left. The rest of it is good honest pulling and controlling the pump. Perfect! Not the hardest E5 around but no pushover either. Ramon finished up Mur y Niwl to the Bilberry Ledge, then the first pitch of Pinaclissima and the lanst pitch of Pinnacle Wall.
Ramon Marin 9 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Such a good route. Pleased to have seconded this with one working arm. I don't I would have been able to lead it on the days as there were some panic lounges when my right arm gave out
with Misha
Such a good route. Pleased to have seconded this with one working arm. I don't I would have been able to lead it on the days as there were some panic lounges when my right arm gave out
with Misha
Hidden 23 May, 2018 Lead
Ed Booth 22 May, 2018 Lead O/S Great route when clean.
Great route when clean.
Hidden 22 May, 2018 Lead β
Adam Booth 22 May, 2018 2nd β
with Nick Dixon, Ed Booth
with Nick Dixon, Ed Booth
Alex Mason 18 May, 2018 Lead O/S Absolutely incredible. One of the best E5s in Wales. Cleaned by Tim Neill 10/5/18. The rock on this whole crag is fantastic.
Absolutely incredible. One of the best E5s in Wales. Cleaned by Tim Neill 10/5/18. The rock on this whole crag is fantastic.
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 6
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set