A tough and well-named proposition where technique and nerve will stand you in good stead.
1) 5a, 30m. Nip up the leftward slanting groove to gain the ledge. Climb diagonally right to gain another ledge. From the right-hand side of this, climb the wall above to belay on the next ledge.
2) 5a, 18m. Climb straight up the wall above on good holds and step left above the overlap into the groove. Climb this, then traverse right to the ledge.
3) 5a, 25m. Drop down 2m and traverse right to a ledge on the nose of the buttress. Climb rightwards and then head diagonally left past sloping ledges to a grassy terrace.
4) 4c, 40m. Move left on the ledge to climb a steep wall into a groove. This leads to long easy slabs which are followed to the Bilberry Ledge. © Rockfax
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