UKC

Rockfax Description
A tough and well-named route where technique and nerve will stand you in good stead. Can be lichenous.
1) 5a, 30m. Nip up the left-slanting groove to gain the ledge. Climb diagonally right to gain another ledge. From the right-hand side of this, climb the wall above to belay on the next ledge.
2) 5a, 18m. Head up the wall on good holds. Step left above the overlap into a groove. Climb this, then traverse right to a ledge.
3) 5a, 25m. Drop down 2m and traverse right to a ledge on the nose of the buttress. Move rightwards and then head diagonally left past sloping ledges to a grassy terrace.
4) 5a, 40m. Move left on the ledge to climb a steep wall into a groove. Climb the groove and easy slabs to the Bilberry Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

UK Lonely Leads , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Spencer Noble 22 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: We climbing it in two pitches with 50m ropes. Linking 1+2 then linking 3+4.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We climbing it in two pitches with 50m ropes. Linking 1+2 then linking 3+4.
Imke 4 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: What an adventure! Feels quite committing and bold, but sure is worth it. 3rd pitch is a bit odd
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What an adventure! Feels quite committing and bold, but sure is worth it. 3rd pitch is a bit odd

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 11
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zeitgeist

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carreg Bengam Bach)

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