23m.

Rockfax Description
A good route, but it is poorly protected until you reach the letter box at two-thirds height. Start as for 1000 Tons... and follow this to the spike. Then move up and right, past very poor gear, onto the wall to gain a prominent letter box - good small cams. Head up and slightly left to a bold finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
a very necky solo direct up from scare city, excellent climbing just no real gear!!

Tony Kay, Paul Pritchard 1988

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Bold Slate routes

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JamesWilliams 22 Jul Lead RP First E6. onsighted on the top rope had one more go to make sure I was super solid, then lead it. I think through the combination of slings and sky hook and wires out right, the flakes would probably hold though they are worryingly wobbly! once you get the the cam slots you can chill out.
First E6. onsighted on the top rope had one more go to make sure I was super solid, then lead it. I think through the combination of slings and sky hook and wires out right, the flakes would probably hold though they are worryingly wobbly! once you get the the cam slots you can chill out.
Rocky1339 23 Jun TR RP More like a 7a haha
More like a 7a haha
Hidden 15 Jun TR
Hidden 28 May TR
Hidden 2 Apr TR
spidey 23 Mar TR Quick go on top rope. Did all moves, flakes at start definitely move (not sure how long they have left). Keen to get back on it,
with Hazel
Quick go on top rope. Did all moves, flakes at start definitely move (not sure how long they have left). Keen to get back on it,
with Hazel
Schurcher 3 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
with Will James
with Will James
Hidden 12 Sep, 2018 Lead β
Tom McCabe 16 Jun, 2018 TR dog 1 fall leaving the flake, then found a way round going further right.
1 fall leaving the flake, then found a way round going further right.
JRJones 16 Jun, 2018 TR rpt
8PetrieC 16 Jun, 2018 TR
Hidden ?Sep, 2017 TR
Tom Osian Healy 9 Apr, 2017 TR
with Dad
with Dad
DaveThexton 12 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
Jacob Goodenough 24 Sep, 2016 TR O/S
with Ryan lock
with Ryan lock
James Beaumont 7 Jun, 2016 TR RP
with Zak Maynard
with Zak Maynard
Andy Peak 1 15 Apr, 2016 TR RP Did all the moves after a few tries, topped it twice clean,
Did all the moves after a few tries, topped it twice clean,
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Emma Reynolds 11 Jun, 2015 TR
kyaizawa 11 Jun, 2015 TR dog
wi11 31 May, 2015 TR β 1000 tonnes moves are harder and has a very suspect flake... Scare City section is great!
with Shunt
1000 tonnes moves are harder and has a very suspect flake... Scare City section is great!
with Shunt
jacob shieldhouse hadley 19 Mar, 2015 Lead RP really amazing route!!! bit run-out. in fading light no good ledges to procrastinate on!
with dad
really amazing route!!! bit run-out. in fading light no good ledges to procrastinate on!
with dad
jacob shieldhouse hadley 26 Jan, 2015 Lead dnf too dark
with dad
too dark
with dad
kyaizawa 27 Aug, 2014 TR dog Licked moves but sustained. Definitely thought the shared start with 1000 Tonnes was harder than the direct continuation which ultimately had great, enjoyable moves. Almost tempted to start up Fool's Gold, reverse the traverse of 1000 Tonnes and do the Scare City finish the moves are that good!
Licked moves but sustained. Definitely thought the shared start with 1000 Tonnes was harder than the direct continuation which ultimately had great, enjoyable moves. Almost tempted to start up Fool's Gold, reverse the traverse of 1000 Tonnes and do the Scare City finish the moves are that good!
oliverpcain ??, 2014 TR O/S
jacob shieldhouse hadley ??, 2014 TR O/S a while ago
with dad
a while ago
with dad
shed_hed 22 Apr, 2013 TR dog Last move felt absolutely horrible and desperate and ruins what is otherwise a good route of reasonably hard climbing between good rests.
Last move felt absolutely horrible and desperate and ruins what is otherwise a good route of reasonably hard climbing between good rests.
dswansonlow 22 Apr, 2013 TR RP
ianstevens 31 Mar, 2013 TR dnf
Hidden 19 Mar, 2013 TR dog
Keendan 16 Feb, 2013 Lead RP First E6. First time today. Toproped once the day before. Missed out the last 2m which felt very eliminate at that stage. I find the E5 bit much harder, the E6 bit is just a couple of very high feet. Great cam slot (3 cams !) at 2/3rds height. Used my new sky hook in earnest with a seperate rope for Nate to hold it down. Was a mighty faff for very little comfort. I think the route is reasonable safe which begs me to question the grade, but I can't say having not climbed one before. Thanks Hannah and everyone else for being up for this.
with Nathan Ling, hannah.beresford
First E6. First time today. Toproped once the day before. Missed out the last 2m which felt very eliminate at that stage. I find the E5 bit much harder, the E6 bit is just a couple of very high feet. Great cam slot (3 cams !) at 2/3rds height. Used my new sky hook in earnest with a seperate rope for Nate to hold it down. Was a mighty faff for very little comfort. I think the route is reasonable safe which begs me to question the grade, but I can't say having not climbed one before. Thanks Hannah and everyone else for being up for this.
with Nathan Ling, hannah.beresford
Keendan 15 Feb, 2013 TR β Solo with shunt. Got it clean first time today, although I had tried in the dark once...
Solo with shunt. Got it clean first time today, although I had tried in the dark once...
richiebongo 9 Sep, 2012 TR dog Desperate but somehow i still want to lead it at some time!
with Gwen Thomson, Jon Didymus
Desperate but somehow i still want to lead it at some time!
with Gwen Thomson, Jon Didymus
Michael Allday 17 Jun, 2012 Lead β Ground up 2nd attempt fell of the crux, the floor comes very close lol
Ground up 2nd attempt fell of the crux, the floor comes very close lol
vertically_challenged ?Jun, 2012 TR dog found it more difficult than everyone else has let on. Don't think it's one for short people like me. Stepping off the flake i found myself dynamically moving for a fairly small 2 finger crimp. I reckon with a good belayer you will just avoid groundfall after slings over the spikes at 20 ft.
found it more difficult than everyone else has let on. Don't think it's one for short people like me. Stepping off the flake i found myself dynamically moving for a fairly small 2 finger crimp. I reckon with a good belayer you will just avoid groundfall after slings over the spikes at 20 ft.
willoates 16 May, 2012 Lead RP Headpoint, first E6, chuffed. The climbing on the wall is never desperate, good route.
Headpoint, first E6, chuffed. The climbing on the wall is never desperate, good route.
Owen_P ??, 2012 -
Hidden 23 Oct, 2011 Lead RP
barni 15 Aug, 2011 Lead RP Throw a top rope on it and went down pretty easy had a second go just to much sure it was not a pluke. went home got a pad and lead it
Throw a top rope on it and went down pretty easy had a second go just to much sure it was not a pluke. went home got a pad and lead it
Ed morris 29 Jun, 2011 TR One cheeky fall off the bit above the flake. The climbing up to the flake is the hardest.
with stefan
One cheeky fall off the bit above the flake. The climbing up to the flake is the hardest.
with stefan
farmus21 3 Apr, 2011 TR Great climbing but not sure about the lead.
with Sam Radcliffe
Great climbing but not sure about the lead.
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 3 Apr, 2011 TR O/S not ballsy enough for the lead. not very hard climbing. but not very good rock quality.
with james G
not ballsy enough for the lead. not very hard climbing. but not very good rock quality.
with james G
Hidden 3 Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 6 Jul, 2010 TR dog
Lloyders 25 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
with Dave L
with Dave L
hamer89 9 May, 2009 Lead RP abit dodge i remember
abit dodge i remember
mattyork2 8 May, 2009 TR rpt 'Une Retro Flash'
with hamer89
'Une Retro Flash'
with hamer89
Brown 3 Jan, 2009 TR O/S
with Harry Westaway
with Harry Westaway
barni 12 Oct, 2008 TR O/S
with Shoulders
with Shoulders
HeatherF 17 Aug, 2008 TR
with Jonny
with Jonny
Gibson27 ??, 2008 TR I have never had such sore toes and legs after trying this!
I have never had such sore toes and legs after trying this!
Ed Booth 26 Jul, 2007 Lead Flashed it on a top rope then led it, nice one!!!!! This would be a good first E6 on sight i think.
with Ioan Doyle
Flashed it on a top rope then led it, nice one!!!!! This would be a good first E6 on sight i think.
with Ioan Doyle
tumbling wizard ?Apr, 2007 Lead
Dringo ??, 2006 -
mattyork2 ?Nov, 2005 TR RP
with Alistair Robertson
with Alistair Robertson
rayles 19 Sep, 2004 TR O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Colin Edwards 19 Apr, 1997 TR RP
pete johnson 9 Oct, 1994 TR
with Steve Monks, Steve Findlay
with Steve Monks, Steve Findlay
Mark Kemball 27 Aug, 1993 TR
Thefly ?Feb, 1992 TR
chrisdavies ??, 1990 TR
Trevor Hodgson ??, 1987 Solo O/S
Trevor Hodgson ??, 1987 Solo O/S
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 15
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set