Rockfax Description
A good route, but it is poorly protected until you reach the letter box at two-thirds height. Start to the right of a thin flake by a blunt arete and gain the flake on the left. Layback to the spike then move up and right, past very poor gear, onto the wall. Climb this to a letter box - good cams - and head up and slightly left to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
a very necky solo direct up from scare city, excellent climbing just no real gear!!

Tony Kay, Paul Pritchard 1988

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Bold Slate routes.

Hidden ?/Sep/17 TR
Tom Osian Healy 09/Apr/17 TR
with Dad
DaveThexton 12/Oct/16 Lead RP
Jacob Goodenough 24/Sep/16 TR O/S
with Ryan lock
James Beaumont 07/Jun/16 TR RP
with Zak Maynard
Hidden 15/Apr/16 TR RP
Hidden ??/2016 -
Emma Reynolds 11/Jun/15 TR
kyaizawa 11/Jun/15 TR dog
wi11 31/May/15 TR β

1000 tonnes moves are harder and has a very suspect flake... Scare City section is great!

with Shunt
jacob shieldhouse hadley 19/Mar/15 Lead RP

really amazing route!!! bit run-out. in fading light no good ledges to procrastinate on!

with dad
jacob shieldhouse hadley 26/Jan/15 Lead dnf

too dark

with dad
kyaizawa 27/Aug/14 TR dog

Licked moves but sustained. Definitely thought the shared start with 1000 Tonnes was harder than the direct continuation which ultimately had great, enjoyable moves. Almost tempted to start up Fool's Gold, reverse the traverse of 1000 Tonnes and do the Scare City finish the moves are that good!

oliverpcain ??/2014 TR O/S
jacob shieldhouse hadley ??/2014 TR O/S

a while ago

with dad
shed_hed 22/Apr/13 TR dog

Last move felt absolutely horrible and desperate and ruins what is otherwise a good route of reasonably hard climbing between good rests.

dswansonlow 22/Apr/13 TR RP
ianstevens 31/Mar/13 TR dnf
Hidden 19/Mar/13 TR dog
Keendan 16/Feb/13 Lead RP

First E6. First time today. Toproped once the day before. Missed out the last 2m which felt very eliminate at that stage. I find the E5 bit much harder, the E6 bit is just a couple of very high feet. Great cam slot (3 cams !) at 2/3rds height. Used my new sky hook in earnest with a seperate rope for Nate to hold it down. Was a mighty faff for very little comfort. I think the route is reasonable safe which begs me to question the grade, but I can't say having not climbed one before. Thanks Hannah and everyone else for being up for this.

with Nathan Ling, Hannah
Keendan 15/Feb/13 TR β

Solo with shunt. Got it clean first time today, although I had tried in the dark once...

richiebongo 09/Sep/12 TR dog

Desperate but somehow i still want to lead it at some time!

with Gwen Thomson, Jon Didymus
Michael Allday 17/Jun/12 Lead β

Ground up 2nd attempt fell of the crux, the floor comes very close lol

vertically_challenged ?/Jun/12 TR dog

found it more difficult than everyone else has let on. Don't think it's one for short people like me. Stepping off the flake i found myself dynamically moving for a fairly small 2 finger crimp. I reckon with a good belayer you will just avoid groundfall after slings over the spikes at 20 ft.

willoates 16/May/12 Lead RP

Headpoint, first E6, chuffed. The climbing on the wall is never desperate, good route.

with Luke
Owen_P ??/2012 -
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead RP
barni 15/Aug/11 Lead RP

Throw a top rope on it and went down pretty easy had a second go just to much sure it was not a pluke. went home got a pad and lead it

Ed morris 29/Jun/11 TR

One cheeky fall off the bit above the flake. The climbing up to the flake is the hardest.

with stefan
farmus21 03/Apr/11 TR

Great climbing but not sure about the lead.

with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 03/Apr/11 TR O/S

not ballsy enough for the lead. not very hard climbing. but not very good rock quality.

with james G
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 06/Jul/10 TR dog
Lloyders 25/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Dave L
mattyork2 08/May/09 TR rpt

'Une Retro Flash'

Brown 03/Jan/09 TR O/S
with Harry Westaway
barni 12/Oct/08 TR O/S
with Shoulders
HeatherF 17/Aug/08 TR
with Jonny
Gibson27 ??/2008 TR

I have never had such sore toes and legs after trying this!

Ed Booth 26/Jul/07 Lead

Flashed it on a top rope then led it, nice one!!!!! This would be a good first E6 on sight i think.

with Ioan Doyle
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/07 Lead
Dringo ??/2006 -
mattyork2 ?/Nov/05 TR RP
with Alistair Robertson
rapidrich 19/Sep/04 TR O/S
with Rob
Colin Edwards 19/Apr/97 TR RP
pete johnson 09/Oct/94 TR
with Steve Monks, Steve Findlay
Mark Kemball 27/Aug/93 TR
Thefly ?/Feb/92 TR
chrisdavies ??/1990 TR
Trevor Hodgson ??/1987 Solo O/S
Trevor Hodgson ??/1987 Solo O/S
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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 15
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set