Rockfax Description
Nowhere near as bad as its name would suggest! The curving line of tufas just right of the large yew tree provides some big holds that vanish tantalisingly close to the lower-off. It can be linked to Videodrome at 7c, direct up the wall. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Burnell 1992

Ticklists: Very good routes in the UK.

birks3746 23/Sep Lead dog

Bottled the last high foot of the last move and grabbed the chains. Everything else was dialed. Arghhhhh. Total punter.

JacobCrisp 19/Sep Lead β
with Doug
OllieBrkr 02/Sep Lead RP

Strong powerful painful reaches with a strong side-pull to finish.

with MTL
thrutch 27/Aug Lead dog
with Dave Ormorod
Duncan Campbell 15/Aug Lead β
Alimitch 29/Jul Lead RP
with Fraser
birks3746 25/Jul Lead dog

Another dogging session after being ill for the previous week

Adam_42 23/Jul Lead dog
with sammo247, Tom Chivers, Alice Brooker
kellyb (velvet.mustard) 13/Jul TR dnf

Worked lower moves. Then the heavens opened.

with Ed, Alice, Tom
nathanlee 11/Jul Lead rpt

Not for imre

with Imre Von Schrieber
Hidden 09/Jul Lead O/S
sparkass 09/Jul Lead O/S
with Cal Reid
benka 09/Jul Lead rpt
with steve h
Hidden 08/Jul Lead O/S
1poundSOCKS 08/Jul Lead RP

Put a quickdraw in the chains and then grabbed the quickdraw. Felt like a cheat, so did it again properly. Pumpy climbing.

MTL 08/Jul Lead O/S

As the warm-up. It did its job! Short but a great route.

with Nick Weightman
spalice 05/Jul Lead RP

1rp. Hard!!!

Hidden 03/Jul Lead rpt
birks3746 02/Jul Lead dog
Jwatson 02/Jul Lead
Will Hunt 01/Jul Lead O/S

If you grab the chain, you haven't done it!

Rob Rocket 25/Nov/16 Lead dog

Bottled last moves to chain...again.

with Matt Wright, Dave Parton
Hidden 06/Nov/16 Lead RP
Scooter Young 05/Nov/16 TR
john lynch 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S

brilliant fun

with Lewis Andrew
Paul Figg 23/Oct/16 Lead
with Rachel Antill
Hidden 15/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Tophe 14/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Nina
dprctr 13/Oct/16 Lead RP

2nd attempt. Fun

with Mel Adams, Roy Goddard
chiverstom 13/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Kevin Dewhirst
Rob McGurk 12/Oct/16 Lead dog

Arrgh. Came off on the last hold.

Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Rob McGurk 06/Oct/16 Lead dog

Had two goes: dogged a lot on the first, but the second went pretty well. Clipping the lower off is the only problem I envisage next time!

ninastirrup 02/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/16 Lead rpt
samrad 18/Sep/16 Lead rpt

such a quality route.

with Richard
Charlie Zephyr Booth 11/Sep/16 AltLd
with dave armstrong, tim millen
Hidden 02/Sep/16 Lead dog
Emilysaladfingers 02/Sep/16 -

Good line but sting in the tail clipping the chains! Had a lovely first climb up it but fell at chains, then climbed it like sh*t but managed to get up it! One that I will never do again!!

with helen, pete D
MichaelGallimore 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
JenShelley 13/Aug/16 -
with Mike
chiverstom 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Dan Parkes
Scott Quinn 05/Aug/16 Lead RP
Chris Wright 05/Aug/16 Lead
tunnah 03/Aug/16 Lead RP

clipping the chains is the crux

chiverstom 01/Aug/16 Lead O/S
The Grist 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Tim Whitaker
Hidden 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt
r_o_b_h2 03/Jul/16 Lead dog

start was soaking, good climbing though

with Chris Moore
CMoore 03/Jul/16 Lead β
with Rob Howell, Scott
Rob Rocket 26/Feb/16 TR
with Dave Parton
Tom.Priestley 01/Nov/15 TR dog

Still not massive enough, got pumped at the top.

BRoe 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Ash
samrad 30/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with ben
Hidden 17/Sep/15 TR RP
petegunn 17/Sep/15 Lead
with Davina
Harry Chaplin 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Rob Rocket 08/Sep/15 TR
with Dave Parton
nickmoulden 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with zoe bidula
penny.orr 23/Aug/15 Lead

Great route. I had too little skin or energy to finish this one off, but that means I get to climb it again! Last move is a bit of a shocker when pumped!

chiverstom 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Alice
cobes 20/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Alan Cassidy
gav 18/Aug/15 Lead RP

3rd go, grabbing chain to finish. Got to last bolt on first 2 attempts but couldn't do the last move.

jwdickinson25 18/Aug/15 2nd
with gav
ambrooker 15/Aug/15 Lead RP

2nd go

with Tom
D.Russell 12/Aug/15 Lead
with Ally
Scooter Young 11/Aug/15 Lead RP
with J
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead dog
david morse 25/Jul/15 Lead RP

Couldn't clip the chains first time. Desperate!

with Mark C, Megan, KT
Joedt 23/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Mat Welsh 23/Jul/15 Lead β

Good tufa climbing with nice finishing moves. Sharp tufa !

with Warren
tunnahr 19/Jul/15 2nd RP
tommccluskey 19/Jul/15 Lead RP

Fell on the last move on first go the found a fist jam rest which made it much easier

Lessworkmoreclimbing 18/Jul/15 Lead dog

Rested on a few bolts, but did the sequence to the chains first try, never reached chains before, progress!

with Jonathan, Kev
chiverstom 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alice
ambrooker 16/Jul/15 Lead dog

dropped it at the last move!

with Tom
John 'B' Hutchinson 11/Jul/15 Lead β
with Alan Cassidy, Steven Alexander
Rob Rocket 01/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Dave Parton
Leedearden ??/2015 Lead RP
Joedt 05/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Andy Chambers 22/Sep/14 Lead rpt
dannyboy83 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 19/Aug/14 TR

Top roped 3 times. Getting closer to working out to clip anchors, using high pinch and getting feet up and right can now let go and touch draws!!

with Kev
benka 18/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Lloyders 17/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Pete
wintermute 09/Aug/14 Lead RP


with Sam Radcliffe, farmus21
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead
Rob Rocket 05/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Joe Holden
Andy Chambers 05/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Rob Humphries
rikbattye 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
farmus21 20/Jul/14 Lead β
with Sam Radcliffe
stuart34 13/Jul/14 Lead
with Doug the thug
Hidden 07/Jul/14 Lead dog
steveleahy 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with George Hartley
William jackson ?/May/14 Lead RP
with Jesse Reese
stemill 12/Oct/13 TR dog

Ran out of steam for the final move.

Tom.Priestley 01/Oct/13 TR dnf

Too steep and strong for me, will be back when i'm feeling massive.

yarbles 05/Sep/13 Lead
with Francis
NDD 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with anna gilyeat
James Oswald 20/Aug/13 Lead dog

Tough, the bottom was soaked!

with Andy Hobson
Goose4 10/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Simon Bennet
nathanlee 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Dom Lee
dominic lee 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead β
tomhull 07/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Jesse Reece, Chris Gore
Paul Figg 03/Aug/13 Lead β
Malcolm Bass 03/Aug/13 Lead RP
tomhull 28/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Matt Foot, Will Jackson, Dave Nicholl
tomhull 22/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Leah Crane, Will Jackson, james stokes, Liam Lonsdale
liamlonsdale 22/Jul/13 Lead rpt
johang 08/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Chris Swanepoel
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead dog
Glenn Sutcliffe 27/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Woody
JanBella 25/Jun/13 TR RP

few times on top rope need to lead it now

Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead β
Rachel S 21/Jun/13 Lead dog


with Cal
BoTTo 20/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Mike Elliot
cooperman 18/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Chris Rabs
BoTTo 17/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Mike Elliot
Lessworkmoreclimbing 12/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Worked out a sequence near ground that I can do easily. Used left undercling to get right side pull snd then feet up to get jug. Higher up used pinch on left tufa to get right tufa. At top touched "clipping hold" and fell off. Kev says it's a pinch but I can't get it very well, very marginal side pull. Couldnt work out how to clip anchors off it, will need perfect feet and more bravery!

with Kev
craig naylor 09/Jun/13 Lead RP

had lead it before this time but forgot to log it

MarkRoe 09/Jun/13 Lead β
with Peter Holder, Craig Naylor
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
thebigfriendlymoose 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Stephen
James Malloch 26/May/13 Lead RP

Got to the last move with frozen hands on the flash attempt, went easily the second time once I was warm. Great route!

with Robert Humphries
Footy564 13/May/13 TR O/S
with James stokes
cooperman 12/May/13 Lead dog
with Nick Wharton
John Kettle 07/May/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Timo Austino 04/May/13 Lead dog

fell off clipping the chain.. gutted!

with Dave Bart
jesse rees ?/May/13 Lead RP
Footy564 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Frith Wood
Scraggadoo 28/Feb/13 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 -
with Helena Robinson
Danny Crump 14/Oct/12 Lead
Peter Reynolds ?/Oct/12 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead
GPN 16/Aug/12 Lead
tomhull 13/Aug/12 Lead rpt

7 laps, 1 lead then 2 sets of 3 on top rope to get my limestone psyche back

Lord_ash2000 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
cooperman 08/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Chris Rabs
Hidden 02/Aug/12 TR β
samrad 15/Jul/12 Lead β
Natalie feather ?/Jun/12 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
innes ??/2012 Lead O/S
garburn 19/Nov/11 Lead
with Ben Robinson
Hidden 29/Aug/11 TR dnf
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead RP
Matt Rowat 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Hidden 14/Jul/11 TR
daviesxxx 13/Jul/11 2nd
steveleahy 13/Jul/11 Lead β
Lord_ash2000 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jan/11 2nd β
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Seymore Butt ??/2011 -
datoon 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with K
khawk 05/Sep/10 Lead dog
with DT
uptown 05/Sep/10 Lead β
with Sean_J
Sean_J 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead dog
Rob1988 20/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Cal
tim newton 17/Aug/10 Lead dog
with harri melhuish
tomhull 11/Aug/10 Lead

pumpy warm up

tomhull 31/Jul/10 Lead rpt

first time this year, cracking route

with Ben Scraggs
SMc 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good route, good holds, deceptively steep

with Anne
craig matheson ??/2010 -
tomhull 28/Sep/09 Lead β

awesome. how is this climb not polished to oblivion

with sally wheatley, ben robinson
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead
kevg 12/Sep/09 Lead
with Fraser
Fraser 12/Sep/09 Lead β

Very continental. At probably not much more than a dozen moves however, it's about a third of the length it should be. Good job from the trusty beta-monkey.

with Kev
JLS 12/Sep/09 TR dog
with Pete R. & Burnsie
Hidden 12/Sep/09 TR dog
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
Martin Davies 20/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Good strenuous pumpy climb, lots of undercuts. Grabbed chain at top.

with Ollie Lister
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Aug/09 Lead RP
buzby78 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S


with Mhairi
mhairi thorburn 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

quite pumped, knackered after 2 days climbing. awesome route, with the sun on our backs it was almost like spain!

with buzby
oliverthomp 13/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Rory O'Donall
jfreeman 27/Jun/09 Lead rpt
bfreeman 27/Jun/09 Lead β
with Jon Freeman
liamlonsdale 29/Apr/09 2nd dnf

shit me ... not a good first route.

with Dave Gill
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Tom Phillips 14/Oct/08 TR dog
with Andy
Hidden 22/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Rich Kirby 21/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Ash & Ant
kristian ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Brown 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
morganator 17/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Graham Cooper
Martin Davies 15/Jul/08 Lead dog
with Matt Murg
riddle 03/Jul/08 Lead dog

good start, powerful and reachy top.

with Dan Smith
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
John Kettle 26/May/08 Lead RP
ewen 26/May/08 Lead RP
middlevern ?/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with Mike Blood
galpinos 16/Feb/08 TR dog

Bolt to Bolt as warm up

with Nick V
John Kettle 06/Sep/07 Lead dog
ewen 06/Sep/07 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/07 Lead dog
C coldwell-storry ?/Apr/07 Lead β
with Steve Welch
Hidden 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 13/Oct/06 TR dog
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
derico ?/Sep/06 Lead RP
with Dave J
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden User 56 17/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Ian Patterson
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead β
mattnuttall 16/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Ian Vickers
Dave Douglas ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd RP
daviesxxx ??/2005 Lead

great climb

with Dave Allen
robyn1 ??/2005 -
Cassidy 01/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Craig McCallum, Bob, Lynne Malcolm
Henners 01/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Neil Buzby
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Andy Hyslop
Dave Musgrove ??/2003 Lead

Think I red-pointed this but didn't keep a record at the time.

nige 20/Aug/00 Lead RP
with dave ormerod
Roget 30/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/Jun/00 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/99 Lead β
Hidden 27/Jul/99 Lead rpt
DavidEvans ?/Jun/99 TR
with William Wilson
Rich Kirby ?/Oct/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/97 Lead rpt
Glenn Sutcliffe 24/Aug/97 2nd
nai 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with PrestonGang
Hidden 19/Jul/97 Lead
ste_d 18/May/97 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 18/May/97 Lead O/S
Hammy 10/Oct/96 2nd
with Pete Robinson
sadams 15/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
Mike Owen 08/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
sheppy 12/Jul/96 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 07/Jul/96 Lead β
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Jari Pollenen
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1996 Lead
with Tony Burnell
Hidden User 56 ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Aaron Tonks
Hidden 29/Oct/95 Lead RP
djmarko75 ?/Sep/95 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 19/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden ?/Sep/94 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Aug/94 Lead
Graeme Smithy ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with dad
The Reaper 31/Jul/94 TR dnf
John Southworth ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1994 Lead

done several times

Steve Crowe 23/Oct/93 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 20/Oct/93 Lead
whispering nic ?/Sep/93 -
with slow hand nick
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High 7a
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High 6c+
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High 6c
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High 6b+
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Votes cast 79
Votes cast 82
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set