Rockfax Description
II, 330m. A true Envers classic with superb climbing throughout. The route starts pretty much at the lowest point on the face, just to the left of a series of small horizontal overlaps. There are more bolted belays than described here so the pitches can be broken up differently.
1) 6a. Follow a thin slab and then a thin flake to a small notch.
2) 5c. Go straight up for a couple of metres then traverse right, under a small roof, and follow a corner up to easy ground which leads left to a belay.
3) 5c. Go up the amazing layback crack which leads left to a belay in a notch.
4) 5b. Head rightwards up the slab.
5) 6a. Climb the corner to the right and make a technical traverse left to reach a vertical crack. This leads to a hanging belay.
6) 6a+. Step left off the belay and climb the technical finger-crack to reach a slab. Follow this left to a corner which leads to a stance under a roof.
7) 5c. Follow the superb slab on the right then a short corner.
8) 5b. Go left up the flake-crack then a series of easy corners.
9) 4b. Scramble up easily to a notch.
10) 6a+. Move left and climb the stunning slab (protected by three bolts) to reach a corner on the right. Climb this to reach the Tour Rouge summit ridge.
11) 4c. Climb easily up the ridge to just below the summit. The route officially ends here but tagging the summit is easy enough.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

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Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+), Alpine Dreamz

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Rossco-p 27 Jun Show βeta
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Yunghui 13 Sep - Pitch8
Pitch8
Hidden 10 Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Sep AltLd dnf
feilx 15 Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Aug 2nd
Mackinclimb 8 Aug Lead dnf First 5 pitches only. First route after a long drive and a late start! Good though
with Matt Rowbottom
First 5 pitches only. First route after a long drive and a late start! Good though
with Matt Rowbottom
Hidden 4 Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Aug AltLd
Martin Bagshaw 8 Jul AltLd O/S E3ish is probably about right. Had at least a couple (British) 6a moves on it, pleased not to fall off.
E3ish is probably about right. Had at least a couple (British) 6a moves on it, pleased not to fall off.
islandlynx 8 Jul AltLd Some pretty hard moves on this, British 6a, so 6a+ is undergrading IMO. Fell then French freed the move off the glacier and another on a slabby traverse. Nice climbing but doesnt follow an obvious line. First route of the trip and we going slowly. 11 hours up and down. 5-7 guide time!!
Some pretty hard moves on this, British 6a, so 6a+ is undergrading IMO. Fell then French freed the move off the glacier and another on a slabby traverse. Nice climbing but doesnt follow an obvious line. First route of the trip and we going slowly. 11 hours up and down. 5-7 guide time!!
markalmack 1 Jul AltLd O/S First route in the alps. 6a+ feels tricky here. Some bits felt a bit like english 6a
with Trouble Bird
First route in the alps. 6a+ feels tricky here. Some bits felt a bit like english 6a
with Trouble Bird
Katekeltie 1 Jul AltLd O/S Very enjoyable, tricky for 6a+ especially with boiling feet in hot temps!
Very enjoyable, tricky for 6a+ especially with boiling feet in hot temps!
iainballantyne 28 Jun AltLd dnf Massive sandbag! Backed off the final "6a+" pitch (mallions in place) as searing heat, sandbaged slabs and Scottish climbers don't mix well....
Massive sandbag! Backed off the final "6a+" pitch (mallions in place) as searing heat, sandbaged slabs and Scottish climbers don't mix well....
WillHempstead 28 Jun AltLd dnf We took this as a great opportunity to test our aiding skills. Unfortunately you do actually have to free parts of the 6a+ slab, which really shut us down
with Rob Giddy , iainballantyne
We took this as a great opportunity to test our aiding skills. Unfortunately you do actually have to free parts of the 6a+ slab, which really shut us down
with Rob Giddy , iainballantyne
Robertgiddy 28 Jun AltLd dnf A lot of aid was used to not get up this... defeated by top "6a+" pitch. The sand-baged-ness sorta took away from the enjoyment a bit.
A lot of aid was used to not get up this... defeated by top "6a+" pitch. The sand-baged-ness sorta took away from the enjoyment a bit.
Rossco-p 27 Jun 2nd O/S Brilliant route throughout
with Paul Swail , kp1
Brilliant route throughout
with Paul Swail , kp1
Hidden 27 Jun 2nd
Duncan Campbell 17 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Mega. Led evens. We pulled on all the fixed ropes low down which I presume are there because the snow slopes have dropped. Looked like they would be harder than 6a to free and at 7am a harsh warm up! Really great climbing all th way up this. Thought the two 6a+ pitches were quite cheeky, the lower one especially so.
Mega. Led evens. We pulled on all the fixed ropes low down which I presume are there because the snow slopes have dropped. Looked like they would be harder than 6a to free and at 7am a harsh warm up! Really great climbing all th way up this. Thought the two 6a+ pitches were quite cheeky, the lower one especially so.
HeatherF 17 Sep, 2018 AltLd One of the better routes I’ve done at the Envers!
One of the better routes I’ve done at the Envers!
HeatherF 17 Sep, 2018 AltLd One of the better routes I’ve done at the Envers!
One of the better routes I’ve done at the Envers!
timozheng 26 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
LucaC 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Even pitches.
with John
Even pitches.
with John
williap 15 Aug, 2018 2nd First 6-pitches only
with Jase
First 6-pitches only
with Jase
Seán Fortune 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd One of the best routes of the trip. Amazing climbing, particularly the slab on pitch 10. Made all the better as we had to return to complete it, after Ryan dropped his shoe off pitch 3 the day before and we had to bail! Led 4,5,6 & 10,11.
with Ryan
One of the best routes of the trip. Amazing climbing, particularly the slab on pitch 10. Made all the better as we had to return to complete it, after Ryan dropped his shoe off pitch 3 the day before and we had to bail! Led 4,5,6 & 10,11.
with Ryan
davkeo 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Pulled on the fixed ropes at the very start to get established on the pitch proper. I imagine these have been put in place due to level of the glacier dropping & that section wasn’t part of the original route. 2 parties were also behind us waiting to get started so I thought speed over style was fair. Looks like 6b ish slab moves. Pitch was superb thereafter, as was the whole route. Probably the best Iv done in the area. Pitches before & after the crux were brilliant. Grades are stiff, as expressed on here. In general, 5c felt E1, 6a felt E2 & the 6a+ felt E3. Did the top pitch of Dracula instead of the p10 slab. Team ahead was rappelling down & pointed us towards it saying ‘it was the crux’. Should have double checked the topo. I had been wondering what a 6c slab was like & now I know! Was extremely hard to see the best way forward & ended up a bit boxed before realising I needed to b further left. Jumped back down, grabbing a bolt, to the last rest spot. Got it next go but it was desperate, heart in mouth stuff & the climbing kept going almost to the belay.
with Conor Murphy
Pulled on the fixed ropes at the very start to get established on the pitch proper. I imagine these have been put in place due to level of the glacier dropping & that section wasn’t part of the original route. 2 parties were also behind us waiting to get started so I thought speed over style was fair. Looks like 6b ish slab moves. Pitch was superb thereafter, as was the whole route. Probably the best Iv done in the area. Pitches before & after the crux were brilliant. Grades are stiff, as expressed on here. In general, 5c felt E1, 6a felt E2 & the 6a+ felt E3. Did the top pitch of Dracula instead of the p10 slab. Team ahead was rappelling down & pointed us towards it saying ‘it was the crux’. Should have double checked the topo. I had been wondering what a 6c slab was like & now I know! Was extremely hard to see the best way forward & ended up a bit boxed before realising I needed to b further left. Jumped back down, grabbing a bolt, to the last rest spot. Got it next go but it was desperate, heart in mouth stuff & the climbing kept going almost to the belay.
with Conor Murphy
Dan dan Spiezer 3 Aug, 2018 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2018 -
James Mulhall ?Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S What a route! Highly recommended and highly sandbagged. I led the first four pitches, with the 5b slab maybe feeling the hardest out of those?!?!
with Ciaran Curran, EoghanCun
What a route! Highly recommended and highly sandbagged. I led the first four pitches, with the 5b slab maybe feeling the hardest out of those?!?!
with Ciaran Curran, EoghanCun
EoghanCun ?Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
RebeccaPickles 28 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf Felt sick so had to bail after pitch 8. Very good climbing - but much harder than 6a+ if you don't pull on the slings that have been left there. Apparently the lower 6a+ pitch is 6b+ in the German guidebook of the area... and I would have to agree wth it
with Brant Rumberger
Felt sick so had to bail after pitch 8. Very good climbing - but much harder than 6a+ if you don't pull on the slings that have been left there. Apparently the lower 6a+ pitch is 6b+ in the German guidebook of the area... and I would have to agree wth it
with Brant Rumberger
shah 13 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
rowlandh 13 Jul, 2018 2nd
with shah
with shah
sroelants 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd dnf Phil fell in pitch 6, getting his foot stuck in a crack mid-fall and badly spraining it...
Phil fell in pitch 6, getting his foot stuck in a crack mid-fall and badly spraining it...
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Stickle Tarn 21 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd
seanhendo123 3 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Absolutely quality route. Tough at the grade....not a true onsight as had previously done first 2 pitches......
with Lamb
Absolutely quality route. Tough at the grade....not a true onsight as had previously done first 2 pitches......
with Lamb
Lamb 3 Aug, 2017 2nd dog Fell out of the excellent layback crack low down. And jugged final slab pitch for time. Clean on the rest. Felt like hard graft, probably about E3. https://craiglamb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/chamonix-summer-2017.html
Fell out of the excellent layback crack low down. And jugged final slab pitch for time. Clean on the rest. Felt like hard graft, probably about E3. https://craiglamb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/chamonix-summer-2017.html
jamieevans ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Freshprintce ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks ?Jul, 2017 AltLd Couple of really hard moves, pulled on a bolt twice.
with Kate
Couple of really hard moves, pulled on a bolt twice.
with Kate
Steve Woollard 25 Jun, 2017 -
with Andy
with Andy
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Hidden 2 Aug, 2016 AltLd
hlegge 13 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Best route of the season. absolutely class. Swung leads with me starting. possibly not worth doing the last grade 4 pitch as the summit you end up on is the same quality as the top of the last 6a pitch and is a bit of a faff with ropes when abbing back off.
Best route of the season. absolutely class. Swung leads with me starting. possibly not worth doing the last grade 4 pitch as the summit you end up on is the same quality as the top of the last 6a pitch and is a bit of a faff with ropes when abbing back off.
tcn_2002 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd
ian d f 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd dnf Stopped 2 / 3 pitches from top due to time and partners' foot pain. Some hard slabs on this one!
Stopped 2 / 3 pitches from top due to time and partners' foot pain. Some hard slabs on this one!
onlyfoddington 3 Aug, 2015 2nd dnf Had set a time to begin abbing down by and did not reach the top in time. In retrospect we had more time but I was pretty dead. I had been making the most of the available tat but was still struggling on the slabs.
Had set a time to begin abbing down by and did not reach the top in time. In retrospect we had more time but I was pretty dead. I had been making the most of the available tat but was still struggling on the slabs.
pearson9596 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd dnf Had to get down to pick up andy
with ian d f
Had to get down to pick up andy
with ian d f
Hidden 28 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Paul Collins 26 Jul, 2015 AltLd Brilliant route, some great pitches ****
Brilliant route, some great pitches ****
liamo333 26 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 23 Jul, 2015 AltLd
AnnaBacklund ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead p. 1, 3, 5, 6, 8 and 10. Had to hang and rest my head on the dalle à knobs...
Lead p. 1, 3, 5, 6, 8 and 10. Had to hang and rest my head on the dalle à knobs...
Hidden 22 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Mihkel 21 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Nik: P 1,3,6,8. Me: P 2,4,5,7,9,10,11. An outstanding route, very sustained - almost every pitch E1 or E2, crux prob warrants E3. Some brilliant climbing, particularly the slab on P10. The final pitch, which Nik (sensibly?) backed off a few metres into, should be 4c when dry but was a verglassed & snowy battle and one of the hardest pitches in the end - I topped out piss-wrapped, bloodied and with only microwires and a screwgate left on my harness, great fun. 9.5 hrs. Rap descent.
Nik: P 1,3,6,8. Me: P 2,4,5,7,9,10,11. An outstanding route, very sustained - almost every pitch E1 or E2, crux prob warrants E3. Some brilliant climbing, particularly the slab on P10. The final pitch, which Nik (sensibly?) backed off a few metres into, should be 4c when dry but was a verglassed & snowy battle and one of the hardest pitches in the end - I topped out piss-wrapped, bloodied and with only microwires and a screwgate left on my harness, great fun. 9.5 hrs. Rap descent.
JonnoP 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Chad123 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd Classic route with some memorable pitches. Found it much tougher than bienvenue with some really sustained pitches. The crux pitch felt E3 to me, much tougher than 6a+ And the first pitch is a tough warm up. The 6a pitch below the crux one is superbly delicate and exposed. Did 8/11 pitches before rain stopped play.....
with JonnoP, Rik
Classic route with some memorable pitches. Found it much tougher than bienvenue with some really sustained pitches. The crux pitch felt E3 to me, much tougher than 6a+ And the first pitch is a tough warm up. The 6a pitch below the crux one is superbly delicate and exposed. Did 8/11 pitches before rain stopped play.....
with JonnoP, Rik
katy_abra ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Assya
with Assya
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
DaveMo 28 Aug, 2013 AltLd dnf rain. bailed on final pitch. Jan was leading and had to downclimb.
with wilbobaggins, Jan
rain. bailed on final pitch. Jan was leading and had to downclimb.
with wilbobaggins, Jan
monsteratt 28 Jul, 2013 AltLd dnf Great rock although only did first three pitches after sluggish start from the first train up. Will be back to finish off!
with Nick Whimster
Great rock although only did first three pitches after sluggish start from the first train up. Will be back to finish off!
with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 28 Jul, 2013 AltLd dnf being lazy, should have sacked off the train back to do the whole route.
being lazy, should have sacked off the train back to do the whole route.
pauldrew 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd
pete johnson ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
jcw ??, 2013 -
walts4 ??, 2013 -
Chris Sansum 17 Sep, 2012 AltLd dnf 1st climb of the trip. Decided to ab down rather than miss dinner after completing 8 of the 11 pitches! Great route though.
1st climb of the trip. Decided to ab down rather than miss dinner after completing 8 of the 11 pitches! Great route though.
Petar Samkov 14 Aug, 2012 Lead It has everything you can ask for . Dont miss this one
with Iliqn Kinov
It has everything you can ask for . Dont miss this one
with Iliqn Kinov
Tom Livingstone 31 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S smashed it!
with Ollie B
smashed it!
with Ollie B
Ollie B 31 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Brilliant
with T.Livinstone
Brilliant
with T.Livinstone
Tom Campbell ?Jul, 2012 -
Adam Coles ?Jul, 2012 -
with hilty
with hilty
hilty ?Jul, 2012 -
hilty ?Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
hilty ?Jun, 2012 AltLd Great climb, last of the trip! Partner sent his belay to the glacier after last pitch so fun abseil down.
Great climb, last of the trip! Partner sent his belay to the glacier after last pitch so fun abseil down.
roberto18 8 Sep, 2011 AltLd Great route felt about E2, some hard moves but well protected
with Tom Nickols
Great route felt about E2, some hard moves but well protected
with Tom Nickols
James W 25 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
jonnie3430 17 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Harder than f6a if you don't climb french free, probably closer to 6c+, great route though and rapid abseils.
with Joe
Harder than f6a if you don't climb french free, probably closer to 6c+, great route though and rapid abseils.
with Joe
Andy Lagan 10 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Julesthe1st 7 Aug, 2011 AltLd dnf Tired and not even remotely on the ball we bailed after three pitches. Though we had left the topo in the hut so probably wouldn't have got to the summit. Weather was looking dubious also. Bit of a lame effort by all accounts.
with Paul Wolf
Tired and not even remotely on the ball we bailed after three pitches. Though we had left the topo in the hut so probably wouldn't have got to the summit. Weather was looking dubious also. Bit of a lame effort by all accounts.
with Paul Wolf
Hidden 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
inuklm 23 Aug, 2009 - fell off didnt finish it
with Dave Gent
fell off didnt finish it
with Dave Gent
davidgent 22 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf Only climbed P1
with Kunal
Only climbed P1
with Kunal
edek_w 20 Jul, 2008 - Not so hard, but beautiful.
Not so hard, but beautiful.
steveb2006 25 Jun, 2006 AltLd Good route
with Chris Parkin
Good route
with Chris Parkin
dannyboy83 ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Will Barbour
with Will Barbour
Grezza ?Jul, 2003 AltLd hard but very satisftying
with Paul E
hard but very satisftying
with Paul E
Hidden ?Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 1995 AltLd
with Simon Taylor
with Simon Taylor
tjekel ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1991 AltLd
Hidden 28 Aug, 1990 Lead
alpinist63 ?Aug, 1990 AltLd O/S
Robmwatt ??, 1990 -
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
Alan James - UKC and UKH 2 Aug, 1988 AltLd
with amstel
with amstel
Hidden 19 Jul, 1987 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 1987 AltLd
Neil McA 26 Jun, 1986 AltLd
with Andy Perkins
with Andy Perkins
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead O/S
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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set