Rockfax Description
I, 330m. A fantastic route with plenty of variety.
1) 6b+. Climb pitch 1 of Le marchand de sable and, shortly before reaching the belay, branch off left and follow bolts to the foot of a flared crack.
2) 6c. A short pitch which packs quite a punch. Go up the flared crack (technical) and a slab above to belay under a roof.
3) 6a+. Make a few bolt-protected slab moves right to join pitch 3 of Le marchand de sable and follow this to the belay.
4) 6a+. Climb the slab straight above, pass through a small bulge and then move left up a leaning chimney.
5) 6b+. Make a delicate traverse up and left across the slab to reach a chimney system leading to a belay ledge.
6) 6a+. A long, slightly easier pitch, through a series of chimneys. After roughly 40m you pass a belay over to the right. Ignore this and climb a chimney to reach a vegetated ledge.
7) 6b. Climb the steep slab, past a small bulge, to a small ledge.
8) 5c. A short pitch up increasingly steep ground to the foot of the final tower.
9) 6c. A chimney, a technical slab and a final chimney lead to a belay shared with Le marchand de sable. © Rockfax


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High ED3
Mid ED3
Low ED3
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Beyond Good and Evil

Grade: ED2 ***
(Aiguille des Pelerins)

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