100m.

Rockfax Description
II, 100m, 1 hour. A good introduction to steep snow, this is something of a mini classic. In good condition it should be possible to place the occasional ice screw but generally there is very little protection - luckily the technical difficulties are not high. Cross the bergschrund (sometimes quite wide) and climb the sustained 50 - 55 degree face. It can be climbed just about anywhere so an element of judgement is required to pick the best line.
Descent - Descend the Normal Route to reach the Glacier du Tour. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Straight up the wide north face. Snow or ice to 55 deg.

Ticklists

Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
tradisrad 8 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Led over bergschrund, then backed off due to poor rotten snow.
Led over bergschrund, then backed off due to poor rotten snow.
philmitch 29 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Only a dusting of snow on the face. Loose at the top.
Only a dusting of snow on the face. Loose at the top.
Roberttaylor 8 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
AliceOstrich 8 Jun, 2017 2nd
with Rob
with Rob
jhobbs 28 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Mark Haward
with Mark Haward
Sam Hunt 2 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
GregJones17 2 Jul, 2015 AltLd
adam001 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Great conditions, few poor days before but a good freeze and the route was ideal. Good hard neve on the surface for front pointing but weak enough to kick in for a rest. Completed in 3 pitches, 2 on the main face, first belay ice was hard to find! Last belay just before the steepening as you hit the first rocks, traversed up the final face to finish. Continued to Petite Fourche then abbed the bergshrund under the north aspect
Great conditions, few poor days before but a good freeze and the route was ideal. Good hard neve on the surface for front pointing but weak enough to kick in for a rest. Completed in 3 pitches, 2 on the main face, first belay ice was hard to find! Last belay just before the steepening as you hit the first rocks, traversed up the final face to finish. Continued to Petite Fourche then abbed the bergshrund under the north aspect
laurashaw ?Jun, 2015 Lead dnf Just didn't have the conditions! Far too hot for good snow, but will have to come back and do the route
with Emily Ford, Ben Cailey
Just didn't have the conditions! Far too hot for good snow, but will have to come back and do the route
with Emily Ford, Ben Cailey
lanky and weak 8 Sep, 2014 -
with Jason King
with Jason King
Katie S 31 Aug, 2014 Solo
Matt Schwarz 31 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S tied together but not gear!
with Katie S
tied together but not gear!
with Katie S
JHolland 16 Aug, 2014 -
winter hill1 ?Jul, 2014 Lead
with russell hurst
with russell hurst
Ewanski 20 Jun, 2014 -
Strachan 5 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Good snow most of the way up, followed a runnel. Good slinged rock belays but completely run out in between. Warm, didn't bother with gloves. Combined with Petite Fourche.
Good snow most of the way up, followed a runnel. Good slinged rock belays but completely run out in between. Warm, didn't bother with gloves. Combined with Petite Fourche.
Hidden 5 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
thomaspomfrett 17 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Dan Slome
with Dan Slome
wendynicholls 16 Jul, 2012 2nd From albert premier hut. Led the last short pitch to summit.
with Dominic Saul
From albert premier hut. Led the last short pitch to summit.
with Dominic Saul
steveprice.exmouth 3 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Steve Woollard 3 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 Lead
R_W_M 28 Jun, 2012 -
with Ragingpossum, Harry, Steve C
with Ragingpossum, Harry, Steve C
Ragingpossum 28 Jun, 2012 -
with R_W_M
with R_W_M
TimPerkin 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Nick King, Derek Buckle
with Nick King, Derek Buckle
Redneck 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Mark
with Mark
KatieG 20 Jun, 2011 AltLd
CWMulcahy 26 Jul, 2010 2nd dnf From Albert Premier Hut via Col du Tour. Did not complete due to size of Bergschrund.
From Albert Premier Hut via Col du Tour. Did not complete due to size of Bergschrund.
Neil D 4 Jul, 2010 - Moved together.
Moved together.
BorisVBlade 4 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Moved together
with Neil D
Moved together
with Neil D
Andy DB 8 Jun, 2010 -
barney800 8 Jun, 2010 - Excellent weather with lots of well consolidated snow. Unprotectable conditions so kicked giant steps all the way up. Continued on to Petite Fourche.
with Andy DB
Excellent weather with lots of well consolidated snow. Unprotectable conditions so kicked giant steps all the way up. Continued on to Petite Fourche.
with Andy DB
bobelvedere ?Aug, 2009 Solo
with Allan Christensen, Jan Mathorne
with Allan Christensen, Jan Mathorne
cmsg 31 Jul, 2009 Lead dnf Stopped by large rockfall. Luke sustained broken arm, and choppered to Sion Hospital.
with Luke Gannarelli, Llewelyn Thomas
Stopped by large rockfall. Luke sustained broken arm, and choppered to Sion Hospital.
with Luke Gannarelli, Llewelyn Thomas
Hidden 26 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
jamieevans ??, 2009 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?Sep, 2008 - Combined with ascent of Petite Fourche. A nice little 'north face' route.
with Colin Morrison
Combined with ascent of Petite Fourche. A nice little 'north face' route.
with Colin Morrison
fellgazelle ??, 2000 AltLd O/S Combined with ascent of Petite Fourche
with Steven Vermesch
Combined with ascent of Petite Fourche
with Steven Vermesch
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