Rockfax Description
II, 100m, 1 hour. A good introduction to steep snow, this is something of a mini classic. In good condition it should be possible to place the occasional ice screw but generally there is very little protection - luckily the technical difficulties are not high. Cross the bergschrund (sometimes quite wide) and climb the sustained 50 - 55 degree face. It can be climbed just about anywhere so an element of judgement is required to pick the best line.
Descent - Descend the Normal Route to reach the Glacier du Tour. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Straight up the wide north face. Snow or ice to 55 deg.

Ticklists: Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming.

philmitch 29/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Only a dusting of snow on the face. Loose at the top.

Roberttaylor 08/Jun/17 Lead O/S
AliceOstrich 08/Jun/17 2nd
with Rob
jhobbs 28/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Mark Haward
Sam Hunt 02/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
GregJones17 02/Jul/15 AltLd
adam001 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Great conditions, few poor days before but a good freeze and the route was ideal. Good hard neve on the surface for front pointing but weak enough to kick in for a rest. Completed in 3 pitches, 2 on the main face, first belay ice was hard to find! Last belay just before the steepening as you hit the first rocks, traversed up the final face to finish. Continued to Petite Fourche then abbed the bergshrund under the north aspect

laurashaw ?/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Just didn't have the conditions! Far too hot for good snow, but will have to come back and do the route

with Emily Ford, Ben Cailey
lanky and weak 08/Sep/14 -
with Jason King
Katie S 31/Aug/14 Solo
Matt Schwarz 31/Aug/14 Solo O/S

tied together but not gear!

with katie
JHolland 16/Aug/14 -
winter hill1 ?/Jul/14 Lead
with russell hurst
Ewanski 20/Jun/14 -
Strachan 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Good snow most of the way up, followed a runnel. Good slinged rock belays but completely run out in between. Warm, didn't bother with gloves. Combined with Petite Fourche.

Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
thomaspomfrett 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Dan Slome
wendynicholls 16/Jul/12 2nd

From albert premier hut. Led the last short pitch to summit.

with Dominic Saul
steveprice.exmouth 03/Jul/12 AltLd
Steve Woollard 03/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead
R_W_M 28/Jun/12 -
with Will B, Harry, Steve C
Ragingpossum 28/Jun/12 -
with R_W_M
TimPerkin 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Nick King, Derek Buckle
Redneck 03/Jul/11 AltLd
with Mark
KatieG 20/Jun/11 AltLd
CWMulcahy 26/Jul/10 2nd dnf

From Albert Premier Hut via Col du Tour. Did not complete due to size of Bergschrund.

Neil D 04/Jul/10 -

Moved together.

BorisVBlade 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Moved together

Andy DB 08/Jun/10 -
with James B
barney800 08/Jun/10 -

Excellent weather with lots of well consolidated snow. Unprotectable conditions so kicked giant steps all the way up. Continued on to Petite Fourche.

bobelvedere ?/Aug/09 Solo
with Allan Christensen, Jan Mathorne
cmsg 31/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Stopped by large rockfall. Luke sustained broken arm, and choppered to Sion Hospital.

with Luke Gannarelli, Llewelyn Thomas
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/Sep/08 -

Combined with ascent of Petite Fourche. A nice little 'north face' route.

with Colin Morrison
fellgazelle ??/2000 AltLd O/S

Combined with ascent of Petite Fourche

with Steven Vermesch
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