Rockfax Description
120m, 2 - 4 hours. A true alpine classic - this is one of the few routes anywhere involving a tyrolean! If the climbing is well within your comfort zone, you will only need quickdraws and slings as there is some fixed gear on every pitch, but possibly not quite enough for those who find these grades tricky. If in doubt, chuck in half a dozen wires and a couple of big cams.
Approach - From Planpraz, walk up the ski piste towards Brévent for 200m to a signpost which includes a sign to the Clocher-Clochetons Traverse. Follow the path for 50 minutes to reach the foot of the Clocher. It becomes vague in a boulderfield around the top of Hotel California but just keep heading upwards, following signs of wear and the path reappears.
1) 4b. Climb the west face of the Clochetons (the face that the approach path naturally brings you to) easily for 10m, then step right and follow flakes onto the South Face to the wide crack (4b) for 15m. The belay is an odd collection of metalwork but it all seems solid enough. This pitch can be protected with slings in the lower part and then there are sparse pegs and bolts once on the south face. If the climbing is near your limit you will want a couple of big cams for the upper section.
2) Make a 25m abseil from the last belay down a narrow gully on the north side of the peak to reach a ledge underneath the notch between the Clocher de Planpraz and the Petit Clocher.
3) 3b. Climb the steep wall (3b) above and then the easy slab to the top of the Petit Clocher.
4) Make a 20m abseil down the east face of the Petit Clocher to reach a sloping ledge. Another 25m abseil from here takes you to the foot of the 1st Clocheton.
5) 5a. Climb the crack (5a) up the west face of the first Clocheton. This looks tricky and steep, but the holds are good and there are pegs just where you need them. The pitch leads to a iron spike, which is the anchor for one side of the tyrolean.
6) A truly unique section! A ledge on the second Clochetons is 5m away and also has an iron spike. Lasso this (the debate rages about whether an underarm or overarm technique is better for this manoeuvre!) and make a tyrolean across to the second Clocheton. If lacking the appropriate lasso skills, it is possible to abseil 15m down the east face and then make another 25m abseil northwards to reach the descent path.
7) 4b. Climb the wall and slab (4b, two pegs) to the top of the second Clochetons.
8) A 20m abseil down the north face leads to the foot of the notorious final chimney.
9) 5a. Climb the chimney, with as much style as you can, past a jammed block with a sling round it which is used for protection/cheating. From the top of the chimney, pass through the rock hole and climb the slab to the top of the third Clocheton.
10) Make a 20m abseil down the east face and scramble down on an exposed path before crossing onto the north side of the ridge at a small notch. Walk/scramble back underneath the traverse and reclimb back to the foot of the first pitch.
Descent - Walk down to Planpraz on the Clocher-Clochetons approach path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic, short training climb. A small rack is sufficient, there is in situ gear for the abseils.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Big Routes, Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming

Feedback

UserDateNotes
bummingham 14 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Becareful with rope work on the long absail (2x short in rockfax) . We did it in one and got the rope mega stuck. We also pulled the rope up for the group in front (who did it in one).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Becareful with rope work on the long absail (2x short in rockfax) . We did it in one and got the rope mega stuck. We also pulled the rope up for the group in front (who did it in one).
Calum3610 1 Jul Show βeta
βeta: The “jammed” block in the final 5a chimney pitch definitely moves, I wouldn’t pull on it. We also saw a guided party skip the chimney pitch so maybe this is a known problem if you are local.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The “jammed” block in the final 5a chimney pitch definitely moves, I wouldn’t pull on it. We also saw a guided party skip the chimney pitch so maybe this is a known problem if you are local.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
NatalieB96 15 Sep 2nd
Webster 15 Sep AltLd in big boots, chose the final pitch of chocher chochon (6a) instead of the normal route for the first pitch, makes a logical link up. got tyrolean first try, just chuck a big coil beyond the spike onto the ledge, then flick one strand over both spikes and pull it tight! dogged and cheated my way up the chimney, and im a trad climber! definately the toughest part.
in big boots, chose the final pitch of chocher chochon (6a) instead of the normal route for the first pitch, makes a logical link up. got tyrolean first try, just chuck a big coil beyond the spike onto the ledge, then flick one strand over both spikes and pull it tight! dogged and cheated my way up the chimney, and im a trad climber! definately the toughest part.
Remyveness 15 Sep Lead O/S Great route, with interest sustained throughout. Pretty busy but didn’t detract from from the climbing
Great route, with interest sustained throughout. Pretty busy but didn’t detract from from the climbing
Elman 13 Sep Lead O/S Nice climb with lots of abseil. Led all pitches.
Nice climb with lots of abseil. Led all pitches.
Hidden 11 Sep -
HansStuttgart 8 Sep AltLd very nice!
very nice!
evanc77 29 Aug Lead
Hidden 14 Aug AltLd O/S
Subseaclimber 8 Aug AltLd with connor
with connor
Oplumb 8 Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Aug AltLd O/S
TomGB 4 Aug AltLd Nice route, glad Adam worked out the tyrolean! Yanked on the sling in the chimney; a tall man's pitch!
Nice route, glad Adam worked out the tyrolean! Yanked on the sling in the chimney; a tall man's pitch!
bummingham 4 Aug AltLd O/S Much fun. Interesting route in a good position. Cheers to the rope untanglers in front.
with TomGB
Much fun. Interesting route in a good position. Cheers to the rope untanglers in front.
with TomGB
Binder 3 Aug AltLd O/S Fun. Fairly straightforward climbing but the tyrolean is entertaining. We got the lasso on the fourth attempt, with a doubles technique - both throwing coils!
with gravity
Fun. Fairly straightforward climbing but the tyrolean is entertaining. We got the lasso on the fourth attempt, with a doubles technique - both throwing coils!
with gravity
K Mckay 1 Aug AltLd O/S Did a route on the Brevent first followed by crepe and wine. After a long break decided we should do another route. Made Paul trudge over to do this. Not quite what I was expecting. Bit contrived? We had fun on it though.
with Paul Gibbison
Did a route on the Brevent first followed by crepe and wine. After a long break decided we should do another route. Made Paul trudge over to do this. Not quite what I was expecting. Bit contrived? We had fun on it though.
with Paul Gibbison
Mike Brogden 1 Aug AltLd
James Gordon ?Aug -
paul horabin 31 Jul AltLd
Sam24 29 Jul 2nd
Hidden 29 Jul AltLd
tjockosne 28 Jul -
Kit Kline 26 Jul TR O/S
Amy Kilpin 26 Jul 2nd
jennym32 21 Jul Lead dnf Led up the first pitch which was very nice but had to take a slightly awkward route option because of a very slow other party member seconding the main line. 8 people sharing the bolt at the top of the first pitch! Gave up after finally being able to bring Holly up and abseiled back down and walked out. Just too busy.
with Holly Warder
Led up the first pitch which was very nice but had to take a slightly awkward route option because of a very slow other party member seconding the main line. 8 people sharing the bolt at the top of the first pitch! Gave up after finally being able to bring Holly up and abseiled back down and walked out. Just too busy.
with Holly Warder
jim_l 21 Jul AltLd O/S
curon 21 Jul 2nd dnf Seconded the first pitch, taking the line direct, decided to abort the traverse as it was too busy...
Seconded the first pitch, taking the line direct, decided to abort the traverse as it was too busy...
Hidden 20 Jul 2nd O/S
GrayGPT 17 Jul Lead
Olliequilter123 17 Jul 2nd
pete.langdown 17 Jul Lead β
MarcyBoy87 17 Jul 2nd
oonagh thin 16 Jul AltLd
eric.simonsson 15 Jul -
naomi97 14 Jul 2nd O/S A lot of faff with the abseils, but very cool route
with jackob, Connor Henley
A lot of faff with the abseils, but very cool route
with jackob, Connor Henley
jackob 14 Jul AltLd A lot of faff involved when doing this as a 3 cool route tho
with Naomi
A lot of faff involved when doing this as a 3 cool route tho
with Naomi
Connorh 14 Jul AltLd O/S
Michael 14 Jul -
Horatio Everett 12 Jul 2nd dog
with Daddy, Everetta
with Daddy, Everetta
Everetta 12 Jul Lead O/S
QuentinSu 11 Jul Lead G/U
Spykesy 11 Jul AltLd O/S Alt Leads with Matt, Eva keeping an eye on us part way through alpine course. Missed last chimney as big queue,
Alt Leads with Matt, Eva keeping an eye on us part way through alpine course. Missed last chimney as big queue,
Hidden 6 Jul AltLd O/S
jaderosanne 5 Jul AltLd Did this after cocher-cochon, the Tyrolean wasn't as scary as expected - the scariest part was the chimney pitch with the (wobbling) block as the only point of protection. Was advised to take boots and crampons by the haute montagne but they were unnecessary.
Did this after cocher-cochon, the Tyrolean wasn't as scary as expected - the scariest part was the chimney pitch with the (wobbling) block as the only point of protection. Was advised to take boots and crampons by the haute montagne but they were unnecessary.
OaHolroyd 4 Jul AltLd
EGriffin 4 Jul AltLd β To my great sadness, I lost Oscar's nut on this route. RIP.
To my great sadness, I lost Oscar's nut on this route. RIP.
gscw 3 Jul AltLd
with Alfred Robertson
with Alfred Robertson
Giles Eperon 2 Jul AltLd O/S Did after Cocher-cochons. Wierd and fun. Tiss managed the lasso on first try, nice!
Did after Cocher-cochons. Wierd and fun. Tiss managed the lasso on first try, nice!
Hidden 2 Jul AltLd O/S
Aislinn_sun ?Jul AltLd
Matt Boyd ?Jul AltLd
with Neil Dickson
with Neil Dickson
Alpine Rob 29 Jun -
Cbulman 29 Jun AltLd O/S
Calum3610 29 Jun AltLd
with Andy H AMC
with Andy H AMC
Hidden 29 Jun Lead
Jacob Eagles 28 Jun Lead O/S Third throw for the tyrolean traverse. Wasn’t sure how to set it up, but what we did seemed to work.
Third throw for the tyrolean traverse. Wasn’t sure how to set it up, but what we did seemed to work.
simon snowdon 28 Jun 2nd
Harryblake 27 Jun AltLd rpt
Derek Graham 27 Jun AltLd
iainJ 25 Jun Lead O/S Got the throw first try
Got the throw first try
SophieWalker 25 Jun 2nd
with iainJ
with iainJ
JFT 24 Jun AltLd dnf Bailed after the tyrolean as time was ticking by due to poor route finding and too much faffing
with Aquinn
Bailed after the tyrolean as time was ticking by due to poor route finding and too much faffing
with Aquinn
Aquinn 24 Jun AltLd dnf Bailed after tyrolean after late start
with JFT
Bailed after tyrolean after late start
with JFT
John1458 22 Jun AltLd O/S First route of this year's trip, I lead first pitch and chimney in big boots, Alex lead the other pitch's. First time on a Tyrolean, great fun! Late start meant getting the last lift by the skin of our teeth...
First route of this year's trip, I lead first pitch and chimney in big boots, Alex lead the other pitch's. First time on a Tyrolean, great fun! Late start meant getting the last lift by the skin of our teeth...
ajscott774 22 Jun AltLd O/S
Chris Manasseh 18 Jun AltLd Day 2 of alpine training course. Led pitch 5 and last pitch (avoided the chimney)
with Al Powell, Fraser Jarvis
Day 2 of alpine training course. Led pitch 5 and last pitch (avoided the chimney)
with Al Powell, Fraser Jarvis
lo22 13 Jun AltLd Busy but enjoyable. Almost missed the lift but some kind employ let us through the closed shutters.
Busy but enjoyable. Almost missed the lift but some kind employ let us through the closed shutters.
Steely12 13 Jun AltLd O/S Great route, didn't get on it until midday due to missing the approach path for the climb we intended to do. First pitch felt spicier than expected and the tyrolean was excellent. Expected to miss the last lift down as we didn't finish the route until 4.30pm. Arrived at the lift about 5.20pm to find the shutters down but the operator was still around so opened up to let us get the lift. Great adventure.
with lo22
Great route, didn't get on it until midday due to missing the approach path for the climb we intended to do. First pitch felt spicier than expected and the tyrolean was excellent. Expected to miss the last lift down as we didn't finish the route until 4.30pm. Arrived at the lift about 5.20pm to find the shutters down but the operator was still around so opened up to let us get the lift. Great adventure.
with lo22
Aled Williams 12 Jun - All done in big booties …. of width horrifically disgusting
with Hero Pete
All done in big booties …. of width horrifically disgusting
with Hero Pete
Si 8 Jun AltLd
Hidden 8 Jun Lead O/S
oaty ?Jun - Nailed tyrolean first go, picked up random guy to climb with as a three on the approach (his partners ran out of water on the approach and couldn't handle the heatwave!). Chimney pitch was a fight.
Nailed tyrolean first go, picked up random guy to climb with as a three on the approach (his partners ran out of water on the approach and couldn't handle the heatwave!). Chimney pitch was a fight.
Hidden 16 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
hairy51 14 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Joe Andrews 14 Sep, 2018 AltLd rpt
Benjaminblanc 14 Sep, 2018 AltLd rpt
pancakeandchips 10 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf Bailed at the tyrolean
with Rosie
Bailed at the tyrolean
with Rosie
8PetrieC 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Tom McCabe 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
JRJones 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Merlin 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Fun few hours, a few cams were handy. Phil nailed the tyrolean throw on the first attempt. Don’t descend the dicey path at the end, just jump the col on the left to the north side and walk back!
with Chubbs
Fun few hours, a few cams were handy. Phil nailed the tyrolean throw on the first attempt. Don’t descend the dicey path at the end, just jump the col on the left to the north side and walk back!
with Chubbs
Chubbs 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd
wheelsucker 10 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Started late at 3pm on the route and finished at 6 so missed the last cable car down. The walk wasn't too bad. Didn't spoil a great day though. Easy climbing and a fun route.
with HW
Started late at 3pm on the route and finished at 6 so missed the last cable car down. The walk wasn't too bad. Didn't spoil a great day though. Easy climbing and a fun route.
with HW
Nickwild 10 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Julien Ravanello, Daniel Wild
with Julien Ravanello, Daniel Wild
philippoc93 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Gerry Kenny
with Gerry Kenny
gingerking 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Hadley
with Hadley
ewanthomson 3 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Bon
with Tselane Mead
Bon
with Tselane Mead
Natalie Berry - UKC 3 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Great adventure!
with Anna Wells
Great adventure!
with Anna Wells
Phloebus 30 Jul, 2018 TR O/S First climb in Chamonix!
First climb in Chamonix!
Dom Goodwin 27 Jul, 2018 2nd Superb route. Much grunting and scrabbling in the final chimney (not just by me!). Many seemed to struggle with this.
with Kal
Superb route. Much grunting and scrabbling in the final chimney (not just by me!). Many seemed to struggle with this.
with Kal
Hidden 21 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
Ellfen 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd 2x 4b pitch leads - 1 abseil setup
with Joe
2x 4b pitch leads - 1 abseil setup
with Joe
Hidden 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd
WTorrensa 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Gemmazrobo 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Really fun! Tyrolean took way too many attempts but nice climbing, defo worth combining with Cocher Cochon in a day instead.
Really fun! Tyrolean took way too many attempts but nice climbing, defo worth combining with Cocher Cochon in a day instead.
jameslomax 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Better protected than it looks, just bring slings and quickdraws. Started from top of the clocher de planpraz after clocher-cochon (dont be tempted by the bolt on the other side of this peak, the NW gully is easy to escape up to the next clocheton. Lead the crack pitch (P5), which I donned climbing shoes for as it looks much harder than it is from the ground - protection and holds really do appear in plenty. After multiple attempts to through the rope over the stake I let Holly show me how it was done! Escaped after final abseil down a easier-than-it-looks downclimb, then walked straight down the grassy gully toward our bags near the bottom of the route - possibly quicker to walk down via the approach path.
with Holly
Better protected than it looks, just bring slings and quickdraws. Started from top of the clocher de planpraz after clocher-cochon (dont be tempted by the bolt on the other side of this peak, the NW gully is easy to escape up to the next clocheton. Lead the crack pitch (P5), which I donned climbing shoes for as it looks much harder than it is from the ground - protection and holds really do appear in plenty. After multiple attempts to through the rope over the stake I let Holly show me how it was done! Escaped after final abseil down a easier-than-it-looks downclimb, then walked straight down the grassy gully toward our bags near the bottom of the route - possibly quicker to walk down via the approach path.
with Holly
ConorWalter 11 Jul, 2018 - Guinea Pigged Cathal on the Tyrolean .Success
with Cathal, Cormac Kelly
Guinea Pigged Cathal on the Tyrolean .Success
with Cathal, Cormac Kelly
wilkinscl 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S A great outing. The climbing at times felt a little insecure but is never difficult. Large cams means 5 or 6 c4s
with Katharine
A great outing. The climbing at times felt a little insecure but is never difficult. Large cams means 5 or 6 c4s
with Katharine
Ian Lemon 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Fun, faffy day out. Beat guidebook time by a good bit though.
Fun, faffy day out. Beat guidebook time by a good bit though.
DermotShiels 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd Great day out. Brought too many layers. First Tyrolese traverse too. Great craic
with Declan Murray
Great day out. Brought too many layers. First Tyrolese traverse too. Great craic
with Declan Murray
Conor McNamara ?Jul, 2018 Lead I did the tyrolean
I did the tyrolean
george.rich 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd
The9inger 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Stuart Russell 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Amy Henchoz 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Harryblake 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with tghayne
with tghayne
LukeWS 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Awesome day out, first pitch was a bit run out but after that the climbing was fairly well protected. Crossing the Tyrolean definitely added to the route!
Awesome day out, first pitch was a bit run out but after that the climbing was fairly well protected. Crossing the Tyrolean definitely added to the route!
AliceOstrich 24 Jun, 2018 2nd
with LukeWS, George
with LukeWS, George
tomchitson 21 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Wild day out. Tyrolean is great fun, only took 9 attempts to throw the rope over. Found the first pitch relatively scary but the rest was plain sailing. Skipped the chimney to catch the last lift down.
Wild day out. Tyrolean is great fun, only took 9 attempts to throw the rope over. Found the first pitch relatively scary but the rest was plain sailing. Skipped the chimney to catch the last lift down.
kitbehard 21 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S The first pitch was surprisingly difficult. The rest of the route wasn't too hard and really fun. The lasso was so cool too!
The first pitch was surprisingly difficult. The rest of the route wasn't too hard and really fun. The lasso was so cool too!
BarneyLoosemore 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
bethr_1997 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd
kbow265 15 Jun, 2018 -
jflloyd ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
Alex.De ??, 2018 -
Dougbart 29 Sep, 2017 AltLd
with Ruban
with Ruban
Tim Bevan 16 Sep, 2017 AltLd
DaveThexton 16 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
with sarah, Josh Willett, Matt Groom, Tim Bevan
with sarah, Josh Willett, Matt Groom, Tim Bevan
Hidden 16 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Finn Curry 28 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Paul Warnock
with Paul Warnock
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd
BHuthers 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd G/U Tyrolean was entertaining, I fell out of the final chimney, started again from the ground and got it in one. I hate chimneys...
Tyrolean was entertaining, I fell out of the final chimney, started again from the ground and got it in one. I hate chimneys...
GHawksworth 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Tyrolean was a fun challenge! final chimney is easy if you're tall and can bridge it. Out of the 6 people present, only the two over 6ft didn't have a mare on it.
Tyrolean was a fun challenge! final chimney is easy if you're tall and can bridge it. Out of the 6 people present, only the two over 6ft didn't have a mare on it.
rosatb 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Hermione Toomey
with Hermione Toomey
calumhicks 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Indiana jones style! Very eliminate route, but worth it for the tyro
with Morna bernerna
Indiana jones style! Very eliminate route, but worth it for the tyro
with Morna bernerna
Hidden 20 Aug, 2017 -
Mbaillie 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Just Will 17 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Josh Abrahams, CameronH
with Josh Abrahams, CameronH
CameronH 17 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Josh Abrahams, Just Will
with Josh Abrahams, Just Will
Hidden 16 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd
67hours 15 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Definitely underarm.
Definitely underarm.
Rob Moorcroft ?Aug, 2017 2nd
with Richard Ive
with Richard Ive
Linus Osorio 28 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Louis Kennedy
with Louis Kennedy
Robbie Blease 28 Jul, 2017 AltLd Very fun!!!
Very fun!!!
Siongethinhill 28 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Adam Martin
with Adam Martin
JohnHartley 28 Jul, 2017 AltLd
EllieWoods 21 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Maz J 21 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Simon Jones
with Simon Jones
Richard Alderton 21 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
j.buckley87 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
perrys 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with bennys89, Jo Boyd
with bennys89, Jo Boyd
bennys89 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with perrys
with perrys
lukegorman 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S and grant. great fun
and grant. great fun
bc44caesar 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S A fantastic 5-person adventure, that by all accounts that should have been a fuster-cluck of tangled ropes, faff, and moving at a glacial pace. In actual fact we sped along in less than 3hrs- I had approach shoes on and tops off for power all day. Great day
A fantastic 5-person adventure, that by all accounts that should have been a fuster-cluck of tangled ropes, faff, and moving at a glacial pace. In actual fact we sped along in less than 3hrs- I had approach shoes on and tops off for power all day. Great day
Wendy Watthews 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd Got lost in the walk in but ended up in the right place. As a group of 5, sadly the tyrolorian rope caught first time limiting the fun that could be had trough multiple tries.
Got lost in the walk in but ended up in the right place. As a group of 5, sadly the tyrolorian rope caught first time limiting the fun that could be had trough multiple tries.
janegallwey 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
kingjam 16 Jul, 2017 Lead Cracking fun route
Cracking fun route
Rob Royle 16 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Mountain Guide
with Mountain Guide
DomTe 11 Jul, 2017 2nd with Kellie Grice
with Kellie Grice
Andy Wilcox 8 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Wyn Jones
with Wyn Jones
Jack Manfredi 8 Jul, 2017 -
with Dad
with Dad
cwildblood 4 Jul, 2017 -
Gerben Neven 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Tom.Sedgwick 4 Jul, 2017 -
BenCollis 3 Jul, 2017 Lead
Teshil ?Jul, 2017 Lead
with Xieheng Kong
with Xieheng Kong
themattyshep 27 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Rob_Morris1996 27 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Awesome route! Dropped a cam down the 5m slot at the top of the first pitch, a long length of rope with the nut key attachment meant everyone behind was held up while I went fishing! Got it in the end, then the most intense two minutes of bringing it up gently in order t not loose it again!! Tyrolean was awesome, not quite as smooth as the Scandinavians behind us, but they learnt from our mistakes! Watching Theo hump his way up the 'traditional' chimney was one of my fave moments from the trip!
Awesome route! Dropped a cam down the 5m slot at the top of the first pitch, a long length of rope with the nut key attachment meant everyone behind was held up while I went fishing! Got it in the end, then the most intense two minutes of bringing it up gently in order t not loose it again!! Tyrolean was awesome, not quite as smooth as the Scandinavians behind us, but they learnt from our mistakes! Watching Theo hump his way up the 'traditional' chimney was one of my fave moments from the trip!
AlexD-L 24 Jun, 2017 2nd dnf Coeliac climbing featuring slowest 4b pitch ever seconded followed by most hysterical abseil and slowest wander down the mountain possibly ever! Must come back to this one!!
Coeliac climbing featuring slowest 4b pitch ever seconded followed by most hysterical abseil and slowest wander down the mountain possibly ever! Must come back to this one!!
steve_gibbs 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Megan
with Megan
Meganhwclark 24 Jun, 2017 2nd
adawson 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Steve Gibbs , Meganhwclark, duncanedgley
with Steve Gibbs , Meganhwclark, duncanedgley
duncanedgley 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with adawson
with adawson
Lucy Honychurch 23 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
RhysRolfe 23 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt Did the first pitch after hotel California.
Did the first pitch after hotel California.
Hidden 23 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
RhysRolfe 20 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p1,2,4 forgot my climbing shoes but was ok in approach shoes. Wish I had brought the size 6 dragon for p1, p3 was fun, p5 was very unpleasant, resorted to aid to get past the block which is loose.
Led p1,2,4 forgot my climbing shoes but was ok in approach shoes. Wish I had brought the size 6 dragon for p1, p3 was fun, p5 was very unpleasant, resorted to aid to get past the block which is loose.
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 AltLd
piken 19 Jun, 2017 Lead Didnt need big boots and an axe!! no snow great fun - lots of rope work
with Jamie Carr
Didnt need big boots and an axe!! no snow great fun - lots of rope work
with Jamie Carr
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd dnf
YellowFellow 16 Jun, 2017 AltLd After doing Cocher Cochon. Perfect combo
with Jaime
After doing Cocher Cochon. Perfect combo
with Jaime
Steve Woollard 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd dnf Bailed from the first Clocheton due to impending thunderstorm
with Gavin
Bailed from the first Clocheton due to impending thunderstorm
with Gavin
andrew.tyrrell 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Stunning route, and one of the best climbs I've done. Glad to have taken cams for the crack up south side of P1. Most interesting ab anchors I've ever used. Setting up the retrievable Tyrolean was an interesting little problem to solve but we managed it and crossing it was fantastic! Abbed off from the far side as that's when the thunder started. Didn't fancy the chimney pitch anyway. Aspirant guides ahead of us looked like they weren't having fun on it!
Stunning route, and one of the best climbs I've done. Glad to have taken cams for the crack up south side of P1. Most interesting ab anchors I've ever used. Setting up the retrievable Tyrolean was an interesting little problem to solve but we managed it and crossing it was fantastic! Abbed off from the far side as that's when the thunder started. Didn't fancy the chimney pitch anyway. Aspirant guides ahead of us looked like they weren't having fun on it!
matt_batchelor 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd dnf
nathanjmasters 13 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with rosso
with rosso
rosso 13 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Andy Ovens - UKC and UKH 12 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
mattdennies 12 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Tyrolean was good fun, hooked the spike on the first throw. Much faff later four of us were safely across. Didn't do last chimney due to chance of missing last lift (it looks awful anyway).
Tyrolean was good fun, hooked the spike on the first throw. Much faff later four of us were safely across. Didn't do last chimney due to chance of missing last lift (it looks awful anyway).
a_m154 12 Jun, 2017 Lead Led with Conor + Andy and Matt in front. Fab day, went too far left of the crack on the first pitch so did the 6a instead :) tyrolean was done by Andy and Matt on the first throw! Ended up missing chimney pitch due to running out of time to get the lift.
with Conor
Led with Conor + Andy and Matt in front. Fab day, went too far left of the crack on the first pitch so did the 6a instead :) tyrolean was done by Andy and Matt on the first throw! Ended up missing chimney pitch due to running out of time to get the lift.
with Conor
Hidden ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
Robbo1 6 Sep, 2016 - Great day with Jonny
Great day with Jonny
humptydumpty 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1 & P3, and the Tyrolean (what a mess!). Great fun route, lots of laughter and lots of swag.
Led P1 & P3, and the Tyrolean (what a mess!). Great fun route, lots of laughter and lots of swag.
Petarghh 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Ulgrid 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd Brilliantly good fun and highly recommended. Dave got the Tyrolean Traverse hooked first time!
Brilliantly good fun and highly recommended. Dave got the Tyrolean Traverse hooked first time!
Hidden 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd
bclifton 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Trevers 25 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Great fun, although some of the abseils are pretty awkward. Missed out the final pitch. Worthwhile for the Tyrolean alone.
with wjcdean
Great fun, although some of the abseils are pretty awkward. Missed out the final pitch. Worthwhile for the Tyrolean alone.
with wjcdean
Rachael88 25 Jul, 2016 AltLd Well done to Adam & Will for finding the start of the route in the cloud. Great climbing, interesting abseils! and we did the tyrolen!
with BStar
Well done to Adam & Will for finding the start of the route in the cloud. Great climbing, interesting abseils! and we did the tyrolen!
with BStar
BStar 25 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Missed out the last chimney as it looked horrid. Hard to find the route in the clag but we managed to find it by using a combinations of 2 guidebook descriptions. The route was good fun, the highlight being the Tyrolean. The first and third climbs are by far the better ones. HS 4b in the UK maybe, but there's lots of pegs and in situ tat. So much fun!
with Trevers, Rachael88, Will Dean
Missed out the last chimney as it looked horrid. Hard to find the route in the clag but we managed to find it by using a combinations of 2 guidebook descriptions. The route was good fun, the highlight being the Tyrolean. The first and third climbs are by far the better ones. HS 4b in the UK maybe, but there's lots of pegs and in situ tat. So much fun!
with Trevers, Rachael88, Will Dean
wjcdean 25 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf super good day. very atmospheric in the clag. didnt do the final chimney pitch as it looked a bit awful! tyrolean was great. bit of a nightmare getting back after going up the wrong gully to get back to the start
super good day. very atmospheric in the clag. didnt do the final chimney pitch as it looked a bit awful! tyrolean was great. bit of a nightmare getting back after going up the wrong gully to get back to the start
Andrew Lodge 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Ran out of time to do the Tyrolean so had to ab off but a great varied route.
Ran out of time to do the Tyrolean so had to ab off but a great varied route.
Tony Ryland 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd Got as far as the tyrolean but didn't want to miss the last cablecar
Got as far as the tyrolean but didn't want to miss the last cablecar
Storme 7 Jul, 2016 2nd Tryolean was interesting.
with Jake397
Tryolean was interesting.
with Jake397
Hidden 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Sarah Roscoe 1 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Dave Humphries
with Dave Humphries
Hidden 1 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Jake397 ?Jul, 2016 -
with Storme England, Hamish
with Storme England, Hamish
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
bencoope ??, 2016 - The approach notes fail to mention that you have to leave the main path at a bend and take a smaller path that is marked with a red cross. Following these approach notes will take you for a nice long walk to the Brevant lift
The approach notes fail to mention that you have to leave the main path at a bend and take a smaller path that is marked with a red cross. Following these approach notes will take you for a nice long walk to the Brevant lift
wi11 4 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Louisa Reynolds
with Louisa Reynolds
davkeo 29 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S Tyrolean traverse was fun.
Tyrolean traverse was fun.
Joe Andrews 10 Aug, 2015 AltLd rpt
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Ken Applegate 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd Continuation of Label Virginie. The Tyrolean was probably the highlight of the route!
with Andy Barker
Continuation of Label Virginie. The Tyrolean was probably the highlight of the route!
with Andy Barker
Andrew Barker 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Mistakenly abseiled off the wrong side of the Clocher after Label Virginie. Then mistakenly climbed back up it via the 6a variation (hard in approach shoes). The traverse was fun, especially the tyrolean and taking my rucksack off halfway up the final chimney.
Mistakenly abseiled off the wrong side of the Clocher after Label Virginie. Then mistakenly climbed back up it via the 6a variation (hard in approach shoes). The traverse was fun, especially the tyrolean and taking my rucksack off halfway up the final chimney.
Benjaminblanc ?Aug, 2015 AltLd rpt All but the last chimney
with Joe Andrews
All but the last chimney
with Joe Andrews
Joe Andrews ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
with hairy51
with hairy51
hairy51 ?Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Tony Ryland 30 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf Did the Clocher but not the Clochetons
with Jonathan Davies
Did the Clocher but not the Clochetons
with Jonathan Davies
alexm198 2 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Pretty chilled route. Climbing is all very straightforward apart from the slippery final chimney! Tyrolean was good fun. Took about 2h45.
Pretty chilled route. Climbing is all very straightforward apart from the slippery final chimney! Tyrolean was good fun. Took about 2h45.
JonLongshanks 2 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Me P1, P4. Cool route, nice to be up high even if relatively not very high! Took the wrong abseil of the first tower which was a bit hairy but swung over to the gully. Climbing is all straightforward apart from the slippery final chimney which we both aided! Tyrolean was short but great fun. About 2h45. Definitely one of the highlights.
Me P1, P4. Cool route, nice to be up high even if relatively not very high! Took the wrong abseil of the first tower which was a bit hairy but swung over to the gully. Climbing is all straightforward apart from the slippery final chimney which we both aided! Tyrolean was short but great fun. About 2h45. Definitely one of the highlights.
alooker ?Jul, 2015 Lead
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
Hidden 2 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Frank Blakeley 20 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with Paul
with Paul
Hidden 14 Aug, 2014 -
Willythegreat ?Aug, 2014 AltLd Cool
Cool
Hidden 18 Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden 18 Jul, 2014 Lead
Hidden 2 Jul, 2014 AltLd
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden 27 Sep, 2013 AltLd
joe.91 27 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Really cool route, more abseiling than climbing though! Long walk in as the lifts are closed for the off season.
with Reidy
Really cool route, more abseiling than climbing though! Long walk in as the lifts are closed for the off season.
with Reidy
Hidden 29 Aug, 2013 2nd
Hidden 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 18 Jul, 2013 Solo
with Dave Dewhurst
with Dave Dewhurst
HosteDenis ?Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
jcw ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Tobias at Home ??, 2013 -
Mr. K 7 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Missed out the last needle as Chris' feet were disintegrating but still an amazing day out - did the optional tyrolean traverse.
Missed out the last needle as Chris' feet were disintegrating but still an amazing day out - did the optional tyrolean traverse.
Chris_Mullaney 7 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Mr. K
with Mr. K
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?Sep, 2012 AltLd
with torquil
with torquil
AlexxelA 30 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S Great fun, the tyrolean was novel if a bit short. Could be very time consuming if there wasnt a party ahead to catch the rope.
Great fun, the tyrolean was novel if a bit short. Could be very time consuming if there wasnt a party ahead to catch the rope.
Tom Campbell ?Jul, 2012 -
Colin Scotchford 12 Sep, 2011 -
chrissloan84 ?Aug, 2011 -
with paul
with paul
Hidden 31 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 31 Jul, 2011 -
Poco Loco 25 Jul, 2011 AltLd Great fun apart from one damp pitch!
with R. Horler, BALD EAGLE
Great fun apart from one damp pitch!
with R. Horler, BALD EAGLE
BALD EAGLE 25 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Rob Horler, J.Pomeroy
with Rob Horler, J.Pomeroy
Sinéad 10 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf
with RKernan
with RKernan
RKernan 10 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf Got lost on the walk in, did the first pitch, abbed off the wrong way and had a terrifying experience with a dodgy anchor then backed off due to bad weather
with Sinéad
Got lost on the walk in, did the first pitch, abbed off the wrong way and had a terrifying experience with a dodgy anchor then backed off due to bad weather
with Sinéad
Ashley Hold ?Oct, 2010 AltLd
with torquil
with torquil
Hidden ?Oct, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 1 Sep, 2010 AltLd
Dave Toseland 26 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Jim
with Jim
Vincej ?Aug, 2010 2nd
with Paolo Intrepido
with Paolo Intrepido
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 -
Guy Wilson ??, 2010 -
DebJ 8 Sep, 2009 2nd
with Al Powell, Chris & Terry
with Al Powell, Chris & Terry
Souljah 5 Sep, 2009 AltLd Big Fun
with Shaun
Big Fun
with Shaun
Hidden 30 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Aug, 2009 Lead
with Matt Evenden
with Matt Evenden
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 2nd
tim20 ??, 2009 -
shaun walby 10 Jul, 2008 AltLd
with Kev Groome
with Kev Groome
Mihkel 7 Sep, 2007 Lead The tyrolean was a highlight.
with Alexia Hereford
The tyrolean was a highlight.
with Alexia Hereford
Mihkel 2 Sep, 2007 Lead dnf Got as far as Clocher Pinnacle but rope got caught when pulling it after abbing, which chewed up loads of time, so we went down from there.
with Alexia Hereford
Got as far as Clocher Pinnacle but rope got caught when pulling it after abbing, which chewed up loads of time, so we went down from there.
with Alexia Hereford
Hidden ?Jun, 2007 AltLd
andybuckley ?Jul, 2006 AltLd Nice... must go back and do the 2nd and 3rd towers with the Tyrolean some time.
with Tom Whipple
Nice... must go back and do the 2nd and 3rd towers with the Tyrolean some time.
with Tom Whipple
Simon K 29 Aug, 2005 AltLd β Moved together, Rich coaching.
with PR + Rich Cross
Moved together, Rich coaching.
with PR + Rich Cross
MoWalker3 1 Aug, 2005 Solo
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
Martyn ?Aug, 2005 Lead dnf Bottled it!!!!
with James Williams
Bottled it!!!!
with James Williams
manmike ?Jul, 2005 Lead
with dan
with dan
tom_holdsworth 13 Sep, 2003 Lead 1st 2 pitches only. Then rapped off.
with Will Taylor
1st 2 pitches only. Then rapped off.
with Will Taylor
Jim Walton 8 Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S Soloed most of it
with Matthew Stammers
Soloed most of it
with Matthew Stammers
tompercy ?Jul, 1994 Solo
auld al ?Jul, 1993 AltLd O/S
Ken lindsay ??, 1993 AltLd O/S
with With Alan
with With Alan
Pete_Frost ??, 1989 - On Plas y Brenin course
On Plas y Brenin course
Hidden 22 Jul, 1988 -
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Voting
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Votes cast 13
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Votes cast 7
Votes cast 18
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