Rockfax Description
120m, 2 - 4 hours. A true alpine classic - this is one of the few routes anywhere involving a tyrolean! If the climbing is well within your comfort zone, you will only need quickdraws and slings as there is some fixed gear on every pitch, but possibly not quite enough for those who find these grades tricky. If in doubt, chuck in half a dozen wires and a couple of big cams.
Approach - From Planpraz, walk up the ski piste towards Brévent for 200m to a signpost which includes a sign to the Clocher-Clochetons Traverse. Follow the path for 50 minutes to reach the foot of the Clocher. It becomes vague in a boulderfield around the top of Hotel California but just keep heading upwards, following signs of wear and the path reappears.
1) 4b. Climb the west face of the Clochetons (the face that the approach path naturally brings you to) easily for 10m, then step right and follow flakes onto the South Face to the wide crack (4b) for 15m. The belay is an odd collection of metalwork but it all seems solid enough. This pitch can be protected with slings in the lower part and then there are sparse pegs and bolts once on the south face. If the climbing is near your limit you will want a couple of big cams for the upper section.
2) Make a 25m abseil from the last belay down a narrow gully on the north side of the peak to reach a ledge underneath the notch between the Clocher de Planpraz and the Petit Clocher.
3) 3b. Climb the steep wall (3b) above and then the easy slab to the top of the Petit Clocher.
4) Make a 20m abseil down the east face of the Petit Clocher to reach a sloping ledge. Another 25m abseil from here takes you to the foot of the 1st Clocheton.
5) 5a. Climb the crack (5a) up the west face of the first Clocheton. This looks tricky and steep, but the holds are good and there are pegs just where you need them. The pitch leads to a iron spike, which is the anchor for one side of the tyrolean.
6) A truly unique section! A ledge on the second Clochetons is 5m away and also has an iron spike. Lasso this (the debate rages about whether an underarm or overarm technique is better for this manoeuvre!) and make a tyrolean across to the second Clocheton. If lacking the appropriate lasso skills, it is possible to abseil 15m down the east face and then make another 25m abseil northwards to reach the descent path.
7) 4b. Climb the wall and slab (4b, two pegs) to the top of the second Clochetons.
8) A 20m abseil down the north face leads to the foot of the notorious final chimney.
9) 5a. Climb the chimney, with as much style as you can, past a jammed block with a sling round it which is used for protection/cheating. From the top of the chimney, pass through the rock hole and climb the slab to the top of the third Clocheton.
10) Make a 20m abseil down the east face and scramble down on an exposed path before crossing onto the north side of the ridge at a small notch. Walk/scramble back underneath the traverse and reclimb back to the foot of the first pitch.
Descent - Walk down to Planpraz on the Clocher-Clochetons approach path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic, short training climb. A small rack is sufficient, there is in situ gear for the abseils.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming.


ClimberDateStyle
Dougbart 29/Sep AltLd
with Ruban
DaveThexton 16/Sep AltLd O/S
with sarah, josh, Matt Groom, Tim Bevan
Hidden 16/Sep AltLd O/S
Finn Curry 28/Aug 2nd
with Paul Warnock
Hidden 26/Aug AltLd
BHuthers 25/Aug AltLd G/U

Tyrolean was entertaining, I fell out of the final chimney, started again from the ground and got it in one. I hate chimneys...

with George
GHawksworth 25/Aug AltLd O/S

Tyrolean was a fun challenge! final chimney is easy if you're tall and can bridge it. Out of the 6 people present, only the two over 6ft didn't have a mare on it.

rosatb 25/Aug AltLd O/S
with Hermione Toomey
calumhicks 20/Aug AltLd O/S

Indiana jones style! Very eliminate route, but worth it for the tyro

with Morna bernerna
Hidden 20/Aug -
Hidden 20/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug AltLd O/S
CameronH 17/Aug AltLd O/S
with Josh Abrahams, Will Kernick
Hidden 16/Aug Lead O/S
67hours 15/Aug Lead O/S

Definitely underarm.

with Oweeeen
Orange 28/Jul AltLd
with Louis Kennedy
Robbie Blease 28/Jul AltLd

Very fun!!!

Siongethinhill 28/Jul -
Siongethinhill 28/Jul -
EllieWoods 21/Jul AltLd O/S
with Rich
Maz J 21/Jul AltLd
with Simon Jones
Richard Alderton 21/Jul AltLd O/S
with Ellie
j.buckley87 19/Jul AltLd O/S
perrys 19/Jul AltLd O/S
with Ben Styles, Jo Boyd
bennys89 19/Jul AltLd
with perrys
bc44caesar 19/Jul AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 19/Jul AltLd O/S

A fantastic 5-person adventure, that by all accounts that should have been a fuster-cluck of tangled ropes, faff, and moving at a glacial pace. In actual fact we sped along in less than 3hrs- I had approach shoes on and tops off for power all day. Great day

Wendy Watthews 19/Jul AltLd

Got lost in the walk in but ended up in the right place. As a group of 5, sadly the tyrolorian rope caught first time limiting the fun that could be had trough multiple tries.

with Grant, JakeB., Luke, joe c
janegallwey 18/Jul AltLd O/S
kingjam 16/Jul Lead

Cracking fun route

Rob Royle 16/Jul 2nd
with Mountain Guide
DomTe 11/Jul 2nd

with Kellie Grice

Jack Manfredi 08/Jul -
with Dad
cwildblood 04/Jul -
Gerben Neven 04/Jul AltLd O/S
Tom.Sedgwick 04/Jul -
BenCollis 03/Jul Lead
themattyshep 27/Jun AltLd O/S
with Theo, Rob M
Rob_Morris1996 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Awesome route! Dropped a cam down the 5m slot at the top of the first pitch, a long length of rope with the nut key attachment meant everyone behind was held up while I went fishing! Got it in the end, then the most intense two minutes of bringing it up gently in order t not loose it again!! Tyrolean was awesome, not quite as smooth as the Scandinavians behind us, but they learnt from our mistakes! Watching Theo hump his way up the 'traditional' chimney was one of my fave moments from the trip!

with Theo Hayne, themattyshep
AlexD-L 24/Jun 2nd dnf

Coeliac climbing featuring slowest 4b pitch ever seconded followed by most hysterical abseil and slowest wander down the mountain possibly ever! Must come back to this one!!

steve_gibbs 24/Jun AltLd O/S
with Megan
Meganhwclark 24/Jun 2nd
adawson 24/Jun AltLd
with Steve Gibbs , Megan Clark , Duncan Edgley
duncanedgley 24/Jun AltLd
with adawson
Lucy Honychurch 23/Jun AltLd O/S
RhysRolfe 23/Jun 2nd rpt

Did the first pitch after hotel California.

with Lucy H
Hidden 23/Jun Lead O/S
RhysRolfe 20/Jun AltLd O/S

Led p1,2,4 forgot my climbing shoes but was ok in approach shoes. Wish I had brought the size 6 dragon for p1, p3 was fun, p5 was very unpleasant, resorted to aid to get past the block which is loose.

Hidden 20/Jun AltLd
piken 19/Jun Lead

Didnt need big boots and an axe!! no snow great fun - lots of rope work

with Jamie Carr
Eloise_SW 18/Jun AltLd dnf

Everything that could of gone wrong did. Delayed start due to que. Led first pitch, rope juust too short for three (clipped to bolt, untied middle rethread, changed to 8bite with crab for extra meter of rope) made it to top as the knot hit the belay. Group in front got rope stuck pulling it down from an ab, freed it but was tricky and took a while. Decided to sack off the route following the joint second and third abseil given the time. Met two women who had got their rope very stuck in a rock, supplied knife for them to save what rope they could and left our rope up for them to ab. We established a descent (no guidebook as it was left in the car we hitch hiked in to the lift), abed into a gully with our new friends following, as we descended one injured their knee, we stayed together. Missed the last lift (anticipated at the time of starting the route) decsended 'the vertical mile'. After they bought us burgers in Cham which was much appreciated :) Otherwise wonderful climbing - do this in future

with Conville, Sam Huguet
Steve Woollard 14/Jun AltLd dnf

Bailed from the first Clocheton due to impending thunderstorm

with Gavin
andrew.tyrrell 14/Jun AltLd O/S

Stunning route, and one of the best climbs I've done. Glad to have taken cams for the crack up south side of P1. Most interesting ab anchors I've ever used. Setting up the retrievable Tyrolean was an interesting little problem to solve but we managed it and crossing it was fantastic! Abbed off from the far side as that's when the thunder started. Didn't fancy the chimney pitch anyway. Aspirant guides ahead of us looked like they weren't having fun on it!

with Matt
matt_batchelor 14/Jun AltLd dnf
with Andrew
nathanjmasters 13/Jun AltLd
rosso 13/Jun AltLd O/S
with Nathan
mattdennies 12/Jun AltLd O/S

Tyrolean was good fun, hooked the spike on the first throw. Much faff later four of us were safely across. Didn't do last chimney due to chance of missing last lift (it looks awful anyway).

a_m154 12/Jun Lead

Led with Conor + Andy and Matt in front. Fab day, went too far left of the crack on the first pitch so did the 6a instead :) tyrolean was done by Andy and Matt on the first throw! Ended up missing chimney pitch due to running out of time to get the lift.

with Conor
Hidden ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Robbo1 06/Sep/16 -

Great day with Jonny

humptydumpty 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3, and the Tyrolean (what a mess!). Great fun route, lots of laughter and lots of swag.

Petarghh 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Ulgrid 22/Aug/16 AltLd

Brilliantly good fun and highly recommended. Dave got the Tyrolean Traverse hooked first time!

with Dave
Hidden 07/Aug/16 AltLd
bclifton 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Trevers 25/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Great fun, although some of the abseils are pretty awkward. Missed out the final pitch. Worthwhile for the Tyrolean alone.

with Will
Rachael88 25/Jul/16 AltLd

Well done to Adam & Will for finding the start of the route in the cloud. Great climbing, interesting abseils! and we did the tyrolen!

with Adam
BStar 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Missed out the last chimney as it looked horrid. Hard to find the route in the clag but we managed to find it by using a combinations of 2 guidebook descriptions. The route was good fun, the highlight being the Tyrolean. The first and third climbs are by far the better ones. HS 4b in the UK maybe, but there's lots of pegs and in situ tat. So much fun!

wjcdean 25/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

super good day. very atmospheric in the clag. didnt do the final chimney pitch as it looked a bit awful! tyrolean was great. bit of a nightmare getting back after going up the wrong gully to get back to the start

Andrew Lodge 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Ran out of time to do the Tyrolean so had to ab off but a great varied route.

Tony Ryland 19/Jul/16 AltLd

Got as far as the tyrolean but didn't want to miss the last cablecar

Storme 07/Jul/16 2nd

Tryolean was interesting.

Hidden 07/Jul/16 AltLd
Sarah Roscoe 01/Jul/16 AltLd
with Dave Humphries
Hidden 01/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Jake397 ?/Jul/16 -
with Storme England, Hamish
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
bencoope ??/2016 -

The approach notes fail to mention that you have to leave the main path at a bend and take a smaller path that is marked with a red cross. Following these approach notes will take you for a nice long walk to the Brevant lift

wi11 04/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Louisa Reynolds
davkeo 29/Aug/15 Solo O/S

Tyrolean traverse was fun.

Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Ken Applegate 07/Aug/15 AltLd

Continuation of Label Virginie. The Tyrolean was probably the highlight of the route!

with Andy Barker
Andrew Barker 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Mistakenly abseiled off the wrong side of the Clocher after Label Virginie. Then mistakenly climbed back up it via the 6a variation (hard in approach shoes). The traverse was fun, especially the tyrolean and taking my rucksack off halfway up the final chimney.

Benjaminblanc ?/Aug/15 AltLd rpt

All but the last chimney

with Joe Andrews
10029759 ?/Aug/15 AltLd
hairy51 ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Tony Ryland 30/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Did the Clocher but not the Clochetons

with Jonathan Davies
alexm198 02/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Pretty chilled route. Climbing is all very straightforward apart from the slippery final chimney! Tyrolean was good fun. Took about 2h45.

Hidden 02/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
alooker ?/Jul/15 Lead
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden 02/Sep/14 AltLd
Frank Blakeley 20/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 14/Aug/14 -
Andrew will wilson ?/Aug/14 AltLd

Cool

Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead
Francis Hardy 02/Jul/14 AltLd

With guide as part of the Conville course

Hidden 02/Jul/14 AltLd
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 27/Sep/13 AltLd
joe.91 27/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Really cool route, more abseiling than climbing though! Long walk in as the lifts are closed for the off season.

Hidden 29/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 18/Jul/13 Solo
with Dave Dewhurst
HosteDenis ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Mr. K 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Missed out the last needle as Chris' feet were disintegrating but still an amazing day out - did the optional tyrolean traverse.

Chris_Mullaney 07/Sep/12 2nd
with Mr. K
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 AltLd
AlexxelA 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Great fun, the tyrolean was novel if a bit short. Could be very time consuming if there wasnt a party ahead to catch the rope.

Tom Campbell ?/Jul/12 -
Colin Scotchford 12/Sep/11 -
chrissloan84 ?/Aug/11 -
with paul
Hidden 31/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 31/Jul/11 -
Poco Loco 25/Jul/11 AltLd

Great fun apart from one damp pitch!

with R. Horler, Bald Eagle
BALD EAGLE 25/Jul/11 AltLd
with Rob Horler, J.Pomeroy
Sinéad 10/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
RKernan 10/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

Got lost on the walk in, did the first pitch, abbed off the wrong way and had a terrifying experience with a dodgy anchor then backed off due to bad weather

Ashley Hold ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd
Dave Toseland 26/Aug/10 AltLd
with Jim
Vincej ?/Aug/10 2nd
with Paolo Intrepido
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
DebJ 08/Sep/09 2nd
with Al Powell, Chris & Terry
Souljah 05/Sep/09 AltLd

Big Fun

with Shaun
Hidden 30/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
tim20 ??/2009 -
shaun walby 10/Jul/08 AltLd
with Kev Groome
Hidden 07/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Jun/07 AltLd
andybuckley ?/Jul/06 AltLd

Nice... must go back and do the 2nd and 3rd towers with the Tyrolean some time.

with Tom Whipple
Simon K 29/Aug/05 AltLd β

Moved together, Rich coaching.

with PR + Rich Cross
MoWalker3 01/Aug/05 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Martyn ?/Aug/05 Lead dnf

Bottled it!!!!

with James Williams
manmike ?/Jul/05 Lead
with dan
tom_holdsworth 13/Sep/03 Lead

1st 2 pitches only. Then rapped off.

with Will Taylor
Jim Walton 08/Aug/96 AltLd O/S

Soloed most of it

with Matthew Stammers
tompercy ?/Jul/94 Solo
auld al ?/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
kennylind ??/1993 AltLd O/S
with With Alan
Pete_Frost ??/1989 -

On Plas y Brenin course

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