16m.

Rockfax Description
A well-travelled route now promoted to three stars by popular demand. Superb fingery flowstone climbing that has a technical lower wall and a powerful finish over the bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 06/Mar/1993

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Portland, The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour.

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ben Stokes 27 Sep, 2009 Show βeta
βeta: I have to agree with Andy - IMHO the above average quality of the headwall is not enough to make up for the poor condition of the middle section. There are routes more worthy of three stars than this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have to agree with Andy - IMHO the above average quality of the headwall is not enough to make up for the poor condition of the middle section. There are routes more worthy of three stars than this.
matt perks 29 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: After clipping the 2nd (or was it 3rd) bolt, I couldn't find any way straight through. The only reasonable solution seemed to slap out left and climb up a slight groove to the overlap, moving back right in passing this overlap. Certainly good moves but I didn't think it low in the grade - fair 7b but not obvious to on-sight.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After clipping the 2nd (or was it 3rd) bolt, I couldn't find any way straight through. The only reasonable solution seemed to slap out left and climb up a slight groove to the overlap, moving back right in passing this overlap. Certainly good moves but I didn't think it low in the grade - fair 7b but not obvious to on-sight.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
afterthesend 6 Oct Lead RP
Depaulo 13 Sep Lead RP Good interesting route will cool balance move at the top. Felt miles off on the on sight but was surprised to get it first RP.
Good interesting route will cool balance move at the top. Felt miles off on the on sight but was surprised to get it first RP.
Qisheng Xie 8 Sep Lead RP Technical section followed by an awesome hit and run power section
Technical section followed by an awesome hit and run power section
JCAshman 3 Sep Lead RP Good route, apart from the smeary/sandy feet on the first wall.
Good route, apart from the smeary/sandy feet on the first wall.
Emmett Arthur 31 Aug Lead dog nails.
nails.
FatAz 25 Aug TR dog
with Vince Ho
with Vince Ho
brices 18 Aug Lead dog Play at the end of the day. Still ace
Play at the end of the day. Still ace
drcorbasisgod 4 Aug Lead dog
igola 20 Jul Lead dog Great route, very fingery at 3rd clip, desperate move out right, sustained at the tufas. Needs a bit of work but should go next few goes.
Great route, very fingery at 3rd clip, desperate move out right, sustained at the tufas. Needs a bit of work but should go next few goes.
Ignas Va 14 Jul Lead dog
Stephattwood 13 Jul Lead dnf
Hidden 18 Apr Lead RP
Hidden 12 Apr Lead dog
Edpepper 6 Apr Lead RP
Hidden 6 Apr Lead dog
Hidden 29 Mar Lead dog
Lukechandler 24 Mar Lead RP
Edpepper 24 Mar Lead dog
Hidden 23 Feb Lead dog
dryvita 29 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Took a lot of figuring out but the actual send went like a dream. AMAZING route, worth all the effort
Took a lot of figuring out but the actual send went like a dream. AMAZING route, worth all the effort
BestPractice 8 Sep, 2018 Lead dog First look. One to project. All moves looked doable but hard (obvs). Looking forward to spending some quality time working this one....
with Christine
First look. One to project. All moves looked doable but hard (obvs). Looking forward to spending some quality time working this one....
with Christine
James Oakes 28 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
dryvita 27 Aug, 2018 Lead dog A little closer. From the ground to the poor rest and first organ pipe sorted and on a separate go from the pipe to the chains. Just that bastard hard clip in between them!
A little closer. From the ground to the poor rest and first organ pipe sorted and on a separate go from the pipe to the chains. Just that bastard hard clip in between them!
Mike W 19 Aug, 2018 Lead RP First readpoint
with Kitty27
First readpoint
with Kitty27
adamsriches 11 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Worked some on top rope in the drizzle and got a surprise send in a weather break. Tricky traverse out to the left and all guns through the roof
with dryvita
Worked some on top rope in the drizzle and got a surprise send in a weather break. Tricky traverse out to the left and all guns through the roof
with dryvita
adamsriches 28 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Worked through to the top need to try again and dial the sequence in.
Worked through to the top need to try again and dial the sequence in.
Edpepper 28 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 15 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Sam Head 10 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Great route. Felt hard 7b for me.
Great route. Felt hard 7b for me.
Hidden 17 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
afrosam 19 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
Jwatson 5 Nov, 2017 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
Jamie Jacques 20 Oct, 2017 Lead dog
samparsons 15 Oct, 2017 Lead RP Jeez that took alot out of me. Tough for the grade in my opinion but not my style either.
Jeez that took alot out of me. Tough for the grade in my opinion but not my style either.
Hidden 10 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 21 May, 2017 Lead dog
Lenny 17 Apr, 2017 TR dog
with Gayle
with Gayle
spidey 8 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Powerful crux. 2nd R.P, 2nd Sesh
with Daryl
Powerful crux. 2nd R.P, 2nd Sesh
with Daryl
Tomar 26 Mar, 2017 Lead RP Good to put this to bed. So tenuous yet powerful and pumpy. Awesome route!
with Iwona
Good to put this to bed. So tenuous yet powerful and pumpy. Awesome route!
with Iwona
spidey 25 Mar, 2017 TR dog Project
Project
Dandan 2 Jan, 2017 Lead RP Nice to tick this after missing out on the tick several years ago. Felt hard when working but went smoothly on redpoint. Took me a while to recall the left-right shuffle before the roof, spent a while trying to go direct through razor sharp monos!
Nice to tick this after missing out on the tick several years ago. Felt hard when working but went smoothly on redpoint. Took me a while to recall the left-right shuffle before the roof, spent a while trying to go direct through razor sharp monos!
Hidden 2 Jan, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 22 Oct, 2016 TR dog
Hidden 22 Oct, 2016 Lead dog
Rockmonkey1977 24 Sep, 2016 Lead dog Putting the qd's up for Tim (and me...) and I still can't work out how this is 7b or what the correct beta is, it just feels so hard. The feet seem really bad and the holds not much better. I must be missing something because I wouldn't even give it one star but hopefully i'll work it out at some point and love it like every one else. Only had the one 'go' as I really did not enjoy its at all (buzz kill!)...
Putting the qd's up for Tim (and me...) and I still can't work out how this is 7b or what the correct beta is, it just feels so hard. The feet seem really bad and the holds not much better. I must be missing something because I wouldn't even give it one star but hopefully i'll work it out at some point and love it like every one else. Only had the one 'go' as I really did not enjoy its at all (buzz kill!)...
brices 10 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
chrisscutt 10 Jul, 2016 Lead β
with si, ollie_e
with si, ollie_e
Paul Eckton 1 May, 2016 Lead dog
with Kevster
with Kevster
Hidden 1 May, 2016 Lead dnf
Kevster 1 May, 2016 Lead dnf Nesting birds on top ledge. Had to play on the bulge but figured a good sequence. Now got to remember it all for when the sea gulls aren't on top.
Nesting birds on top ledge. Had to play on the bulge but figured a good sequence. Now got to remember it all for when the sea gulls aren't on top.
Glyn 11 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Amy UT
with Amy UT
Tomar 12 Mar, 2016 Lead dog Onsight attempt went nowhere then stupidly fell off at the last clip on my 2nd Rp.
with JackMac
Onsight attempt went nowhere then stupidly fell off at the last clip on my 2nd Rp.
with JackMac
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 10 Sep, 2015 Lead dog Too hot for this today. Tough moves on the lower section.
Too hot for this today. Tough moves on the lower section.
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Antony87 11 Jul, 2015 Lead RP 2nd go today. Quality pitch!
2nd go today. Quality pitch!
stevedude888 11 Jul, 2015 Lead β Lean Bean
Lean Bean
pezzerrr 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Rockmonkey1977 8 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Project... Will be back.
Project... Will be back.
Antony87 30 May, 2015 Lead dog Worked out sequence for lower section
with Jade Love, Frank Castiello
Worked out sequence for lower section
with Jade Love, Frank Castiello
RFWilkie 19 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
Kris suriyo 12 Apr, 2015 Lead RP 2nd go after full off the last move on the onsite attempt the day befor
2nd go after full off the last move on the onsite attempt the day befor
philhaigh 11 Apr, 2015 2nd dog
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Vicki Hau, Barry Kerslake, EddyYoung, Gem Minihan
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Vicki Hau, Barry Kerslake, EddyYoung, Gem Minihan
Jonny_86 22 Mar, 2015 Lead β
with Tom
with Tom
Beefy Bert ??, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Dec, 2014 Lead RP
Jane Weir 1 Nov, 2014 Lead dnf
with Lee Mercer, AlexD
with Lee Mercer, AlexD
Jane Weir 1 Nov, 2014 TR dog
with AlexD
with AlexD
AlexD 1 Nov, 2014 Lead dnf
joe1joe1joe2 16 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Fell off what I consider the last move! Rocking over the bulge! Close but no cigar!
with Greg Headley
Fell off what I consider the last move! Rocking over the bulge! Close but no cigar!
with Greg Headley
Tommyads ??, 2014 - Varied and sustained. Found the crux (5th?) clip too hard so skipped it. Made the balancey finish moves extra cool!
Varied and sustained. Found the crux (5th?) clip too hard so skipped it. Made the balancey finish moves extra cool!
Hidden 4 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
Ed Babs 12 Apr, 2013 Lead RP The only remaining question is how to make the clip above the roof? And the answer is... from the pinch. : )
with Vicky Hau, Mike Hawkins, Rob Kennard
The only remaining question is how to make the clip above the roof? And the answer is... from the pinch. : )
with Vicky Hau, Mike Hawkins, Rob Kennard
DorsetGareth 5 Apr, 2013 Lead dog Another one to come back for.
Another one to come back for.
Hidden 22 Oct, 2012 TR dog
EmilyElouise 21 Oct, 2012 2nd dnf
Hidden 21 Oct, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 8 Oct, 2012 Lead RP
brices 6 Oct, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go brilliant route
with Laurent
2nd go brilliant route
with Laurent
Ross Davidson 6 Oct, 2012 Lead dnf Great moves, just was too spent to pull upto the 4th clip after the cru. Will be back
with Duma
Great moves, just was too spent to pull upto the 4th clip after the cru. Will be back
with Duma
alek 26 Aug, 2012 Lead dnf
with JayK
with JayK
Hidden 26 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
Dan_Carroll 18 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
JHM 24 May, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 TR β
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 TR dog
GarethHall 25 Mar, 2012 Lead dog Project...:-)
Project...:-)
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 Lead
natalietanzer 15 Mar, 2012 Lead dog hard and reachy but good moves, gotta go back n do it clean.
with Dan Gibson
hard and reachy but good moves, gotta go back n do it clean.
with Dan Gibson
rubben 3 Mar, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go. 1st time this time but tried before in past.
with Marcus O'Leary
2nd go. 1st time this time but tried before in past.
with Marcus O'Leary
innes ??, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
matt perks ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 26 Nov, 2011 Lead dog
Dan_Carroll 6 Nov, 2011 Lead dog
with Mateusz
with Mateusz
Toby Dunn 6 Nov, 2011 Lead good moves, dirty rock on first half, excellent micro tufa on the second.
with Lyndsay Hilton
good moves, dirty rock on first half, excellent micro tufa on the second.
with Lyndsay Hilton
Misha 9 Jul, 2011 Lead RP Very pleased to get this second go, particularly as I found it pretty tough on the first go. Was useful to get the beta from belaying Mike on it. Knowing the moves made a massive difference. No real crux but pretty sustained.
with Mike Todd, Ian W
Very pleased to get this second go, particularly as I found it pretty tough on the first go. Was useful to get the beta from belaying Mike on it. Knowing the moves made a massive difference. No real crux but pretty sustained.
with Mike Todd, Ian W
Perryman 3 Jul, 2011 Lead
with GUY DAVENPORT
with GUY DAVENPORT
jgustafsson 14 May, 2011 Lead RP 1st rp today. Had previously a couple of goes in boiling conditions over Easter weekend. Good route, and quite high in the grade.
with Pino
1st rp today. Had previously a couple of goes in boiling conditions over Easter weekend. Good route, and quite high in the grade.
with Pino
Pippa 14 May, 2011 2nd
jgustafsson 25 Apr, 2011 Lead dog dogged this, and had two goes on top rope. unobvious sequences that feel much more doable when you know how. Managed to do with one hang, but temps and tiredness stopped me from a proper RP attempt today. One to come back for.
with Jen
dogged this, and had two goes on top rope. unobvious sequences that feel much more doable when you know how. Managed to do with one hang, but temps and tiredness stopped me from a proper RP attempt today. One to come back for.
with Jen
Jonathan Emett 25 Apr, 2011 TR dog got the moves i think, not so sure about the clips tho...
got the moves i think, not so sure about the clips tho...
Antony87 10 Apr, 2011 2nd dog Was tasked with cleaning the route after Ted's magnificent onsight. The middle section is very technical.
Was tasked with cleaning the route after Ted's magnificent onsight. The middle section is very technical.
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 20 Nov, 2010 Lead RP
givemetea 27 Sep, 2010 TR dog Hard! Moves up to roof seem doable but move over roof was nails - either didn't have enough reach or power. One to come back for.
with Dyrla, Hannah Heywood
Hard! Moves up to roof seem doable but move over roof was nails - either didn't have enough reach or power. One to come back for.
with Dyrla, Hannah Heywood
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
dan gibson 4 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 24 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 7 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
3 Names 4 Jul, 2010 TR dog
Dandan ?Jun, 2010 Lead dog
with Lard
with Lard
Hidden ?Jun, 2010 Lead β
La Mont 31 May, 2010 Lead rpt
with vertigo
with vertigo
eddieclimb ?May, 2010 Lead RP
with Rebecca Edwards
with Rebecca Edwards
rubben 23 Apr, 2010 Lead dog One for my return... Where the route goes left to easy (good) holds, I was trying to go direct...which is desparate...this is the beta given to me by climbing partners...after we all failed, I looked at the topo and it goes left...humph! Ah well...next time! Quite tough at the bottom and a powerful sequence going over the roof to flowstone, but otherwise great!
with Marcus O'Leary
One for my return... Where the route goes left to easy (good) holds, I was trying to go direct...which is desparate...this is the beta given to me by climbing partners...after we all failed, I looked at the topo and it goes left...humph! Ah well...next time! Quite tough at the bottom and a powerful sequence going over the roof to flowstone, but otherwise great!
with Marcus O'Leary
Hidden 8 Apr, 2010 TR dog
Richard Horn 4 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 18 Jul, 2009 Lead dnf hard : )
with vertigo
hard : )
with vertigo
trev_f 10 Jul, 2009 TR dog
with Jon
with Jon
billb ?Jul, 2009 Lead
with Lee
with Lee
Leeds 7 May, 2009 Lead dog
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
Paz 16 Nov, 2008 Lead dog 1 go at the RP, on which I couldn't do a move.
1 go at the RP, on which I couldn't do a move.
dannyboy83 16 Feb, 2008 Lead RP
with dmoir
with dmoir
feilx 16 Feb, 2008 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 25 Oct, 2007 Lead RP 2.try too cold
2.try too cold
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
richgac ?Sep, 2006 Lead RP First 7b. 3 attempts
First 7b. 3 attempts
bigie bob 15 Aug, 2006 Lead RP
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Jake Shaw ??, 2005 Lead RP
Rob Kinsey ??, 2002 -
with JamesR, joe lenham
with JamesR, joe lenham
John Southworth 4 May, 2000 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Eduardo Martinez 7 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 29 May, 1995 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
67 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set