Rockfax Description
A well-travelled route now promoted to three stars by popular demand. Superb fingery flowstone climbing that has a technical lower wall and a powerful finish over the bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 06/Mar/1993

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Portland.

Linc 02/Jan Lead dog
with Kay
Dandan82 02/Jan Lead RP

Nice to tick this after missing out on the tick several years ago. Felt hard when working but went smoothly on redpoint. Took me a while to recall the left-right shuffle before the roof, spent a while trying to go direct through razor sharp monos!

Hidden 22/Oct/16 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Oct/16 TR dog
Rockmonkey1977 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

Putting the qd's up for Tim (and me...) and I still can't work out how this is 7b or what the correct beta is, it just feels so hard. The feet seem really bad and the holds not much better. I must be missing something because I wouldn't even give it one star but hopefully i'll work it out at some point and love it like every one else. Only had the one 'go' as I really did not enjoy its at all (buzz kill!)...

brices 10/Jul/16 Lead rpt
chrisscutt 10/Jul/16 Lead β
with si, oly
samparsons 05/Jul/16 Lead dog

Jeez that was much harder than I was excepting probable didn't help being one of the hottest days of the year and a nest of birds at the top.

Kevster 01/May/16 Lead dnf

Nesting birds on top ledge. Had to play on the bulge but figured a good sequence. Now got to remember it all for when the sea gulls aren't on top.

Hidden 01/May/16 Lead dnf
Glyn 11/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Amy
Tomar 12/Mar/16 Lead dog

Onsight attempt went nowhere then stupidly fell off at the last clip on my 2nd Rp.

with Jack
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 10/Sep/15 Lead dog

Too hot for this today. Tough moves on the lower section.

Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead RP
pezzerrr 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
stevedude888 11/Jul/15 Lead β

Lean Bean

with Ant
Linc 20/Jun/15 Lead RP
with louis
Rockmonkey1977 08/Jun/15 Lead dog

Project... Will be back.

Hidden 30/May/15 Lead dog
RFWilkie 19/Apr/15 Lead dog
Kris suriyo 12/Apr/15 Lead RP

2nd go after full off the last move on the onsite attempt the day befor

with Gary
philhaigh 11/Apr/15 2nd dog
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Vicki Hau, Barry Kerslake, Eddy Young, Gem Minihan
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead β
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead RP
AlexD 01/Nov/14 Lead dnf
Jane Weir 01/Nov/14 Lead dnf
with Lee Mercer, Alex Dennis
Jane Weir 01/Nov/14 TR dog
joe1joe1joe2 16/Jun/14 Lead dog

Fell off what I consider the last move! Rocking over the bulge! Close but no cigar!

with Greg Headley
Tommyads ??/2014 -

Varied and sustained. Found the crux (5th?) clip too hard so skipped it. Made the balancey finish moves extra cool!

Laurence Everitt 04/Jun/13 Lead dog

Nice, went out left at the bottom, know what to do but felt pretty tired.

Ed Babs 12/Apr/13 Lead RP

The only remaining question is how to make the clip above the roof? And the answer is... from the pinch. : )

with Vicky Hau, Mike Hawkins, Rob Kennard
DorsetGareth 05/Apr/13 Lead dog

Another one to come back for.

Hidden 22/Oct/12 TR dog
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 21/Oct/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 08/Oct/12 Lead RP
brices 06/Oct/12 Lead RP

2nd go brilliant route

with Laurent
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead dnf
alek 26/Aug/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead RP
Dan_Carroll 18/Aug/12 Lead RP
Jeronimo 24/May/12 Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 07/Apr/12 TR β
Hidden 06/Apr/12 TR dog
GarethHall 25/Mar/12 Lead dog


Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
natalietanzer 15/Mar/12 Lead dog

hard and reachy but good moves, gotta go back n do it clean.

with Dan Gibson
rubben 03/Mar/12 Lead RP

2nd go. 1st time this time but tried before in past.

with Marcus O'Leary
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
innes ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Hidden 26/Nov/11 Lead dog
Toby Dunn 06/Nov/11 Lead

good moves, dirty rock on first half, excellent micro tufa on the second.

with Lyndsay Hilton
Dan_Carroll 06/Nov/11 Lead dog
with Mateusz
Misha 09/Jul/11 Lead RP

Very pleased to get this second go, particularly as I found it pretty tough on the first go. Was useful to get the beta from belaying Mike on it. Knowing the moves made a massive difference. No real crux but pretty sustained.

with Mike T, Ian W
Perryman 03/Jul/11 Lead
jgustafsson 14/May/11 Lead RP

1st rp today. Had previously a couple of goes in boiling conditions over Easter weekend. Good route, and quite high in the grade.

with Pino
Pippa 14/May/11 2nd
with Jon
Jonathan Emett 25/Apr/11 TR dog

got the moves i think, not so sure about the clips tho...

with Lyndsay
jgustafsson 25/Apr/11 Lead dog

dogged this, and had two goes on top rope. unobvious sequences that feel much more doable when you know how. Managed to do with one hang, but temps and tiredness stopped me from a proper RP attempt today. One to come back for.

with Jen
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead RP
givemetea 27/Sep/10 TR dog

Hard! Moves up to roof seem doable but move over roof was nails - either didn't have enough reach or power. One to come back for.

with Dyrla, Hannah Heywood
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead RP
dan gibson 04/Sep/10 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
dav 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Gill B
jacobjacob 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
3 Names 04/Jul/10 TR dog
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead β
Dandan82 ?/Jun/10 Lead dog
La Mont 31/May/10 Lead rpt
eddieclimb ?/May/10 Lead RP
with Rebecca Edwards
rubben 23/Apr/10 Lead dog

One for my return... Where the route goes left to easy (good) holds, I was trying to go direct...which is desparate...this is the beta given to me by climbing partners...after we all failed, I looked at the topo and it goes left...humph! Ah well...next time! Quite tough at the bottom and a powerful sequence going over the roof to flowstone, but otherwise great!

with Marcus O'Leary
Hidden 08/Apr/10 TR dog
Richard Horn 04/Oct/09 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 18/Jul/09 Lead dnf

hard : )

trev_f 10/Jul/09 TR dog
with Jon
billb ?/Jul/09 Lead
with Lee
Leeds 07/May/09 Lead dog
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Paz 16/Nov/08 Lead dog

1 go at the RP, on which I couldn't do a move.

with MK
dannyboy83 16/Feb/08 Lead RP
feilx 16/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Tiff
Martin Krasnansky 25/Oct/07 Lead RP

2.try too cold

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 15/Aug/06 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Jake Shaw ??/2005 Lead RP
John Southworth 04/May/00 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Mike Owen 29/May/95 -
with Elaine Owen
37 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set