28m.

Rockfax Description
A popular line with good moves and rock. Start at a crack-line in the lower wall. Move up the lower wall and climb directly up the wall above to a technical finale. © Rockfax

FA. Nic Hellyer 18/Apr/1999

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland, Gwenland, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Alun 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The problem with this route is that it is too easy to break out right 2/3 of the way up and finish up the Lord Stublock... groove. IMO the routes here are all a little squished together.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The problem with this route is that it is too easy to break out right 2/3 of the way up and finish up the Lord Stublock... groove. IMO the routes here are all a little squished together.
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: lovely technical crux right where it should be. at the top. and the climbing to get there was superb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: lovely technical crux right where it should be. at the top. and the climbing to get there was superb.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
emmafizzle 13 Sep Lead dnf Was all going well until a hold broke and I fell. Got back on and climb a bit more but got the fear when it started to look blank and bailed. Dumb!
Was all going well until a hold broke and I fell. Got back on and climb a bit more but got the fear when it started to look blank and bailed. Dumb!
billabonggaz 11 Aug - 28m
28m
Whitey Pinkrope 6 Jul TR dog
with Hicksy's
with Hicksy's
katiemowbray 22 Jun Lead O/S
Tomas P 20 Jun Lead O/S
with Summer, Aelita
with Summer, Aelita
Abi Chard 9 Jun Lead O/S
Whitey Pinkrope 18 May TR dog
with Hicksy's
with Hicksy's
Paddy Bos Coe 12 May Lead dnf Really enjoyable climbing. Fell twice at the very top (the crux) before traversing left onto the chains for Burning Skies. Pumped out of my mind. Looking forward to trying again
Really enjoyable climbing. Fell twice at the very top (the crux) before traversing left onto the chains for Burning Skies. Pumped out of my mind. Looking forward to trying again
Ignas Va 11 May Lead RP
thunderstruck 11 May Lead RP
Whitey Pinkrope 6 May TR dnf
billabonggaz 2 May - 28M
28M
billabonggaz 15 Apr - 28m
28m
Jamie Hoare 7 Apr Lead dog Got on what I thought was the 6b, I was wrong. The route felt fine, it took me a longtime to find the holds in amongst all the features and I was too pumped by the crux a tough crimp onto an obvious feature before a left finger pocket
with Tom Breddal
Got on what I thought was the 6b, I was wrong. The route felt fine, it took me a longtime to find the holds in amongst all the features and I was too pumped by the crux a tough crimp onto an obvious feature before a left finger pocket
with Tom Breddal
Hidden 25 Mar Lead O/S
Whitey Pinkrope 2 Mar TR dog
Ignas Va 23 Feb Lead dog
JorgeR 23 Feb Lead dog
thunderstruck 23 Feb Lead dog Went to the wrong anchor
Went to the wrong anchor
JorgeR 23 Feb Lead dog
julesmckim 15 Feb Lead O/S Excellent finish where it steepens with some nice crimping and flake pulling
with Astrid
Excellent finish where it steepens with some nice crimping and flake pulling
with Astrid
Hidden 17 Nov, 2018 Lead dog
Edpepper 27 Oct, 2018 Lead β
AF Webb 28 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf
with Sophie
with Sophie
Hidden 4 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
chris85 ?Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Daz Devey 24 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Phil Davidson 24 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 20 May, 2018 Lead β Larry had put the qd’s up until the top crux but bailed from there so I can’t claim the onsight, but it kind of was... Pumpy, technical climbing with a few points requiring good route reading decisions. Enjoyable.
Larry had put the qd’s up until the top crux but bailed from there so I can’t claim the onsight, but it kind of was... Pumpy, technical climbing with a few points requiring good route reading decisions. Enjoyable.
Paddy Bos Coe 12 May, 2018 Lead dog Climbed the wrong route. A tad out of my depth but i figured it out.
Climbed the wrong route. A tad out of my depth but i figured it out.
Misha 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Decent route, fairly steady until a short and sharp crux high up involving a bit of technical bridging and long moves. Draws in.
Decent route, fairly steady until a short and sharp crux high up involving a bit of technical bridging and long moves. Draws in.
TwofoZeus 21 Apr, 2018 Lead
Michael Bortoluzzi 21 Apr, 2018 Lead β Knowing where the crux was from the book really helped. Also saw Simon fall off the crux so knew where to expect it, didn't quite feel like an onsight.
Knowing where the crux was from the book really helped. Also saw Simon fall off the crux so knew where to expect it, didn't quite feel like an onsight.
Hidden 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 25 Mar, 2018 2nd β
with Dan Verge
with Dan Verge
Dandan 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Really decent route, lots of variety.
Really decent route, lots of variety.
jjdaly 15 Mar, 2018 Lead RP
with tsyrett
with tsyrett
afterthesend 13 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
adamsriches 3 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
with Elodie
with Elodie
tonevert 15 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Paloma
with Paloma
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
Emily Y 25 Jun, 2017 Lead
hfotheri 16 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
richsmithinbristol 9 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Think I did this years ago
Think I did this years ago
samparsons 2 Apr, 2017 Lead β
Paul Eckton 11 Mar, 2017 Lead dog
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 11 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
Pete Scott 6 Nov, 2016 Lead β
with tsyrett
with tsyrett
tsyrett 6 Nov, 2016 Lead
Hidden 6 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
tsyrett 30 Oct, 2016 TR O/S
tsyrett 30 Oct, 2016 Lead dog Tried to go left at the crux which worked on top rope. Made the move out right after a rest but too pumped to try it again from the start.
Tried to go left at the crux which worked on top rope. Made the move out right after a rest but too pumped to try it again from the start.
Shamina 9 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
brian watson 5 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
with Shamina, Mike Hawkins
with Shamina, Mike Hawkins
Hidden 31 Jul, 2016 Lead
Hidden 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Livia 22 May, 2016 Lead β my second flash ever!
with Adam
my second flash ever!
with Adam
philhaigh 2 Apr, 2016 2nd rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Ed Babs, Mike Gubbins, Jane Weir, melD, Gem Minihan, nataliehaigh
with Aarron Schofield, Ed Babs, Mike Gubbins, Jane Weir, melD, Gem Minihan, nataliehaigh
Brian H 25 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
alice fuller 25 Mar, 2016 Lead RP Went first.. and missed the Hannon beta...didn't use brain to get decent bridge position to put the draw in.got too pumped to clip it as well:).Easy on the second go.Ace route
with Brian H
Went first.. and missed the Hannon beta...didn't use brain to get decent bridge position to put the draw in.got too pumped to clip it as well:).Easy on the second go.Ace route
with Brian H
Tomar 5 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with JackMac
with JackMac
Flavio 22 Nov, 2015 Lead dog
rajeshwarbisht 22 Nov, 2015 TR dnf
with Flavio
with Flavio
London Luke ?Oct, 2015 Lead
with Tim_C7
with Tim_C7
JoeE 19 Sep, 2015 Lead dog Was meant to be on the 6b+...
with Marc Griffiths
Was meant to be on the 6b+...
with Marc Griffiths
Hidden 30 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf
JackMac 16 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Very enjoyable route.
Very enjoyable route.
BC 16 Aug, 2015 Lead
Ian Bell 9 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S V nice especially the top which is classic Portland style. Felt fairly steady, maybe stamina training is working!
V nice especially the top which is classic Portland style. Felt fairly steady, maybe stamina training is working!
Hidden 4 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf
Thumbspragger 22 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Robheirene 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Thought I was on Lord Stublock. Still worthy of 3 stars
Thought I was on Lord Stublock. Still worthy of 3 stars
philhaigh 30 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Mar, 2015 TR rpt
Hidden 24 Jan, 2015 TR dog
Hidden 15 Nov, 2014 2nd β
elyben 19 Aug, 2014 Lead dog
bigdrew 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with eel
with eel
eel 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andy J
with Andy J
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Sam Head 14 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Dizz 13 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Thought it was hard for 6b+! On wrong route :)
with Sadie
Thought it was hard for 6b+! On wrong route :)
with Sadie
ian d f 1 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
with Paul K
with Paul K
stp 25 May, 2014 Lead O/S Nothing harder than 5c on this. Has a big feel to it with the hardest climbing at the top.
with Alan - old
Nothing harder than 5c on this. Has a big feel to it with the hardest climbing at the top.
with Alan - old
sarpedon 8 Mar, 2014 Lead rpt
Barry Kerslake 8 Mar, 2014 Lead RP
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
AlexD 8 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with James Doc, sarpedon
with James Doc, sarpedon
Stroppy 16 Feb, 2014 Lead dnf Thought this was the 6b+ next door, end of the day, injured leg, it wasn't happening.
with Sarp Ackay
Thought this was the 6b+ next door, end of the day, injured leg, it wasn't happening.
with Sarp Ackay
sarpedon 16 Feb, 2014 Lead dog Got on it thinking it was the 6b+. Fell at the crux once throwing blindly for a bad hold. Gutted that I missed the onsight.
with BenL
Got on it thinking it was the 6b+. Fell at the crux once throwing blindly for a bad hold. Gutted that I missed the onsight.
with BenL
BenL 16 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S
shaun.yandell ?Aug, 2013 TR O/S
dan gibson 13 May, 2013 Lead rpt
with alice thompson
with alice thompson
drcorbasisgod 23 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
brices 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S really fun route
really fun route
Hidden 6 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt
DannyK 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Katie
with Katie
Hidden 3 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
DannyK 28 Jul, 2012 Lead dog
with Katie
with Katie
climbergg 1 Jul, 2012 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 1 Jul, 2012 Lead moved left at top to set up tr on the 6b+, top groove will have to wait for another day
moved left at top to set up tr on the 6b+, top groove will have to wait for another day
Ross Davidson 11 Mar, 2012 Lead dog Lead as a warm up thinking it was burning skies, and was surprised that a 6b+ seemed so hard. Hard moves near the top
with Tomar
Lead as a warm up thinking it was burning skies, and was surprised that a 6b+ seemed so hard. Hard moves near the top
with Tomar
burto 9 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with steve
with steve
Toby Dunn 15 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
dan gibson 22 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
with julie carroll
Jonathan Emett 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S had forgotten both the climb and that I had ever been on it, so claiming the onsight :-)
with claudio
had forgotten both the climb and that I had ever been on it, so claiming the onsight :-)
with claudio
Hidden 29 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
Bristoldave 20 Mar, 2011 Lead Fell off easy section at the bottom when a hold broke. Onsighted the rest
Fell off easy section at the bottom when a hold broke. Onsighted the rest
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Joe Grondowski 5 Sep, 2010 Lead
with Andy Grondowski
with Andy Grondowski
natalietanzer 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Sabrina
with Sabrina
feilx 17 Jan, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 15 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 11 Apr, 2009 Lead
Billg 14 Feb, 2009 Lead rpt
with SeanyC
with SeanyC
Jane Weir ??, 2009 Lead
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
vertigo 7 Dec, 2008 Lead RP 1st RP. Really good!
1st RP. Really good!
tobydunford 18 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 18 Oct, 2008 2nd dog
Hidden 12 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 12 Sep, 2008 Lead dog one fall after missing the sequence, thought it was the 6b+
one fall after missing the sequence, thought it was the 6b+
ThomasB ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S 1st 6c+ onsight!
1st 6c+ onsight!
feilx 17 Aug, 2008 Lead rpt
with Mark T
with Mark T
Richard Horn 20 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 14 Jun, 2008 Lead RP much easier than i found it in 2006.
with David S
much easier than i found it in 2006.
with David S
dannyboy83 16 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with dmoir
with dmoir
La Mont ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden 18 Nov, 2006 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ?Oct, 2006 -
Jus ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
brian watson ??, 2006 Lead β
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
feilx ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with keith
with keith
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Mark Stevenson 20 Mar, 2005 Lead rpt
Hidden 12 Mar, 2005 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 22 Mar, 2003 2nd dog
with Geraldine Taylor
with Geraldine Taylor
just one more 21 Sep, 2002 Lead
with Svenn G
with Svenn G
John Southworth 10 Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
Billg ?Mar, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??, 2000 -
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Kevster ??, 1996 Lead
20 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set