Rockfax Description
Another quality line that is at the bottom of the grade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fully retroed By DBF June 17

FA. H.Venables. FFA. Steve Taylor 3.10.93 15/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Portland, Portland 15 (7's), Spanish crew 2018.

ben1234 07/Jan TR dog
with Colin Walker, Derek Billings
derryclimbs 07/Jan TR dog

worked the route. found the top section the hardest. will be back to figure it out.

with ben1234
Hidden 19/Nov/17 Lead RP
gem_stone12 06/Nov/17 Lead O/S
adamsriches 04/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/17 TR dnf
cdpuk 15/Oct/17 Lead RP

So close to getting the onsight! 1st RP.

Bones [:B 06/Oct/17 TR rpt
guy127917 06/Oct/17 Lead RP
with Jen
PaddyFreer 29/Sep/17 2nd dnf
with freec
freec 29/Sep/17 Lead dog

finally getting through the crux reliably from ground, now falling off in the same place just above every time, then get back on and do the move no problems, so frustrating!

nacnud 17/Sep/17 Lead rpt
with Ed Wigmore
chancer 28/Aug/17 Lead dog
with Ed Wigmore
robburgundy 24/Aug/17 Lead

First 7! Fifth session of trying

with Pete
benoneill13 15/Aug/17 Lead dog
Carnie Lisa 12/Aug/17 2nd dog
with Dan Verge
Dandan82 12/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Jack.H.92 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Emily
emmafizzle 07/Aug/17 Lead RP

First go!

Hidden 06/Aug/17 Lead RP
Chops 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
emmafizzle 03/Aug/17 Lead dog

Fell at the same spot at the top every time. Got the climb dialed just need to sort the top out. Ah! How annoying!

julesmckim 01/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Pleased to get this on-sight at the end of the day. Sustained crimping on the upper wall with some frantic piano playing to find the right placements for the fingers.

AlexBclimbing 31/Jul/17 Lead dog
S.Kew 18/Jul/17 Lead dog

End of day play. Done in 2 sections after sorting top section beta. Would need to be fresh as top section sharp.

Andre Clarke 16/Jul/17 Lead dnf
with Tommy Harris
hervenuttall ?/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Marcus & The Ellis Brigham Crew
quiffhanger 25/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Pretty mingin'. Guess my tastes have changed in the last 4 years - zero recollection I'd done this before!

with Rachel
Saurusrock 22/Jun/17 Lead dog

Was gutted to miss out on the onsight. Went slightly wrong on the crimp section at the end and found myself a little too high to correct it. Was planning to get it clean, but had to leave early. Will come back!

with Rob Wilson, Josh Short
Bones [:B 17/Jun/17 TR dog
guy127917 17/Jun/17 Lead dog

Sorted it all out ready to redpoint but way too hot! Another day...

with Jen
patrickcd 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Doug
dohart 13/Jun/17 TR dnf

Small crimps and feet didn't seem particularly inspiring either. No idea how to do this

with Patrick
mark20 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
rockafunked 04/Jun/17 Lead RP

I think it feels soft because the difficulties are limited to a 12-15 move boulder problem.

Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Jun/17 TR rpt
haribotheclimber 02/Jun/17 Lead RP
Jack93 02/Jun/17 Lead O/S
rachelvlc 21/May/17 Lead
with Luke
Hidden 07/May/17 TR dnf
Hidden 29/Apr/17 Lead RP
Hmgslade 29/Apr/17 2nd RP
with Jack
Hidden 29/Apr/17 Lead dog
robgixer 19/Apr/17 Lead dog
luke glaister 15/Apr/17 TR O/S
with Jimmysmith1577, Ed Atkinson , Daniel sol wardel
hfotheri 14/Apr/17 Lead dnf
MarcinK 10/Apr/17 TR RP
with Andrzej, Monika, Piotr Slezak
Russell Blackaller 05/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Tom N
Pete Scott 02/Apr/17 Lead β
tsyrett 02/Apr/17 Lead G/U
Gabe Oliver 19/Mar/17 Lead

1 fall from top crux due to numb fingers and/or faffing

George Killaspy 19/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/17 TR
Roland stopps 11/Mar/17 Lead
Kevster 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Feb/17 TR dog
Julie Carroll 23/Jan/17 Lead RP
with Robbie Canavan
pymn nice but dim ??/2017 Lead RP
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 28/Dec/16 Lead dog
WillRobertson 28/Dec/16 Lead rpt

Repeat to put the draws in for Sally.

tonevert 30/Oct/16 Lead dog
with Paloma
chrismadar 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S

A nice line with a pretty cool crux! Went first go which I wasn't expecting as had just jumped on after someone couldn't finish it.

brian watson 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Joris.Roulleau 01/Oct/16 Lead dog
with Rikki
Montecore 01/Oct/16 Lead dnf

Not feeling strong and also didn't much like the rock. Joris got up it eventually after sitting around and making many false starts on the crux

with Joris Roulleau
HannahT 11/Sep/16 TR

Really pleased that I did it. Tried it a few times before but this time felt very easy.

with Abi, Martin
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead dnf
birks3746 27/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Im going to play the "its reachy and its too warm" excuse card. Couldn't figure out the sequence post the big undercut.

with Alice Browne
Roland stopps 14/Aug/16 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Aug/16 TR
WillRobertson 21/Jul/16 Lead RP

Second go, took a few falls on the onsight trying to figure out the crux. Greasy little crimps in the hot sun!

Hidden 21/Jul/16 TR dog
td72 03/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Calvin perrins
JackMac 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Nikki_C
kingborris 26/Jun/16 Lead dog
with Simon
katiep 18/Jun/16 Lead RP

Second go today. I was misled into going right at the under-cling and took about 4 attempts to figure out the actual sequence!

with Roger
afterthesend 07/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Sam P
JPGR 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
BeastintheWest 30/May/16 Lead RP
with Paul Roberts
EmilyElouise 28/May/16 Lead β
with Vicky and Helen
vickydavies 28/May/16 Lead RP
with Emily, Helen Gardiner
LJC 28/May/16 -
Hidden 15/May/16 -
HannahT 12/May/16 TR dog

with Abi, Martin
professorcobra 08/May/16 Lead RP
GrahamGiles 08/May/16 Lead RP

Not the best route for a pulley injury... Very technical boulder problem in between good climbing

with Kim Lukas, Joanne
Hidden 01/May/16 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 01/May/16 Lead dog
Hidden 01/May/16 Lead β
La Mont 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Will
mop449 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S

First pure 7a onsight

with Sam Clark
RadekNowak 10/Apr/16 Lead RP
artmal 10/Apr/16 Lead RP
jacob shieldhouse hadley 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S

bolts not spaced, amazing crozzly pocket climbing, bit snappy, 3 stars imo

with mum
Hidden 29/Dec/15 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Martin Bagshaw 06/Sep/15 Lead RP

Nearly onsighted the bastard, but went up wrong handed towards the top. 2nd go and first clean 7a (though easy for the grade).

with Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 06/Sep/15 2nd
Katsmiff 06/Sep/15 2nd
Katsmiff 06/Sep/15 2nd
tommccluskey 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Jess
Gloria 30/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Clean until final clip. Many attempts at the two finger ledge crux on my first 7a lead

with Bekah Ryder, Tim Beeston
Nick Sherring 30/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Ok up to the crux section, but small crimps were way to greasy in the humid conditions. Would be better in dry conditions.

katiep 26/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Got stuck at the crux - couldn't figure out how to use such tiny crimps!

Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead dog
Sam4242 18/Jul/15 Lead G/U
marcduhig 18/Jul/15 Lead dog

Tops nails.

Robheirene 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Very nice climbing. Bolts didn't seem too spaced in response to previous comments, especially not compared with some of the other routes on the island.

clarekissane ?/Jul/15 Lead

too short for one move!!

SDM 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf
with Michael
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead dog
ArrMcC 07/Jun/15 Lead dog

Toooo hot to climb hard. Nice route and cool moves.

Chloe 07/Jun/15 Lead dog

Very difficult in the heat. Bolts too spaced!

with Arran
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead β
tsyrett 24/May/15 Lead dog

the sea mist rolled in and the upper crimps became to greasy

tsyrett 24/May/15 TR RP
leglesslizard 16/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/15 TR
Hidden 28/Apr/15 TR dog
Hidden 11/Apr/15 Lead RP
paultaylor 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Rupey 07/Mar/15 Lead RP
with Barry, alan
marcb 16/Feb/15 Lead dog
with Ben
Hidden 12/Feb/15 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Feb/15 Lead dnf
sam_craddock 06/Dec/14 Lead RP
with Phil Belcher
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead dog
Marti999 20/Oct/14 Lead rpt
AlexD 20/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Marti
bryan61 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with bogden
RKirke 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ryu
dobby 200 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
Chloe 31/Aug/14 TR dog
La Mont 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Luke Owens 24/Aug/14 Lead RP

2nd go, got wrong handed on the onsight. Quality crimping!

Shane Willis 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead dog
nacnud 27/Jul/14 -
with Richard Price, Laura Grifith, Ewan Panter
jonleighton 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
3 Names 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jon Leighton
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Douglas ?/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Martin Smith
samparsons 03/Jun/14 Lead RP

First tried 3rd May 2014

Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
Henry.Todman 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Coops_13 08/Apr/14 Lead dog

Fell right at the top on first RP attempt. Sun beat down and sweated up the crucial crimps. Nice moves

BenL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
sarpedon 01/Mar/14 Lead dog

Missed the onsight with one sloppy fall then did worse trying to redpoint.

Justin T 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Nancy
L.miura 01/Sep/13 Lead
with Julie Carroll
Hidden 30/Aug/13 Lead
goddamm7 30/Aug/13 TR β
lewiz 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 TR dog
Rokmunky 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Trannum
trannumrahim 03/Aug/13 Lead dnf
with Rich
RFWilkie 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
phardy 30/Jun/13 Lead dog

Slipped off the crimp of the last crimp! ARRGGHHH! found new beta for the top

Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead β
Hidden 29/Jun/13 TR dog
Aaron.Clifford 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
phardy ?/Jun/13 Lead dog

Amazing climbing, must go back and try to get it clean

quiffhanger 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Sharp but worthwhile.

with Kate
LucasHarazin 25/May/13 Lead O/S
DJ Nelson 25/May/13 Lead RP

2nd go

Jonathan Emett 16/May/13 Lead rpt


with paulj
Hidden 16/May/13 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 25/Apr/13 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Shamina
bouldermonkey ?/Apr/13 TR
trev_f 29/Mar/13 Lead RP
with Si, Alex M
Alex More 29/Mar/13 Lead RP
with trev
DorsetGareth 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
mikewiggs ??/2013 Lead β
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Jobbo 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
john rensten 27/Oct/12 Lead RP
ASchwirtz 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
mlg678 16/Sep/12 Lead rpt

i've barely climbed this year and still manage to retro flash this. Not a 7a, 6c+ max!

skhill 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
andrew hammond 26/Aug/12 Lead RP
Brian H 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Andrew Hammond
robajob 12/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead RP
Ian Bell 15/Jul/12 Lead RP

2nd go RP. Tried it once 2 years ago and felt hard. Felt easy this time.

with Leah
rustaldo 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

hard to read, long move off the underclings and a crappy crimp. need a steady head.

with Mo, John Salmon
climbergg 01/Jul/12 2nd
Tim M 01/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Emma
Qisheng Xie 30/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Gary Duke
Ben Wolstenholme 17/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
EllaRus ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with john
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
patrickc 15/Apr/12 TR dog
metal arms 08/Apr/12 Lead dog

1 rest

efrance24234 07/Apr/12 Lead RP

quick look then first rp

Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead RP
yarrow 31/Mar/12 TR O/S
philhaigh 28/Mar/12 Lead RP

Just as the sun set :-)

philhaigh 27/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Murray Freestone
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead β
Linc 10/Mar/12 Lead RP
Ducks Rock 10/Mar/12 TR dog
with Si
thetradlad 03/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Mar/12 Lead dog
Dandan82 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 15/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
Toby Dunn 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
Jonathan Emett 23/Nov/11 Lead dnf

crimps hurting.

with toby
philhaigh 05/Nov/11 Lead dog
nataliehaigh 05/Nov/11 TR dnf
j miller 22/Oct/11 -
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead dog
allydonald ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Aug/11 TR RP
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead β
Jonathan Emett 28/Jun/11 Lead RP

clean 2nd go. On the first attempt I reached too high for the top break, even though I knew this was a mistake as I was doing it. move your feet up. do'h.

Hidden 28/May/11 Lead RP
Pippa 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
Daniel Wicks 12/May/11 Lead
loz901 06/May/11 Lead O/S
tom106 06/May/11 Lead O/S
with laura
Bonkers Dog 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 10/Apr/11 2nd RP
wi11 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Nat
tobydunford 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Charlie
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead dog
Tomar 19/Mar/11 Lead β

Flash. Clips in. Nice rock!

wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Nat
Hidden 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Harry Massey
Hidden 23/Jan/11 Lead RP
james.pilbeam ??/2011 Lead RP
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Dec/10 Lead β
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 10/Oct/10 Lead dog

fingertips on the top on my 2nd attempt - but then gravity looked up sharply, and demanded to know exactly what the hell I thought I was doing up there with no visible means of support.

with Lyndsay
dan gibson 09/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with anna barnes
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead dog
mlg678 09/Oct/10 Lead RP
La benya 25/Sep/10 Lead β

i think too easy for 7a, 6c+ probably fairer. really tiny holds at the top, basically just wish yourself up

Hidden 28/Aug/10 TR
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dog
Vince 08/Aug/10 Lead dog
with John Percy
Vince 08/Aug/10 Lead RP
with John Percy
riddle 17/Jul/10 Lead dog

Ran out of steam and courage at the last move... big girls blouse.

with Yasmina
brices 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
sam_cox 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
eddieclimb 09/May/10 Lead RP

1ST RP, fingery little number!!!

with Rebecca Edwards
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead RP
natalietanzer 17/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Duncan
nacnud 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Gingerdarren 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with kate Boys
Billg 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
katiep 21/Mar/10 TR dog
jacobjlloyd 21/Mar/10 Lead RP

Second go. Onsight attempt was a protracted affair. I was silly enough to finish up the 6b, then had to downclimb it, unclipping as I went, to get back on the line, only to follow chalk off to the right of the undercling and run out of holds. Muppet. If I had any route finding skills (see bolts, follow bolts..) it would probably have gone onsight. Felt pretty soft for the grade.

with Katie Preston
Luke d 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

realy cool and slightly to easy for the grade i think but good climbing on it just walked up to it with no beta at all and sent it but needs another bolt at the top

Peterjuliandawson 07/Mar/10 Lead RP

My hardest route yet really cool did it when I was eleven

will9911 ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
JonBrown 17/Jan/10 Lead dnf

Frustratingly good, last minute feet faff denied me

Ceridwen 17/Jan/10 TR dog

For the first time 7a feels possible! A bit more training and I'll have it.....

with Jon Brown
willbatho 10/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S

only one bolt at the lower off

with Mike Hawkins
MarkRyder 18/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Lee
Ben Harper 14/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Andy Webster
dannyboy83 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
dmoir 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Seb1uk 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Scott Soithongsuk
BenNorman ?/Mar/09 Lead RP


with kev norman
tobydunford 14/Feb/09 Lead dog
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
w.pettet-smith 30/Dec/08 Lead RP

grabbed the quick draw on the undercuts like a big pussy, then got through the thin, delicate crux without too much grief on first attempt. then took some falls, then sent it.

with josh
feilx 06/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Rich Dagner
vertigo 18/Oct/08 Lead RP

Cracking moves from the undercut upwards. 1st RP.

rhino_bill 18/Oct/08 TR dog
ThomasB ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S

1st 7a on sight!

DrGav 20/Sep/08 Lead rpt


with Wendy
Andrew Barker 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Great climbing, really had to look around for the holds but they appear just when you need them.

with Chunk
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead β
Matt Bennett 10/Jul/08 Lead RP

1st rp

Martin Krasnansky 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
schof 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
Macca_7 28/Jun/08 Lead RP

Good thin moves after the tricky undercut. Done after 1 quick top rope.

goi.ashmore 25/Apr/08 Lead RP


with John Marsland
Morgan Woods 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Excellent route....slightly more fingery than the 7a to the right.

with Wilbur
Wilbur 23/Mar/08 Lead RP

2nd go - chuffed with the quick redpoint

with Iain
catt 23/Mar/08 Lead dog

Bolt to bolt. Should go next time on it.

with George
marky ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Hidden ??/2008 TR RP
Hidden ??/2008 -
Graham Westbrook ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/07 TR
DrGav 15/Sep/07 Lead RP

Hard to spot the crimp on the crux, then more hunting around. Lovely once i spotted the holds.

with Chris
andy jennings ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
chris sm 05/May/07 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
chris sm 15/Apr/07 TR β
with Pippa Froggatt
JPGR 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Steve
Matt Shepherd 20/Mar/07 Lead RP
feeko ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
dan gibson 15/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Rin
givemetea ?/Oct/06 Lead RP
with Tony Yates
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
bigie bob 30/Jan/06 Lead RP
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ?/Aug/05 Lead RP
bobboulderer ?/Jul/05 TR dog
with Rob Shoosmith
Hidden 29/Jan/05 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 22/Mar/03 2nd dog
with Geraldine Taylor
John Southworth 01/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/1997 -
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1996 Lead
Nigel Coe 15/Apr/89 2nd dog


with Harry Venables, Tim Dunsby
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High 7a+
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High 7a
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Votes cast 80
Votes cast 71
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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