UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

15m.

Rockfax Description
An eye-catching frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct. © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy 08/Aug/1987.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Cool Names , Portland Olympian , UK Flowstone , Portland Projects 6c-7a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
J1_TOV 7 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Gipping
Show beta
βeta: Gipping
gemmapig 30 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Slippy feet if you go direct.
Show beta
βeta: Slippy feet if you go direct.
Monk 29 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think this is over-rated at all! This follows a clear line on weird and wonderful rock. The first bolt is high and was scary to onsight as I muffed the sequence but there is an easier way. I loved this route.
βeta?
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βeta: I don't think this is over-rated at all! This follows a clear line on weird and wonderful rock. The first bolt is high and was scary to onsight as I muffed the sequence but there is an easier way. I loved this route.
Jus 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Do most people start right of the first bolt and don't engage with the tufa proper until after clipping the second bolt?
Show beta
βeta: Do most people start right of the first bolt and don't engage with the tufa proper until after clipping the second bolt?
Adam Lincoln 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Over-rated. Inbalanced difficulty. Bad placing of first bolt. Nastily polished at start.
Show beta
βeta: Over-rated. Inbalanced difficulty. Bad placing of first bolt. Nastily polished at start.
Alun 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt is high but easy moves to reach it. Crux is reaching (and clipping) the second bolt, I found it ridiculously slippy but then this was my first route on flowstone. The rest of the route is much easier if you're not too pumped from the crux!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bolt is high but easy moves to reach it. Crux is reaching (and clipping) the second bolt, I found it ridiculously slippy but then this was my first route on flowstone. The rest of the route is much easier if you're not too pumped from the crux!
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A fine route, but not as good as To Wish the Impossible
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fine route, but not as good as To Wish the Impossible

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 162
Votes cast 145
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Walking on Sunshine

Grade: 7a ***
(Wallsend South)

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