Rockfax Description
The crack and wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The righthand of two new routes to the right of Factor 15 at Godnor Far North. May be F5 for the short.

Andy Dunford 20/Aug/2009

Ticklists: 4 - 5 Grade Climbs at Cheyne Wears Area, Portland.

Shaky Dog 09/Dec/17 Lead β
with Mike
mikemc 09/Dec/17 Lead O/S
with Kelwyn
Andre Clarke 26/Nov/17 Lead dog

Tricky little number for grade 4

Dan_F 26/Nov/17 Lead rpt
Tommy Harris 26/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Andre Clarke, Dan fletcher
marclloyd77 07/Sep/17 Lead O/S

In approach shoes.

with Stu Bridger
thelightside 07/Sep/17 Lead dog
shell145 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Andy B, Helen
Linc 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Kay
Kayface42 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Si
Paul Hicks 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Mick Ward, Andy Schofield
Hidden 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
dave470003 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
martin one 05/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Ruth, ssutton
vix 04/Aug/17 Lead
with Lorna
mattx1123 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Stiff warm up.

with Sara LRC, Jamie S, Georgina bough
Robbie-Fleming 12/Jul/17 Lead O/S
mytornado84 02/Jul/17 TR β
Dan_F 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
kieranbowen 14/May/17 Lead O/S
with drummond, jake, Alice, Giles, Sam, Ruth
Hidden 07/May/17 Lead
dereke12000 07/May/17 Lead O/S

The first 5 metres of rock are unspoilt by the sight of any bolts.

with Rob
Hidden 02/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead β
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead dog
Trevor Allison 18/Apr/17 Lead dog
HarryCopperthwaite 18/Apr/17 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/17 2nd
nvalentine760 17/Apr/17 Lead
Jay-Ast 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Rosyk 16/Apr/17 2nd O/S
gsavell 15/Apr/17 Lead
with Robert Savell, Sarah Knight
Bones [:B 07/Apr/17 Lead O/S
guy127917 07/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Jen
Hidden 27/Dec/16 Lead rpt
Katie Welch 17/Sep/16 TR
robertmills4 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Daveyc86 17/Sep/16 Lead
dohart 12/Sep/16 TR O/S

warm up. Would agree with comments that no way this is 4+ and bolts don't inspire confidence either. but it is actually a good route.

with herve
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
chancer 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ed Wigmore
hotfeet 14/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/16 Lead
derekwwl 08/Aug/16 Lead rpt
tim.rose2 07/Aug/16 Lead
Olly-tech 07/Aug/16 2nd dnf
cem 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt
bobstones 31/Jul/16 Lead β
s1362083 30/Jul/16 Lead dog
Matt Smith 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Emily Brice , Ed Tillard
Hidden 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/16 Lead
Philoosh 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S

No way is this only a 4+ climb. The first bolt is very high and quite a reachy clip for an easy route. Would grade this higher also based on the excessive wear on the holds.

ssutton 05/Jun/16 Lead
with Ruth
Wallman 05/Jun/16 Lead dog
with Luke
derekwwl 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 2nd
Steve954 15/May/16 Lead dog

This was hard work especially as the warm up but happy to complete it.

with Andy, Richard
Hidden 01/May/16 Lead
daviesp2 24/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Very poor climb by me. Quite steep for 4 and pumped out as I was so weak after 6 month off

fharnish13 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Zoe!
Ewa Koc 17/Apr/16 TR
with Dario
Bob M 14/Apr/16 Lead

A long way to the first bolt, but there is a thread for protection lower down.

with Harry Cripps
Hidden 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
deano 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S
with Kai Thomas
Roland stopps ??/2016 Lead
Mattholland96 ??/2016 Lead
with Dad
samparsons ??/2016 Lead O/S
col3 31/Oct/15 TR

Not a great climb, first bolt was really high. Enjoyable enough but not a 4+, more like 5+! With Erin, Sam, Victoria, Ollie, Alice and Jasmine.

with Erin, Victoria and Alice
cem 27/Sep/15 Lead β

Not onsight as Freddie led it first.

with Frederik Seelig
danusiatycia 27/Sep/15 Lead
Peter Ballantine 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
betathief 06/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Jessicacrump 06/Sep/15 2nd
hlburns ?/Sep/15 -
with Maike
sajrf123 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Alex N-R 03/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden 29/Jul/15 Lead
BarrySW19 25/Jul/15 Lead dog

Couldn't commit to the crimpy move in the middle. Next year.

Bob M 17/Jul/15 -
gotthebug 11/Jul/15 TR
with Andrew Eveling
Gemma_Penny 11/Jul/15 TR

i found this quite hard for the grade

andrewere 11/Jul/15 Lead
with Shelley
ThomasB ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
HumphreyJ20 30/Jun/15 2nd
Valentino 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Jay
dansimkin 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
runwildjohn 13/Jun/15 TR

Just managed to clip the first bolt using a long clipstick and standing on tiptoes!

Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead
andyclimber 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Maccaku 07/Jun/15 TR
sbattams 25/May/15 Lead
Emily 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Completely absurd place for the first bolt. Up to the first ledge was a fairly easy scramble, but I definitely did not fancy the move onto the second ledge without the bolt clipped; very high and way too far into droppable territory. (Remedied this with a borrowed clipstick.) The climbing was fairly nice all the way up, though. Managed to mangle my pinky and bled copiously onto all the holds on the upper half.

with Claire
andrewmc 09/May/15 Lead O/S

High first bolt.

with Lilo Henke
babymoac 06/Apr/15 2nd
with Dan Sanderson, adam, Rachel
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead
mattjson ?/Apr/15 Lead G/U
with DomCR
HaleAlex ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Great name!

mattjson ?/Apr/15 Lead G/U
with DomCR
alexcollins123 31/Mar/15 2nd
tomaca12 31/Mar/15 Lead dnf

Very puppy, sandy, hard for the grade

DanWeiss 07/Mar/15 Lead β
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
EleanorWOY 26/Oct/14 2nd O/S


Hidden 23/Sep/14 2nd dog
guy127917 22/Sep/14 Lead dog
vertigo 30/Aug/14 Lead β

To hard for 4+.

with Dash
will_lake 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Richardlake 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Trace 09/Aug/14 2nd
bryan61 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Chunk 04/Jul/14 -
beckybutcher91 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Emily Butcher
AlexD 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Shamina
Wildstyle 25/May/14 2nd
Dawlish 25/May/14 2nd

high first bolt lose rock lot harder than the guide book

with neil
martin one 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Lucy
Hidden 22/May/14 Lead dog
Tom Penrose 09/May/14 Lead O/S

Quite a high first bolt I thought. Some fun climbing on good holds after the first clip.

Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
londonoring 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/14 Lead
steveprice.exmouth 22/Apr/14 2nd
Skullfire 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
betathief 23/Mar/14 TR O/S
cpoad 15/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Pete M (CC)
brian watson 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Pilar Martinez
Hidden 02/Feb/14 Lead O/S
jopayne1988 ??/2014 Lead dog

First bolt seems very high

magsb 01/Oct/13 -
KatDay 14/Sep/13 2nd
with James
James_L88 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

No loose rock near death experiences for Kat this time!

with Kat Day
onlyfoddington 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
bobstones 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead β
Paul Hy 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Amy C
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead
joshchalke 04/Aug/13 Lead
ewanjp 28/Jul/13 Lead G/U
trannumrahim 28/Jul/13 Lead
with Ewan Panter
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
farley-hulse89 21/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Rooney90 20/Jul/13 AltLd
jtree03 19/Jul/13 Lead
with Paul C
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead
meltdown34 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Chris
Quarryboy 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

A definite crux in the middle.

with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Rob Stanfield
Bristol_Quornstar 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JamesRich 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Hard for the grade

with Alex Rhodes, Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Hidden 23/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Stanners 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
annak 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jonnyblindsign 25/May/13 Lead O/S
AlexHerbert79 25/May/13 Lead dnf

End of a long day. Should have finshed this but got pumped and gave up on the penultimate bolt. Next time...

Rupey 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with alan
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
shim ?/May/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd
will_benfold 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jameslam 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Matt Martin
Steph Roberts 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Steph, Sam Ferguson, el_monty
el_monty 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Steph, Sami, sam ferguson
Hidden 21/Apr/13 -
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 09/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Martin
AndySL 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Deano
Dave138 ??/2013 -
Dave138 ??/2013 -
Dave138 ??/2013 -
Hidden 28/Oct/12 Lead O/S
rachelvlc 28/Oct/12 Lead
poeter210 20/Oct/12 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Oct/12 TR dog
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Oct/12 TR β
iClimber 07/Oct/12 Lead β
Hidden 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
robajob 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Peter Lovell 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
angie 29/Sep/12 Lead
cfisher4 27/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/12 -
jon_gill1 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/12 Lead
sammycolon 15/Sep/12 -
Twisty 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Greg Slee
Dave Page 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Lenaya Page
minimark001 ?/Sep/12 -
Matt250 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
dh7892 26/Aug/12 TR O/S

Not bad but a bit fiddly for the grade and time might be better spent on the routes further left.

cpoad 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kerry W
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead
buzzball101 ?/Aug/12 Lead
homing-penguin 22/Jul/12 2nd dog
tom_greenwich 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S

when one of our group climbed this route on 08/07/12 a large (2ftx1ft) section of rock by the 3rd bolt came loose and narrowly missed the belayer. Due to the heavy rain this section seems a bit loose at the moment so please climb with caution

tom_greenwich 08/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
jennifers87 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Enjoyable climb, not easy to clip of the top, very sandy and wet

leeds_belle 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route but requires a very long cows tail to clip into lower off. Awkward to get feet higher on the last move & hand holds a bit dirty.

diamond rib 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Adam Wheeler
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
Nexonen 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Jake
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
LilPhant25 03/Jun/12 TR dog
with Dave Cummings
davemcummings 03/Jun/12 Lead RP


Fatclimber 03/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dean Chapman
Hidden 28/Apr/12 Lead dog
climbhannahclimb 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Lee Renshaw
Hinchrn 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
kcollender 29/Jan/12 Lead
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
David Staples ??/2012 AltLd β
clukins 22/Oct/11 Lead β
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
montymoo 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Gareth
Gareth 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 03/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with lee91
PilarMartinez 17/Oct/10 2nd
with gibsond
gibsond 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead β
Hidden 01/Sep/10 TR O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Marti999 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jonny Murrey
Jonathan Emett 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with crispin
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead
Bob M 25/Jun/10 Lead
Alex More 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with keiha
Adam Perrett 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
johnl 20/Aug/09 Lead β
with Andy Dunford
KDhruev ?/Aug/09 Lead
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set