UKC

400m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
300m. A fantastic hard route featuring some brilliant crack climbing that isn't common in the Aiguilles Rouges. The climbing is pretty sustained providing a great challenge. Start as for Grevolle Direct. The junction is marked with a metal plaque on the bolt.
1) 5b, 2) 3c, 3) 5a, 4) 6c, 5) 3c, 6) 7a+, 7) 6c+, 8) 7b, 9) 6b+, 10) 6b+, 11) 6b+. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The hardest and at nearly 400m, the longest route on the Perrons. It starts easily enough up the first 2 pitches of Grevôle, then heads right a bit to climb the nice wall right of the corner of Grevôle. Once on the middle terraces it goes right and takes the striking thin crack in the grey wall - its raison d'être - and definitely the best pitch on the Perrons. Harder climbing follows to a superb, if easier finale up the ramp that splits the overhanging headwall. 11 pitches. Take 15 quickdraws and 2x50m.

J de Montjoye / H Sharp 03/Oct/2010.

Feedback

User Date Notes
JTM 19 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent. Bolted partly ground up. The long crack was first done on nuts/friends. The crux pitch and parts of others were equipped from above. I wondered for a long time if our luck would hold, and there'd be a way through the overhanging upper head wall. A telephoto pic taken from the end of the ridge that separates the two cwms under the crags revealed a hint of a weakness..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent. Bolted partly ground up. The long crack was first done on nuts/friends. The crux pitch and parts of others were equipped from above. I wondered for a long time if our luck would hold, and there'd be a way through the overhanging upper head wall. A telephoto pic taken from the end of the ridge that separates the two cwms under the crags revealed a hint of a weakness..

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Voting
High ED3
Mid ED3
Low ED3
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ma Dalton

Grade: ED2 7b+ ***
(Aiguille du Midi)

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