Climbing banned in France

Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, France has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.

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Climbs 30
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 2673m a.s.l
Faces all

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A Bigger Bang, Les Perrons. 5th pitch. First Ascent. © jon

Crag features

Steep multi-pitch routes on magnificent mountain crags up to 370m high, situated on the Franco Swiss border above the valley of Vallorcine, the highest point being the Grand Perron at 2674m. Referred to collectively as Les Perrons, they comprise five main faces - Le Pain de Sucre, La Pointe Vouilloz, Le Grand Perron, La Tour Grise and further round, overlooking the lake, the Aiguille du Van. They offer superb steep technical climbs on good gneiss and also a really nice ridge traverse.

Descent is normally by abseil or you can finish off by doing the traverse - in either direction.

Approach notes

The easiest and normal approach is from the Emosson dam, which is accessed by road from the border village of Chatelard, via Finhaut. The road closes after the first sizeable fall of snow in autumn/winter and opens again when it is feasible, normally around April/May depending on the winter.

From the carpark, cross the dam and take the Loriaz path which leads off leftwards. 

Tour Grise - follow the path until below the crag, then ascend the grassy slopes directly to the base - 1 hour.

Grand Perron - continue along the path to a cairn at the entrance to a large cwm. Here a smaller path strikes off rightwards into the cwm. Follow this path, which has a tendance to lose itself in a boulder field, aiming for the defining ridge of the Chardonnet on the left. Follow the crest of this to where it meets the crag, then walk up rightwards to the climbs.

Pointe Vouilloz and the Pain de Sucre - descend the far side of the Chardonnet ridge (cairn marking the start of the descent) into the next cwm and follow a traversing path to the start of the routes. About 1 hour 45 mins.
Alternatively approach from the Refuge de Loriaz in about 1 hour. The refuge is reached from Vallorcine in 1 1/2 - 2 hours.

Finally made it up to the G perron, well worth the walk, definetly on the cards to return.
walts4 - 25/Oct/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dalles de la Breche des Perrons/Aiguille de Charmo Buttresses
2 This Little Piggy... 6a ** 2
3 Or noir 6b ** 2
  Le Pain de Sucre
5 Monaci / Thivierge ED1  
6 Voie Fournier TD+ **  
7 A Bigger Bang 7a *** 3
8 Brown Sugar 7a *** 3
9 Charlet / Rieffel TD+ ** 1
  La Pointe Vouilloz
11 Le premier matin du monde 7a+ 2
12 Squatteurs de Lune 6b ** 18
13 Jean-Sé's (abandoned) project 6b 1
Climb name Grade
14 Alea jacta est 7a+ *** 2
15 Grevôle/Alea jacta est 6c+ ** 1
16 La Grevôle Directe 6b ** 15
17 Grande Réserve 6b 1
18 Bada Boom 7b *** 1
19 Le dièdre rouge TD+  
20 Bada Bing 6c+ *** 18
21 Au coeur de l'anticyclone 6a+ * 8
22 Justine p'tite goutte 6a+ 1
  Le Grand Perron
24 Le Grand Perron summit summit 3
25 La Balade des Gens Heureux 6a+ *** 14
26 Voie des Dalles TD *  
Climb name Grade
27 La Fleur de Lotus 6b+ * 2
28 Don't cry for me Argentina 6b 1
29 La Leyenda del Dorando/El Nino 7b+ *** 1
  La Tour Grise
31 Soleil gris 7a *  
32 Le Goujon Manquant 6b * 2
  Aiguille du Van
34 SE arête of the Aiguille du van S
PD 2
35 Acqua concert 6a * 33
  The Perrons Ridge
37 La Traversée des Perrons AD *** 81
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jon