Rockfax Description
Another route that has been free climbed to give a tough challenge up a magnificent and intimidating line. Pitch 3 is probably the hardest pitch in the whole area. Bring plenty of gear, from micro wires to big cams. Originally there was a convoluted approach via Storpillaren, but a more direct version has been found. From the ledges below Storpillaren descend leftwards to belay down and right of a black cave.
1) N6-, 45m. Traverse left then climb the slabby wall to a stance on the ramp that runs right up towards Storpillaren.
2) N6+, 70m. Climb the crack and head into the huge groove. This pitch requires plenty of cams including some big ones. Continue up the chimney to a big ledge.
3) N9, 30m. The 'Changing Corners' pitch into 'The Book of Hate'. Climb the main corner (Storpillaren's original line) but transfer into the long groove on the left. Climb this - thin at mid-height where a double set number of micro wires will be needed - to a poor stance.
4) N7+, 30m. Continue up the groove (nowhere else to go!) past a hollow block to reach a stance - lots of wires, all sizes.
5) N8+, 50m. 'The Enduro Corner'. Climb the groove to the roofs, pass these left then right to reach the break and a belay.
6) to 12) N6-, 350m. Move right to finish up Storpillaren. © Rockfax
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