(The Great Pillar) A Lofoten classic - long and serious, though increasingly overshadowed by its neighbours. The route received its long overdue first free ascent in 2001, though it is still normally done with some aid (N6- A1) where needed. Start on the grassy shoulder under the right-hand side of the pillar at a conspicuous groove. The route is best done when completely dry, as the normal top section involves an unprotected slab which is near impossible when wet, though this can be avoided by some grunge climbing. Carry two sets of cams and a full set of wires including micro wires.
1) N5, 45m. Climb up the corner/groove, then up a slab to a belay on the right side of a huge block.
2) N6-, 30m. Move left and down, traversing back up until you reach a stance at the right-hand edge of a ledge at the base of a left-facing groove.
3) N7-, 40m. Move left into the base of the groove (this is hard to start) then good climbing leads to the top of the corner. Climb the left-hand of two cracks to a narrow ledge (possible stance). Continue up a short hard groove and the continuation crack system (some loose rock) to the ledge.
4) N7, 40m. Climb the tough diagonal jamming crack into the big groove and continue up a chimney to a tiny ledge. The main corner - the original line - can be climbed at N6- A1 or N8- free.
5) N6, 20m. Start up a wide crack to a ledge, then climb the prominent left-facing corner to a sloping ledge.
6) N7-, 35m. Climb the big chimney, then move up a narrow right-trending ramp to a good belay ledge.
7) N6+, 20m. The sustained left-facing corner leads out under a roof, then up to a stance in a niche.
8) N6-, 40m. Continue up the steep face left of the stance - tricky to protect and to find the easiest line.
9) N5, 55m. Head straight up the face, following the easiest line, then follow an easier groove back to the right to a stance.
10) N5, 50m. Move right into a crack which is just to the left of the a large groove. Continue up broken ground (poor protection) then traverse right for 30m to a stance.
11) N4, 45m. Climb up and right to the groove/gully. At its top, move left around an arete onto the left side of the ridge. Climb the face up and to the right to a huge flat ledge.
12) N4, 50m. An easy pitch (BIG loose blocks) up the right side of the ridge leads to a ledge 15m below the top of the ridge. Climb up and left to gain the ridge crest.
13) N3, 40m. Follow the ridge up then down, to a fixed belay.
14) 30m. Abseil then down-climb 20m to a gap - bolt belay.
15) N6-, 35m. Climb cracks to a tiny ledge (old peg) then move left onto a blank slab (poor nuts). Now move right and layback an arete (bold) to a ledge with many loose blocks.
16) N5, 45m. Climb around the left side of a pinnacle onto steep grass with loose blocks - from here the only way is up. Make a hard move at the end onto the flat ridge above, and relief!
15a) and 16a) N5. The final two pitches can be avoided by abseiling 20m down to the right and doing two pitches of 'mungy' grade N5 to reach the crest. This is less good than the normal route, but at least it is a fair bit easier. © Rockfax
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