UKC

Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

Rockfax Description
A trad climb up the corner to the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
old route which was re-cleaned and had a double lower off fitted courtesy of Mr Goodey, in Aug/09.
Excellent gear but not in the first 15ft. Double bolt lower off.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Nick osborn 29 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like there’s been another significant rock fall
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like there’s been another significant rock fall
Vertical Gardener 16 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: (most of) the climb appears to still exist. The handholds I removed can be found at the base of the crag, they weren't that useful anyway!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: (most of) the climb appears to still exist. The handholds I removed can be found at the base of the crag, they weren't that useful anyway!!
j616s 29 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This climb may no longer exist. Large amount of recent looking rockfall between this an Wizz Bang. The chains are still there. My first time in Bus Stop, though. So not 100% sure how many of the holds on the floor were needed on the wall...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This climb may no longer exist. Large amount of recent looking rockfall between this an Wizz Bang. The chains are still there. My first time in Bus Stop, though. So not 100% sure how many of the holds on the floor were needed on the wall...
liamhughes1981 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Massive loose block at half height
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Massive loose block at half height
Joel The Climber Guy 1 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very easy fun climbing that feels in no way exposed with the faces on eitherside of you! (Might make a good first HS for someone new to leading!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very easy fun climbing that feels in no way exposed with the faces on eitherside of you! (Might make a good first HS for someone new to leading!)

Logged Ascents

434 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 35
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flake Crack Into Inspiration

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Carreg y Foel Gron)

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