Rockfax Description
Excellent and varied groove climbing with an almost gritstone-like mid-section. Climb poor rock until above the wide chert band. Move up and then left into a corner/groove and follow it to a steep finish that is overcome by a big reach. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Jun/1997

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

Linc 08/Oct/17 Lead dnf

First crux at obviously blank wall, high feet RH gaston on thun crack, LH mono, edge feet to the left, pop for better left hand. After clip RH to side pull pocket. LH slightly beetle to the right of hold. Big reach LH to arete (falling catch) step through. Match with RH. delicate bridging. At top high foot to obvious foot with Pocket. LH into higher pocket, bad cross to jug under clip. Top crux

with Kay
Hidden 17/Jun/17 Lead RP
samparsons 16/Jun/17 Lead RP

2nd try today. Brilliant climb with a heart in your mouth last move. Personal it should be a 3 star route. First tried 11 Oct 2016

afrosam 17/Sep/16 Lead dog
with Ash
chris_woodsy 07/Aug/16 Lead dog

Got to the top move once I had the sequence sussed. That top move... did it once (after a lot of tries) going up with the left... very powerful... maybe if i was taller... maybe. Looking at the comments I probably should have invested more time trying it with the right. One for next time.

with Widdaz
ThomasB 30/Jul/16 Lead RP
pezzerrr 01/Aug/15 Lead RP
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
lewiz 01/Jun/14 Lead RP

Top move was just in my head. Did it with the left sidepull. Hard 7b.

lewiz 31/May/14 Lead dog

Not got the beta and/or power for the final move. Not using sidepull out to the left. Rest is very straightforward.

Hidden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 27/Apr/13 Lead RP

The final moves to the lower off took some working out. Went through 4 different methods. Eventually found a (fairly) static way. Third try on the third day lucky. Phew.

Brian H 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Dogged but did all the moves apart from the last long reach.

with Martin Slater
dan gibson 28/Jun/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead RP
Marti999 08/May/12 Lead RP
Marti999 06/Apr/12 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2012 Lead dog
Mike_Hayes 21/May/11 Lead dnf

Apparently you're su[pposed to undercut LET hand at the top... Hard IMO and uncharachteristic last move in terms of the rest of the route.

with Sarah Marks, Matt Sparkes
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead dog
schof 13/Apr/10 Lead RP


with rob kennard
dannyboy83 12/Jul/09 Lead RP
feilx 12/Jul/09 Lead RP
nealh ??/2009 Lead
trev_f 21/Jul/08 TR dnf
with Andy
Richard Horn 15/Jun/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 15/Jun/08 Lead RP


La Mont ??/2008 -
bigie bob 15/Apr/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
2 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set