130m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This quirky climb is a must for anyone with a taste for the unusual, or for those that just want to scare themselves silly.
It is now considered a classic climb but is actually a combination of three separate routes. It begins following the Dibona Chimney before branching left onto the Stösser/Schütt to gain the summit of Torre Leo. Finally its follows the master that was Hans Dülfer in his 'step' across to Torre del Diavolo.
The grade of the route is somewhat arbitrary, as it all depends on the all-important step; those with short legs beware, the bridging move between Torre Leo and Diavolo is 1.5m wide - a good test of flexibility.
Start below a yellow niche, right of the chimney between the towers.
1) V, 30m. Follow a ramp easily left to the base of the chimney between the towers. Climb this and pull past a chockstone to a stance above.
2) IV+, 35m. Continue up the chimney, passing two chockstones, then move right around a third to belay on top.
3) V, 30m. Move up and left then traverse a slab towards the arete then, just before this, climb a crack direct to reach the arete itself. Move around to the left of this and climb direct to belay below a crack.
4) III, 10m. Follow the crack, trending slightly left, to reach a stance just below the summit of Torre Leo.
5) VI-, 20m. Either abseil or down climb for 15m to reach the narrowest point between the towers. Make the step as gracefully as you can then climb the opposite wall for 5m to a stance.
6) V, 20m. Follow a flake left of the belay then climb the crack above direct to the base of a chimney.
7) IV+, 30m. Follow the chimney in its entirety to reach the summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

Oliver Smaje ?/Sep/16 AltLd
with Peter Carragher
Roberttaylor ?/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Careful, there's a large block held up by some dust on the final pitch that could go at any moment. Local guides informed.

thetradlad 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Great fun. Approach in under 1.5 hrs from Ristorante Alla Baita

with Ollie Willmot
Sam Husband 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Outstanding (profile picture acquired thanks to Tom bailing on Il Gobbo in time for a photo!)

with Ed
Stroppy 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Great fun

Mike Hood 09/Oct/14 AltLd
with Alex
Alex Munnery ?/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
p.j.deacon 19/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Had to abb off due to partner feeling faint, was looking forward to the epic step over. A long walk in 2-3hrs......take food and water!

tcn_2002 11/Jul/14 AltLd
jameslam ?/Jul/14 -
rlade ?/Aug/13 -
Chris Sansum 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Richard Lade
Hidden 01/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
paul79 14/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
givemetea 25/Aug/09 AltLd dog

fell across the gap between the two towers ... hmmm ... definitely not my thing!

with Craig Jenkins
Kopo ?/Aug/09 -
with Emmi
Hidden 11/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
simon kimber ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Paul Burren
EllieWoods ?/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with Si
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High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set