250m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Dynamic and varied climbing make this another popular route on the face. The route is sometimes called the 'Route of Friendship, Schubert and Matthies' in memory of their friend Harald Siebold who died in a climbing accident. Equipped stances and some fixed gear.
Start 20m left of the huge rift in the rock, at the base of the rightwards-trending overhanging corner-crack below a series of roofs.
1) V+, 30m. Climb the steep corner then exit left at a peg. Climb cracks direct towards the roof then traverse right below it and move up to a stance on its right edge.
2) V, 40m. Follow a long crack, moving right into a short corner then back left into the crack and pull through a niche to reach a ledge.
3) VI-, 40m. Climb a corner-crack left of the ledge to a small pulpit. Follow a crack direct then left again to a stance in the yellow crack.
4) V-, 40m. Follow the yellow crack right to a pulpit, then move back left. Climb direct up the well-pegged wall above to a bolted stance.
5) V, 25m. Traverse left around the arete then climb direct to a ledge.
6) V, 45m. Move diagonally right from the ledge then climb a crack to another terrace on the right. Step right and climb direct, keeping left of a bulge until reaching three pegs on top of a pillar below an overhang.
7) IV, 45m. Traverse right below the overhang then move up and back left to a ledge. Climb direct to a niche (possible belay) then exit this left and continue direct to the ledge.
FA. Schubert, Matthies 1967 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Right hand side of lower tier . Piz Ciavazes

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

Felicity Eperon 04/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Alex Law
Abi Chard 30/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Ian
James Rigby 29/Aug/17 2nd

Massive, not used to dolerite but loved exposure and the massive ab descent. Good taster of the dolomites will be back soon.... my right shoe is way to tight for massive multipitch climbs

with Manuel
malone 05/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/17 AltLd
Julesthe1st 13/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Outstanding route. The first pitch gets Vl in some guidebooks. Some of the run-outs are huge but the rock quality is superb so with a considered steady lead it's not an issue. Lead all pitches. Enjoyed all of them!

PilarMartinez 13/Jul/17 2nd
with juliano
Hidden ?/Jul/17 Lead
Bernie L 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches in just over 3.5hrs. Accidentally did an alternative P6 which felt like VI+, directly up from the belay into the corner/crack and then left to the same stance as the pitch in the topo.

with Simon Do
beardy mike ??/2017 -
Stoney Boy 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

First 4 pitches before the sun came round.

with Uli
Dizz 15/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led the odd pitches - crux excellent ... felt e2 5c but maybe I'm just soft! :)

with Martina
JonnoP 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with RikH
Kris 20/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Stickle Tarn 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Well equipped stances, many pegs in the harder areas. Tip, take 4-6 extendable runners; also good for threading the pegs rather than using a snap gate.

Hidden ?/Jul/16 Lead
dodfoster 24/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
tatz45 09/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
cayteye 20/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with mike stober
islandlynx 27/May/15 AltLd

Led p1 3 5 7, we split pitch 3 in two. 6 hours, 1.5 for casual descent to car park. Great route.

Matt77 27/May/15 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. I did pitches 2.0 (we split it in to 2 pitches), 3, 5 and 7.

with Shane
Flavio 09/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
james1978 ?/Sep/14 AltLd
with pam
Hidden 02/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
jcw ??/2014 -
ian d f ??/2014 AltLd O/S

led odd pitches

burto 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with ferdia
AndyL 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
ferdia 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Kirill 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3, P5, P7. Top quality route, although P6 and P7 lack the line.

with Stevo
Paul ablitt 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S

4hrs in guide book time

with Sarah
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/13 AltLd

I did the even pitches, a great route

Hidden 03/Aug/12 2nd
jezb1 25/Jul/12 AltLd

Awesome route. Had to bail a couple of pitches from the top due to showers coming through. Lead both the crux pitches which were fantastic and quite sustained. E1 5b I reckon.

The Ivanator 25/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Did first 4 pitches (including both crux pitches) before rain forced an abseil retreat. I only led p2, but managed to second the rest cleanly, good leads on 1 & 3 from Jez. Several 5b sequences and sustained so easily worth E1 in UK money.

with Jez
John Nuttall 16/Jul/12 AltLd

Same route as Shubert? Fine route but Big Micheluzzi even better.

with Andy H
duncan 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

5 hours. E1-ish.

clipskipper 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Quite excellent climb, with good pitches all the way. Lovely pockets and solid rock, with technical sections to keep the interest.

with Davey Boy
Hidden 22/Aug/10 AltLd
Nicos 24/Sep/07 Lead O/S
WB ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Guy
cem 04/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

Led p 1, 3, 5 & 7. 5 hours. An ironic name for us, as we got into an altercation with some Austrian idiots who arrogantly thought they would overtake us & then discovered that they couldn't climb faster than us after all

with Bryan Rynne
chris wyatt ?/Aug/05 -
with Mike Barclay
Hidden 06/Jul/04 Lead O/S
akhughes ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
Hidden 14/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
pete johnson ?/Aug/96 -
with Lun
Dave Musgrove 25/Jul/94 AltLd

Excellent climbing from the top we continued via the SW Diedre. A great day out

with David
tjekel ??/1993 -
Hidden 06/Aug/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/87 Lead
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High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
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