250m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Dynamic and varied climbing make this another popular route on the face. The route is sometimes called the 'Route of Friendship, Schubert and Matthies' in memory of their friend Harald Siebold who died in a climbing accident. Equipped stances and some fixed gear.
Start 20m left of the huge rift in the rock, at the base of the rightwards-trending overhanging corner-crack below a series of roofs.
1) V+, 30m. Climb the steep corner then exit left at a peg. Climb cracks direct towards the roof then traverse right below it and move up to a stance on its right edge.
2) V, 40m. Follow a long crack, moving right into a short corner then back left into the crack and pull through a niche to reach a ledge.
3) VI-, 40m. Climb a corner-crack left of the ledge to a small pulpit. Follow a crack direct then left again to a stance in the yellow crack.
4) V-, 40m. Follow the yellow crack right to a pulpit, then move back left. Climb direct up the well-pegged wall above to a bolted stance.
5) V, 25m. Traverse left around the arete then climb direct to a ledge.
6) V, 45m. Move diagonally right from the ledge then climb a crack to another terrace on the right. Step right and climb direct, keeping left of a bulge until reaching three pegs on top of a pillar below an overhang.
7) IV, 45m. Traverse right below the overhang then move up and back left to a ledge. Climb direct to a niche (possible belay) then exit this left and continue direct to the ledge.
FA. Schubert, Matthies 1967 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Right hand side of lower tier . Piz Ciavazes

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Mike Hood 23 Sep, 2018 AltLd
jonathan_doyle 14 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S First pitch is probably the hardest with the VI- not far behind. Well protected when most needed, although very run out in sections. There will be a peg soon..
First pitch is probably the hardest with the VI- not far behind. Well protected when most needed, although very run out in sections. There will be a peg soon..
Dexter JW 14 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Teshil 10 Sep, 2018 2nd
will_benfold 10 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1, second half of P2, P4, P6
with Teshil, mihai
Led P1, second half of P2, P4, P6
with Teshil, mihai
Matt Amos 9 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Nice route with all sorts it types of climbing included. Felt soft and very well protected. Abseiled down as there was no party below.
with Deary65
Nice route with all sorts it types of climbing included. Felt soft and very well protected. Abseiled down as there was no party below.
with Deary65
hannahlee15 27 Aug, 2018 2nd Bailed after 2 pitches due to quicker party close behind and heavy rucksack (seconding was strenuous!)
with Dave Adler
Bailed after 2 pitches due to quicker party close behind and heavy rucksack (seconding was strenuous!)
with Dave Adler
peterbeaumont ?Aug, 2018 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2018 Lead really good route - best of trip. amazing rock and no grass!
with Alison Culshaw
really good route - best of trip. amazing rock and no grass!
with Alison Culshaw
Maz J 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2, 4,6. Awesome route - really enjoyed it.
Led pitches 2, 4,6. Awesome route - really enjoyed it.
Hidden 19 Jun, 2018 -
davkeo 18 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf Bailed after first pitch as the gully to the right was spitting down ice/rock from above. We figured the route would be far enough left from danger but things got a little too close for comfort. P1 was kind of scary with a lot of the rock feeling/looking suspect. Especially under the roof traverse. Climbing was good if a bit bold & felt about E1 5a.
Bailed after first pitch as the gully to the right was spitting down ice/rock from above. We figured the route would be far enough left from danger but things got a little too close for comfort. P1 was kind of scary with a lot of the rock feeling/looking suspect. Especially under the roof traverse. Climbing was good if a bit bold & felt about E1 5a.
Hidden 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 30 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
James Rigby 29 Aug, 2017 2nd Massive, not used to dolerite but loved exposure and the massive ab descent. Good taster of the dolomites will be back soon.... my right shoe is way to tight for massive multipitch climbs
with Manuel
Massive, not used to dolerite but loved exposure and the massive ab descent. Good taster of the dolomites will be back soon.... my right shoe is way to tight for massive multipitch climbs
with Manuel
malone 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Appleby
with Appleby
Appleby 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with malone
with malone
Julesthe1st 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Outstanding route. The first pitch gets Vl in some guidebooks. Some of the run-outs are huge but the rock quality is superb so with a considered steady lead it's not an issue. Lead all pitches. Enjoyed all of them!
Outstanding route. The first pitch gets Vl in some guidebooks. Some of the run-outs are huge but the rock quality is superb so with a considered steady lead it's not an issue. Lead all pitches. Enjoyed all of them!
PilarMartinez 13 Jul, 2017 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2017 Lead
Bernie L 28 May, 2017 Lead O/S Lead all pitches in just over 3.5hrs. Accidentally did an alternative P6 which felt like VI+, directly up from the belay into the corner/crack and then left to the same stance as the pitch in the topo.
with Simon Do
Lead all pitches in just over 3.5hrs. Accidentally did an alternative P6 which felt like VI+, directly up from the belay into the corner/crack and then left to the same stance as the pitch in the topo.
with Simon Do
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
Stoney Boy 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S First 4 pitches before the sun came round.
with Uli
First 4 pitches before the sun came round.
with Uli
Dizz 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led the odd pitches - crux excellent ... felt e2 5c but maybe I'm just soft! :)
with Martina
Led the odd pitches - crux excellent ... felt e2 5c but maybe I'm just soft! :)
with Martina
JonnoP 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with rikh
with rikh
Kris 20 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Stickle Tarn 14 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Well equipped stances, many pegs in the harder areas. Tip, take 4-6 extendable runners; also good for threading the pegs rather than using a snap gate.
Well equipped stances, many pegs in the harder areas. Tip, take 4-6 extendable runners; also good for threading the pegs rather than using a snap gate.
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 Lead
esther 24 Aug, 2015 AltLd
dodfoster 24 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with esther
with esther
tatz45 9 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Oli
with Oli
Hidden 9 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
cayteye 20 Jul, 2015 2nd rpt
with mike stober
with mike stober
islandlynx 27 May, 2015 AltLd Led p1 3 5 7, we split pitch 3 in two. 6 hours, 1.5 for casual descent to car park. Great route.
with Matt77
Led p1 3 5 7, we split pitch 3 in two. 6 hours, 1.5 for casual descent to car park. Great route.
with Matt77
Matt77 27 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Fantastic route. I did pitches 2.0 (we split it in to 2 pitches), 3, 5 and 7.
with Shane
Fantastic route. I did pitches 2.0 (we split it in to 2 pitches), 3, 5 and 7.
with Shane
Flavio 9 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
with robinge
with robinge
james1978 ?Sep, 2014 AltLd
with pam
with pam
Hidden 2 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 8 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
jcw ??, 2014 -
ian d f ??, 2014 AltLd O/S led odd pitches
led odd pitches
burto 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with ferdia
with ferdia
AndyL 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with CalumC
with CalumC
ferdia 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with burto
with burto
Kirill 29 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1, P3, P5, P7. Top quality route, although P6 and P7 lack the line.
Led P1, P3, P5, P7. Top quality route, although P6 and P7 lack the line.
Paul ablitt 6 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S 4hrs in guide book time
with Rushy
4hrs in guide book time
with Rushy
CurlyStevo ?Aug, 2013 AltLd I did the even pitches, a great route
with Kirill
I did the even pitches, a great route
with Kirill
Hidden 3 Aug, 2012 2nd
jezb1 25 Jul, 2012 AltLd Awesome route. Had to bail a couple of pitches from the top due to showers coming through. Lead both the crux pitches which were fantastic and quite sustained. E1 5b I reckon.
Awesome route. Had to bail a couple of pitches from the top due to showers coming through. Lead both the crux pitches which were fantastic and quite sustained. E1 5b I reckon.
The Ivanator 25 Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf Did first 4 pitches (including both crux pitches) before rain forced an abseil retreat. I only led p2, but managed to second the rest cleanly, good leads on 1 & 3 from Jez. Several 5b sequences and sustained so easily worth E1 in UK money.
with jezb1
Did first 4 pitches (including both crux pitches) before rain forced an abseil retreat. I only led p2, but managed to second the rest cleanly, good leads on 1 & 3 from Jez. Several 5b sequences and sustained so easily worth E1 in UK money.
with jezb1
John Nuttall 16 Jul, 2012 AltLd Same route as Shubert? Fine route but Big Micheluzzi even better.
with Andy H
Same route as Shubert? Fine route but Big Micheluzzi even better.
with Andy H
duncan 15 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S 5 hours. E1-ish.
5 hours. E1-ish.
clipskipper 30 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Quite excellent climb, with good pitches all the way. Lovely pockets and solid rock, with technical sections to keep the interest.
with Davey Boy
Quite excellent climb, with good pitches all the way. Lovely pockets and solid rock, with technical sections to keep the interest.
with Davey Boy
steveb2006 22 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Chris Parkin
with Chris Parkin
WB ?Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
cem 4 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S Led p 1, 3, 5 & 7. 5 hours. An ironic name for us, as we got into an altercation with some Austrian idiots who arrogantly thought they would overtake us & then discovered that they couldn't climb faster than us after all
with Bryan Rynne
Led p 1, 3, 5 & 7. 5 hours. An ironic name for us, as we got into an altercation with some Austrian idiots who arrogantly thought they would overtake us & then discovered that they couldn't climb faster than us after all
with Bryan Rynne
chris wyatt ?Aug, 2005 -
with Mike Barclay
with Mike Barclay
Hidden 6 Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
akhughes ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
with Steptoe
NickJH ?Aug, 2001 AltLd
with RGraves
with RGraves
Hidden 14 Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd
pete johnson ?Aug, 1996 -
with Lun
with Lun
Dave Musgrove 25 Jul, 1994 AltLd Excellent climbing from the top we continued via the SW Diedre. A great day out
Excellent climbing from the top we continued via the SW Diedre. A great day out
tjekel ??, 1993 -
Hidden 6 Aug, 1988 AltLd O/S
clampton ?Jun, 1987 Lead
with Cammy Phair
with Cammy Phair
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set