Rockfax Description
A testing series of moves on tiny pockets single out this line that is short on length, but great in difficulty. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 18/Sep/1993

Ticklists: Portland.

RKirke 18/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Caitlin
Caitlin 18/Nov/17 2nd
with Roger
Carl 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Didn't pull on that many pockets, but pulled pretty hard on the ones I did.

with Robin G
Rgledable 29/Oct/17 Lead dog

First bolt is quite high but the climbing to get to it is significantly easier than the rest of the route. Requires pulling hard in a few places. Took a fall about half way up when my foot slipped, but managed the move on the second try.

with Carl H
Hidden 16/Oct/17 Lead O/S
will_of_fortune 15/Oct/17 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead dog
Cyrees ?/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Kinge 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Rob
fammer 27/Aug/17 Lead RP
danbirkby 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Will
Owen Davies 01/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Tough. High in the grade.

Papa J Love 29/Jul/17 Lead dog
camara_p 29/Jul/17 Lead dog

Section around second bolt is tricky to figure out. Had to give it a few gos until I found some nice pockets.

philluu 01/Jul/17 Lead
JamesBurton 24/Jun/17 TR
gethin_allen 24/Jun/17 -
with Dr Mike
Saurusrock 20/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Climbed before, but needed to recover some draws for the club. Fun route!

with Josh Short
stephenhoper 18/Jun/17 Lead dnf


with Dugster
Dugster 18/Jun/17 Lead
with Stephen hoper
Remyveness 04/Jun/17 Lead rpt
KAckroyd 04/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Ao-Hin
AHTang 04/Jun/17 Lead O/S

nearly fell and decked due to foot slippage whilst clipping 2nd bolt but managed to hold on. good technical route

Tommackie 06/May/17 Lead O/S
harrybeadle 06/May/17 Lead dnf

Tough - could've gotten the RP but saved strength for other routes.

RussLuckhurst 06/May/17 Lead O/S
Jack Turner 10/Apr/17 Lead dog
with Esther Pullen
LukeWS 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Great delicate slab moves in the middle section.

with Ben Gilbert
Hidden 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
bpw666 02/Apr/17 Lead dog
Cara 02/Apr/17 2nd dog

Got past the crux clean and then had to rest on the rope before finishing the climb.

with Phoebe
Roland stopps 28/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/17 2nd
hanncoom 18/Mar/17 TR
Sp101297 18/Mar/17 TR O/S
with Hannah
Hidden 05/Feb/17 Lead O/S
oli87 28/Jan/17 Lead O/S
Josh Hadley 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
PaddyFreer 07/Oct/16 2nd
with freec
freec 07/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Great climb. 2nd lead of this. Lovely traverse on thin holds followed by tricky high foot to gain slab and easy finish.

Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
nicholsonharry 20/Aug/16 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead RP
Xelif 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Jen
Jen BXM S 23/Jul/16 Lead dog
Saurusrock 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Louise Fitzgerald
Whipinator 12/Jun/16 Lead O/S

A little fluttery at points being so close to the ground but solid rock.

Hejones 19/May/16 TR
Ebebbers 19/May/16 Lead
MartinW92 17/Apr/16 Lead dog
JonoDHawkins 20/Mar/16 Lead dog

Fell through the crux, but got further than Peter and eventually did it clean to the top.

with Peter
rosso 20/Mar/16 Lead dnf
with Jono
crossleysm 14/Feb/16 -
Rembrandt 14/Feb/16 Lead dog
tmaciel 14/Feb/16 -
AnniH 14/Feb/16 TR
HarryGalliano122 ??/2016 Lead

Really nice problem this :)

Jack Shewring 10/Oct/15 Lead RP

Second go. Hard and technical slab, very thin.

s1362083 27/Sep/15 TR dog
super/frets 27/Aug/15 Lead β
SarahElizabethMoran 27/Aug/15 Lead

Enjoyed this :)

HazelMacLean 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Committing slab, just my cup of tea. Heather took a mad fall on it though and is consequently broken so it gets a 6/10 from me.

with Heather Mungin
Adam Perrett 11/Aug/15 Lead RP
kirtus86 12/Jul/15 Lead β
Hidden 27/Jun/15 TR
Greg Jones 27/Jun/15 Lead RP

2nd attempt. Went too far left and missed the pocket. beautiful move sequence through the middle section

with Charlotte
beakerburgess 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with charlotte graves, greg jones
GeneralFifi 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
sonic46 17/May/15 Lead

Lovely route - the jug was a welcome find 😀

Matt Smith 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 TR dog
BenG32 26/Apr/15 TR

Tried direct through the cave. Hard to get on the ledge. Restarted on the correct line.

with Nat
Spillers 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ant Williams
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Sep/14 -
with martin broadhurst
netgull 24/Aug/14 TR β

Enjoyed this climb. Technical with pockets, crimps and rockovers. Will go on lead but started raining.

Patu 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Beautifully technical. Don't go for the chalked red herring hold on the far right, stay on the thin wall with only the two pockets.

Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
WeeLee 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
PastyBoy84 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Liam Dervey
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead dog
meltdown34 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, technical for feet on small hand holds, very easy finish above last clip

Echna 26/May/14 Lead β
with Alex, Rich
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead RP
samparsons 13/May/14 Lead
pc1983 04/May/14 Lead O/S

A delicate move on the midsection followed by easy climbing.

Hidden 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
mattc 02/Dec/13 Lead RP
CurlyStevo ?/Sep/13 Lead
with Rob
tommccluskey 28/Aug/13 Lead β
with Jess
dereke12000 07/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Made the second clip then baled out.

with Rich
Maxim2023 ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Pete Dangerous 26/May/13 Lead RP
with Kamil
cpoad 25/May/13 Lead dog

Hung moving up from finger pocket

with Kerry W
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
odyxanthi ?/May/13 Lead rpt
with Artur Malzcuk
Gavdee1 06/Apr/13 Lead β
rustaldo 10/Nov/12 Lead rpt
with Aimee
akhutton88 10/Nov/12 2nd

Bolts are in odd places.

sambosanquet101 16/Sep/12 Lead
with Chris Rushe
GeorgeA 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/12 2nd
Alex Bryant ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
LeahJamie 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

with mrtom
Mr Tumness 04/Jun/12 Lead
with Rob Judd
Humm1985 04/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead O/S
philhaigh 14/May/12 Lead O/S
nataliehaigh 14/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead dog
Danny Crump 12/May/12 Lead
cameronmcloughlin 06/May/12 Lead O/S
khalidq 06/May/12 TR β

Spent 15mins moving left. Difficult start to the day!

Keendan 03/Apr/12 Lead O/S

very thin

Jordan.round 02/Apr/12 TR dog
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead RP
nath_casper 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
elCapitano 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd
Georgia H ?/Apr/12 TR
Nick_Merriman ?/Apr/12 Lead
alexcollins123 ?/Apr/12 2nd
alexcollins123 27/Mar/12 Lead β
Stefan_Morris 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Jen 'Banksy' Banks 27/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Fraser
Fraser hill-casey 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with stefan morris
John Bish ?/Mar/12 Lead
Hinchrn 29/Jan/12 Lead β
rustaldo 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden ??/2012 TR dnf
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
petecox84 ??/2012 -
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 07/Oct/11 Lead
JackHatton 07/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with richy mardell
Neil Tucker 02/Oct/11 Lead
with Robert Bronsdon, Richard Reynolds
Brian H 28/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Rik
TiffTiff 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with mel, Tom
ElBarto 30/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Thought this was a different route but got to the second bolt.

laurence orchard 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
fildac 01/Jun/11 Lead rpt
tbs105 30/Apr/11 -
Jonathan Emett 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

alzheimer's onsight

Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead dog
scottjowett 17/Apr/11 TR dog
with Phil, trevor macalonan
trevor macalonan 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Scott
dobby 200 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
dobby 200 10/Apr/11 Lead dog
Ciro 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
el_monty 17/Feb/11 Lead RP
robajob 17/Feb/11 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 17/Feb/11 Lead β
with Rob
Rupey 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with sam and helen
robandian ?/Aug/10 Lead
Tom Heslam ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Rosea
AlexD 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

felt hard until hidden pockets were located!

Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead
Sparky!!!3 16/Jun/10 Lead
Alex More 16/Jun/10 Lead
with Sparky
Daniel Wicks 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
MontyH 05/Jun/10 Lead
with lee
Tommy Harris ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
johnl 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Andy Dunford
Steve954 17/Apr/10 Lead dog

Good climb but needed clipstich to get 3rd bolt

with Rich
Burt ?/Apr/10 Lead
JimBee ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Julia Lindberg, Jon Wichett, Andy Kuszyk, Ian Burt
jamespilgrim 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
jamespilgrim 22/Aug/09 Lead dog

Easy top and bottom section but some clever moves required in the middle - should go clean next visit

with Ash
LiLaMont 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Houghton
Ceridwen 12/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Heather
clgladiator 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Ducky
Pete Sanger 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with chris
leemaybr05 01/Jun/09 TR O/S
with Beckie Bale
Hidden ?/Jun/09 TR rpt
ag_hind 25/May/09 TR dog
with Lindsay
krikoman 25/May/09 Lead rpt

Climbed twice, after climbing it last year couldn't work out the moves. Went out far to the left and it was easy, but not 6a+. Tried again more direct but still not like last year.

with Greg Childs, Kev Gibbs
trev_f 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Mike H
FrostyWebb 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Rich D
Ceridwen ?/Jan/09 Lead RP
with Martin
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Ben Tyrrell 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 02/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Lee
richardr ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
krikoman 24/May/08 Lead O/S

Easy Start, Hard to the middle then too easy after that. Nice deleicate moves but too short.

with Chris Walsh, Kev Gibbs
dmoir 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Gid
cliffy 26/Apr/08 TR
with Carolyn Lyness
rhino_bill 03/Feb/08 Lead dog
vertigo 03/Feb/08 Lead O/S
pennyb 07/Oct/07 TR
with A School Group (with Jon)
jl 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Penny
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead
Somerset swede basher 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with John Sargeant
PhilWragg 28/Apr/07 Lead
Lloyders ??/2007 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2007 -
Dandan82 ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rich
tobydunford 08/Oct/06 Lead dog

Hard for 6a+, still enjoyable once i worked it out.

maybe_si 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
guyblackwood 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with David, Ricardo, Olga
mrblue ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with James
Noodles ?/Jun/06 Lead

Great finger pocket. Pooed myself but made it

with James Andrews, Simon Downing
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
cart 24/Mar/06 TR RP

Short but difficult. Top section above crack seems totally smooth on first attempt.

with Jack England
A Longleat Boulderer ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Oli
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
ellie macpherson ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with mike henesey
chris murnin 04/Aug/05 Lead
PWEI_fan ?/Aug/05 -
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead rpt
Wilbur 23/Apr/05 Lead RP
with mgjones
Richard Horn ??/2004 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Dec/02 Lead RP
Mark A Humphries 17/Feb/02 Lead RP
with dean howard
FrankW 30/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with James R
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
CrashMat Rob 25/May/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
rob.grafton 06/Jul/97 2nd
with Paul McCann, Bruce
Adi Hooper ??/1997 Lead
with Sherborne Adventure Group
Hidden 16/Jun/96 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 18/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
Dringo ??/1995 -
Didymus 26/Jun/94 Lead RP
Hidden 08/May/94 -
Ben Thorne ??/1994 Lead RP

First 6a+ back in '94.

with Rich Howard
Nigel Coe ??/1993 -

Approx date

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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set