This is one of the shortest routes on Cima Grande and once again displays Hans Dülfer's penchant for supremely logical lines, tackling the straight corner which carves through the west face. The route is of a consistent grade and the rock is excellent but often damp, since the route receives little sun due to it being in the shadows between the two great Cimas.
Start below and just left of the vertical corner. The route is often marked by a large thread.
1) V+, 35m. Climb the right side of a small tower at the base of the face, then trend right to a ledge. Continue direct up a strenuous crack then move right again to another ledge before the corner. Cross this right, gain the corner and continue with strenuous climbing to a large ledge on the left side.
2) V+, 30m. Continue up the corner, following a wonderful crack with plenty of gear, to reach an uncomfortable stance.
3) V, 40m. Continue in the same line, passing an intermediate stance, to belay below a large chockstone some 10m above.
4) V, 20m. Continue towards the chockstone, moving right before reaching it. Just above, move back left to a stance.
5) IV+, 35m. Follow the wider corner-chimney, moving onto the left side and exiting onto a wide ledge.
6) IV+, 40m. Traverse right, just above the ledge, to reach a vertical crack forming the left side of a small pillar. Climb this direct on good holds, moving right to enter a chimney gully.
7) II, 40. Follow easy ground up the gully and exit right to reach the ledge of the Ringband Terrace.
It is possible to continue to the summit via the final pitches of the Normal Route (see page 456). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A proper Alpine experience, with difficult route finding and a waterfall!