Rockfax Description
18m. Follow South Wall Traverse to the bulges but step down and traverse awkwardly rightwards below these to reach a poor rest below a thin crack. Up this on pockets then swing right again to a final tricky move. Devious but superb. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Complete Dolphin Collection, ARD Yorkshire Grit, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven..

freudy_love 18/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Captain Solo 18/Oct/17 2nd
with Paul
Paul ablitt 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Lucy
robbjackson 27/Aug/17 Lead dog
with Iain Johnston
shaunhumphreys 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S
mrteale 29/Jul/17 2nd

surprisingly good climbing for an odd line!

Jono_LS16 15/Jul/17 Solo
Tom_Shill 12/Jul/17 Lead
williap 12/Jul/17 2nd
LMS 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S

After a slow and shakey start really enjoyed it! Got to trust the feet! fab route, very pleased to finish it as was getting pretty tired. Thanks Christy for not complaining about belaying in the rain so I could do it!

climberchristy 07/Jul/17 2nd rpt

Lynn did really well to onsight this especially in the rain. Enjoyed seconding it despite some very wet holds at the bottom.

with LMS
Georgie25 02/Jul/17 2nd

Took a little fall when got tired and pumped

Keith Swainson 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/17 -
scarmichael 06/May/17 Lead O/S
with Steve Wooton
Tom.Priestley 24/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Nice, pumpy.

nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
Steve Wootton 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/16 Solo O/S
DavidR 05/Jul/16 Lead rpt
AC1 27/Jun/16 -
with Michael Barnard
Mike Todd 19/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Teappleby 29/May/16 Lead

Rather boxey for HVS, great trip across the wall.

Dawn_K_B 29/May/16 2nd O/S

Tom's claim that the start was a severe has got to be a lie, hardest part of the route!

williap 16/Apr/16 Lead
Mike Todd 20/Aug/15 Lead rpt
tim newton 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S

As someone said before, crux is by far the VS start, especially if you're short!

Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead
1poundSOCKS 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Definitely feels like E1 if you miss some very large holds above your head in the middle of the traverse. :)

1poundSOCKS 04/Jun/15 2nd rpt

Had to second my own lead when Megan got cragfast at the move onto the slab. Definitely would've protected the traverse better if I knew I'd have to second it. :)

Hidden 14/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/15 2nd
Luke Jones 21/Apr/15 2nd dog
DavidR 21/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Bloke on a Rope 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Good warm up route, wouldn't complain with HVS loads of good gear placements.

with Matt
Climbster 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S
williap ?/Apr/15 2nd
MFB 05/Nov/14 2nd
rob.grafton 02/Nov/14 Lead
with Jim
samwillo 26/Sep/14 Solo
with Tom Fleming
Bron H 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 17/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Stuart Lancaster
DavidR 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Olli-C 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Waddle
tsjx 09/Jul/14 2nd
with John Mc
Wizzy 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
bencole ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt
rob.grafton 21/May/14 Lead
with Craig
Hidden 02/May/14 2nd β
tomB 05/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Juliette
Matt crawford 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Taba
watson.b 22/Mar/14 2nd dnf

Started to rain do couldn't get onto the slab

with Mark
pastep 12/Jan/14 Lead
Nez ??/2014 -
Mike Todd 17/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Kevin
elCapitano 17/Nov/13 2nd rpt
with Dave Sarkar
Rhys Macallister 21/Sep/13 2nd
PaulTanton 21/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Dino Dave 08/Sep/13 Lead β
with Dad
Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
ERH 15/Aug/13 2nd
with Ben Finley
oread 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First 5b

Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
vanderz ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
elCapitano 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Jonny
MikeLeeds 04/Jul/13 2nd
James Oakes 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
braders94 04/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/13 2nd
Calum Wadsworth 14/May/13 Lead O/S
with Harrogate club
Hidden 14/May/13 2nd O/S
ebf 21/Apr/13 Lead
pastep 21/Apr/13 2nd

Great line with a pumpy finish, well led by Stew.

with ebf
Andrew Wilson 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S
peteJ23 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Sam Marks 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S

nice, shame i went and fell off blackwall eliminate the git!

Matthew Ferrier 19/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
rob.grafton 30/Nov/12 Lead
with chris pugh
nick ferro 20/Oct/12 -
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Julian Cooper 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Stuart Knott
rob.grafton 28/Sep/12 Lead
with Tony Womersley
deacondeacon 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Hardly E1, the crux is the VS start. Quite nice route though.

a13x 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Harry Mcghie
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Got pretty pumped at the end of the traverse right!

with Andy
Hidden 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
petekeron 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Brock
Harry Holmes 18/Aug/12 Solo O/S
DavidR 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
David_Gledson 02/Aug/12 Lead dog

Fell off the last move after getting the sequence totally wrong. Stay right and avoid the obvious hold on the top left.

with Tom
nai 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Luke
riven 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Chriswallis2 15/Jul/12 Lead β
with Joe
Hidden ?/Jul/12 2nd
Marq 18/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Neil Redgrave (LMC)
MeMeMe 30/May/12 Lead
wayne higgins leeds uk 23/May/12 Lead O/S
Si dH 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Failed on this several years ago.

with Chris Foster
danny33 12/Mar/12 Lead
TRFrost 12/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with D. Armstrong
robertmichaellovell 10/Mar/12 2nd
with Sam, Clare
JonG ??/2012 -
bigdrew 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
mark20 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
benchwarmer 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S

A Brilliant Climb!! A massive thanks to Ewan (Ebenchwarmer) for 2nding as the planned abseils would have been in the dark & we would have missed dinner before Becky's mums concert! Also thanks Bex for the belay x

with Becky E
Matt_L_Robinson 06/Nov/11 Lead β

previously seconded, wanted to lead for a while. great route, probably over graded in rockfax.

Mowglee 30/Oct/11 2nd rpt

Part of the Full Almscliff girdle...

with Tom Nichols, Ewan
jacobjacob 29/Oct/11 Solo β
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jkarran 23/Oct/11 2nd
with Aly
Peter Smith 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Mick Leather
Matt Cooke 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cooke
TRFrost 27/Sep/11 2nd dog
with D. Mckinlay
dave o 20/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Graham
gforce 20/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Dave O
Jack00 17/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Hannah Hunt
Robin Warden ?/Aug/11 2nd
with rob weston
bigbirdflying 23/Jul/11 2nd
with Dean
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/11 Solo rpt
CragDog 02/Jun/11 Lead RP
fast eddie ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

A reasonable proposition at HVS. Had done the bits of other routes that this crosses.

mattnuttall 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
David_Gledson 07/Apr/11 Lead

Very nice route, felt pretty easy(at hvs, never ever e1 as per rockfax), although the rock was in perfect condition.

timmsy 07/Apr/11 2nd
robin_hackney 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice little route. The second can leave the cam on the arête until after the mantel has been completed to reduce swing potential. Traverse great and last few moves are fantastic.

with Failure of my second - I had to second it myself :(
Mowglee 08/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Pretty pumpy toward the finish, but such bomber gear all along, it's never E1

with Tom Nichols
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
nick ferro 27/Nov/10 -
mike bridges 17/Oct/10 2nd

Cold!! Rob`s 1st runner of the ramp,2nd runner...after stepping round the corner after the slab. Proper swing potential! ha ha. Not too bad climbing though.good selection of runners on the traverse(phew!)ended up getting pumped (too cold!)and had to rest before making the last 2 moves.Damn!

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead rpt
ollyroberts 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Harry
ekaterina sigida 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Awesome climb. Very technical which is my style. Same start as the south wall trav. Had a couple of sections where i would have swung if i would have came off, but i didn't :)

with Rob Bridges
roberto18 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead dog
andy mcc 18/Aug/10 2nd
with Jason King
akhughes 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
coombsy ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
nick ferro 30/Jun/10 -
MikeLeeds 21/Jun/10 2nd
clive-greenwood 21/Jun/10 Lead β
lithos 17/Jun/10 Lead

hard scary polished start lovely traverse and interesting move up to the break at the end. great gear (part from first moves)

pebbles 16/Jun/10 2nd

bottom section bold and polished, reachy move after the first gear

with rob
markfairbank 02/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Ray Sharples, Mick D
roberto18 31/May/10 2nd
with Tom Nickols
mattyork2 15/May/10 2nd
with Johnny Richard
Rowansb 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Gareth
Mowglee 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Rowan
Hidden 10/Apr/10 -
simonp ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
neil0968 ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ewan Russell 30/Sep/09 Lead dog

couldn't get the final hold, had to rest on the cams. Went rather easily after the rest.

with Jim
markfairbank 26/Sep/09 Lead dog

Had latched the final jug after cruising it and my foot inadvertantly slipped and down I came - words cannot describe how gutted I was :)

with Mick D
GrantB 15/Sep/09 Lead
with James
jkarran 15/Sep/09 Lead

Long, pumpy and crossing some interesting terrain. Crux is probably the sketchy polished start.

with Grant, Jim
Jimmy57 15/Sep/09 2nd dog
with Grant, James Karran
briar4012 08/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Simon
leepip 16/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with GUY VG
Bill Lawrence 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with al mason, andy gravestock
DavidR 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Mattyk 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Wasn't very helpful to my 2nd.. well pleased with this tick!! Excellent traverse that covers some of the less visited bits of the crag.

with Tash & Ali
brockers 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely wonderful route. Easy. And definitely NOT E1

with Chris Latz
Hidden 18/Jun/09 -
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead
Dave Foster 23/May/09 Lead rpt

Pumped out and jumped off the crux. Pulled ropes and lead clean second go. Good route but found it quite difficult to read.

with Andy
Ram MkiV 23/Apr/09 Solo O/S
with Al
Jack00 21/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Cragrat Rich
Stig 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Chris
chrishedgehog 18/Apr/09 Lead β
with James
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Shaw Brown 22/Nov/08 Lead
GPN 22/Nov/08 2nd
Martin Haworth 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Marek
Toby Dunn ?/Sep/08 -
MikeLeeds 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S
clive-greenwood ?/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/08 2nd
karly54 18/Jul/08 Lead O/S
sdi 12/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Tom K
Peter Smith 07/Jun/08 Lead
mike fenwick ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Ben Pearce
Hidden 24/Apr/08 Lead O/S
tomB 04/Apr/08 2nd rpt
with Ross Pimlott
IanJackson 09/Mar/08 Solo O/S

Not really onsight as it linked 3 routes ive done before...

with Robeverybody
Will Hunt 13/Feb/08 2nd O/S
alaan 19/Jan/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/07 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 26/Sep/07 2nd dog

Too pumped!

with John A
Chad123 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Excellent and long, varied route, sadly polished at the start. Only has one tricky move really so more like HVS 5b. (especially when compared to other HVSs at this cliff!)

with Rik
Hidden 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
tomB 05/May/07 Lead dnf
Xav 19/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Greg Grace
Jack00 11/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Dan Short
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
joe larner 25/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Not my first E1, quite hard for a HVS but there definately is not a 5B move on it and its well protected so HVS.

Sean_J ??/2007 2nd β
with Timmy
Hidden 09/Jun/06 Lead
Luke Brooks 23/Mar/06 Lead O/S

Erm...this is actually HVS 5a, as it says in the guide. Definately no 5b moves to be seen.

Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
mike fenwick ?/Nov/05 Solo

back rope solo with rests

Hidden 29/Oct/05 2nd O/S
reg_measures ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Ralph
MazElden ??/2005 -
sdht ??/2005 -
wahniel 09/Dec/04 Lead O/S
with Hugh Squire
Brown 23/Sep/04 Lead
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead
Rich Guest ?/Sep/03 Lead

Didn`t realise Rockfax consider this E1? Freed after a dogged lead and repeated numerous times

Hidden 31/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Oliver Sherman 14/Jun/03 Lead
Matt Rowat 16/Mar/03 Lead O/S

Defo HVS 5a. The end.

with Lewis
Hidden ??/2003 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
shoulders 08/Jul/02 Lead
with dai
cem 29/Jun/02 2nd
with Rod Strachan
pezzerrr 23/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 2nd O/S
Paul Figg 11/Jun/00 -
Martin Bennett 20/May/00 -
with MT
Jonathan Richardson ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Bug ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Roget 26/Oct/99 Solo O/S
with jon
Tenko 06/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Jez Wardman
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead β
ajc 16/May/99 2nd O/S
leathers 20/May/98 Lead dog
with John Barnard
nickdonohue 16/May/98 Lead
with Aoifa, Derek Ashworth
innes ?/May/98 Solo
jameshiggins ??/1998 -
Hidden 10/Aug/96 2nd O/S
SR1970 ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
tlr 20/Jun/96 Lead
with Pete D
jcw 08/Jun/96 2nd
with Martin Harris
Chris Reid 13/Aug/95 Lead O/S
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
rurp ??/1995 Lead O/S
tompercy 06/Nov/94 Lead
with Tom Brunt
Hidden ?/Oct/94 Solo
Dave Musgrove 21/Jul/93 Solo
crater 23/Jun/93 Lead O/S
adam carless ??/1993 Lead rpt

seconded a couple of times before, finally decided the starting polish wasn't going to get any better.

jhardwick ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/91 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/91 Lead O/S
jfletcher 26/Aug/91 Solo
John Southworth 18/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1991 Lead
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead

c. 1991

andybirtwistle 12/May/90 Solo
Hidden ??/1990 -
PaulHermes ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with Unsure
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
craig h 03/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Pete Pozman 10/Dec/88 Lead rpt
with John Byrne
RichardMc 28/Oct/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Langmead
Dave Musgrove 16/Oct/88 Lead
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Oct/88 2nd
with Dad
Nick Biven 29/Mar/88 TR
with Martyn Hannan
duncan ??/1988 Solo O/S
with Julian Mathias
Pete Pozman 14/Dec/86 Lead rpt
with John Byrne
Andy Say 11/Sep/85 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/1985 Lead
John Marsland 20/May/84 Lead
with Dave Mould
Roy Stuart ??/1984 Lead
Neil McA 18/Jun/83 Lead O/S
with Terry Ralph
charlesmfrench 14/Mar/82 2nd O/S
with Andy Tallent, Ian Milne
GaryM ??/1981 Lead O/S
with Dale
GeoffG 06/Jun/79 Lead
with tony bowker
Hidden 03/Jun/79 Lead
Andy Nicholson ?/May/79 Solo rpt
uphillnow ??/1979 -
Hidden ??/1977 Lead
Dave Musgrove 16/Jun/72 Lead
Hidden ??/1972 Solo
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set