UKC

Restricted Access

November 2017 update

Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.

The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site. 

2020 update

Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.

15m.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile route on the final section of clean rock. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Outer Pit: Take a direct line up the slabby lower wall to a good break, take the headwall directly.

R Thomas M Crocker G Gibson M ward J Bullock.

Ticklists

South Wales - Road to 7a

Feedback

User Date Notes
Cjjones 25 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Good route clipping the chains is the hardest move
Show beta
βeta: Good route clipping the chains is the hardest move
afshapes 25 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky to clip the lower off ! Pulled on a draw ! Nice moves though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tricky to clip the lower off ! Pulled on a draw ! Nice moves though
Waity94 15 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rock type at top is flaky and think holds have come off over the years, route is still doable with a hairy pull while maki g the clips, may unnerve a few climbers, all in all great route and crux lies on the final bolt
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock type at top is flaky and think holds have come off over the years, route is still doable with a hairy pull while maki g the clips, may unnerve a few climbers, all in all great route and crux lies on the final bolt

Logged Ascents

126 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Taff's Well West

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 10 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Unknown Pleasures

Grade: 6c ***
(Taff's Well)

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