25m. Sharp and chossy. The half height bulge is the crux (poor rock!), but nasty razors with a big runout might bar progress into the 'lions eye'. Span right from the white scoop to good finishing holds just right of the belay, or head up and slightly left (slightly harder), for a better finish.

Matt Cox Apr/2009

Ticklists: Cheddar Eight's, Top 10 hard Bristol Ticks, The next logical step, South West 8's, UK 8a and up.


ClimberDateStyle
DorsetGareth 10/Sep/16 Lead RP

Love this climb, my hardest to date. Took many many sessions, having already climbed lion sleeps tonight. In the end, went smoothly on a beautiful sunny Cheddar evening.

Hidden 27/Jul/16 Lead dog
quiffhanger 22/May/16 Lead RP

Woohooo - finally. First time I'd ever made it through the first crux: milked the rest and made it to the top. Good lesson - always thought I was miles away so had never _really_ tried to get through the first crux.

with Rachel
quiffhanger 08/May/16 Lead dog

Def feel stronger on it that previous years.

with Rachel
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/May/16 Lead dog

Pulled off quite a few holds around the roof. One into my face then down to my belayers head.

with Steph
Duma Brickhill 18/Apr/16 Lead RP

Brilliant! 3 sessions. Good beta from Si meant it went quicker than otherwise.

PeterDawson 22/Oct/15 Lead RP
quiffhanger 11/Oct/15 Lead dog

Can do the top crux reliably. First crux with wet jug is proving hard.

with Rachel
quiffhanger 10/Oct/15 Lead dog

Getting close - just cant have too many goes or run out of skin.

with Rachel
quiffhanger 03/Oct/15 Lead dog

Now getting the cruxes down reliably after some good beta from Si. Eats skin on LH index finger!

with Rachel
quiffhanger 27/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Rachel
brices 21/Jul/15 Lead RP

Such a great route, top effort Matt for the first ascent.

with Tom B, Wendy, Llinos, Tomar
brices 25/Jun/15 Lead dog

Linked to 4th move of top crux and linked from undercut to top. Very Sweaty.

with Tom B
brices 18/Jun/15 Lead dog

Linked most of way through first crux, and did top crux in 2 halves, big improvement from last time.

with Olly
DorsetGareth 25/May/15 TR dog
quiffhanger 21/Mar/15 Lead dnf

Terrible effort. I'm sure the holds have got smaller!

brices 25/Jun/14 Lead dog

Linked to half way through first crux + Got beta sorted for first crux cheers Gaz n Alan.

brices 24/Jun/14 Lead dog

Linked to the first crux, need to firgure out a repeatable way to do this move. Got a good sequence for the top slab.

brices 12/May/14 Lead dog

gona need a lot of work

pezzerrr 09/May/14 Lead RP
quiffhanger 12/Oct/13 Lead dog

Got a manageable sequence for the crux's just need to link now...

lukehodson 17/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Great climbing. Linked to the half height crux, but didn't manage the crux itself. Will be back for this one...

Joe Innes 17/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Linked in two halfs to the crux, didn't manage crux move, but will go with some work. Great route, psyched for more soon!!

quiffhanger 13/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Need to come back with more psych, lower temps & better skin.

Cailean Harker 10/Jul/13 Lead RP

Great route. Climbed in the blazing sun. HOT HOT HOT

Gavinsymonds 06/Oct/11 -
westyb3 29/May/11 Lead RP
with Heather Ogston
marric 15/May/10 Lead RP

Great route. Good shakeouts before both cruxes means it's probably soft for the grade if not 8a.

Ricky Rocks 18/Sep/09 Lead RP

Brilliant route, Is sure to become a cheddar classic.

_m.cox_ ?/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Robyn Nelson
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Voting
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set