Rockfax Description
An incredible link-up that forces a chilling line through some of the Great Cave's most daunting territory. Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's tidal ledges at a short corner below a roof.
1) 5b, 16m. Traverse rightwards between two bands of overhangs to a niche. Pull up rightwards to easier ground and take a hanging belay below a right-leaning rib.
2) 6c, 20m. Climb steeply up until it is possible to make a bunched traverse rightwards past pegs and threads. Make a safe, but very hard move into, and out of an open groove to gain sloping holds above. Continue up on good holds to a bush, then traverse left above the roof to a hanging stance below the corner and capping roof of Dreadnought.
3) 6b, 20m. Climb up the corner to the roof. Move left to gain and follow a thin horizontal flake out over the lip of the roof to some hard moves past a square block and up to the bulge above, peg. Pull through the bulge, thread, and small overlap above to gain a thin break, peg. With difficulty, climb the groove above to an overlap then head up leftwards to a peg belay.
4) 6a, 32m. Move left to a white scoop and climb it to a vague break in a long overhang. Pull through the overhang to flat holds that lead rightwards, thread, to a ledge. Climb the short groove to a blank face above, passing a peg, and make hard moves up until better holds lead out right to a ledge. Finish on good holds. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Mayers Sep/1992.

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