Climbs 107
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces E

Seventh Dread © Kafoozalem

Crag features

BEWARE PARKING FINES. A camera clocks you entering and leaving. No longer can visiting climbers sleep in the car park!

Amazing and surprisingly sound rock which creates both epics and magic days. Perhaps best known for Moonraker (HVS 5a) - is it the best HVS in the country? - Dreadnought (E3 5c), Caveman (E6 6b) and the vast sea traverses of Magical Mystery Tour and Rainbow Bridge.

It is now also a mecca for Deep Water Soloing (DWS) with the publication of the Rockfax Deep Water Guide. The Wizard of Oz is a new extended variation of Rainbow Bridge is touted as "Britain's Best DWS Traverse" and could it really be the best climb in the UK? Article here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218

Dave Henderson's website provides excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

New route info is also found at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml




PLEASE CHECK THE ACCESS NOTES BELOW FOR INFORMATION ABOUT BIRD BANS.

Approach notes

BIRD BAN MARCH 1st TO JULY 31st. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide. There is a £1,000 fine for breaking this, and a camera monitors the cliff, so don't hope. There is a variable access agreement for some parts of Rainbow Bridge but there is no access by the Great Cave. Check the details here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/Rainbow-Bridge-access.shtml. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE PLEASE DON'T CLIMB.

DWS : The BMC now requests Deep water soloists to phone Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting on (01803) 882 704. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Park as for Berry Head Quarry.
Footpath from the seaward end of the car park leads down a steep grassy slope to the sea. Take the rocky scoop to the R, leading to the easy (but very exposed) sea traverse to a non-tidal platform. Don't fall off.

Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematical as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
The Cauldron Rope Bridge (Rainbow Bridge cliff) is back in place Sept 2016. Inspect it and form your own opinion of its safety before using it.
Kafoozalem - 26/Sep/16
August 2016 - The Hood has been cleaned and restored to its former glory. See logbook notes.
Kafoozalem - 04/Aug/16
Car Park - Watch out for the new hostile car registration recognition system. You risk a fine by simply entering the car park. It would be nice if the machines were simpler to use and didn't reject half your coins.
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/15
Top pitch of Dreadnought cleaned and Melinda cleaned, regraded and re-described - see logbook.
Kafoozalem - 29/Sep/14
Goddess of Gloom cleaned Sept 2014. I have exhumed holds and gear placements from the soil on pitch two. Get on it whilst it's in good nick. A superb adventure route a little harder than Moonraker.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/14
Terminal Zawn DWS has suffered from much misreporting. Rockfax Deep Water has several errors. Comeback Kid is Up Yer bum (sorry about that). Terminal Viscosity is really only an inferior RH finish to A Tear Drop in the Sea. Terminal Twelve has possibly never been climbed - there is an awesome line there if you fancy it. I have updated the logbooks accordingly.
Kafoozalem - 25/Aug/14
In case anyone is planning a climb in the Great Cave before the official bird ban; we went to climb Goddess of Gloom today but lots of Guillemots have started to nest already. So wise to make different plans.
Mr Tickle - 09/Feb/13
https://vimeo.com/52489663 Our ascent of Moonraker.
Stanners - 31/Oct/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Magical Mystery Tour traverses
2 Magical Mystery Tour Full E1 5b *** 51
3 Magical Mystery Tour 1 6a+ *** 436
4 Magical Mystery Tour 2 (Blue Grotto pitch) 6a+ ** 71
5 Magical Mystery Tour 3 4a 11
6 Magical Mystery Tour 4 6b ** 10
  Britains best DWS traverse
8 The Wizard of Oz 7b *** 13
  Magical Mystery Tour 1 Area
10 Yard Trimmings 6b+ ** 4
11 Gulliver's Travels XS 6a  
12 Green Grotto Traverse
-
6c ** 5
13 Cave of Dark Deeds
-
XS 5b  
14 Cod is a DJ XS 6a *  
15 This is my Church XS 6b *** 1
16 Let it go XS 5c *  
17 In the Mood XS 5b 1
  The Great Cave
19 Moving Target
-
VS 4c 2
20 The Long goodbye
-
E1 5a 1
21 Lost Arrow HS 2
22 Uncul-Patter
-
E1 5a  
23 L'Obtician
-
E4 6a 1
24 King Crab E1 5a * 4
25 Anti-matter
-
VS 4c 2
26 Sea-Earth-Energy
-
E5 6a ** 1
27 False Alarms
-
E3 5c *  
28 How to Steal a Million
-
E5 6a **  
29 Auk
-
E2 5b  
30 Guinness 6b+ ** 3
31 The High Traverse HVS 5a 1
32 The Seventh Circle
-
E2 5b  
33 Melinda E1 5a 1
34 Pikadon HVS 5a 3
35 Goddess of Gloom HVS 5a ** 40
36 Lunar sea E3 5c * 1
37 The Quaker E3 6a * 3
38 The Hood E3 5c ** 5
39 Crocodile
-
E2 5b  
40 Barbican
-
E3 5c ** 2
41 Dreadnought E3 5c *** 90
42 Moonraker HVS 5a *** 605
43 Caveman E6 6b *** 13
44 Seventh Dread E1 5b *** 32
45 Seventh Dread - Caveman link up E2 5b ** 1
46 The Earthsea Trilogy #3
-
E6 6b ***  
47 Savage/Earthsea Connection E6 6c *** 1
48 Savage E6 6c ***  
49 Terra Cotta E6 6b ***  
50 Cromagnum E8 6c *** 1
51 The New Stone-age
-
E6 6b ***  
52 Killa Gorilla
-
7b * 7
53 The Curse A4 ***  
54 Lip trip
-
E5 6a *** 1
55 Depth Charge E5 6a *** 6
56 Cocoon E8 6c ***  
57 Man O' war E6 6a ** 2
58 Lost Identity E6 6a *  
59 Warspite E5 6a *  
60 The Sub Low Extension E4 6a *  
61 Hands off Whizzy 6c ** 1
62 Warspite in brief
-
6b **  
63 Yardarm E2 5b ** 18
64 Sloop E1 5b 2
65 Sandshoe Shuffle E1 5b * 5
66 The Ultimate Trundle VD  
  Rainbow Bridge area
68 Rainbow Bridge E4 6b *** 243
69 Rainbow Bridge Diluted 6a+ *** 70
70 Drop Squad
-
5a 22
71 The Gill
-
6b * 22
72 Yokel Hero
-
6b+ * 5
73 Way Down 5a * 38
74 Cutlass 8a+ *** 9
75 Verdon Dreaming 7a *** 28
76 Rainbow Scoop 6c *** 75
77 Puppy Onsight 6b * 19
78 Chrome Bum 6b+ * 18
79 The Pink Slit 6c * 6
80 The Lost Locals
-
6b+ *** 54
81 Aeronautics
-
6c *** 37
82 Show goes on
-
6a+ * 16
83 Inimitable toenails
-
6b * 5
84 Stripper Robertson
-
6b 2
85 Cyborg Crocker
-
6a 3
86 The Holes
-
6a 7
87 Strawberry Seal 7b+ ** 9
88 Barrel Traverse
-
7c *** 25
89 Look, before you leap 6b * 31
90 Disco Inferno
-
7b * 5
91 Bronski Beat
-
7b *** 2
92 Into the fire 7b+ * 1
93 The Cauldron 7a+ *** 37
94 Soft Cell 7c+ *** 8
95 Nor' Wind Blows 5c * 9
96 Eight Ball 4c ** 42
97 Salmon Fishcake 7a+ * 2
98 Cod Tympani
-
7a+ *** 54
99 Fartin' Rocker XS 6a **  
100 The Wave
-
6c *** 72
101 The Wave Continuation 6a+ * 2
102 Hear My Boat A Comin' XS 6a *  
103 Torpedo Dive 6b ** 3
104 Dolly Dagger XS 6a  
105 Mr Whippy 6a 2
106 Terminal Slab 4c * 12
107 Yum Yum 6c * 6
108 Up Yer Bum 6b+ * 7
109 A Tear Drop in the Sea 6c * 5
110 Robbie's Brown Wall 6b+ 1
111 Gluteas maximus
-
7a ** 18
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
113 ? * 7b **  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem