Climbs 107
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces E

Seventh Dread © Kafoozalem

Crag features

BEWARE PARKING FINES. A camera clocks you entering and leaving. No longer can visiting climbers sleep in the car park!

Amazing and surprisingly sound rock which creates both epics and magic days. Perhaps best known for Moonraker (HVS 5a) - is it the best HVS in the country? - Dreadnought (E3 5c), Caveman (E6 6b) and the vast sea traverses of Magical Mystery Tour and Rainbow Bridge.

It is now also a mecca for Deep Water Soloing (DWS) with the publication of the Rockfax Deep Water Guide. The Wizard of Oz is a new extended variation of Rainbow Bridge is touted as "Britain's Best DWS Traverse" and could it really be the best climb in the UK? Article here

Dave Henderson's website provides excellent miniguides to the DWS here

New route info is also found at


Approach notes

BIRD BAN MARCH 1st TO JULY 31st. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide. There is a £1,000 fine for breaking this, and a camera monitors the cliff, so don't hope. There is a variable access agreement for some parts of Rainbow Bridge but there is no access by the Great Cave. Check the details here IF YOU ARE NOT SURE PLEASE DON'T CLIMB.

DWS : The BMC now requests Deep water soloists to phone Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting on (01803) 882 704. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Park as for Berry Head Quarry.
Footpath from the seaward end of the car park leads down a steep grassy slope to the sea. Take the rocky scoop to the R, leading to the easy (but very exposed) sea traverse to a non-tidal platform. Don't fall off.

Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematical as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
The Cauldron Rope Bridge (Rainbow Bridge cliff) is back in place Sept 2016. Inspect it and form your own opinion of its safety before using it.
Kafoozalem - 26/Sep/16
August 2016 - The Hood has been cleaned and restored to its former glory. See logbook notes.
Kafoozalem - 04/Aug/16
Car Park - Watch out for the new hostile car registration recognition system. You risk a fine by simply entering the car park. It would be nice if the machines were simpler to use and didn't reject half your coins.
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/15
Top pitch of Dreadnought cleaned and Melinda cleaned, regraded and re-described - see logbook.
Kafoozalem - 29/Sep/14
Goddess of Gloom cleaned Sept 2014. I have exhumed holds and gear placements from the soil on pitch two. Get on it whilst it's in good nick. A superb adventure route a little harder than Moonraker.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/14
Terminal Zawn DWS has suffered from much misreporting. Rockfax Deep Water has several errors. Comeback Kid is Up Yer bum (sorry about that). Terminal Viscosity is really only an inferior RH finish to A Tear Drop in the Sea. Terminal Twelve has possibly never been climbed - there is an awesome line there if you fancy it. I have updated the logbooks accordingly.
Kafoozalem - 25/Aug/14
In case anyone is planning a climb in the Great Cave before the official bird ban; we went to climb Goddess of Gloom today but lots of Guillemots have started to nest already. So wise to make different plans.
Mr Tickle - 09/Feb/13 Our ascent of Moonraker.
Stanners - 31/Oct/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Magical Mystery Tour traverses 
2Magical Mystery Tour FullE1 5b ***51
3Magical Mystery Tour 16a+ ***434
4Magical Mystery Tour 2 (Blue Grotto pitch)6a+ **71
5Magical Mystery Tour 34a 11
6Magical Mystery Tour 46b **10
 Britains best DWS traverse 
8The Wizard of Oz7b ***13
 Magical Mystery Tour 1 Area 
10Yard Trimmings6b+ **4
11Gulliver's TravelsXS 6a  
12Green Grotto Traverse
6c **5
13Cave of Dark Deeds
XS 5b  
14Cod is a DJXS 6a * 
15This is my ChurchXS 6b ***1
16Let it goXS 5c * 
17In the MoodXS 5b 1
 The Great Cave 
19Moving Target
VS 4c 2
20The Long goodbye
E1 5a 1
21Lost ArrowHS 2
E1 5a  
E4 6a 1
24King CrabE1 5a *4
VS 4c 2
E5 6a **1
27False Alarms
E3 5c * 
28How to Steal a Million
E5 6a ** 
E2 5b  
30Guinness6b+ **3
31The High TraverseHVS 5a 1
32The Seventh Circle
E2 5b  
33MelindaE1 5a 1
34PikadonHVS 5a 3
35Goddess of GloomHVS 5a **40
36Lunar seaE3 5c *1
37The QuakerE3 6a *3
38The HoodE3 5c **5
E2 5b  
E3 5c **2
41DreadnoughtE3 5c ***90
42MoonrakerHVS 5a ***604
43CavemanE6 6b ***13
44Seventh DreadE1 5b ***32
45Seventh Dread - Caveman link upE2 5b **1
46The Earthsea Trilogy #3
E6 6b *** 
47Savage/Earthsea ConnectionE6 6c ***1
48SavageE6 6c *** 
49Terra CottaE6 6b *** 
50CromagnumE8 6c ***1
51The New Stone-age
E6 6b *** 
52Killa Gorilla
7b *7
53The CurseA4 *** 
54Lip trip
E5 6a ***1
55Depth ChargeE5 6a ***6
56CocoonE8 6c *** 
57Man O' warE6 6a **2
58Lost IdentityE6 6a * 
59WarspiteE5 6a * 
60The Sub Low ExtensionE4 6a * 
61Hands off Whizzy6c **1
62Warspite in brief
6b ** 
63YardarmE2 5b **18
64SloopE1 5b 2
65Sandshoe ShuffleE1 5b *5
66The Ultimate TrundleVD  
 Rainbow Bridge area 
68Rainbow BridgeE4 6b ***207
69Rainbow Bridge Diluted6a+ ***70
70Drop Squad
5a 20
71The Gill
6b *20
72Yokel Hero
6b+ *5
73Way Down5a *36
74Cutlass8a+ ***9
75Verdon Dreaming7a ***28
76Rainbow Scoop6c ***73
77Puppy Onsight6b *19
78Chrome Bum6b+ *18
79The Pink Slit6c *6
80The Lost Locals
6b+ ***49
6c ***37
82Show goes on
6a+ *16
83Inimitable toenails
6b *5
84Stripper Robertson
6b 2
85Cyborg Crocker
6a 3
86The Holes
6a 7
87Strawberry Seal7b+ **9
88Barrel Traverse
7c ***25
89Look, before you leap6b *29
90Disco Inferno
7b *5
91Bronski Beat
7b ***2
92Into the fire7b+ *1
93The Cauldron7a+ ***37
94Soft Cell7c+ ***8
95Nor' Wind Blows5c *8
96Eight Ball4c **40
97Salmon Fishcake7a+ *2
98Cod Tympani
7a+ ***54
99Fartin' RockerXS 6a ** 
100The Wave
6c ***72
101The Wave Continuation6a+ *2
102Hear My Boat A Comin'XS 6a * 
103Torpedo Dive6b **3
104Dolly DaggerXS 6a  
105Mr Whippy6a 2
106Terminal Slab4c *12
107Yum Yum6c *6
108Up Yer Bum6b+ *7
109A Tear Drop in the Sea6c *5
110Robbie's Brown Wall6b+ 1
111Gluteas maximus
7a **18
112? *7b ** 
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem