17m.

Rockfax Description
Now considered to be better than the route name it was originally given. A difficult bulge and finishing crack supply the interest. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Long Jul/2001

Ticklists

Portland, Portland 7a/+

Feedback

UserDateNotes
DanWeiss 28 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Ignore last clip below anker. It's awkward and takes unnecessary energy. Nice fall if you don't make it to the anker. definitely deserves a star!
 
Show beta
βeta: Ignore last clip below anker. It's awkward and takes unnecessary energy. Nice fall if you don't make it to the anker. definitely deserves a star!
JIMBO 12 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A route that actually lives up to its name and reputation. Poor, dusty and loose - it really is a sh*t route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A route that actually lives up to its name and reputation. Poor, dusty and loose - it really is a sh*t route.
The Jazz Butcher 18 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Perhaps not the best route on Portland, but not as bad as the name or description suggest. The rock will clean up with trafic as with all the routes on this cliff and the climbing itself is quite good. A bouldery start, followed by an easier section leads to tough, interesting and pumpy moves up the final crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Perhaps not the best route on Portland, but not as bad as the name or description suggest. The rock will clean up with trafic as with all the routes on this cliff and the climbing itself is quite good. A bouldery start, followed by an easier section leads to tough, interesting and pumpy moves up the final crack.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 9 Jun Lead RP
afterthesend 28 Apr Lead RP
Will Beaumont 28 Apr TR dnf
DanWeiss 28 Apr Lead The crux at the top is really nice, not clipping penultimate bolt makes the moves much easier. If you drop it there you'll have a nice soft fall into space.
The crux at the top is really nice, not clipping penultimate bolt makes the moves much easier. If you drop it there you'll have a nice soft fall into space.
emmafizzle 21 Apr 2nd dnf Working out the beta. Very hard!
Working out the beta. Very hard!
Dunx 20 Mar Lead
OliverM 17 Mar Lead G/U
Jeromeg 21 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
Ellis Bird 15 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
marcduhig 27 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Emanuele
with Emanuele
jackappleby 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
wlin 28 Jul, 2018 TR dog
with Abi
with Abi
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Honey badger 93 17 Jun, 2018 Lead β
eoinb 17 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Not sure if I have a workable sequence yet, but a fun session getting to the top. Spoiler alert: not a shit route, just a few holds covered in it.
Not sure if I have a workable sequence yet, but a fun session getting to the top. Spoiler alert: not a shit route, just a few holds covered in it.
Pete Scott 9 May, 2018 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 6 May, 2018 Lead β Nice climbing all the way.
with Jerome
Nice climbing all the way.
with Jerome
Richard Kendrick 22 Apr, 2018 Lead RP
Misha 22 Apr, 2018 Lead RP Decent route. Bouldery star, easy middle and a tough finish. Dropped the last hard move (which is pretty much the last move) on the first go but got it on redpoint. Might have flashed it if wasn't pretty tired but who knows.
Decent route. Bouldery star, easy middle and a tough finish. Dropped the last hard move (which is pretty much the last move) on the first go but got it on redpoint. Might have flashed it if wasn't pretty tired but who knows.
TwofoZeus 22 Apr, 2018 Lead Stiff finish, one to return to Two goes
Stiff finish, one to return to Two goes
Michael Bortoluzzi 22 Apr, 2018 Lead β With precise beta for the crux from Rich
With precise beta for the crux from Rich
littleluke 14 Apr, 2018 Lead
mr_cf 14 Apr, 2018 Lead β
Hidden ?Apr, 2018 -
TaylorMade Climbing ?Apr, 2018 Lead RP
alexspurling 17 Sep, 2017 Lead RP Managed second go but desperate at the anchor. I feel like it should have felt easier but was in a mind funk today. Easy climbing to the rooftop. Nice bouldery moves at the crux.
Managed second go but desperate at the anchor. I feel like it should have felt easier but was in a mind funk today. Easy climbing to the rooftop. Nice bouldery moves at the crux.
rockafunked 17 Sep, 2017 Lead dog Still working the crux...
Still working the crux...
Hidden 12 Jul, 2017 TR dnf
rockafunked 18 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Worked out the top bit; but no more strength to redpoint it today...
Worked out the top bit; but no more strength to redpoint it today...
WillGW 18 Jun, 2017 TR RP Bouldery start, easy middle and super bouldery finish. Couldn't link the final moves.
Bouldery start, easy middle and super bouldery finish. Couldn't link the final moves.
adamsriches 27 May, 2017 Lead dog Easy up until the tough boulder moves at the top, needed a few tries to get through.
Easy up until the tough boulder moves at the top, needed a few tries to get through.
Hidden 13 May, 2017 Lead O/S
nimajneb ?May, 2017 Lead rpt
gem_stone12 ?May, 2017 Lead dog
Toby Currie 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 TR dnf
trevor macalonan 25 Mar, 2017 TR dnf
jezb1 19 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Happy to onsight this. Stiff start, easy middle, steepens before the roof, then a good techy move to exit the roof and get the chains.
Happy to onsight this. Stiff start, easy middle, steepens before the roof, then a good techy move to exit the roof and get the chains.
anthony henry 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S wicked route
wicked route
samparsons 2 Jul, 2016 Lead G/U Tried this a couple of years ago and couldn't do it, this time easy.
Tried this a couple of years ago and couldn't do it, this time easy.
OllieWall 5 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Lots of lose and missing holds on top crux section made it quite a trick little number
Lots of lose and missing holds on top crux section made it quite a trick little number
dannygale 17 May, 2016 Lead dog
with simo, Shane
with simo, Shane
simonr 23 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
Beck Robinson 23 Apr, 2016 2nd dnf
with simonr
with simonr
Hidden 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
tsyrett 2 Apr, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go. Easy going until the roof. Big pumpy moves up to the penultimate clip. The last few moves to the lower off felt pretty desperate at first but are actually ok
2nd go. Easy going until the roof. Big pumpy moves up to the penultimate clip. The last few moves to the lower off felt pretty desperate at first but are actually ok
Hidden 2 Apr, 2016 TR
Sam4242 10 Feb, 2016 Lead dog
with Dan Richards
with Dan Richards
ihugrocks ??, 2016 -
Hidden 29 Dec, 2015 Lead β
Flavio 21 Nov, 2015 Lead G/U Bailed a year before on my second outdoor trip. First go while putting the quickdraws in today.
Bailed a year before on my second outdoor trip. First go while putting the quickdraws in today.
Angus Taylor 24 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
chrismadar 24 Oct, 2015 Lead dog Absolutely solid route; couldn't get through the moves. Fair play for Angus for getting it clean in the end.
Absolutely solid route; couldn't get through the moves. Fair play for Angus for getting it clean in the end.
Hidden 8 Oct, 2015 TR dnf
websterm508 4 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
with Tim H
with Tim H
leglesslizard 28 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Jack93 6 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf
with JoshT
with JoshT
spidermonkey09 6 Jun, 2015 Lead RP Not that shit! Bit loose in the middle and hard moves at the top but not bad climbing at all. Bit sharp though.
Not that shit! Bit loose in the middle and hard moves at the top but not bad climbing at all. Bit sharp though.
Dibdawg 4 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
with Ade7
with Ade7
Kerm ?Mar, 2015 2nd
Kerm ?Mar, 2015 Lead
Hidden 24 Feb, 2015 Lead dnf
pymn nice but dim ?Nov, 2014 Lead RP
nacnud 23 Aug, 2014 Lead
ThomasB ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
NewHam ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
pymn nice but dim 26 Jun, 2014 Lead dog missed the crimp between the cracks on the last bolt coming back for it clean this week
missed the crimp between the cracks on the last bolt coming back for it clean this week
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 3 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 24 May, 2014 Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S Not deserving of its name, great crux sequence at the top
with Tor
Not deserving of its name, great crux sequence at the top
with Tor
Rosea Day ?Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Jeromeg
with Jeromeg
Joshpeel4 9 Oct, 2013 TR dnf hard crimp section 2/3s way up, kept falling here. literally covered in seagul shit.
hard crimp section 2/3s way up, kept falling here. literally covered in seagul shit.
LucasHarazin 6 Oct, 2013 Lead RP
philhaigh 12 May, 2013 2nd dog
with Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina, Barry Kerslake, Mike Hawkins, nataliehaigh
with Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina, Barry Kerslake, Mike Hawkins, nataliehaigh
joshchalke 28 Apr, 2013 TR dnf
with bradfry
with bradfry
LukeyG 28 Apr, 2013 Lead 1st rp
1st rp
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt
Billg ??, 2013 Lead RP
will ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 18 Nov, 2012 Lead RP Actually quite good.
with Mike Hawkins
Actually quite good.
with Mike Hawkins
dan gibson 17 Oct, 2012 Lead RP
with julie carroll, helen gibson
with julie carroll, helen gibson
MarkRyder 14 Oct, 2012 TR RP
with lee91
with lee91
Brian H 14 Oct, 2012 Lead β Managed to flash it but took some photos of Sue doing it a few weeks earlier so can't claim the onsight.
Managed to flash it but took some photos of Sue doing it a few weeks earlier so can't claim the onsight.
Hidden 1 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 23 Jun, 2012 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 4 Jun, 2012 Lead RP almost sad to finally get it. almost.
with daniel, gibsond, Paul
almost sad to finally get it. almost.
with daniel, gibsond, Paul
theotherpetehill 3 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf Couldn't get through roof. Start was fun.
with Tom Codrington
Couldn't get through roof. Start was fun.
with Tom Codrington
J5Kay 3 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 3 Jun, 2012 Lead dog 3? attempts. got footwork memorised 3rd go.
3? attempts. got footwork memorised 3rd go.
Jonathan Emett 2 Jun, 2012 Lead dog 3 gos. greasy->wet. pretty ok if you ignore the loose rock!
with Paul
3 gos. greasy->wet. pretty ok if you ignore the loose rock!
with Paul
La Mont 26 May, 2012 -
with Matt Perks
with Matt Perks
bencoope 4 Feb, 2012 -
Jonathan Emett 24 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf 'orrible. sharp and dusty. got to the roof and then realised the huge undercut sounded very hollow - cue rapid descent...
'orrible. sharp and dusty. got to the roof and then realised the huge undercut sounded very hollow - cue rapid descent...
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 2nd
Kevster 2 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27 Mar, 2011 Lead RP Third go. Not as bad as the description and name suggests fun climbing!
with Rob
Third go. Not as bad as the description and name suggests fun climbing!
with Rob
David Staples ??, 2011 TR dog
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 15 Nov, 2009 Lead RP Not too bad! Only a touch harder than Julie Ocean, and of the same quality, just more dust. More traffic and it would clean up to respectable quality.
with Ivan
Not too bad! Only a touch harder than Julie Ocean, and of the same quality, just more dust. More traffic and it would clean up to respectable quality.
with Ivan
Hidden 8 Sep, 2009 Lead dog
Marti999 22 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S its not that bad
its not that bad
Aston mountaineers ?Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 10 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
dobby 200 16 Apr, 2007 TR dog
Hidden 11 Nov, 2006 Lead RP
keefe 16 Sep, 2006 Lead
with Tansy
with Tansy
Hidden 16 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ??, 1995 -
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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set