140m, 3 pitches. The groove up the streaked black wall.
1. 40m 5b. Starting from a recess climb the brown rib and the shallow groove to the main groove, over a bulge, to the right slanting groove and a belay.
2 50m 4c. The rib on the right.
3 50m. Easy slabs to the big thread belay of Dragon.

Andy Nisbet and Douggie Dinwoodie 22/May/1988

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Mackinclimb 26 Jun AltLd
Sarahcrowsley 26 Jun AltLd Lead p2
Lead p2
Annaclaire16 14 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Climbed to access Dragon. Scrappy start leads to good climbing above. Crux short and steep on good holds although one less now as it broke off on second...
Climbed to access Dragon. Scrappy start leads to good climbing above. Crux short and steep on good holds although one less now as it broke off on second...
Finlandia 14 May, 2018 Lead O/S If you're new to Gneiss like me then my advice is gear is not always obvious and not always where you want it so keep a look out and don't carry on past even when you think you don't need it! P1 be sure to go slightly right up the pockety groove continuation after the overhang rather than left. Second fell when foothold popped in overhang then climbed (grade no change). Didn't see "nest" of second belay but were right on route. If in doubt just go straight up, slightly right steep start of pitch 3. Come out exactly at thread belay at foot of Dragon slab.
If you're new to Gneiss like me then my advice is gear is not always obvious and not always where you want it so keep a look out and don't carry on past even when you think you don't need it! P1 be sure to go slightly right up the pockety groove continuation after the overhang rather than left. Second fell when foothold popped in overhang then climbed (grade no change). Didn't see "nest" of second belay but were right on route. If in doubt just go straight up, slightly right steep start of pitch 3. Come out exactly at thread belay at foot of Dragon slab.
Ali D 11 May, 2017 AltLd O/S I lead p2
with Chucky
I lead p2
with Chucky
whistler 20 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Intimidating first pitch. Quality 2nd pitch!
with Adrien
Intimidating first pitch. Quality 2nd pitch!
with Adrien
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