Rockfax Description
Direct up the arete, keeping out of the corner all the way to the ledge. At the top, head left to join The Sod. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Vaicaitis 19.7.95 19/Jul/1995

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Portland.

brian watson 16/Dec/17 Lead RP

I used crimps on R hand wall of the corner where 2nd bolt is, R hand on arete. Seemed about 7a+ quite bouldery.

with Mike Hawkins
samparsons 08/Dec/17 Lead RP

Tried it years ago and have belayed Emmie on it for a couple of days. I would count this as a retro flash.

emmafizzle 08/Dec/17 Lead dnf

Made some headway on the crux... too cold to try properly today.

brian watson 02/Dec/17 Lead dog

Managed the crux moves eventually but then to dark and tired to get the upper moves (or just shit :-D)

with Pymm, Mike Hawkins
emmafizzle 28/Nov/17 Lead dog

Waaaahhhh it’s so cruxy. Never gonna happen!

simonpearson 20/Nov/17 Lead RP
with afrosam
emmafizzle 19/Nov/17 Lead dog


afrosam 18/Nov/17 Lead RP
katiep 22/Oct/17 TR dog

Did all the moves on top rope but, but unable to get past the second bolt on lead

with Sophie, Phil, Fiona Adie, Caroline H, Jacob Lloyd
cdpuk 30/Jul/17 Lead dog
Andrew Norman 15/Jul/17 Lead dnf
with Pete Lane, Philippa Drage, Charlie Noire, Pete malpuss, Maynard, Ian Clarke, Rich Clarke, Emily Spence
Ed.Laver 24/Jun/17 Lead RP

Glad that's over!

Binigo 23/Jun/17 Lead dog

4 tries. Fell off with my hands on top of the arete, half a move from the jugs, gutted.

dohart 19/Jun/17 TR dnf

Way too hot - got pretty much no where.

with Marcus oleary
dohart 12/Jun/17 TR dog

Definitely doable. Not many moves.

with Marcus oleary
Andre Clarke 21/May/17 2nd dnf
with Tommy Harris
Hidden 19/May/17 Lead rpt
afterthesend ??/2017 Lead RP
chrismadar 30/Oct/16 Lead RP

Dogged up it the first go to try all the moves, took me a little while to work out the moves but it went first ground up accent. Really nice route with a nice sequence!

Matt Cooke 28/Aug/16 Lead rpt
climber34neil 23/Jul/16 -

With mike , rests

Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead dnf
Martin Bagshaw 10/Jul/16 TR dog
Martin Bagshaw 10/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Got past crux 1st try on lead, but then slipped off. 2 tries.

Hidden 10/Jul/16 Lead rpt
WSHart 09/Jul/16 Lead dog
td72 26/Jun/16 Lead RP

Good arete climbing with a hidden crimp/sidepull.

with Katie
Hidden 11/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Spillers 27/May/16 Lead
with Zoe Silsbury
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead dnf
Sam4242 08/May/16 Lead RP
bede.west 30/Apr/16 Lead RP

3rd session but about 6 months since my last session on it 2nd go of the day, good few more than that in total, great route!

W d c ??/2016 Lead RP


with BILL G
dinodinosaur 13/Dec/15 Lead dog
jacobjlloyd 12/Dec/15 Lead rpt
BenL 12/Dec/15 Lead RP
with Alex Banks, Jake, Angus Webb
Albachoss 12/Dec/15 Lead RP

Near flash!

with Jake
tommccluskey 08/Dec/15 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 08/Dec/15 Lead rpt
Jack Shewring 03/Oct/15 Lead RP
Neil_M_L 26/Sep/15 Lead RP
Ed Babs 19/Sep/15 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
James 'pyjamas' 19/Jun/15 Lead RP

Enjoyed doing this with a group of us, although I was last one to figure out the crux moves. An enjoyable day.

GeneralFifi 19/Jun/15 Lead RP

John and James were working this so I came over to have a rest from projecting Dumbfounded. Figured out a new beta on my first go which then all of us used to send it. Got it on my second redpoint. Felt quite soft, only about 3 hard moves. Quite happy with this though!

with James Morgan, Freddie Erskine, John Beesley
John_Beesley 19/Jun/15 Lead RP

Really pumpy route, considering how short it is. Definitely deserves 7a+ for the crux moves, though the rest is undoubtedly pretty easy. Fun day projecting this with a good group of us! Great that we all sent it!

with Freddie Erskine, GeneralFifi, James 'pyjamas'
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead dog
kirtus86 13/Jun/15 Lead β
leglesslizard 06/Jun/15 Lead RP
Alex Handley 23/May/15 Lead RP

Polished but good

with Adam Shelton
Sam4242 10/May/15 Lead dog
Bargate_Champ 05/May/15 Lead RP
WSHart 05/Apr/15 TR dog
najki_2000 05/Apr/15 TR

Had a go. 3 massive rockovers. Couldn't quite get the good side pull

with Chris Rose
FreddieSmith 05/Apr/15 Lead RP
EdGeall 05/Apr/15 2nd
Spillers 21/Feb/15 Lead dnf

Dropped crux pop to side pull from intermediate edge on o/s attempt. Finished fine. Will try on next visit.

with Zoe Silsbury
Alex N-R 11/Jan/15 Lead RP
with Dan
jacobjlloyd ??/2015 Lead rpt
freddy25 ??/2015 -
nimajneb ??/2015 Lead β
Hidden 30/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Graham Westbrook 21/Nov/14 Lead RP

1st RP

jacobjlloyd 09/Nov/14 Lead dog

Will go next time. Hard, then once the beta was found it was dark and a bit damp.

with Ryu, Roger Kirke
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead RP
Marcus 04/Oct/14 Lead RP

Good fun.

kermit_uk 24/Aug/14 Lead RP
nuggetcp ?/Aug/14 Lead dog
Kap 04/Jul/14 Lead RP

Extended 3rd bolt with 120cm sling as quite spaced at crux.

wave1art 25/May/14 2nd RP

Clean with Rope pre-clipped to third bolt on third attempt. Completely different beta to Keith. Reachy. Would be nice to go back and climb on lead, clean.

Caspian Johnson 03/May/14 Lead RP

surprisingly dynamic moves. Fun

with Tor
robajob 03/May/14 Lead RP
with Kt
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead RP
Henry.Todman 11/Apr/14 Lead RP

Did it clean on top rope then went on lead after a few redpoint attempts

Coops_13 08/Mar/14 Lead RP
yarrow 08/Mar/14 TR dog
with Becky P
maybe_si 22/Feb/14 Lead RP
dobby 200 08/Dec/13 Lead RP

Finally got this on my third try of the day. I was so caught up in the crux moves I didn't realize I hadn't clipped the 2nd bolt till after I had done them!

with Giles
Hidden 01/Dec/13 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead dog
DorsetGareth 10/Nov/13 Lead dnf
dobby 200 05/Oct/13 Lead dog

Only one fall, next time!

with Lucy
Luis SD 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 27/Aug/13 Lead RP
PeterDawson 26/Aug/13 Lead β
dobby 200 14/Aug/13 TR dog

Finally linked all the moves on this, a bit more work and ill be ready for the lead

philhaigh 28/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Tammy Pay, Natalie Haigh
Jonathan Emett 15/Jun/13 Lead rpt

finally done it after 5 years of trying... fantastic heelhook sequence at the crux makes it so much easier, and better!

Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead dog
DJ Nelson 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jun/13 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 25/May/13 Lead dog

3 gos

with dan
lewiz 11/May/13 Lead RP
Daniel Wicks 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
dobby 200 31/Mar/13 TR dog
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead RP
Sami Mandeel 12/Sep/12 Lead RP
with Shamina
Sami Mandeel 10/Sep/12 Lead dog
el_monty 01/Sep/12 Lead RP

10 attempts in a day! got it in the end!

with rob gates, Si
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28/Aug/12 TR
3 Names 23/Aug/12 Lead RP

2nd redpoint

with Richy Churcher
3 Names 22/Aug/12 Lead dog

Hand popped off penultimate hold on the red point Doh!

with Richy Churcher
3 Names 20/Aug/12 TR

too hot!!!

with Richy Churcher
Linc ?/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead RP
richardr 16/Jun/12 Lead RP

Bad(comedy)style. Forgot sequence, missed hold on crux and then a knot in the rope on the 3rd clip with decking potential. Somehow scraped up!

Hidden 03/Jun/12 TR dog
Hidden 02/Jun/12 TR rpt
philhaigh 15/May/12 Lead dnf
El3ctroFuzz 12/May/12 Lead rpt
with Alex Chapman
kermit_uk 28/Mar/12 TR RP
with Ian
matt perks ??/2012 -
Paul_southgate68 26/Nov/11 2nd β
with Stefan
Jonathan Emett 06/Nov/11 Lead dog

improved starting sequence and linked up to the rail but then fell off, for no discernible reason.

with rupe
Toby Dunn 05/Nov/11 Lead RP
with Jon Emmet
Jonathan Emett 05/Nov/11 Lead dog

got the moves (and the clips!). tomorrow.

with toby
dan gibson 30/Oct/11 Lead RP
with michael porter
mikeshewring 25/Sep/11 TR dog
shoulders 25/Sep/11 Lead dog
Gazleah 08/Sep/11 Lead dnf


with joey gilham
Ed morris 02/Sep/11 Lead RP

Secound clip has caused a major accident. Third is runout. Climbed with extended runners. Poor bolting detracts from an otherwise fun route.

Haydn Jones 31/Aug/11 Lead RP

got confused on the onsight, managed it second attempt. needs to be pre cliped/extended, if you fall going to the second clip its a ground fall

Hidden 17/Aug/11 TR rpt
UnkArl 16/Aug/11 TR dnf

First time on a 7 and first time of actually working a route, made some decent progress and I think it will go with more work and a proper effort. Second clip is a bit spicy.

with Stefano
Jonathan Emett 01/Aug/11 TR dog

worked the moves

with daniel
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jun/11 TR rpt
rxmac 04/Jun/11 Lead RP

Note to self, don't climb in the baking midday sun again

shim ?/Jun/11 TR dnf

Hard boulder start didnt get far

Hidden 27/May/11 Lead RP
Kevster 21/May/11 Lead

Foot hold missing?

Simon Cahill 16/May/11 TR
Jonathan Emett 16/May/11 TR dnf

another dismal failure. mind you picked up some beta from other peoples logs below!

with simon c
JKinsella 07/May/11 Lead RP
ian d f 07/May/11 Lead RP
with Joe Kinsella
Pete Sanger 27/Apr/11 Lead dog
31770 16/Apr/11 Lead RP

Top rope practiced for one attempt then first two bolts "clip sticked" on the lead attempt because I'm a woose. All the moves went clean on second try.

Quarryboy 27/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Pretty much sussed apart from the crux which I could almost do. I'm sure if I come back in 5 years I'll be able to cruse the thing.

with UCR youth squad
J.Wells 12/Mar/11 Lead RP
MarkRyder 20/Feb/11 Lead RP
with Ivan M
Jonathan Emett 09/Jan/11 TR dnf
j miller ??/2011 Lead
Linc ??/2011 Lead dog
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
brices 11/Dec/10 Lead RP

2nd go.

Emma-Louise Anderson 18/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Required a lot more body tension, but has potential

with Tom, Mel Brown, Dave Parsons, Chris Bailey
Jonathan Emett 28/Aug/10 TR dnf
with stuart
benwhit 09/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead
robandian ?/Apr/10 Lead dog
danoflynn 13/Mar/10 Lead RP
with Jack Lawson and Jen Killeen
mynameisjen 13/Mar/10 Lead RP

4th RP,; sneaky drop left-knee to gain intermediate crimp, change foot, then go again to good side-pull crimp. right hand up to two finger pocket. high right foot, left foot high up on that intermediate crimp rail, and pop to juggy rail. match, right hand up to bottom of diagonal finger jug, high left foot (really high on that rail), flag right foot under, balance and go over with left hand to top.

with Jack Lawson
will9911 ?/Mar/10 Lead RP
Ben Harper 27/Feb/10 Lead rpt
with Baby A
andy jennings 27/Feb/10 Lead RP
with ben
Ciro 14/Feb/10 Lead RP
dobby 200 07/Feb/10 TR dog
El3ctroFuzz 30/Jan/10 Lead RP

Clean 3rd time ground-up.

with Elaine Budden
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24/Jan/10 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 09/Jan/10 TR rpt
Hidden 02/Jan/10 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2010 -
nadeem 09/Sep/09 Lead RP
with Tom Foote
Hidden 09/Sep/09 -
thomasadixon 07/Sep/09 Lead RP

Good moves, well worth doing.

with Phil, Alan
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead RP
AndyM-LVB 16/Aug/09 TR

Project... Great route. Note: The topo in the 2004 Rockfax is wrong, the line is on the arete, not the face with the black streaks.

Martin Cleaver 16/Aug/09 Lead

4th attempt, worked on lead.

JonBrown 16/Aug/09 TR dog
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead RP
derico 24/Jun/09 Lead β

Two quite hard boulder problems linked together with no real rest and great fun!

with Oli
BicepAndrews 22/Jun/09 Lead dog
keithpeck 22/Jun/09 Lead dog
Daniel Wicks 05/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Linus and Kine
Mike_Hayes 02/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Davina Jackson
JPGR ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Seb1uk 30/May/09 Lead dog

found the third bolt quite scary to clip but was a good, pumpy, technical route.

with Scott Soithongsuk
clgladiator 09/May/09 TR dog
with Ducky
felixthelion 04/May/09 Lead RP

2nd try.

with Lee
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/May/09 TR dog
Leeds 23/Apr/09 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Apr/09 TR dog
Hidden 07/Apr/09 Lead RP
keithpeck 05/Apr/09 TR dog

nice route, worked all the moves.. lead next time.

Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead dog
matt green(uni) ?/Mar/09 Lead RP

2nd try

BenNorman ?/Mar/09 Lead RP

3rd try:D

with kev norman
Ben Tyrrell 19/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Billg 15/Feb/09 Lead O/S
SeanyC ?/Feb/09 Lead dog
with billg
TiffTiff 24/Jan/09 Lead RP
with Tom
TiffTiff 11/Jan/09 Lead dog
with Felix
feilx 11/Jan/09 Lead rpt

by head torch, wicked

with Tiff
dmoir 11/Jan/09 Lead RP
with Matheus Beine
La benya ??/2009 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2009 -
feilx 21/Dec/08 Lead RP
with Heather
james.f.williamson 16/Nov/08 TR dog

Nice! Couldn't quite TR clean, had to rest on the move from the nice long ledge and sidepull below the bolt to the big jug on top of the ledge where it meets the 5 to the left.

with Dave Love
vertigo 15/Nov/08 Lead RP

First 7a+! Chuffed!

Ben Harper 15/Nov/08 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Nov/08 TR dog
andy jennings 01/Nov/08 TR dog
FrostyWebb 30/Sep/08 Lead dog

ok i need to work hard to achieve this level of climbing however i was happy i could finish this route

with Connie
nblackbeard 28/Sep/08 TR

Fell once after the crux :-(. Reckon clean lead will go next time. A very cool route :-).

with Tom Blight
Jonathan Emett 27/Sep/08 TR dog
with rich
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
llevick 05/Sep/08 Lead RP
thomb ?/Sep/08 Solo
with Pete
w.pettet-smith 25/Aug/08 Lead RP

lead cleanish.very pumped by top move. phew.

with oli tilbury
clairejane 25/Aug/08 TR dnf

didnt finish, excuse; they all wanted to bugger off home will be back for more

with will
llevick 05/Aug/08 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Aug/08 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 04/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Oli
Matt Bennett 03/Aug/08 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 03/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Matt, Geoff
tedj234 17/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Nicolas Rabb
Mark Stevenson 15/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Tom Odling
Anthony Allsopp 08/Jun/08 Lead RP
Sandy Holford 08/Jun/08 TR dog
with Pete Tecks
w.pettet-smith ?/Jun/08 TR

worked it out on the top rope without any probs, failed miserably on the lead. pumped or something. next time.

lukea ?/May/08 Lead rpt
with dan
georgel 23/Mar/08 Lead RP

bouldery. Easier for the tall

with gareth
Morgan Woods 22/Mar/08 Lead RP

Tough little number which feels easy enough once you work it out.....3 good hard moves.

with David S
Hidden 18/Mar/08 Lead RP
viking ?/Mar/08 Lead RP
with gareth
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead RP
Kevster ??/2008 Lead
Jonathan Emett 24/Dec/07 TR dnf
with Peter Weston
hamish2016 10/Nov/07 TR RP
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead
timo.t 30/Sep/07 Lead dog

very nice climb, quite technical, managed all the moves but failed lead attempt..cursed quite a lot, sorry about that. No excuses.

with Ian, julius
Somerset swede basher 18/Sep/07 Lead RP
with Sarah Stirling
phsharpy 09/Sep/07 Lead RP
with Steve Corbett
Jus ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
mikegilly ?/Aug/07 -
with Roberts
Martin Krasnansky 31/Jul/07 Lead β

7a max!

Castleclimber 23/Jun/07 Lead RP
with Tim Hussain
Hidden 11/Jun/07 2nd dog
BobbyH ?/May/07 Lead dog
BennyBoy ?/May/07 Lead RP

Some people say that this is easy 7a+ but I felt there were two crux moves - one left throw to a thin side pull and the second is reaching very high and right to a small bulge type chicken head at the top. I really enjoyed this route and felt it worthy of the grade.

with Dylan Burgess
Mark Stevenson 26/Apr/07 TR RP
petebale2000 22/Apr/07 Lead RP
guyblackwood 06/Apr/07 Lead RP

Dead chuffed- had a play on this last year and found it nails- this year, a couple of goes and I lead it

with Ricardo
hippo99 ?/Apr/07 Lead RP

easy for 7a+

onlytovey ?/Apr/07 Lead RP
jchenoweth 01/Feb/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Jan/07 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
Lloyders ??/2007 Lead RP
Tom Heslam ??/2007 Lead RP
with Ed Heslam
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 16/Dec/06 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Nov/06 Lead dnf
trevor macalonan 08/Oct/06 TR dnf
with Matt P
Oddjob 16/Sep/06 TR dog
Hidden 20/Aug/06 Lead β
guyblackwood 06/Aug/06 TR dog
with David, Ricardo, Olga
catt 22/Jul/06 Lead RP

first 7a+ :-). really nice moves, with lots of different sequences, certainly deserves a couple of stars.

with Dan
endless winter 15/Jul/06 TR
with Gordon
Hidden 15/Jul/06 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Jul/06 Lead dog
Rokmunky 13/May/06 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead RP
bigie bob 12/Apr/06 Lead RP
Paz 05/Mar/06 Lead RP

Missed the hold on the flash but got it 1st RP

with FM
feeko ??/2006 -
A Longleat Boulderer ??/2006 Lead RP
with John Hemps
sam_cox ??/2006 Lead

my first 7.

steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ?/Dec/05 Lead RP
Pythonist 06/Feb/05 TR dog
dannyboy83 ??/2005 Lead RP
with Ben Darvill
Paul_southgate68 ??/2003 TR dog

haha,great route,super tough!!***

with pj
lx ?/May/01 Lead
with neil
Hidden ??/2000 TR dog
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead RP

Took a few goes but it's not 7a+.

with John Pullin
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 28/Mar/99 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Aug/95 Lead RP
kristian ??/1995 Lead RP
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Votes cast 105
Votes cast 87
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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