Rockfax Description
Fine, sustained climbing up an open groove. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 26.11.95 26/Nov/1995

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a, Portland.

Vespa63 13/Sep Lead RP
with Rich
tommccluskey 10/Sep Lead O/S
with Jess
The Screaming Finn 02/Sep TR dog

Definitely one to come back to now that Ive figured out the beta.

with CarlWH
Carl 02/Sep Lead RP

First 7a! Went first RP, nearly got the flash but went the wrong way at the top (got too tempted by a ridiculously high right foot).

katiep 01/Sep Lead dog

could not get past the crux without assistance from the rope, felt reachy. The rest of the route was sustained but do-able

Chops 11/Aug Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug -
Lisa P 15/Jul 2nd dog

Off twice, once at the bottom of the grove and once at the top of the crack. Could work out the crux, mostly due to my short reach. The rest was fine.

with james n
james n 15/Jul Lead RP
with Lisa P
dohart 12/Jun TR dog

Absolutely desperate. A long way off doing this! Although I could do the crux so maybe just need to work out sequence for top.

with Marcus oleary
jakecollins 11/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 21/May Lead RP
samparsons 21/May Lead RP
Stroppy 20/May Lead RP

Ooof, there's a wild move! Would be nice to see someone with some technique climb this. 2nd RP.

with Cathy
chris_woodsy 21/Feb Lead β
with Widdaz
Widda 21/Feb 2nd dog

Seems feasible except I'm not sure if I can actually do the crux - might have to come back to this one at a later date.

Alex Norman 04/Feb Lead β

Had tried years ago- amnesia flash. Good moves.

with Charlie
pymn nice but dim ??/2017 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Dandan82 05/Nov/16 Lead RP

Mega cruxy

Carnie Lisa 05/Nov/16 2nd dog

with Dan Verge
ricci.andrea86 ?/Nov/16 Lead
crimpaway 24/Sep/16 Lead dog
with Kate Serby
UppityClimber 26/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Claire Drury
paultaylor 11/Jul/16 Lead RP
BenNorman 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Well good, lovely comfy crimps and a great headwall! Found my love for the cuttings!

td72 26/Jun/16 Lead G/U

Nearly got the onsight just missed a hold at the top. got it second go.

with Katie
afterthesend 15/May/16 Lead RP

Got on first RP attempt

TomJ 14/May/16 Lead RP

Tough crux - proper redpoint! Fun route

with afrosam
Matthew Davies 07/May/16 Lead rpt

Slightly damp from rain previous night. made for sketchy crux move

Ian Bell 01/May/16 Lead dog
with Tania T
Ian Bell 01/May/16 TR dog

All fine bar 1 brutal move near 4th bolt. Was a bit worried I'd hit the ledge from there. Don't think I'll be back but a good route.

with Tania T
brian watson 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
AlexD 27/Apr/16 Lead dnf
Matthew Davies 17/Apr/16 Lead β

Great balance problem, fantastic final move to the last bolt.

julesmckim 04/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Great route and so pleased to get this on sight. A pop for the hold to enter the groove, followed by easier climbing to the crack. This didn't allow for a rest or the perfect finger jams I was hoping for. Had to dig deep to top out!

with Rob Smart
Kris suriyo 21/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with Rob
Sam4242 15/Feb/16 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Feb/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Feb/16 Lead β
Graham Westbrook 03/Feb/16 Lead RP

1st RP

ThomasB 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S
i_a_coops ??/2016 Lead O/S
with conor
Hidden 26/Dec/15 Lead rpt
duncan 19/Dec/15 Lead dog
with Matthew Downes
chris_woodsy 05/Dec/15 Lead RP
with BenL
jacobjlloyd 05/Dec/15 Lead O/S
tobydunford 22/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Oli
Albachoss 08/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Dougie
Tom Seccombe 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 08/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Hidden 07/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Jul/15 Lead RP
spidermonkey09 04/Jun/15 Lead RP

Nearly onsighted but fell off top move. One top rope, then first RP. Great climbing, hard throw to escape the groove then technical crack to finish.

afrosam 24/May/15 Lead O/S
leglesslizard 10/May/15 Lead RP
brian watson 09/May/15 2nd
Sophie Nunn 09/May/15 Lead dog
with Brian
DorsetGareth 02/May/15 Lead RP
brian watson 24/Apr/15 Lead dog
Neil_M_L 11/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead
ArrMcC 28/Mar/15 Lead dog
with Chloe
Chloe 28/Mar/15 TR dog

Worked this route. It has some tricky moves but definitely doable.

with Arran
Hidden 25/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/15 Lead dog
Sam4242 09/Jan/15 Lead dog
nimajneb ??/2015 Lead RP
Pete Scott 21/Dec/14 Lead RP
with Ben Buckland
nath_casper 19/Oct/14 Lead dog
lawsy_boy1 27/Sep/14 Lead RP
5210Hill 27/Sep/14 Lead RP
RFWilkie 21/Sep/14 Lead RP

On the 3rd attempt

Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

Stumped at 4th bolt. Felt hard.

with Jonny
FL1PD4N 23/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Couldn't manage the crux clean, got to the top of the crack and took a WHIPPER!

eel 17/Aug/14 Lead dog

Had to Dog the reach...Need to figure out a way of optimising the holds to reach the slanting hold up and right.

with Andy J
bigdrew 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
Nick Clement 10/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
Thinker01 02/Aug/14 Lead RP

Took a couple of goes but not hard once you know where all the moves are.

nacnud 12/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/May/14 Lead dog
Barry Kerslake 11/May/14 Lead RP
with Ro
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead RP
Nick Russell 29/Mar/14 Lead RP

1st RP, disappointed to fall off the last move on the flash attempt. Some neat climbing, with a really nice sequence off the big ledge.

paddygoodwinlondon 23/Mar/14 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 16/Mar/14 Lead RP

1st go today, worked it prev weekend

Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead RP
robbo99 16/Mar/14 TR dog

7a warm up! Found the move up to the diagonal hold above 4th bolt tricky.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead RP
DJ Nelson 15/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go

with Micaela Langellotti
Coops_13 09/Mar/14 Lead dog

Got all the moves, too tired to link...

Marcus 09/Mar/14 Lead RP

First climb for about 6 months because of bad hip. Used finger power off the pocket as can't bridge.

Rupey 08/Mar/14 Lead dog
Tommyads ??/2014 -

Brilliant. Maybe i do like the cuttings?

Luxulyan 08/Dec/13 Lead RP
with Tom Murrell
BenL 06/Dec/13 Lead RP
with James Doc
dprctr 03/Nov/13 Lead RP

Woo hoo! Finally didnt fuck it up.

with Patrick
dprctr 02/Nov/13 Lead dog

Perfect conditions, but had to relearn alot of the route.

with Patrick
dprctr 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

x3 attempts. Great route, Must come back for it.

with Robbie Jenkins
Luke Dawson 27/Aug/13 Lead β
nigel pearson 07/Jul/13 Lead dog

led clean from the ledge after several attempts

with Robin
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 24/Jun/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 24/Jun/13 2nd rpt

Retrieving draws

with Shamina Kapadia
richsmithinbristol 23/Jun/13 Lead RP

Finally climbed after several failure sessions during injury last year. Got it first go. Not too bad really with the correct sequence.

philhaigh 15/Jun/13 2nd RP
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 03/Jun/13 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 26/May/13 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 18/May/13 Lead dog

felt sketchy as hell. pulled off part of a hold at one point - nothing important though

lewiz 04/May/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Easy 7a

Daniel Wicks 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
budchawla 20/Apr/13 -

I didn't climb this but putting this here for info: a fairly significant hold (a little pyramid just right of the 5th clip) which is useful to gain a much-needed rest before attempting the crux partially broke off while one of our group was climbing there on 20 April. Unsure exactly what effect this will have on the route / grade.

Rockwarrior ?/Mar/13 Lead β
with JRennie
Rockwarrior ?/Mar/13 Lead β
with JRennie
Kopinski ?/Feb/13 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 04/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Anthony
Nick205228 ??/2013 Lead O/S
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Dec/12 Lead RP
el_monty 13/Nov/12 Lead RP
with Sami
MarkRyder 11/Nov/12 Lead RP
with Andy
Sami Mandeel 08/Nov/12 Lead RP

2nd go.

JCAshman 02/Nov/12 Lead RP

Drop Knee Crux

Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead β
Bristoldave 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Mike, nick, LukeW, douglas
London Luke ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
robajob 08/Sep/12 Lead RP
quiffhanger 05/Aug/12 Lead β

Fun & technical. Not sustained if you use your feet.

with Joe
JKinsella 05/Aug/12 Lead RP

Good fun, nice climbing, soft. 2nd go.

dale1968 21/Jul/12 TR dog
with Tom
rustaldo 20/Jul/12 Lead RP

first RP. blew the onsight at the last move, crack is sadly short lived, top out is strewn with gash holds, easy to fluff it at the top

Hidden 21/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jun/12 Lead RP
EllaRus ?/Jun/12 Lead RP
with john
brices 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tom H
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead dog
Gareth Bowen 31/Mar/12 Lead dog

All moves done.

with Nathan Goddard
john rensten 25/Mar/12 Lead RP

was so happy to tick this

with Neal Jobling, Bryan
3 Names 16/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead RP
andrew hammond 26/Feb/12 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 25/Feb/12 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jan/12 Lead RP
Kevster 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
jgustafsson 03/Dec/11 Lead RP

Hard to onsight -- First I didn't even spot the right leaning ramp that you go for on the crux. Did 2nd go, but it felt like a fairly hard lock-off (though I'm not very tall)

with Pino
catt 29/Oct/11 Lead RP

Nice climb, felt fairly reasonable for 7a.

with Hazel
philhaigh 20/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Lora Townsend, Matt Ridgway
philhaigh 15/Oct/11 TR dog
with Lora Townsend, Matt Ridgway, Natalie Haigh
Jonathan Emett 08/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with toby
Toby Dunn 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S

not as nice as the feature it climbs.

with Jon Emmet
Haydn Jones 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

Bah! fell off last move going for the on-sight, got it second go though!

Ed morris 02/Sep/11 Lead RP
James Nott 30/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead RP
tom.ireson 23/Jul/11 Lead β
Daniel Wicks 13/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/11 Lead β
Hidden 29/May/11 TR RP
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead RP
chris sm 22/May/11 Lead dog

Tough crux getting into the groove. Didn't try the RP.

with Laurel Bowler
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 22/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/11 Lead RP
dmaldonado 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Sam Wilson
adrian perera 13/Mar/11 2nd
davidliu 13/Mar/11 Lead β
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead RP
Tom Heslam ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 22/Jan/11 Lead dnf
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP
jacobjacob 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S

One huge lock makes this 7a+. Pleasantly awkward above.

with Laura Perry
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead β
givemetea 09/Apr/10 Lead dog

crux move too reachy - not sure how to get around this -- hmmmm

with Hazel
Billg 04/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Susanne Richards
JPGR 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan O'Sullivan
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
Si dH 26/Mar/10 Lead dog

Quite a long way from being able to link it but nice moves. Maybe one to work if I go back again.

with Neil and Chris
Hidden 26/Mar/10 TR dnf
3 Names ?/Mar/10 TR O/S
pezzerrr 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S
georgel 06/Feb/10 Lead RP
with will
Wilbur 06/Feb/10 Lead RP

2 stars even though it doesn't really get going till the ledge. Hard 4th clip and crux just above it, especially for shorties (5'8). The final hard bit is also not straight forward. Probably agree with hard 7a but can't be that hard if i got it 1st redpoint (certainly not as hard as Haute Cuisine)...

with George
w.pettet-smith 23/Jan/10 Lead RP

love the notes a few below! quite an absorbing climb, got it first time after failing the onsight. didn't see the vital hold up and left of the crux bolt. nice sequence at the top.

with steve
Ed Babs 17/Jan/10 Lead RP
with Harry
La benya 09/Jan/10 Lead rpt
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 09/Jan/10 TR dog
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
dan gibson 08/Nov/09 Lead rpt
with sam read
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead dnf
FrostyWebb 01/Jul/09 Lead dog

Good name!

with Bogdan
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead dog
thomasadixon 07/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alan & Co
Reaver2k 07/Apr/09 2nd dog

Tom's first 7a! and a clean onsight at that! My first 7a aswell outside, really shouldn't haven't have fallen off it! Gutted! Really hard moves off the ledge, right hand up high and left onto the ramp, match, then right hand out of right. Scramble up the ramp. Looked like there was a rest at the top, but turns out there wasn't! Then the last move, missed the hold over the top of the crack and came off. Left foot swung up and left onto the arete. Great effort, will have to attempt to lead next time im there!

with Katie Keeley, Alex Bashford, Tom Dixon
vertigo 21/Feb/09 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead dog
schof 15/Jan/09 Lead β
with biggie bob
Rob Grant 07/Jan/09 -
with rob davies
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 14/Apr/08 Lead RP
marky ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Richard Horn 23/Sep/07 Lead RP
feeko 06/May/07 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 15/Mar/07 Lead dnf
with Salomon Fernandez
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
bigie bob 15/Jul/06 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
feilx ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 12/Mar/05 -
Hidden 06/Oct/02 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 15/May/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Billg 25/Feb/01 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/97 Lead β
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
24 users have this on their wishlist
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set