17m.

Rockfax Description
A hard and technical route with three difficult sections. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 02/Oct/1996

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Jus 3 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: After failing on this route on numerous occasions with the moves totally wired, I finally realised what the name is all about! Finally got it done though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After failing on this route on numerous occasions with the moves totally wired, I finally realised what the name is all about! Finally got it done though!
Rob Kennard 24 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: There is a trick to this one that makes it reasonable at the grade, for the Cuttings that is!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a trick to this one that makes it reasonable at the grade, for the Cuttings that is!
Jeff25 24 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this route was very hard for the grade. The lower to mid height crux is nigh on impossible if you're under 6 foot...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought this route was very hard for the grade. The lower to mid height crux is nigh on impossible if you're under 6 foot...
Ben Stokes 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A really rewarding route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A really rewarding route.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
igola 8 Jun Lead dog Two goes, got all moves 2nd time. Dynamic/explosive move to jug, then delicate move out right to make better use of crack/massive side pull. Needs a bit more work, but should go next few goes.
Two goes, got all moves 2nd time. Dynamic/explosive move to jug, then delicate move out right to make better use of crack/massive side pull. Needs a bit more work, but should go next few goes.
samparsons 28 Mar Lead RP Great route the move out right at the top is hard but the rest not too bad. 17.3.19 First blast today, after two RP managed to get to the move out to the crimp in the crack. Foot work is difficult around that section. 18.3.19 pretty worn out today but went for another couple of blasts anyway. Got to the same point but footing wrong.
Great route the move out right at the top is hard but the rest not too bad. 17.3.19 First blast today, after two RP managed to get to the move out to the crimp in the crack. Foot work is difficult around that section. 18.3.19 pretty worn out today but went for another couple of blasts anyway. Got to the same point but footing wrong.
Kris suriyo 2 Mar Lead RP
Shane Willis 21 Feb Lead RP I thought I was going to send this while putting the bolts in, but got my feet in the wrong place on the final crux and got stuck, unable to move further up, or climb back to sort them out. Still, it went on the next go and felt sublime. I love how much this route feels like a series of awesome boulder problems stacked on top of each other. Highly recommend it.
I thought I was going to send this while putting the bolts in, but got my feet in the wrong place on the final crux and got stuck, unable to move further up, or climb back to sort them out. Still, it went on the next go and felt sublime. I love how much this route feels like a series of awesome boulder problems stacked on top of each other. Highly recommend it.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28 Jan Lead RP
philhaigh 22 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Not even close
with mregueira, Noe NK, Raul Enriquez, Quitiweb, Juanjo Castill?n
Not even close
with mregueira, Noe NK, Raul Enriquez, Quitiweb, Juanjo Castill?n
tobydunford 5 May, 2018 Lead RP
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
tobydunford 28 Apr, 2018 Lead dog
with Oli
with Oli
Tutu 22 Apr, 2018 TR dog There was a top rope on it, so I tried the moves – v. hard reachy & dynamic crux, I did do it after a few attempts but would take much longer on lead.
with Ben S
There was a top rope on it, so I tried the moves – v. hard reachy & dynamic crux, I did do it after a few attempts but would take much longer on lead.
with Ben S
tobydunford 1 Apr, 2018 Lead dog
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
i_a_coops ?Apr, 2018 Lead RP Definitely harder than 7b+ now, fantastic moves
with Alice
Definitely harder than 7b+ now, fantastic moves
with Alice
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
suddy 2 Dec, 2017 Lead dnf
with RKirke
with RKirke
ThomasB 25 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
jakecollins 1 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 29 Jun, 2017 TR dog
artmal 23 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
with Anna
with Anna
ChrisDavis 15 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
with Sarah Barr
with Sarah Barr
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
Ed Babs 22 Dec, 2016 Lead RP Great. Another pea-soup assisted ascent. 15 Oct 2016 - dropped it after the last hard move. Doh. And a very apt route name today! 28 Mar 2016 - with Phil. A lot to work out. Beware that the first jug feels like it is about to come off - probably best to pre-clip the first bolt.
Great. Another pea-soup assisted ascent. 15 Oct 2016 - dropped it after the last hard move. Doh. And a very apt route name today! 28 Mar 2016 - with Phil. A lot to work out. Beware that the first jug feels like it is about to come off - probably best to pre-clip the first bolt.
ricci.andrea86 ?Nov, 2016 Lead RP first 7b+/7c in a day! 4th attempt!
first 7b+/7c in a day! 4th attempt!
chris_woodsy 22 Oct, 2016 Lead RP Two days getting the moves locked in, then went first RP of the day. Felt hard to me... harder than hall of mirrors.
with Widda
Two days getting the moves locked in, then went first RP of the day. Felt hard to me... harder than hall of mirrors.
with Widda
crimpaway 24 Sep, 2016 Lead dog Couldn't do two of the cruxes. Need better feet and to try on a cooler day with better skin.
with Kate Serby
Couldn't do two of the cruxes. Need better feet and to try on a cooler day with better skin.
with Kate Serby
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
philhaigh 30 Apr, 2016 2nd dog No real attempts today.. warming up and then stripping gear as Nat was hurt.
with AlexD, Mike Hawkins, nataliehaigh
No real attempts today.. warming up and then stripping gear as Nat was hurt.
with AlexD, Mike Hawkins, nataliehaigh
philhaigh 28 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
philhaigh 25 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
Garrouli 16 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Definitely hard for 7b+ - Hall of Mirrors is a lot easier than this!
with Mark
Definitely hard for 7b+ - Hall of Mirrors is a lot easier than this!
with Mark
Hidden 16 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
nimajneb 9 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
Albachoss 9 Apr, 2016 Lead dog A truly awesome route with some amazing moves and many ways of doing the crux sections. I unfortunately ripped off the starting jug and decked. A shallower, wider but much more solid finger edge remains, the starting moves are no harder with the right beta. Sorry!
A truly awesome route with some amazing moves and many ways of doing the crux sections. I unfortunately ripped off the starting jug and decked. A shallower, wider but much more solid finger edge remains, the starting moves are no harder with the right beta. Sorry!
philhaigh 28 Mar, 2016 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 Lead dog
nimajneb 16 Jan, 2016 Lead RP Awesome
Awesome
BenL 5 Dec, 2015 Lead RP Great moves all the way up. Felt solid 7c to me.
Great moves all the way up. Felt solid 7c to me.
lewiz 27 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
with Artur Malczuk
with Artur Malczuk
marcduhig 11 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf
with Andrew
with Andrew
RadekNowak 21 Jun, 2015 Lead RP Excellent route with 3 hard sections. Took me 2 nonconsecutive days to work sequences, and another 2 and half red point days. Gone today! One of the best routes so far, and probably the hardest. Difficult to believe its ‘only’ half grade harder to several 7b’s I’ve done. Closer to 7c then 7b+? Got to move on Hall of Mirrors to be able to compare.
with Kapor, artmal
Excellent route with 3 hard sections. Took me 2 nonconsecutive days to work sequences, and another 2 and half red point days. Gone today! One of the best routes so far, and probably the hardest. Difficult to believe its ‘only’ half grade harder to several 7b’s I’ve done. Closer to 7c then 7b+? Got to move on Hall of Mirrors to be able to compare.
with Kapor, artmal
thomasmouse 31 Jan, 2015 Lead dog Now 7c with missing crux hold
with Camilla Barnard
Now 7c with missing crux hold
with Camilla Barnard
Hidden 25 Jan, 2015 Lead RP
thomasmouse 11 Jan, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Nov, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 19 Oct, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 5 Oct, 2014 Lead dog
grey wolf 29 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Had to fight really hard, partly due to the fact I have no endurance whatsoever! In the end climbing really fast did the trick! Great route, would be hard to insight
Had to fight really hard, partly due to the fact I have no endurance whatsoever! In the end climbing really fast did the trick! Great route, would be hard to insight
Marcus 19 Aug, 2014 Lead RP At last! For "shorties" like me (5' 9") the third crux is really hard, as now that the old hold has gone, you have to make the big stretch from just a pinch and that's after using quite a bit of power on the other two cruxes. The first crux is pretty hard in itself - if you go direct (which you should) - and the second isn't a pushover either. You need very good friction all the way up. As the climb now feels harder than Hall of Mirrors, perhaps the grade needs to be adjusted (hard 7c or soft 7c+?) It could do with a few more clean ascents, so a consensus could emerge. Anyway, today it felt effortless - which made a change!
with Paul Jackson
At last! For "shorties" like me (5' 9") the third crux is really hard, as now that the old hold has gone, you have to make the big stretch from just a pinch and that's after using quite a bit of power on the other two cruxes. The first crux is pretty hard in itself - if you go direct (which you should) - and the second isn't a pushover either. You need very good friction all the way up. As the climb now feels harder than Hall of Mirrors, perhaps the grade needs to be adjusted (hard 7c or soft 7c+?) It could do with a few more clean ascents, so a consensus could emerge. Anyway, today it felt effortless - which made a change!
with Paul Jackson
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 TR dog
Hidden 15 Jun, 2014 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 14 Jun, 2014 Lead dnf Moved from the 'total bafflement' to the 'completely overwhelmed and feeling weak' stage
with Paul
Moved from the 'total bafflement' to the 'completely overwhelmed and feeling weak' stage
with Paul
Bristoldave 11 May, 2014 Lead dog
with London Luke, Caroline
with London Luke, Caroline
Hidden 5 May, 2014 TR dog
Hidden 3 May, 2014 Lead RP
lewiz 12 Apr, 2014 Lead RP Finally! It does go with the missing hold on the upper crux, at least if you're tall :)
Finally! It does go with the missing hold on the upper crux, at least if you're tall :)
lewiz 30 Mar, 2014 Lead dog New upper crux sequence without 'crux hold'. Won't work for shorties but the grade isn't changed. Stuck the second crux dyno but fell on the upper crux. Will go soon.
New upper crux sequence without 'crux hold'. Won't work for shorties but the grade isn't changed. Stuck the second crux dyno but fell on the upper crux. Will go soon.
lewiz 16 Mar, 2014 Lead dog Made a really great link to the dyno move (fall). After a rest I looked set to make it to the top but pulled off the 'crux' hold. The final crux is now considerably harder and I've not managed to do the moves from off the rope. Forum post to follow as I have the hold in my chalk bag. Perhaps a candidate for glue, or the route might now be as hard as Hall of Mirrors.
with Artur Malczuk
Made a really great link to the dyno move (fall). After a rest I looked set to make it to the top but pulled off the 'crux' hold. The final crux is now considerably harder and I've not managed to do the moves from off the rope. Forum post to follow as I have the hold in my chalk bag. Perhaps a candidate for glue, or the route might now be as hard as Hall of Mirrors.
with Artur Malczuk
lewiz 15 Mar, 2014 Lead dog
with Artur Malczuk
with Artur Malczuk
Hidden 2 Jan, 2014 Lead dog
Ed Booth 29 Dec, 2013 Lead RP 2nd go. Some great moves!
2nd go. Some great moves!
Adam Booth 29 Dec, 2013 TR dog Tired. Feels hard for 7b+ but should go when I'm fresh.
Tired. Feels hard for 7b+ but should go when I'm fresh.
quiffhanger 27 May, 2013 Lead dog Ambitiously went for an end of day on-sight but way to technical and weird. Def worthwhile - some great moves.
Ambitiously went for an end of day on-sight but way to technical and weird. Def worthwhile - some great moves.
3 Names 27 May, 2013 Lead RP 5th RP via easier right hand sequence
5th RP via easier right hand sequence
Hidden 22 May, 2013 Lead RP
3 Names 22 May, 2013 Lead dog Done in two halfs
Done in two halfs
Kevster 10 May, 2013 Lead dog
Kopinski ?Feb, 2013 Lead RP
dan gibson 6 Oct, 2012 Lead RP
with julie carroll
with julie carroll
Hidden 8 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 17 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
with Sophie Nunn
with Sophie Nunn
natalietanzer 16 Mar, 2012 TR dog awesome and hard!
with Dan Gibson
awesome and hard!
with Dan Gibson
matt perks ??, 2012 -
Ged Desforges ??, 2012 - Brilliant route, amazing moves. Bloody hard for 7b+ I thought. Felt solid 7c. Was quite warm I suppose
Brilliant route, amazing moves. Bloody hard for 7b+ I thought. Felt solid 7c. Was quite warm I suppose
La benya 26 Jun, 2011 Lead RP Should have gone second go, eventually took four rps. Very good climbing. Felt low in the grade to me.
Should have gone second go, eventually took four rps. Very good climbing. Felt low in the grade to me.
Hidden 29 May, 2011 Lead dog
Mark Warnett ?Mar, 2011 Lead rpt great wall climbing
great wall climbing
Hidden 17 Dec, 2010 Lead RP
pezzerrr 5 Dec, 2010 Lead RP
schof 13 May, 2010 Lead RP first redpoint, very good
with trev ford
first redpoint, very good
with trev ford
Hidden 3 May, 2010 Lead RP
trev_f 30 Apr, 2010 Lead RP First 7b+
with schof
First 7b+
with schof
Leeds 18 Apr, 2010 Lead RP
billb ?Apr, 2010 Lead
Hidden 3 May, 2009 Lead dog
hippo99 3 May, 2009 Lead RP
with sam em
with sam em
sam_cox 3 May, 2009 Lead
feilx 21 Dec, 2008 Lead RP
Richard Horn 15 Nov, 2008 Lead RP
feilx 15 Nov, 2008 Lead dog
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 Lead RP
Castleclimber 13 Apr, 2008 Lead RP It took a lot of work, but when it came together it felt effortless.
with Leeloo
It took a lot of work, but when it came together it felt effortless.
with Leeloo
hamer89 17 Feb, 2008 Lead RP
John Southworth ??, 2008 -
Jus ?Sep, 2007 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 7 Aug, 2007 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
bigie bob 5 Nov, 2006 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?Sep, 2006 Lead RP
lukea 28 Dec, 2005 Lead dog
with Olaf
with Olaf
lukea 28 Dec, 2005 Lead dog
with dan
with dan
Hidden 8 Jun, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden 6 Sep, 1997 Lead RP
22 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set