Rockfax Description
A hard and technical route with three difficult sections. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 2.10.96 02/Oct/1996

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

suddy 02/Dec/17 Lead dnf
ThomasB 25/Nov/17 Lead RP
jakecollins 01/Aug/17 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jun/17 TR dog
artmal 23/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Anna
Hidden 15/Apr/17 Lead RP
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Ed Babs 22/Dec/16 Lead RP

Great. Another pea-soup assisted ascent. 15 Oct 2016 - dropped it after the last hard move. Doh. And a very apt route name today! 28 Mar 2016 - with Phil. A lot to work out. Beware that the first jug feels like it is about to come off - probably best to pre-clip the first bolt.

with Ellis
ricci.andrea86 ?/Nov/16 Lead RP

first 7b+/7c in a day! 4th attempt!

chris_woodsy 22/Oct/16 Lead RP

Two days getting the moves locked in, then went first RP of the day. Felt hard to me... harder than hall of mirrors.

with Widdaz
crimpaway 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

Couldn't do two of the cruxes. Need better feet and to try on a cooler day with better skin.

with Kate Serby
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead dog
philhaigh 30/Apr/16 2nd dog

No real attempts today.. warming up and then stripping gear as Nat was hurt.

with Alex Dennis, Mike Hawkins, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 28/Apr/16 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
philhaigh 25/Apr/16 Lead dog
Garrouli 16/Apr/16 Lead RP

Definitely hard for 7b+ - Hall of Mirrors is a lot easier than this!

with Mark
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead RP
nimajneb 09/Apr/16 Lead RP
Albachoss 09/Apr/16 Lead dog

A truly awesome route with some amazing moves and many ways of doing the crux sections. I unfortunately ripped off the starting jug and decked. A shallower, wider but much more solid finger edge remains, the starting moves are no harder with the right beta. Sorry!

with Ben
philhaigh 28/Mar/16 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead dog
nimajneb 16/Jan/16 Lead RP


BenL 05/Dec/15 Lead RP

Great moves all the way up. Felt solid 7c to me.

lewiz 27/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Artur Malczuk
marcduhig 11/Jul/15 Lead dnf
with Andrew
RadekNowak 21/Jun/15 Lead RP

Excellent route with 3 hard sections. Took me 2 nonconsecutive days to work sequences, and another 2 and half red point days. Gone today! One of the best routes so far, and probably the hardest. Difficult to believe its ‘only’ half grade harder to several 7b’s I’ve done. Closer to 7c then 7b+? Got to move on Hall of Mirrors to be able to compare.

with Kapor, Artur
thomasmouse 31/Jan/15 Lead dog

Now 7c with missing crux hold

with Camilla Barnard
Hidden 25/Jan/15 Lead RP
thomasmouse 11/Jan/15 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead dog
grey wolf 29/Aug/14 Lead RP

Had to fight really hard, partly due to the fact I have no endurance whatsoever! In the end climbing really fast did the trick! Great route, would be hard to insight

Marcus 19/Aug/14 Lead RP

At last! For "shorties" like me (5' 9") the third crux is really hard, as now that the old hold has gone, you have to make the big stretch from just a pinch and that's after using quite a bit of power on the other two cruxes. The first crux is pretty hard in itself - if you go direct (which you should) - and the second isn't a pushover either. You need very good friction all the way up. As the climb now feels harder than Hall of Mirrors, perhaps the grade needs to be adjusted (hard 7c or soft 7c+?) It could do with a few more clean ascents, so a consensus could emerge. Anyway, today it felt effortless - which made a change!

with Paul Jackson
Hidden 09/Aug/14 TR dog
Hidden 15/Jun/14 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 14/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Moved from the 'total bafflement' to the 'completely overwhelmed and feeling weak' stage

with Paul
Bristoldave 11/May/14 Lead dog
with LukeW, Caroline
Hidden 05/May/14 TR dog
Linc 03/May/14 Lead RP
lewiz 12/Apr/14 Lead RP

Finally! It does go with the missing hold on the upper crux, at least if you're tall :)

lewiz 30/Mar/14 Lead dog

New upper crux sequence without 'crux hold'. Won't work for shorties but the grade isn't changed. Stuck the second crux dyno but fell on the upper crux. Will go soon.

lewiz 16/Mar/14 Lead dog

Made a really great link to the dyno move (fall). After a rest I looked set to make it to the top but pulled off the 'crux' hold. The final crux is now considerably harder and I've not managed to do the moves from off the rope. Forum post to follow as I have the hold in my chalk bag. Perhaps a candidate for glue, or the route might now be as hard as Hall of Mirrors.

with Artur Malczuk
lewiz 15/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Artur Malczuk
Hidden 02/Jan/14 Lead dog
Ed Booth 29/Dec/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Some great moves!

Adam Booth 29/Dec/13 TR dog

Tired. Feels hard for 7b+ but should go when I'm fresh.

quiffhanger 27/May/13 Lead dog

Ambitiously went for an end of day on-sight but way to technical and weird. Def worthwhile - some great moves.

with Kate
3 Names 27/May/13 Lead RP

5th RP via easier right hand sequence

with Nick
Hidden 22/May/13 Lead RP
3 Names 22/May/13 Lead dog

Done in two halfs

Kevster 10/May/13 Lead dog
Kopinski ?/Feb/13 Lead RP
dan gibson 06/Oct/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 17/Mar/12 Lead RP
with Sophie Nunn
natalietanzer 16/Mar/12 TR dog

awesome and hard!

with Dan Gibson
matt perks ??/2012 -
Ged Desforges ??/2012 -

Brilliant route, amazing moves. Bloody hard for 7b+ I thought. Felt solid 7c. Was quite warm I suppose

La benya 26/Jun/11 Lead RP

Should have gone second go, eventually took four rps. Very good climbing. Felt low in the grade to me.

Hidden 29/May/11 Lead dog
Mark Warnett ?/Mar/11 Lead rpt

great wall climbing

Hidden 17/Dec/10 Lead RP
pezzerrr 05/Dec/10 Lead RP
schof 13/May/10 Lead RP

first redpoint, very good

with trev ford
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead RP
trev_f 30/Apr/10 Lead RP

First 7b+

with Andy
Leeds 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
billb ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead dog
hippo99 03/May/09 Lead RP
with sam em
sam_cox 03/May/09 Lead
feilx 21/Dec/08 Lead RP
with Heather
Richard Horn 15/Nov/08 Lead RP
feilx 15/Nov/08 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead RP
Castleclimber 13/Apr/08 Lead RP

It took a lot of work, but when it came together it felt effortless.

Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead RP
John Southworth ??/2008 -
Jus ?/Sep/07 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 07/Aug/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
bigie bob 05/Nov/06 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Sep/06 Lead RP
lukea 28/Dec/05 Lead dog
with Olaf
lukea 28/Dec/05 Lead dog
with dan
Hidden 08/Jun/05 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 06/Sep/97 Lead RP
14 users have this on their wishlist
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set