Rockfax Description
A more sustained alternative to Grande Muro with fewer pegs.
Start as for Grande Muro.
1-2) As for Grande Muro.
3) VI-, 35m. Move up and left to the prominent corner (Grande Muro follows the right chimney here) and climb this, on featureless rock, to a stance below a continuation corner.
4) VI+, 35m. Climb the corner above to a yellow flake, and climb this with sustained climbing (alternatively, make moves right - easier at VI) to reach an uncomfortable stance.
5) VII-, 40m. Continue up the smooth and steep corner to reach the large ledge at mid height.
6) VI+, 20m. Head to the steep wall directly in front and climb this direct for a few metres. Move right then back left to a stance to the left of a roof.
7) VII, 20m. Make a rising traverse left.
8) VII-, 30m. Climb direct, then traverse left again past various pegs to a stance below a crack.
9) VII-, 40m. Climb the crack direct to reach a corner. Climb this to a stance.
10) V+, 30m. Continue in the same line, then exit the corner on the left. Move up then traverse back right and belay below a slanting chimney.
11) IV, 30m. Follow the chimney easily right to reach the summit plateau. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A nice route up good quality rock, more sustained and with less in-situ gear than nearby Grande Muro.

Albert Precht & George Wenge 26/Jun/1984.

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