Rockfax Description
A superb and utterly classic climb that doesn't receive the attention it deserves. The flake traverse at three-quarters height is particularly memorable.
Start at the base of a large corner, marked by two pegs.

1) V-, 25m. Climb a flaked corner rightwards on loose rock to a stance on the right below a corner.
2) V, 25m. Climb the corner in the same line then step right onto a wide ledge.
3) V, 40m. Move easily up and right to reach the prominent right-hand corner (Grande Muro Direct tackles the left of these) and climb this to a ledge.
4) IV, 35m. Continue in the chimney as it narrows to reach flakes on the right. Follow these to avoid the steepest part of the chimney then step left.
5) V+, 40m. Move left and climb a flake, then move back right to follow a loose corner to the large ledge at half height.
6) VII, 40m. Climb an overhanging crack up the middle of the steep yellow wall in front, then continue more easily right on grey rock to a good stance.
7) VI, 40m. Climb a corner via a flake to reach the infamous flake traverse. Follow this right with wonderfully exposed climbing on an excellent handrail, then make an awkward move down and step across delicately using a thin flake before moving up to an uncomfortable stance.
8) VI-, 20m. Climb the crack above direct to the upper overhang, then traverse delicately left to an exposed stance below a crack.
9) VII, 30m. Climb the vertical crack with sustained climbing but on good holds, then reach easier ground and continue direct to top out on the summit plateau. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Look out for the big flake traverse!

Ticklists

Dolomites - June - 2023

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