40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking in).
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the crack and corner to a roof. A tricky move around an arete leads to a belay at the foot of the main corner.
2) 5a, 22m. Ascend the corner past a bulge, then climb the arm-blowing cracks to a rightward exit via a cleaned ledge. © Rockfax

FFA. Howard Lancashire, Falco Rech Jan/1975, FA. Richard Crewe, G.Smith 14/Nov/1971

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

LJC 14/Oct/17 Lead rpt

P1. Wet and dirty

with Andy
andycash 14/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
with Luca
Pete Scott 27/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 22/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch Very steep.

Marl 27/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Used mini traction on abb rope to ascend. Sea lapping at feet as I landed from free hanging abseil. Yet another great route. Would have loved to have lead it.

dave o 22/Oct/16 AltLd

Outstanding route

with Mark Littlewood
Stroppy 18/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

P2 - One of the best pitches ever? It's got to be up there, good moves, sustained, exposed, jugs, gear. It's has it all!

Sam Husband 18/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Lead p1. End of P1 wakes you up from the bimble to that point. P2 was sustained and technical and one of the best pitches of climbing I've done ever, felt hard though - would have struggled to lead with the hangover sweats!

with Ed
Dizz 18/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Mike Weatherill 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S
afterthesend 13/May/16 Lead O/S
ricci.andrea86 ?/Apr/16 2nd
Bristoldave 18/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with william, colin
Chris Sansum 20/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Tabi Leask
Hidden 20/Sep/15 2nd
tim.fairhall 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S

In one pitch

with Sachi
jsmcfarland 17/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Tim led in one pitch in good style, what a brilliant route! The section moving around under the roof and getting round is pretty hard for HVS, there are a few good hidden holds though. No excuse not to lead climbs like this in 1 pitch if you have 60m ropes!

with Tim
AlexD 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Finally got on this and it didn't disappoint - awesome rock and holds!

with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 15/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Alex
LJC 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S


with Marion
elfka 12/May/15 2nd
with Will Graham, Joe Doherty
WillGraham1 12/May/15 AltLd O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
mikehenesy 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

An exciting trip across the boulders courtesy of a spring tide and the remnants of bertha, 'hey sonia -surfs up!'. First pitch fine, missed the 5a. Second pitch a cruise, until the 'arm blowing crack', got a leg in the crack for a near no arms rest - needed it. Loads of pro. Nat cruised it and Sonia was throwing in some moves while Elvis here was busy thrutching.

with nat, Sonia
sonic46 15/Aug/14 2nd

Wow, great fun getting to the route - and wow what a route! Terrifying but brilliant. What a great lead - thanks Mike :)

with Nat, Mike H
nige pacer 02/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Lea
islandlynx 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

did as 3 pitches, led all of them. great route.

with Amy
AmyAmy 22/Jun/14 2nd
funsized 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Fi
mc fifi 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
will moy 14/Oct/13 -
with paul taylor
will moy 14/Oct/13 -
paultaylor 14/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, awesome route

mick1jones 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
Hidden 14/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Dave Mahon ?/Oct/12 AltLd

Led P2 this time. Needed a rest when I dislodged an old bird's nest into my face. Great route.

with Brian Mead
Kirill 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Led as one pitch

Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
duncan 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Sep/12 Lead

Great fun.

with Ian Bryant
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead
Haydn Jones 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with pep
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Kevster 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
matt.jj ?/Oct/11 AltLd
Dave Mahon ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1, interesting and committing traverse to left at top. Holds are in abundance, hope they don't snap off... P2 is pumpy but loads of gear and holds.

Julian Prieto 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Monkey_Alan 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Whoa! "Arm blowing" cracks indeed! After repeated tries and downclimbs to the rest ledge, finally got to the top, totally pumped.

Graham Westbrook 07/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Westy
norb ?/Jun/11 2nd
halfwaythere 09/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Rich K 23/Jan/11 Lead dog

Lead the first pitch ok, made a mess of the second pitch and rested on gear before struggling up the "arm-blowing cracks".

with Wayne Cheung
Hidden 23/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 07/Nov/10 2nd rpt
with Floris
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt
feilx 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with Heather
cem 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt
tobydunford 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
PaulW ?/Sep/10 Lead

Superb intimidating route. Soft for the grade though and loads of gear. Low tide is best for approach to avoid a paddle

Hidden 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
LoopyLou 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

R led first pitch, i led the second. First pitch has a cute exposed move to exit the groove and pull around the arete to the belay. Exciting second pitch on good holds, fantastic positions, bit 'goey' for about 6m. One of my all time favourite HVS's.

with Roslyn
Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd
givemetea 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Second pitch seems more 'full on' despite having an easier technical grade. Fabulous climb.

with Louisa
Ceridwen 12/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Ceridwen 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Wow, what a route!

with Andy Mosienko
uncontrollable 09/Aug/09 AltLd β

lead pitch 2 - stunning

with stewart, bob
Bob M 09/Aug/09 2nd
with Frodo Stickel, Stewart Walker
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mark89 17/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
mutt ??/2009 -
with Naomi Moran
Hidden 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S
mike.moss 27/Sep/08 AltLd
Rollo 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Quite scary once you step round out of the corner. Sustained. Mike lead 1st pitch.

with Mike
Jane Weir 27/Sep/08 AltLd
Richard Horn 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
steve taylor 13/Sep/08 AltLd dnf

Pulled off a hold, smashed my head in, fell off, bled all over the place, 6 stitches! Lovely route though.

Hidden 13/Sep/08 AltLd
Different Steve 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Great pitch..

with Simon Chandler
maresia 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Superb and not as strenuous as expected. Some cunning rests can be found.

with Rob Scheichl
Bullybones ?/Sep/08 AltLd
clipskipper 09/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Took the steep and juggy top pitch - plenty of holds and plenty of gear

with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 09/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
mike.moss ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 15/Sep/07 AltLd

Dave led the first pitch (5b), I did the second, which should have been 5a. Managed to go off route near the top - probably no harder technically but loose and scary !

with Dave T
Owen W-G 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Never 5b to step around arete (5a if that), but perhaps 5b deserved for the steep finale. Some brilliant 3D climbing on P2 would've been much harder if it wasn't for the insitu threads. You can't question any of its' 3 stars.

with Ned
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
mutt 05/Nov/06 -

Fantastic Route. 5b move under the roof feels exposed and insecure but is over in no time. Top pitch is the best I've done - steep corner on big holds then arm blowing cracks to the top.

with Naomi Moran
dan gibson 14/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with AJ
AJ007 ?/Sep/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
brian watson ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Bob M 13/Sep/05 AltLd

Led top pitch - simply amazing

with Pam Jolliffe
bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Boxy 19/Feb/05 2nd
with Vince
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 05/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd dog
Paul_southgate68 ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/00 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
WB 17/Nov/98 AltLd O/S
with Guy
kp64zl ?/Oct/97 2nd
with Roland, Roger
cem ?/Sep/96 2nd dog

Fell off on second pitch, catching my belayer (Graham) unawares. He ended up with rope burns

with Neil Peck, Graham Dolman
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
MoWalker3 26/Sep/93 AltLd
with Joe
kp64zl ?/Jan/92 Lead
with Matt H
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
steve taylor ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Martin Stansbury
Dave Musgrove 22/Feb/86 -
GuyM ??/1985 -
Nigel Coe 09/Sep/81 -
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 07/Dec/80 Lead
with John Walmsley
Falko 04/Jan/75 AltLd O/S

2nd ascent and first free ascent (dispensed with 1 aid peg) - Richard Crewe present to confirm.

with Howard Lancashire
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 47
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set