Rockfax Description
A well-protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking in).
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the crack and corner to a roof. Make tricky moves left around an arete to a belay ledge at the foot of the main corner.
2) 5a, 22m. Climb the corner past a bulge, then follow the steep cracks to exit rightwards via a cleaned ledge. © Rockfax
FFA. Howard Lancashire, Falco Rech Jan/1975, FA. Richard Crewe, G.Smith 14/Nov/1971.
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , Ultimate HVS ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Cool Names , Dorset , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Routes for MCI , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012) , Definitive *** Swanage
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| danimal88 | 9 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: 14 fenceposts from forst wall takes you to the top of bohemoth | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 14 fenceposts from forst wall takes you to the top of bohemoth |
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| jtree03 | 2 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear. |
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Logged Ascents
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The Maypole
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lulworth)