40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking in).
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the crack and corner to a roof. A tricky move around an arete leads to a belay at the foot of the main corner.
2) 5a, 22m. Ascend the corner past a bulge, then climb the arm-blowing cracks to a rightward exit via a cleaned ledge. © Rockfax

FFA. Howard Lancashire, Falco Rech Jan/1975, FA. Richard Crewe, G.Smith 14/Nov/1971

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Cool Names, Dorset

Feedback

UserDateNotes
jtree03 2 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 15 Sep AltLd O/S
jasonpm 10 Sep AltLd Excellent, led top pitch, very steep but no need to arm blast cracks if you’re happy to bridge.
with Simon
Excellent, led top pitch, very steep but no need to arm blast cracks if you’re happy to bridge.
with Simon
ClimbingAlex 25 Aug Lead O/S In a oner. So good and steep!
In a oner. So good and steep!
Katsmiff 25 Aug AltLd O/S Deserves it's top 50. Lovely route. Raf did the first pitch. I lead the 2nd. Good gear the whole way up. You could get lots of rests on the 2nd pitch, no arm blowing needed, as per route description. Just stick an arm or leg in the crack and rest. Did smell of bird poop the whole way up though. Wasn’t feeling very strong so was probably closer to the crack that I needed to be.
Deserves it's top 50. Lovely route. Raf did the first pitch. I lead the 2nd. Good gear the whole way up. You could get lots of rests on the 2nd pitch, no arm blowing needed, as per route description. Just stick an arm or leg in the crack and rest. Did smell of bird poop the whole way up though. Wasn’t feeling very strong so was probably closer to the crack that I needed to be.
Rafal Malczyk 25 Aug AltLd O/S
tobydunford 25 Aug 2nd rpt
with Poole Alex
with Poole Alex
Dan Arkle 4 May 2nd
spidey 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead second pitch
Lead second pitch
GeorgiePorgie1 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
with spidey
with spidey
Mike Weatherill 7 Oct, 2018 2nd
with Noah , tobypittstucker
with Noah , tobypittstucker
Hidden 12 Sep, 2018 2nd
josefft 25 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with samkat
with samkat
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2018 2nd
adamsriches 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
punchpidge 5 Aug, 2018 2nd β
Alex Winter 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Got badly caterpillared at the top and broke out in a horribly itchy rash the following morning.
with Alex, W. Morgan
Got badly caterpillared at the top and broke out in a horribly itchy rash the following morning.
with Alex, W. Morgan
William Morgan 15 Jul, 2018 2nd dog
Tom265 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
LucaC 14 Oct, 2017 Lead rpt P1. Wet and dirty
P1. Wet and dirty
andycash 14 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
Pete Scott 27 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 22 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Led second pitch Very steep.
Led second pitch Very steep.
Marl 27 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S Used mini traction on abb rope to ascend. Sea lapping at feet as I landed from free hanging abseil. Yet another great route. Would have loved to have lead it.
Used mini traction on abb rope to ascend. Sea lapping at feet as I landed from free hanging abseil. Yet another great route. Would have loved to have lead it.
dave o 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd Outstanding route
with Mark Littlewood
Outstanding route
with Mark Littlewood
Stroppy 18 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S P2 - One of the best pitches ever? It's got to be up there, good moves, sustained, exposed, jugs, gear. It's has it all!
P2 - One of the best pitches ever? It's got to be up there, good moves, sustained, exposed, jugs, gear. It's has it all!
Sam Husband 18 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead p1. End of P1 wakes you up from the bimble to that point. P2 was sustained and technical and one of the best pitches of climbing I've done ever, felt hard though - would have struggled to lead with the hangover sweats!
with Stroppy
Lead p1. End of P1 wakes you up from the bimble to that point. P2 was sustained and technical and one of the best pitches of climbing I've done ever, felt hard though - would have struggled to lead with the hangover sweats!
with Stroppy
Dizz 18 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Mike Weatherill 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
afterthesend 13 May, 2016 Lead O/S
ricci.andrea86 ?Apr, 2016 2nd
Bristoldave 18 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p1
with william, colin
Led p1
with william, colin
Chris Sansum 20 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
with Tabi Leask
with Tabi Leask
Hidden 20 Sep, 2015 2nd
Hidden 17 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 17 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Tim led in one pitch in good style, what a brilliant route! The section moving around under the roof and getting round is pretty hard for HVS, there are a few good hidden holds though. No excuse not to lead climbs like this in 1 pitch if you have 60m ropes!
Tim led in one pitch in good style, what a brilliant route! The section moving around under the roof and getting round is pretty hard for HVS, there are a few good hidden holds though. No excuse not to lead climbs like this in 1 pitch if you have 60m ropes!
AlexD 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Finally got on this and it didn't disappoint - awesome rock and holds!
Finally got on this and it didn't disappoint - awesome rock and holds!
Sophie Nunn 15 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt
with AlexD
with AlexD
LucaC 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S P2
with Marion
P2
with Marion
elfka 12 May, 2015 2nd
with Will Graham, Joe Doherty
with Will Graham, Joe Doherty
WillGraham1 12 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
mikehenesy 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S An exciting trip across the boulders courtesy of a spring tide and the remnants of bertha, 'hey sonia -surfs up!'. First pitch fine, missed the 5a. Second pitch a cruise, until the 'arm blowing crack', got a leg in the crack for a near no arms rest - needed it. Loads of pro. Nat cruised it and Sonia was throwing in some moves while Elvis here was busy thrutching.
with nat, Sonia
An exciting trip across the boulders courtesy of a spring tide and the remnants of bertha, 'hey sonia -surfs up!'. First pitch fine, missed the 5a. Second pitch a cruise, until the 'arm blowing crack', got a leg in the crack for a near no arms rest - needed it. Loads of pro. Nat cruised it and Sonia was throwing in some moves while Elvis here was busy thrutching.
with nat, Sonia
sonic46 15 Aug, 2014 2nd Wow, great fun getting to the route - and wow what a route! Terrifying but brilliant. What a great lead - thanks Mike :)
with Nat, mikehenesy
Wow, great fun getting to the route - and wow what a route! Terrifying but brilliant. What a great lead - thanks Mike :)
with Nat, mikehenesy
nige pacer 2 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Mike Lea
with Mike Lea
islandlynx 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S did as 3 pitches, led all of them. great route.
with AmyAmy
did as 3 pitches, led all of them. great route.
with AmyAmy
AmyAmy 22 Jun, 2014 2nd
funsized 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
mc fifi 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Nov, 2013 Lead rpt
will moy 14 Oct, 2013 -
with paul taylor
with paul taylor
will moy 14 Oct, 2013 -
paultaylor 14 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P2, awesome route
Lead P2, awesome route
mick1jones 5 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
with Rich Rogers
Hidden 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd rpt
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2013 -
ianto ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Dave Mahon ?Oct, 2012 AltLd Led P2 this time. Needed a rest when I dislodged an old bird's nest into my face. Great route.
with Brian Mead
Led P2 this time. Needed a rest when I dislodged an old bird's nest into my face. Great route.
with Brian Mead
Kirill 29 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Led as one pitch
with GrahamD
Led as one pitch
with GrahamD
Hidden 29 Sep, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd rpt
duncan 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?Sep, 2012 Lead Great fun.
with Ian Bryant
Great fun.
with Ian Bryant
bigrob 20 Aug, 2012 Lead
with harri honan
with harri honan
Haydn Jones 11 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
with pep
with pep
Ian JL ??, 2012 -
Kevster 6 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
matt.jj ?Oct, 2011 AltLd
Dave Mahon ?Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1, interesting and committing traverse to left at top. Holds are in abundance, hope they don't snap off... P2 is pumpy but loads of gear and holds.
with matt.jj
Led P1, interesting and committing traverse to left at top. Holds are in abundance, hope they don't snap off... P2 is pumpy but loads of gear and holds.
with matt.jj
Julian Prieto 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1
Led P1
Monkey_Alan 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P2. Whoa! "Arm blowing" cracks indeed! After repeated tries and downclimbs to the rest ledge, finally got to the top, totally pumped.
Led P2. Whoa! "Arm blowing" cracks indeed! After repeated tries and downclimbs to the rest ledge, finally got to the top, totally pumped.
Graham Westbrook 7 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
norb ?Jun, 2011 2nd
halfwaythere 9 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Rich K 23 Jan, 2011 Lead dog Lead the first pitch ok, made a mess of the second pitch and rested on gear before struggling up the "arm-blowing cracks".
with Wayne Cheung
Lead the first pitch ok, made a mess of the second pitch and rested on gear before struggling up the "arm-blowing cracks".
with Wayne Cheung
Hidden 23 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 7 Nov, 2010 2nd rpt
with Floris
with Floris
Hidden 7 Nov, 2010 Lead rpt
feilx 7 Nov, 2010 Lead rpt
cem 26 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
tobydunford 18 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
PaulW ?Sep, 2010 Lead Superb intimidating route. Soft for the grade though and loads of gear. Low tide is best for approach to avoid a paddle
Superb intimidating route. Soft for the grade though and loads of gear. Low tide is best for approach to avoid a paddle
Hidden 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
LoopyLou 13 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S R led first pitch, i led the second. First pitch has a cute exposed move to exit the groove and pull around the arete to the belay. Exciting second pitch on good holds, fantastic positions, bit 'goey' for about 6m. One of my all time favourite HVS's.
with Roslyn
R led first pitch, i led the second. First pitch has a cute exposed move to exit the groove and pull around the arete to the belay. Exciting second pitch on good holds, fantastic positions, bit 'goey' for about 6m. One of my all time favourite HVS's.
with Roslyn
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 AltLd
givemetea 13 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Led first pitch. Second pitch seems more 'full on' despite having an easier technical grade. Fabulous climb.
Led first pitch. Second pitch seems more 'full on' despite having an easier technical grade. Fabulous climb.
Ceridwen 12 Sep, 2009 2nd rpt
Hidden 5 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Sep, 2009 2nd rpt
Ceridwen 16 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Wow, what a route!
with Andy Mosienko
Wow, what a route!
with Andy Mosienko
uncontrollable 9 Aug, 2009 AltLd β lead pitch 2 - stunning
with stewart, bob
lead pitch 2 - stunning
with stewart, bob
Bob M 9 Aug, 2009 2nd
with uncontrollable, Stewart Walker
with uncontrollable, Stewart Walker
Hidden 2 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
mark89 17 Jun, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 3 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
scott titt ??, 2009 -
mutt ??, 2009 -
with Naomi Moran
with Naomi Moran
Hidden 15 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S
mike.moss 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd
with Rollo
with Rollo
Rollo 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd pitch. Quite scary once you step round out of the corner. Sustained. Mike lead 1st pitch.
Lead 2nd pitch. Quite scary once you step round out of the corner. Sustained. Mike lead 1st pitch.
Jane Weir 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Richard Horn 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
steve taylor 13 Sep, 2008 AltLd dnf Pulled off a hold, smashed my head in, fell off, bled all over the place, 6 stitches! Lovely route though.
Pulled off a hold, smashed my head in, fell off, bled all over the place, 6 stitches! Lovely route though.
scott titt 13 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Different Steve 13 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Led P2. Great pitch..
with Simon Chandler
Led P2. Great pitch..
with Simon Chandler
maresia 13 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S Superb and not as strenuous as expected. Some cunning rests can be found.
with Rob Scheichl
Superb and not as strenuous as expected. Some cunning rests can be found.
with Rob Scheichl
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ?Sep, 2008 AltLd
clipskipper 9 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S Took the steep and juggy top pitch - plenty of holds and plenty of gear
with Ed Babington
Took the steep and juggy top pitch - plenty of holds and plenty of gear
with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 9 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 15 Sep, 2007 AltLd Dave led the first pitch (5b), I did the second, which should have been 5a. Managed to go off route near the top - probably no harder technically but loose and scary !
with Dave T
Dave led the first pitch (5b), I did the second, which should have been 5a. Managed to go off route near the top - probably no harder technically but loose and scary !
with Dave T
Owen W-G 8 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S Never 5b to step around arete (5a if that), but perhaps 5b deserved for the steep finale. Some brilliant 3D climbing on P2 would've been much harder if it wasn't for the insitu threads. You can't question any of its' 3 stars.
with Ned
Never 5b to step around arete (5a if that), but perhaps 5b deserved for the steep finale. Some brilliant 3D climbing on P2 would've been much harder if it wasn't for the insitu threads. You can't question any of its' 3 stars.
with Ned
chrisbevins ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
mutt 5 Nov, 2006 - Fantastic Route. 5b move under the roof feels exposed and insecure but is over in no time. Top pitch is the best I've done - steep corner on big holds then arm blowing cracks to the top.
with Naomi Moran
Fantastic Route. 5b move under the roof feels exposed and insecure but is over in no time. Top pitch is the best I've done - steep corner on big holds then arm blowing cracks to the top.
with Naomi Moran
dan gibson 14 Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S
with AJ
with AJ
AJ007 ?Sep, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 AltLd
brian watson ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Bob M 13 Sep, 2005 AltLd Led top pitch - simply amazing
with Pam Jolliffe
Led top pitch - simply amazing
with Pam Jolliffe
bigie bob ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
Boxy 19 Feb, 2005 2nd
with Vince
with Vince
feilx ??, 2005 -
Hidden 4 Dec, 2004 Lead
Hidden ?Jan, 2004 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2004 -
Hidden ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 5 Oct, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2003 AltLd dog
Paul_southgate68 ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Feb, 2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
WB 17 Nov, 1998 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
kylo-342 ?Oct, 1997 2nd
with Roland, Roger
with Roland, Roger
Dave Cundy ??, 1997 2nd O/S
with Phil Lee
with Phil Lee
cem ?Sep, 1996 2nd dog Fell off on second pitch, catching my belayer (Graham) unawares. He ended up with rope burns
with Neil Peck, GrahamD
Fell off on second pitch, catching my belayer (Graham) unawares. He ended up with rope burns
with Neil Peck, GrahamD
William Robertson ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead
MoWalker3 26 Sep, 1993 AltLd
with Joe
with Joe
kylo-342 ?Jan, 1992 Lead
with Matt H
with Matt H
Robmwatt ??, 1990 -
clanger ??, 1990 -
steve taylor ?Aug, 1988 AltLd
with Martin Stansbury
with Martin Stansbury
Dave Musgrove 22 Feb, 1986 -
GuyM ??, 1985 -
JimR ??, 1983 -
Nigel Coe 9 Sep, 1981 -
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 7 Dec, 1980 Lead
with John Walmsley
with John Walmsley
Falko 4 Jan, 1975 AltLd O/S 2nd ascent and first free ascent (dispensed with 1 aid peg) - Richard Crewe present to confirm.
with Howard Lancashire
2nd ascent and first free ascent (dispensed with 1 aid peg) - Richard Crewe present to confirm.
with Howard Lancashire
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 50
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set