46m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The best VS in Boulder Ruckle. Well protected, but at the very upper limit of the grade. Start on a ledge below a large sentry box.

1) 5a, 18m. Climb up until a move right can be made to the base of a crack in the right wall of the sentry box. Climb the crack and pull right to an easing at the right-hand side of the overhang above. Follow the steep crack to a ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 10m. Move right along a foot-ledge to a short vertical crack. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arete.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch has been destroy in a large rockfall. reclimbed on 11th Jan 2014 graded E1 5b now.

FA. Barry Annette, P.Kemp pre 1963

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Rockfax West Country top 50.

hfotheri 15/Jul/17 AltLd dog
with simon
Ed Hastings 08/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Got drenched at the ledge. First pitch was very wet. VS my ass.

with Joe Wolfensohn
Ellis Bird ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Wine and climb 02/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
thomas108 ??/2016 -
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 11/Jan/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Nov/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Kerm ?/Sep/13 AltLd
Huntlyfiddler 21/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/13 AltLd
bpmclimb 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A great climb which very nearly merits HVS. Pitch 2 is committing for the second.

with Clare
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MDR61 11/Aug/13 Lead

Ended up leading all three pitches. This is a total sandbag at VS - the 2-3 moves out of the sentry box are hard, and the moves on the traverse although easy are committing and not easy to protect (from a fall onto the ledge) and then just when you think it's all over in steps P3 !!

with Ben
steveprice.exmouth 01/Aug/13 2nd
with David Coley
duzinga 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Omer
Hidden 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
LukeyG 30/Jun/13 AltLd


crossdressingrodney 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 09/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

Hidden 07/Jun/13 Lead
Luxulyan 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dan Browne
Dan Browne 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Richard Stevenson
Lizlet13 01/Jun/13 AltLd
with PD
Nexonen 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Floris
Julian Prieto 18/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Monkey_Alan 18/May/13 AltLd rpt

Led P1,P3. Committing moves at the start of P1.

haydng 08/May/13 Lead rpt

Enjoyable epic for the 2nd. Good route and interesting for the grade. Not one for the novice VS leader!

with Dave R
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd dog
jon_gill1 06/May/13 AltLd O/S

fantastic route and definitely not a soft touch!interest all the way through!in my top ten routes i would say!

with Arul, ross garfoot
tedburt 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3 2nd P2

with Aaron Burdett
Georgia H ?/May/13 2nd
adam 24 20/Apr/13 2nd
Peter Lovell 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
budchawla 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Dogged the first pitch after having completely numb fingers from a very cold start & trying to extract cams in that condition. P1 felt steep & cruxy. P2 is a fun traverse, 1 cam before you start the traverse and 1 more halfway. P3 is excellent & worth 3 stars! Need to keep hands warm in cold weather and need to not leave six months between trad climbing trips!

leglesslizard ?/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
budchawla ?/Feb/13 2nd
Rockwarrior ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
Leo49 ??/2013 -
Slarti B 11/Nov/12 AltLd

I led little P2 traverse, Chris did real pitches P1& P2. Very strenuous & awkward

with Chris Bull
crispycodd 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

I got pitch 2, Stephen P1 and P3.

louby 22/Sep/12 AltLd

I led P1 after a bit of faffing, chris did P2 and P3. Thought the hard stuff was over after P1 but unfortunately rock not so good afterwards. P3 could do with some new pegs.

chris_B 22/Sep/12 AltLd
1202alarm 21/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Si Ball
Ewan Russell 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Good route with Average rock. Thought pitches 2 and 3 were slightly serious feel sorry for the novice vs leader on this.

with Mike(Dad)
Robin Woodward ?/Sep/12 Lead
Kevster 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S

I thought this was quite a serious route. 2nd pitch - traverse is not well protected and there is a ledge to bounce off all the way across. 3rd pitch - rusty old peg protects unless you have LARGE cam with another ledge to bounce off should you fail. Not for a timid leader, even though the climbing is quite straight forwards

tonevert 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
mattyork2 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

A very intimidating and stiff introduction to the delights of the Boulder Ruckle. Johnny led pitches 1 and 3. 1 was tough and 2 was really scary and hard to protect.

with Johnny Richard
Anthony Dixon 05/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead
mc fifi 06/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
paultaylor 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
will moy 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with paul taylor
funsized ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Fi
carl_123 31/May/12 Lead O/S

Amazing climb. on the first pitch make sure you belay to the right of the ledge (facing in)so you can watch the leader on the traverse. have either massive cams for the last pitch, or very small wires for near the rusty peg.

ali macphee 31/May/12 AltLd
Kris suriyo 24/May/12 Lead O/S
Piers Harley 19/May/12 AltLd

Very tough! worthy of HVS 5a?

with Jeremy Windsor
Doug Wilkie 11/May/12 2nd dog

first multipitch. Good weather. One fall on easy top section!

Hidden 11/May/12 Lead β
musgravet 11/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Rowan Mitchell 15/Apr/12 AltLd dog

Dogged the first pitch. Climbed the third clean

Alan100 15/Apr/12 AltLd

Bit of a sandbag at VS but then i guess pumpy VS isn't unusual in swanage. Good climbing on the 1st and 3rd pitches, slightly let down by the dusty ledge crawl of the 2nd. Definitely more than I expected..

LJC 13/Apr/12 -


ben.richards 13/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Two great pitches separated by a less-than-worth it pitch of 4b. Unfortunately if your swinging leads then one of you gets all the good bits and the the other gets the scraps...I was this person! Definitely gonna go back and lead P1 & P3 as they were really fun.

tomshanti 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

luke led p1,me p2,3 Stiff for VS!little out of practice on the steep stuff but p1 tough.traverse straight foreward but still delicate.the final corners awkward but secure-very enjoyable...p1 warrants HVS?the gear is there if youve the strength to hang about and place it,and the holds are there too,if you can find them!def top end VS at least.

LukeyG 31/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
John Tanner 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Oli Brend
owb106 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
stefano_nunes 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Simon backed off 2nd pitch, so reused his placements...sketchy nonetheless!

halfwaythere 07/Jan/12 AltLd dog

Led pitch 2

with brad
Ian JL ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Chris Sansum 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Chris p1, Sian p2, Chris p3

sian88 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead
matt.jj ?/Oct/11 AltLd
Dave Mahon ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Each pitch is very stiff for the grade - definitely HVS. Be careful on pitch 2!

martin one 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 03/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 -
halfwaythere 29/Aug/11 AltLd dog

led 1st and third pitch.

with alex
Hidden 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
rd20 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

RD P1 - Patrick's birthday

with Patrick
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
wi11 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S


with Frank C
Ceridwen 26/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
with Matt Hot rock
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd
mikehenesy 23/Jun/11 AltLd

4 pitches this time, the first being the desperate running jumping traverse around to the start courtesy of the big crashing sea - all three survived, phew. Andy's bonzer lead on pitch one (there were two in place stuck cams which me and Ian unaware got pretty shagged trying to extract). I lead pitch 2 which was just as hard as last time although done in alternative grovelling (style?) in the break. Andy took a flyer when a hold broke but heroicaly, a little skinned and bloody, led the next cheeky but lovely (a bit like myself) pitch. Finished in traditional fashion sans daylight.

with Andy Forsyth, Ian Holloway
norb ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S

a lasting memory and one the happyist moments in climbing when we made it out. leading..........i'll think about it

Hidden 21/May/11 Lead rpt
Darrell Read 17/Apr/11 AltLd
31770 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3 - P3 feels bold

dickie01 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Joe Heasman
Sophie Nunn 27/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Alex
AlexD 27/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

mind the dead crow jammed behind a flake near the top!! my hand touched its head - gah!

with Sophie
jtree03 21/Mar/11 AltLd
with dazza
The Ivanator 19/Mar/11 AltLd

An experience! Had to leave jammed cam on exit from sentry box ...could not shift it, but got good and knackered trying. Then led the traverse in awkward style finishing with a grovelling crawl along the break, top pitch went OK! Probably does just merit HVS, but wasn't the E grade sandbag I'd been imagining from its reputation.

with Stewart
Stewart Armstrong 19/Mar/11 -
with Ivan Bicknell
Mark Warnett ??/2011 Lead O/S
haydng 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

And I thought Heidelberg Creature was steep...

with John
brian watson 14/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with gary mason
Martin Davies 09/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st, Tom lead 2nd and 3rd. Nice route, if a little wandering. Would get 3 stars but for the contrived traverse pitch.

with Tom Smart
Geoffers 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 24/May/10 2nd
Hidden 24/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

uncontrollable 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 3. Great climb, keeps throwing surprises at you one after the other...3rd pitch is just fun

with Alan B
Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/10 AltLd

Hard 1st pitch! Felt more like HVS to me!

mattkemp70 ?/Mar/10 AltLd
with Westy
Hidden 13/Feb/10 AltLd rpt
Dhonny_Jaws 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Jane Weir ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead dog
colkurtz 07/Sep/09 AltLd
with Robb
Hidden 07/Sep/09 AltLd
ChrisBrooke 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
mikehenesy 17/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good stuff, loads of pro all the way on 1st and 3rd pitch. 2nd pitch surprisingly demanding if your forearms are trollied getting up the first. 3rd pitch done in the eerie glow of LED's. Note:-never leave your headtorch behind if you're climbing with Henesy!

with Ben Sidsaph
Ben Sidsaph 17/Aug/09 2nd dog

what an epic, got totally shagged out on the first pich taking out gear so had to aid climb the hard bit, then was too pumped to lead the second pitch only just managed it, and did the last pitch in the pitch black with a head torch and really enjoyed the last pitch would climb the last pitch again but not the first too, well harder than vs

with Mike Hennesey
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
andy jennings 18/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Big A
mark89 17/Jun/09 AltLd
sgl 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jez
jezb1 04/Jun/09 2nd
JPGR ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Paul
LozM 09/May/09 2nd

Top pitch more like 4c!

with Pete M
petegruf 09/May/09 Lead O/S

Third pitch more like 4c

with LozM
Ceridwen 25/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Ceridwen ?/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Hidden 31/Mar/09 AltLd rpt
duncan 31/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Damp. A bit of a struggle.

davenev 07/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

led p2 only, VS my arse!!!!!

with luke
Mr Tickle 07/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Definitly a hard HVS

with davenev
cmsg 21/Feb/09 Lead dog

Wrecked on pitch 1, and rested. Luke not happy on P2, so I led all three in the end. Last was great.

with Luke Gannarelli
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Nov/08 AltLd
djking1983 22/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Tom Robinson 22/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 18/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
MontyH 22/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

great route on all three pitches. I lead 1st and 3rd, felt wasted on the crux of pitch one. felt harder than VS to me.

with Brian
theone 04/Aug/08 2nd O/S

1st ever trad route 2nd lead.

with rik dawes
cherad 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Hidden ??/2008 -
tobydunford 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S

One of the hardest Vs at swanage surely!

with Harry Martin
Different Steve 23/Sep/07 AltLd rpt

Led P2, P3

with Guy Reid
Richard Horn 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
riddle 05/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

scary biscuits! great fun though.

with Lee
Ed Babs 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S

+ 01 Mar 12 with Tom (p1)

with Kate
jchenoweth 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

I lead second and third pitches as a single pitch. Should be rated HVS not VS.

with Fat Alan
Matt Shepherd 10/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Bob M 30/Aug/06 AltLd

Led first pitch with the usual struggle

with Pam Jolliffe
winter_burn 10/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
Hidden 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
brian watson ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Jeff Yaldren
chrisbevins ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
Ramon Marin 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
Hidden 01/May/05 Lead
steve taylor 01/May/05 2nd β

Only did top pitch - nice.

Boxy 19/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Vince
bigie bob ??/2005 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
mike.moss ??/2005 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 14/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Marq 19/Sep/04 AltLd O/S


with Daniel Dennehy
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/04 Lead

Backed off

with Pippa Lansdown
Haglington ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Sandy Ogilvie
Hidden 25/Apr/04 2nd
benjino ?/Jan/04 -
Hidden ?/Nov/03 2nd
five ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
cem 27/Sep/03 AltLd O/S

Led p 1 & 3

James B 31/Aug/03 Lead
with Nigel
furry 27/Aug/02 2nd
with Phil B
Bob M 26/Aug/02 AltLd
with Julian Taylor
spidermonkey ??/2002 -

Finally - a route we could actually find easily in boulder ruckle! Fantastic climb, amazing stance, I was actually sat on a large fossil!

Different Steve ??/2002 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P2

with Mervyn Lamacraft
andyfeds ??/2002 Lead dog

First two pitches tough - last one nice

with Andy C
Hidden ??/2001 -
MoWalker3 01/Jun/00 -
with Dave
aged_ape ?/Jun/00 -
climbtim 17/Mar/00 AltLd
with ghost
Hidden ?/Jan/00 AltLd O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Bob M 09/Oct/99 AltLd

Jill led crux

with Jill Stevens
WB 17/Nov/98 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Bob M 18/Oct/98 AltLd
with Richard Broadhead
chris sm 06/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
kp64zl ?/Oct/95 Lead
with Justin S, Simon V
colin milton 27/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Dringo ??/1995 -
Okecroak 09/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
with M Mercy
sdht ??/1992 -
with Dave Ward
mark-abz 13/Jan/90 Lead
with Simon K
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
eroica64 29/Jan/89 AltLd

Gripping pitch 1.

with Denis Crampton
steve taylor ?/Jul/88 AltLd
with Martin Stansbury
Dave Musgrove 05/Mar/88 AltLd
with David
DDDD ??/1986 AltLd
with Chris Brown
Bullybones ?/Oct/85 AltLd
ill_bill ??/1985 AltLd

I led pitch 1.

with Steve Newman
Hidden ??/1985 -
GuyM ??/1985 -
Nigel Coe 02/May/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 14/Sep/80 AltLd
with Dave Kyle
Chris Terrey ?/Sep/80 2nd
with Mike Quantrell, Mike Morrison
Nigel Coe 02/Sep/79 AltLd
with Frank Farrell
Ken Taylor 01/Nov/78 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Martin Bennett 31/Aug/71 -
with Gordon de Lacy
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 103
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 97
Votes cast 83
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set