Rockfax Description
A truly fantastic pitch. Sustained, well protected and with a pressing crux move high on the wall. Start below the very thin line of cracks in a slight depression on the upper wall and just right of the rope sling at the midway break on Mother Africa.Move up the wall on good holds to a narrow ledge. Harder climbing past white blotches gains the horizontal break above. Sustained climbing through the bulge and up the line of thin cracks leads past a jug, but without much respite, to another bulge. A hard couple of moves up and right past a peg gain a thread and the final short wall. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 12.6.83 12/Jun/1983

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Stephen Horne - Rockfax 22/Aug Lead O/S


with Ed Bulman
ricci.andrea86 26/Jun Lead dog
ricci.andrea86 ?/Sep/16 TR O/S

top-roped with a grigri. Felt less sustained then Mother Africa. Plenty of good rests. Looking forward to go for the lead. Good new peg before the last committing move.

Misha 13/Aug/16 Lead dog

Denied the onsight by a snapped foothold! Swanage onsight? Otherwise found this ok, the crux was probably just before the snapped foothold about a third of the way up, the rest was a series of hardish moves/sequences (probably no harder than tough 5c apart from the crux) followed by decent rests. Steep! My kind of route - staminafest. Lots of wires needed.

with Eszter
Hidden 03/Aug/16 Lead dog
JendeHoxar 03/Aug/16 2nd dog

Had to rest twice

with Ed
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S

First E5 so happy! Good gear, and was able to get just enough back on the jugs between the hard climbing to get up it.

with Andy O'Conner
thomas108 ??/2016 -
Ed Babs 01/Oct/15 Lead RP

Soooo close to o/s with AlexD 26 Sep 2015. Misread move to hidden jug. Fine today. An excellent climb with holds and gear all over it and no really hard moves (none as hard as the crux of Mother Africa), just very sustained.

AlexD 26/Sep/15 2nd
with Ed
James Oakes 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S

quality guppy rockover on the crux. just fit enough for it to be enjoyable all the way

with noaks
brices 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Such a perfect route, good gear lots of rests, with some fitness it feels steady away.

Caspian Johnson 04/Jul/15 2nd β
with brices
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Wendy 25/May/15 2nd O/S
colesy 25/May/15 Lead O/S

With Wend

Hidden 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
JM 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
piken ?/Jul/14 -
Mike_Hayes 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Sustained - no real hard moves - and stonking gear if you can hang on to place it.

ben.meakin 05/May/14 2nd
Fran S8 03/May/14 2nd
JulesV ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with Will Boxen
cymjt ??/2014 -
mike lawrence? 29/Aug/13 2nd

pulled on a wire just below break, above was desperate but ok

with FatRob
Adam Booth 15/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 01/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Psyched! Amazing route. Fell off on onsight a month ago, got back on it today and bosh! Pretty pumped from the start but you can just about keep it together. Replaced the old tat on the peg as I abseiled past, so ground up and abseil inspection.

Dan Lane 01/Aug/13 2nd dog

great climbing but a little too steep for me, though none of the individual moves felt too hard.

malx ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 22/Jun/13 Lead dog

An awesome route, so steep but so many jugs! Quite greasy conditions and still slightly pumped from earlier. Fell just below crux. Will be back!

jacobjlloyd 22/Jun/13 2nd dog

Combination of grease and unfitness made this seem desperate. Newfound respect for my old fitter self.

Hidden 16/May/13 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ??/2013 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 12/Aug/12 Lead dnf

fell off, decked, dislocated my right wrist.

with andrew caddie
BeccaSnowden 01/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Mike
jacobjlloyd 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

First E5! Sooo pumped. Slapped my way up it, placed twenty runners somehow. Not hard, some good jug shake-outs that I should have been able to recover on, but i'm too unfit. I was off from the crux, but fell sideways and hung the jug as I went! Thanks to Naomi and Jordan for chalking it up perfectly.

with Antoine, Ross
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

First E5 @ Swanage. Managed to keep to pump at bay - felt a lot easier than Lean Machine.

pezzerrr 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/12 2nd
Justin T 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Cherry
tuftynick 28/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/11 2nd
Mike Goldthorp 11/Aug/10 Lead β

on alex's gear. Brilliant climbing, low in the grade e5 - some quite hard moves but enough good holds to recover in between them

Alex Mason 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Swapped leads last minute with mikey. Good moves between the jugs. Not sure about the mesmeric crux but i used a high heel so maybe i teched past it.

with Mikey G
mgeek 08/Jul/10 Lead β
with ally swinton, Tony Stone
Ally Baba 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Not sure if it is the best single pitch at Swanage, thought Lean Machine was better.

with Tony Stone, Mcgeek
dan gibson 13/Apr/10 Lead RP

fell off the start a couple of years before

with jacquie robinson
ukb & bmc shark 28/Aug/09 Lead

Robbed of the onsight when a jug came off in my hand at 30feet. Pulled ropes and flashed it. Mega line - not as thin as it looks from below.

Toby Dunn 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Ricky Rocks 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant long pumpy route, just keeps going.

feilx 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Crazy Tom
JPGR 08/May/08 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian Jones ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S

Thin cru and very strenuous.

with Andy Reeve
switch ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Ellis
Hidden ??/2001 Lead β
Roget 30/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
sadams 22/Jun/98 2nd
with Andy Long
The Jazz Butcher ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Dave Pickford
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S

A hard crux and pumpy.

with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 15/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 29/Aug/88 2nd dog

I used 3 pts aid.

with Ray Mardon
frank ramsay ??/1987 Lead
22 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set