Rockfax Description
Good climbing and very exposed. Start at a cave just west of a huge undercut buttress.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the corner above the cave. At the faultline, move right to belay on a thread around an ammonite.
2) 4c, 15m. Head up leftwards to a crack in the roof and pull around in a sensational position to continuation cracks. These lead to a ledge and the exit corner as for Nassty Spider. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Crew, P.A.Bell 29/Aug/1964.
Ticklists
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Orange Spot Swanage , UK Classic Corners , Dorset weekender , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , The V.S.+ Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pollie88 | 20 Mar |
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βeta: Brilliant climb! Old school chimneying followed by exposed but easy moves. Really enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant climb! Old school chimneying followed by exposed but easy moves. Really enjoyable. |
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| linusdietz | 1 Mar |
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βeta: Found it well-protectable, roof is not too strenuous, even if not as juggy as expected. Top-out was okay. | ||
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βeta: Found it well-protectable, roof is not too strenuous, even if not as juggy as expected. Top-out was okay. |
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| buffclimbymatthew | 2 Nov, 2024 |
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βeta: I am a force of nature, for I have dislodged the block. The overhang is no more I'm afraid | βeta? | |
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βeta: I am a force of nature, for I have dislodged the block. The overhang is no more I'm afraid |
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| Will789 | 17 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Don’t be dissuaded by reports of loose rock, the blocks in question are too massive to be forced out by the weight of a person. Be careful of course but realistically the only thing capable of budging them is the forces of nature. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Don’t be dissuaded by reports of loose rock, the blocks in question are too massive to be forced out by the weight of a person. Be careful of course but realistically the only thing capable of budging them is the forces of nature. |
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| kevin stephens | 6 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Good as a single pitch with careful rope work | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good as a single pitch with careful rope work |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Lightning Wall Direct
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)