Rockfax Description
An incredibly steep and pumpy climb that wends its withering way up a series of well-protected cracks in the centre of the wall. Start on top of a massive boulder at the base of the abseil. From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds until a move up left gains a small right leaning overhang. Move out right up the wall via a thin crack and then up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A better description would be: From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds to a jug in black rock. Step right and then up until a move up and left gains a jug at the base of a slightly overhung niche. Climb into the niche and then step right to follow a right trending crack/flake into the righthand niche and then up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish.
Note: the line drawn on the photo in the 2015 (or is it 2014?) CC Swanage guide is, in my view, wrong (following it makes the route much harder!). The description in the guide is more accurate, however at the overhung niche you step right rather than climb the crack above you (as suggested by the guidebook). Oh, and the pre-placed rope is a must, unless you also take an ice-axe!

FA. Martin Crocker 11.6.83 11/Jun/1983

Ticklists: Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Hidden 23/Sep Lead O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 23/Aug Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
ricci.andrea86 26/Jun Lead dog

Fell twice on first attempt. placing the gear make quite a big difference. The first part of the route is pumpy but fairly steady. I might have gone left too soon but i definitely climbed the rightward trending crack to finish.

Misha 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Wow! Supersteep (more so than Wall of the Worlds the previous day) and superpumpy (but I can deal with staminafests). Series of hard moves/sequences to decent or at least half decent rests. Not sure there's any proper 6a on this but not much below 5c either. Took the diagonal flakeline out right at the top, which was fine. The direct finish looked like E5+!

with Eszter
Tom Livingstone 05/May/16 Lead O/S
thomas108 ??/2016 -
Wendy 25/May/15 2nd O/S
colesy 25/May/15 Lead O/S

With Wendy

ian bryant ??/2015 -
Ellis Bird ?/Aug/14 Lead G/U
piken ?/Jul/14 -
3 Names 02/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Ed Bulman
JulesV ?/May/14 Lead dog

Does this go left (up the thin crack) or right (up the groove) at the top? The dorset rockfax appears to show left but sw rockfax shows right. Confused. I tried to go left after onsighting to there and took a few falls trying that way, then went right and it was a breeze.

with Will Boxen
Jake Young 02/Aug/12 2nd dog

One to aspire for, obtained rescue points later in the day.

with Mike
jacobjlloyd 04/Jun/12 2nd dog

Aaaaagh should have had it! Felt much easier than last time, in condition. Pumped out and fell off the last move! Still boxed after Wall of the Worlds, and the first gear was stuck.. will come back and lead it. So much fun it is really worth repeating

with Ross
quiffhanger 04/Jun/12 Lead RP

So pleased. Good conditions, beta & chalked holds really helped but still got mega pumped. Left some OK gear 2/3rds of the way up and just slapped my way to the top. Physically the hardest E5 I've done.

with Jake
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 11/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/May/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 31/Mar/12 2nd dog

Oh. My. Goodness. Not one to get on without fitness. I had no idea how steep this was going to be until halfway down the abseil. It is a fantastic wall, really inspiring, shockingly steep, and doesn't let up. Exhaustingly pumpy climbing on good holds, and just when you get desperate for a shakeout it gets hard! F7b. Swanage trad meets spanish limestone. Probably the best route I've been on, ever. Felt a long way off, but I will be back.

with Ross
quiffhanger 31/Mar/12 Lead dog

Nowhere near fit enough. Fell after going wrong way 1/2way up, pulled ropes to retry but didn't get much further on 2nd attempt - the tops hard!

with Jake
dan gibson 13/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with rob gibson
Hidden 13/Sep/10 2nd dog
Alex Mason 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Sweet end of the day tick after knocking the rest out. Best route of the day and worthy of 3* despite pulling up the abb rope to gain terra firma! Superb.

with Mikey G
mgeek 09/Jul/10 Lead β
with ally swinton, Tony Stone
Ally Baba 09/Jul/10 Lead β

thought it was a mega pitch. Super steep!!

with Tony Stone, Mcgeek
Toby Dunn ?/Jul/10 -
with Andy Reeve
edinbed 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

With Eric. First weekend away of the year.

Toby Dunn 15/Aug/09 2nd
with Andy Reeve
feilx 20/Jun/09 Lead dog
with Angus
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead dog
The Jazz Butcher 30/May/09 2nd
with Bern
Hidden 14/Jul/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2002 -
ellis ?/Jun/01 2nd dog
Marti999 ??/2001 2nd
with Dave pickford
switch ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1991 Lead O/S
with keefe
keefe ??/1991 2nd
Nigel Coe ??/1991 2nd dog

I had 5 rests.

with Tim Dunsby
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High E6
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High E5
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High 6b
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High 5c
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Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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