35m.

Rockfax Description
An incredibly steep and pumpy climb that wends its withering way up a series of well-protected cracks in the centre of the wall. Start on top of a massive boulder at the base of the abseil. From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds until a move up left gains a small right leaning overhang. Move out right up the wall via a thin crack and then up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A better description would be: From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds to a jug in black rock. Step right and then up until a move up and left gains a jug at the base of a slightly overhung niche. Climb into the niche and then step right to follow a right trending crack/flake into the righthand niche and then up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish.
Note: the line drawn on the photo in the 2015 (or is it 2014?) CC Swanage guide is, in my view, wrong (following it makes the route much harder!). The description in the guide is more accurate, however at the overhung niche you step right rather than climb the crack above you (as suggested by the guidebook). Oh, and the pre-placed rope is a must, unless you also take an ice-axe!

FA. Martin Crocker 11/Jun/1983

Ticklists

Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E5 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 14 Jun Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 27 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S The biggest fight of my life, but so psyched to onsight this. I only got it done out of frustration from my buggered elbows: they’ve ruined my summer of trad so I was as determined as ever to get up this come what may before changing the clocks back on sunday (i.e. Winter!). I was about off many times, but hanged in there somehow. Way to unfit for this sort of thing right now, but if I wasn’t injured this would be right up my street: mega steep, pumpy, big holds and good gear. I think if i wasn’t a cripple I would find this pretty soft to be honest. Not really any 6a moves and lots of jugs to recover next to good gear. It’s amazing route, way better than Wall of worlds IMO. The lines is pretty obvious once on the route, but the drawn line in the latest Rockfax is wrong at the top. Basically climb up to the first niche out right (obvious), tjen climb to the other niche on the left (obvious too), but then do a hard right (rather than following Rockfax line) anfd follow a diagonal flake (as Misha says below) on good holds. The only thing I would add is that I wished I had a couple of really big wires or even a hex, there are two easy to place bomber placements.
with viki harvey
The biggest fight of my life, but so psyched to onsight this. I only got it done out of frustration from my buggered elbows: they’ve ruined my summer of trad so I was as determined as ever to get up this come what may before changing the clocks back on sunday (i.e. Winter!). I was about off many times, but hanged in there somehow. Way to unfit for this sort of thing right now, but if I wasn’t injured this would be right up my street: mega steep, pumpy, big holds and good gear. I think if i wasn’t a cripple I would find this pretty soft to be honest. Not really any 6a moves and lots of jugs to recover next to good gear. It’s amazing route, way better than Wall of worlds IMO. The lines is pretty obvious once on the route, but the drawn line in the latest Rockfax is wrong at the top. Basically climb up to the first niche out right (obvious), tjen climb to the other niche on the left (obvious too), but then do a hard right (rather than following Rockfax line) anfd follow a diagonal flake (as Misha says below) on good holds. The only thing I would add is that I wished I had a couple of really big wires or even a hex, there are two easy to place bomber placements.
with viki harvey
Mike_Hayes 15 Sep, 2018 2nd nearly dark....
with John Nightingale
nearly dark....
with John Nightingale
Hidden 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
rhoslynfrugtniet 1 Sep, 2018 Lead β
with Ali Ken
with Ali Ken
nickmoulden 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
Flavio 24 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 24 Jul, 2018 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Sophie Nunn 13 May, 2018 Lead dog So close! Went the wrong way at the top and tried to follow the crack and came off. Should have read the description above!
So close! Went the wrong way at the top and tried to follow the crack and came off. Should have read the description above!
slowmotion 12 May, 2018 2nd β Way to go Felix!
with feilx
Way to go Felix!
with feilx
feilx 12 May, 2018 Lead RP
with Fiona
with Fiona
Hidden 23 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 23 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
ricci.andrea86 26 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Fell twice on first attempt. placing the gear make quite a big difference. The first part of the route is pumpy but fairly steady. I might have gone left too soon but i definitely climbed the rightward trending crack to finish.
Fell twice on first attempt. placing the gear make quite a big difference. The first part of the route is pumpy but fairly steady. I might have gone left too soon but i definitely climbed the rightward trending crack to finish.
Misha 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Wow! Supersteep (more so than Wall of the Worlds the previous day) and superpumpy (but I can deal with staminafests). Series of hard moves/sequences to decent or at least half decent rests. Not sure there's any proper 6a on this but not much below 5c either. Took the diagonal flakeline out right at the top, which was fine. The direct finish looked like E5+!
with eszter
Wow! Supersteep (more so than Wall of the Worlds the previous day) and superpumpy (but I can deal with staminafests). Series of hard moves/sequences to decent or at least half decent rests. Not sure there's any proper 6a on this but not much below 5c either. Took the diagonal flakeline out right at the top, which was fine. The direct finish looked like E5+!
with eszter
Tom Livingstone 5 May, 2016 Lead O/S
thomas108 ??, 2016 -
Wendy 25 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with colesy
with colesy
colesy 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S With Wendy
With Wendy
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
Ellis Bird ?Aug, 2014 Lead G/U
piken ?Jul, 2014 -
3 Names 2 Jun, 2014 2nd dog
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
JulesV ?May, 2014 Lead dog Does this go left (up the thin crack) or right (up the groove) at the top? The dorset rockfax appears to show left but sw rockfax shows right. Confused. I tried to go left after onsighting to there and took a few falls trying that way, then went right and it was a breeze.
with Will Boxen
Does this go left (up the thin crack) or right (up the groove) at the top? The dorset rockfax appears to show left but sw rockfax shows right. Confused. I tried to go left after onsighting to there and took a few falls trying that way, then went right and it was a breeze.
with Will Boxen
Jake Young 2 Aug, 2012 2nd dog One to aspire for, obtained rescue points later in the day.
with mwatson
One to aspire for, obtained rescue points later in the day.
with mwatson
jacobjlloyd 4 Jun, 2012 2nd dog Aaaaagh should have had it! Felt much easier than last time, in condition. Pumped out and fell off the last move! Still boxed after Wall of the Worlds, and the first gear was stuck.. will come back and lead it. So much fun it is really worth repeating
Aaaaagh should have had it! Felt much easier than last time, in condition. Pumped out and fell off the last move! Still boxed after Wall of the Worlds, and the first gear was stuck.. will come back and lead it. So much fun it is really worth repeating
quiffhanger 4 Jun, 2012 Lead RP So pleased. Good conditions, beta & chalked holds really helped but still got mega pumped. Left some OK gear 2/3rds of the way up and just slapped my way to the top. Physically the hardest E5 I've done.
So pleased. Good conditions, beta & chalked holds really helped but still got mega pumped. Left some OK gear 2/3rds of the way up and just slapped my way to the top. Physically the hardest E5 I've done.
mwatson ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 11 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 11 May, 2012 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 31 Mar, 2012 2nd dog Oh. My. Goodness. Not one to get on without fitness. I had no idea how steep this was going to be until halfway down the abseil. It is a fantastic wall, really inspiring, shockingly steep, and doesn't let up. Exhaustingly pumpy climbing on good holds, and just when you get desperate for a shakeout it gets hard! F7b. Swanage trad meets spanish limestone. Probably the best route I've been on, ever. Felt a long way off, but I will be back.
Oh. My. Goodness. Not one to get on without fitness. I had no idea how steep this was going to be until halfway down the abseil. It is a fantastic wall, really inspiring, shockingly steep, and doesn't let up. Exhaustingly pumpy climbing on good holds, and just when you get desperate for a shakeout it gets hard! F7b. Swanage trad meets spanish limestone. Probably the best route I've been on, ever. Felt a long way off, but I will be back.
quiffhanger 31 Mar, 2012 Lead dog Nowhere near fit enough. Fell after going wrong way 1/2way up, pulled ropes to retry but didn't get much further on 2nd attempt - the tops hard!
Nowhere near fit enough. Fell after going wrong way 1/2way up, pulled ropes to retry but didn't get much further on 2nd attempt - the tops hard!
dan gibson 13 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with rob gibson
with rob gibson
Hidden 13 Sep, 2010 2nd dog
Alex Mason 11 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Sweet end of the day tick after knocking the rest out. Best route of the day and worthy of 3* despite pulling up the abb rope to gain terra firma! Superb.
Sweet end of the day tick after knocking the rest out. Best route of the day and worthy of 3* despite pulling up the abb rope to gain terra firma! Superb.
mgeek 9 Jul, 2010 Lead β
with ally swinton, Tony Stone
with ally swinton, Tony Stone
Ally Baba 9 Jul, 2010 Lead β thought it was a mega pitch. Super steep!!
with Tony Stone, Mcgeek
thought it was a mega pitch. Super steep!!
with Tony Stone, Mcgeek
Toby Dunn ?Jul, 2010 -
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Hidden 24 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 15 Aug, 2009 2nd
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
feilx 20 Jun, 2009 Lead dog
with Angus
with Angus
Hidden 30 May, 2009 Lead dog
Hidden 30 May, 2009 2nd
Hidden 14 Jul, 2008 Lead rpt
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2002 -
ellis ?Jun, 2001 2nd dog
Si Witcher ?Jun, 2001 Lead
with ellis
with ellis
Marti999 ??, 2001 2nd
with Dave pickford
with Dave pickford
Si Witcher ??, 1999 Lead O/S
DDDD ??, 1993 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1991 Lead O/S
with keefe
with keefe
keefe ??, 1991 2nd
Nigel Coe ??, 1991 2nd dog I had 5 rests.
with Tim Dunsby
I had 5 rests.
with Tim Dunsby
JimR ??, 1983 -
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